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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Well let's do the math.

    The minimum out of warranty repair on an Audi would be say one hour labor + parts, with average parts at $300. So one instance of one repair would cost you $400.

    If you have only one repair a year for four years that's $1,600. You should probably count on that happening. So you have a theoretical differential of $700 "extra" spent on the extended warranty.

    question is, will your A4 behave in that manner?

    These extended warranties are not really warranties but insurance policies. You are betting your car breaks and the insurance company is beating that it doesn't; however, the premium they are charging you, and the exclusions they are throwing in, gives you an idea of how risky THEY think your car is.

    MODERATOR

  • b5v30b5v30 Posts: 2
    So far I found out that the above mentioned relay is inside the ECU weather resistant protective housing. If looking from the front of the car it should be on the left from the ECU metal casing..
  • I got an offer for a 75K 5 Year warranty for $1463, I would shop around for a better price before signing it, however i think its a good idea, especially for models 2005 and under.
  • rwolffrwolff Posts: 19
    I just purchased a 2000 A4 w/ 30K miles. It is out of warranty and I am searching for a good and ethical mechanic who works on German autos in the northern NJ area (Bergen county). If there's anyone who can recommend one I would appreciate it. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    a gentle heads-up....it's not enough to just work on "german cars". An Audi is not a Porsche is not a BMW is not a Benz. You really want someone who is comfortable with Audis specifically I think.

    MODERATOR

  • rwolffrwolff Posts: 19
    yes I do want someone who is very familiar and comfortable with Audis. Preferably in Bergen cty but within the NYC metro area is acceptable also.
  • henry3henry3 Posts: 22
    hmm, I just had engine on my '03 A4 3.0L Quattro replaced, yeah, I know, not a pleasent experience, the cost of this deal was around $14,700....in any case, I now also hear a bit of a whistle sound when accelerating, but at a bit lower speed, probably somewhere in between 25-35mph, then it disappears...Not sure yet if I should take it back to the dealer to check it out, the noise is very unobstructive, and I have very little faith in audi mechanics/dealers/cars. I used to have Honda V6 coupe that did have similar noise but only coming up at first few yards the car would start moving, and probably was just the way it was designed (it was less noticeable), in any case, after the engine was replaced I have this sound now, so it does seem to have possibly something to do on how they put everything back on...I don't know...
  • rwolffrwolff Posts: 19
    I had the engine on my 02 A4 1.8T replaced last year and about two months ago heard a hissing noise when accelerating. It sounded like a vacuum hose to me so I took it in and sure enough that's what it was. It may be that also, I would have it checked out. Is your check engine light on?
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,714
    Mr. Shiftright, comparing the following cars, and assuming both of these are __out__ of their warranty:

    AUDI A4 AVANT

    CHEVY MALIBU MAXX

    1. Which will cost more to keep maintained?
    2. Is there an aprox. percentage difference?

    I like many features of the Audis, but am very concerned about their bad reliability record and the comments that they are very expensive to fix.
  • luetwuluetwu Posts: 1
    2002 A4 3.0

    Help. When i push any of the buttons on the stereo, nothing happens. I can't play radio, cd. It does not accept my cassette tape either. However, I think there is power going through the stereo since the display is lighted red. I'm afraid my battery is being drained. What to do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Really it comes down to parts prices doesn't it? I mean, just about ANY car costs the same per hour to fix at a shop. So the expense of the repair would relate to the price of parts and complexity of the car. Since ALL modern cars are complex, it seems to boil down to parts prices and in that case the Chevy would cost less in most cases I would guess.

    MODERATOR

  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,714
    Good point. Thanks!

    Also, didn't some other "inexpensive" Korean brands had reputation for very expensive parts as well?

    And to repeat a query on another thread that may not get answered there:
    What's the primary difference between HALDEX and TORSEN AWD?
  • shom1shom1 Posts: 5
    My clutch just failed at 30K miles on my 2001 A4. I drive 85% freeway. Dealer wants $2245 and Audi has refused to contribute. Out of warranty by 7 months. Any advice? I plan to sue in small claims because I think any car should have an implied warranty to not wear out at 30K.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,714
    over in the A4 threads. Brief summary; TORSEN mainly mechanical and for Longitudinal engines, HALDEX electronic controlled and for transverse engines.
  • recavrecav Posts: 1
    Do you have tint on your back window? This will cause bad reception in this car, especially AM.
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    My car is at 102k miles, recently have had some problems. First it was running a tad rough, then the gas pedal wasn't responding initially after starting. Had it in the shop and got the throttle recalibrated and it was running great. I was on my way home from the shop "about a 90 min drive" and I started to hear a knocking or tapping sound coming from the front. It doesn't do it all the time but once you get to 40mph this noise starts, and the faster you go the louder and more frequent it gets. Car still starts and runs great other than that noise when over 40mph. Anybody have any similar experiences? thanks
  • mdmartinmdmartin Posts: 1
    Did you get an answer to this. Getting the same problem on my A6 2002. From http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/used/sedans/0310_audi_a4/index1.html

    restored serenity to the A4's cabin. The second unscheduled visit occurred just after the A4's year had concluded. The standard Audi Symphony radio with integral six-disc CD changer suddenly stopped working, and the display began to glow red. A new radio was installed. Several other owners reported the same problem and had either the fuse or the entire radio replaced.

    We expect small luxury sedans such as the A4 to provide
  • wilnerwilner Posts: 30
    i bought this car a 1999 audi a4 2.8 quattro with a 50,500 mileage, after reaching 75000 miles i observed that the oil pressure warning light will light when the engine is already hot and i was slowing down or the engine is in idle. so i turned off the engine then checked the oil and it's in normal even the temperature it's in normal. i checked the dealer and i still have warranty, so the dealer replaced the oil sender sensor. this problem will show up during the hot season, if it's cold it won't. the problem is still here, until my warranty has expired. the audi tech can't solve my problem. pls help me
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Posts: 334
    You won't get any where in small claims court unless Audi doesn't show up and you win the case by a default judgement. There are no implied warranties on cars. A clutch could be burned out in less than a hour, much less 7 months after the warranty has expired.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    I don't think you'll have much luck in small claims but hey you should have your day in court. Clutches are considered "expendables" like brake pads because they are so dependent on driving habits and driving conditions. The only way I could see you getting anything is if the pressure plate literally fell apart inside the bell housing. But a worn clutch disk--that's going to be tough to prove as "defective". Good luck though.

    MODERATOR

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    Are the valves clattering when this happens? If so, there is I believe a kind of pressure valve inside the valve cover that lets loose on this engine.

    If no valve clattering, next thing you need to do is screw in an actual oil pressure numerical gauge and get a reading to find out actual oil pressure, Probably anything below about 15 lbs (one "bar") would trigger the light, and if it's that low you may have problems.

    MODERATOR

  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    Clutches are considered "expendables" like brake pads because they are so dependent on driving habits and driving conditions. The only way I could see you getting anything is if the pressure plate literally fell apart inside the bell housing. But a worn clutch disk--that's going to be tough to prove as "defective".

    Some warranties don't even cover a worn clutch because it's considered "wear and tear." Sort of like brake pads, as Mr_Shiftright said.... Even if you were under warranty, would your particular car have been covered for clutch wear anyway?
  • Hey! Sorry about your luck. Not sure what the knocking/tapping noise could be...
    Wanted to ask you about your gas pedal response issue. Currently own a 2001 Audi A4 2.8L Quattro. When I first start the vehicle and place it in drive, I go to take off, and with my foot steady on the gas, the rpm's jump up and down. Almost seems like the engine cuts out for seconds at a time, but it remains running. This lasts only for the first couple of minutes, then seems to correct itself. Is this similar to what you experienced? Also, my exhaust gases smell "rich". Very "Gasy"? Very hard to describe. But definately not normal. Anyone else experienced this problem at all? Had the engine and tranny scanned, no codes. Recently had the engine coolant temp sensor changed.
  • wilnerwilner Posts: 30
    thanks mr. shiftright, i'll try to observe the engine clattering and do the numerical gauge to measure the oil pressure. this incident only happens during summer time and because i live in the central valley of california so sometimes the thermometer comes up to 100's F. thanks again for your advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    You might also try synthetic oil and see if that helps.

    MODERATOR

  • Hi everyone,
    I just bought an Audi yesterday. Its a 1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Automatic (thats a mouthful) which i got by trading in my 2003 Hyundai which had ran very well(owed $6k on it, dealer gave me $2k for it..so $4k + $7.5k Audi + tax, etc=$12k loan), and i only had maybe 2 or 3 problems with, which were covered by the warranty. I usually wouldnt, but as it turned out, i went to a tiny used car dealership which was ran by two very young guys...and got the car As Is. I usually dont make decisions on the spot, but for some reason i did(i guess i was just so in the mindset of getting a car with more features..like cruise and ABS and i had been mildly looking into selling/trading my car for Months now).
    The Audi ran decently enough, but the inside/drivers seat felt cramped, and the ceiling is So low!! Anyway, I had read up on used car sales/what to ask and look for..and the type of Audi that i was going to see. I mainly looked up specs and recalls, not consumer's comments. I didnt see the (abundant) negative reviews as far as things falling apart - such as the timing belt - until After I got the Audi.
    I didnt drive it home because the tiny dealership said they were going to fix a couple of cosmetic things (gear shift area was all cracked/torn apart, and the cloth area that runs along the inner front windshield was falling off) and get the state inspection put on. They said i could pick it up today, but then they called me yesterday saying it wont be ready until tomorrow. Im kind of excited. But im moreso apprehensive. They couldnt fit a warranty into the loan amount - since it couldnt go over $12k. Im thinking of getting AutoServiceWarranty.com's warranty though, since they have a payment plan (they only offer the 2yr one for that specific Audi, at its mileage, and it would be $1,400 or so..but with a $299 down payment, it would be $100/month for 1 year of the 2yr coverage). Well anyway, I cant say much about the Audi as of yet, since ive only ben able to experience it during the test drive, but i should have it tomorrow...and i'll check back in with you all to give you an update on how its doing. It did seem kind of "suspect" that it was being sold for $8,000..as is at that. But i looked up other 1999 Audis with around the same mileage, and saw many for about $9k or so..so i figured $8k is nothing to be skeptical about. The dealership did give me a spoken warranty, so i asked them to give it to me in writing. In writing, they simply said the engine and transmission would be covered..verbally they had said "If anything happens within 30 days you can just bring it back to us and we'll fix it. We have a mechanic. But its an Audi...nothings going to happen in 30 days" Well, sounds like Audi doesnt mean perfection, based on what i've read on some online forums. I hate to have traded in a pretty good/solid Hyundai for a "high end" car that is going to be crap. That would be ridiculous. Well, i've typed long enough. Just thought id say hello and let you all know my situation, in case you have any suggestions for me as far as maintenance and such. The dealer didnt have a manual or maintenance book for the Audi, but im resourceful :) I just looked up 1999 Audi Maintenance and found some Bentley Publisher website or something that has the files online ready for print out. From the looks of it, there a H of a lot of maintenance to be done at 80k miles, which i dont know if it was done or not. One person told me i can go by an Audi dealership and they should be able to pull up the cars service records on the computer. So i'll do that. Really, it looks like much of the maintenance is stuff you "check" and replace only if necessary, so thats good. And much of it looks like the same stuff i had to get checked/replaced on my Hyundai..its just that it'll cost more. *sighs* Ah well. Its done now. Maybe my Audi will be good to me. It'll be about the first time i've ever had good luck. Thanks for reading. I'll try to come back to check any replies and give you guys an update.
    Take care.
    ~Shevi

    P.S. One of the guys at the dealership told me that the car has new brakes and new tires. When i later asked for the reciepts/paperwork, in case i want to use it's tire warranty or something, they said they dont get paperwork with it, cuz its all done by some mechanic they deal with, at wholesale. He said "We dont get paperwork for that wholesale stuff..there usually isnt a warranty on it" Sounded like a bunch of crap to me, but what can you do? So i didnt push the issue.

    **Anyway, as i was doing the test drive, i saw that the red, circular Brake light was on,and i inquired as to why that was. The guy told me that according to the mechanic who did the brake work, thats normal for Audi A4s when new brakes were Just put on. Is this true to your knowledge?** Thanks for your help!
  • brcorumbrcorum Posts: 1
    I hear you loud and clear. My wife is on her second Audi. Her previous Audi was an A4 1.8T. We had very few issues with this vehicle and the dealership that we bought it from had incredible service. Being pleased with the overall value of this vehicle, we are currently leasing our second Audi, but this time chose the 2006 A4 1.8T Cabriolet to enjoy the North Carolina blue skies and sun. We were driving my wife's new car home from the dealership when all of a sudden the Right Dip Light warning light came on. This means that the front right headlight is loose (not working) and the Dip Light warning light comes on a makes an annoying sound. Not a great start on a new 24-month lease!

    We are currently taking her car back to the dealership for the 4th time to resolve this issue. NC Lemon Law allows the dealership 4 attempts. During the sales process, this particular dealership (not the beforementioned) touted that they have the #6 and #7 ranked Audi technicians in the US in their dealership. These idiots can't even fix a headlight and warning light from coming on.

    This is an easy decision for us when my wife's lease ends...NO MORE AUDIS!!! Hello BMW!
  • tcasboytcasboy Posts: 214
    I hate to say it but I have to agree with the others about your chances in small claims court for a clutch issue, because the clutch is a wear item and not covered by the warranty even if you were still in it.

    I had an 89 Jeep Cherokee that lost its clutch within 2 years or so and the dealer refused to cover it. I took them to small claims court and rather than spend the time to appear they decided to settle for half the repair. That alone might be worth a try, as the small claims court costs are usually very reasonable.

    Of course, the cost for the Jeep repair back then was nowhere near the $2300 you are talking with for the Audi, so the dealer may very well decide to come in and contest your suit. If they do, I don't think you will prevail.

    A new clutch after 5 years isn't unheard of, but the cost of the repair and the parts kind of takes your breath away. That is why I dumped my 01 A4, I just didn't think I would be able to afford the maintenance required to keep it running well.

    I would still give it a try, but just wouldn't be too optimistic about the chances.

    Good luck.

    TB
  • Is there anyone else having issues with the ABS activating when the brakes are tapped at speeds under 20 miles per Hour. As in at a stop sign when you take off and someone pulls out infront of you and you step on the brakes the ABS shutters and the car still keeps going and does not stop. I seem to have this issue alot. It has activated atleast 35 -40 times in the last 3 months. Audi tells me this is normal.
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    That may be a secondary air injection pump. Mine runs when I first start the car and you can hear it for a couple minutes it sounds like a blow dryer. My mechanic said that there was a code for it but he checked it out and it was fine, also said that thing could completely shut down and the car would still run fine, I'd just have a check engine light. I never had the rpm gauge jumping like that though. Mine just wouldn't take off after starting or pulling up to a stop sign. You had to put the pedal almost to the floor before it would respond.

    Not sure about the exhaust.
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