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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi all,
    I have an Audi A4, 1.8T, 2002. As soon as my 4 year warranty expired suprise suprise, problems began.
    The check engine light came on. After a visit to Autozone, I finally found out that the following error code was causing the problem:
    "P0171: system runs too lean". Anybody has any idea what the problem might be? I was told that it might be a senson malfunction and that i might have to replace it (i was told it costs around $180). Anybody experienced similar problem? The car has been running without any noticable change in behavior with "check engine light" on for 4 weeks now. Do you think that I might cause more damage if I don't have it fixed?
    Thanks in advance for your input.
  • The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) you mention could be from a faulty or contaminated exhaust oxygen sensor. At best you're burning too much gas, at worst you've got a deeper mechanical problem.

    Check out http://www.autohausaz.com/audi-auto-parts/audi-emissions-oxygen-sensors.html for more info.
  • just bought 2002 Audi 1.8T quattro, 3rd day driving the car
    I keep hearing loud noise coming form the back side of the car , it gets louder when i get closer to where the fuel tank is, some one told me it could be the fuel pump inside the tank need to be replaced does any one experience some thing like that could it be really the fuel pump or some thing else,
  • I have a 2003 Audi A4 1.8, 54000 miles. Tonight, my clutch went on the car. Have any of you had any successful experience dealing with Audi of America regarding covering this problem with only 4,000 miles beyond warranty? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I guess the posts on this board are correct...decent car until the warranty runs out!
  • what exactly does the noise sound like? I had noise from the back too with the same car. It was a buzzing sound that was very loud, kind of like a piece of mettle rattling very fast and loud and the sound got louder when I accelerated. It turned out to be the muffler needed re-welding.
  • Audi is not reliable. You may get a warranty but the car can be in the shop every few weeks diagnosing and servicing problems. Do you really want that???? Don't buy it despite the hype about all the warranty.
  • I did do that but I have only 8 done at Audi and I need like 9 or 10. They won't pay for anthing because of that.
    They should of recalled the cars to replace the engines but they are just trying to hold us to a stringent test so they can save money. Piece of junk engine.
  • My problem is the oil light came on one cold morning and ultimately i had to stop driving it. I had it towed to the dealership and they are telling me it is an oil sludge problem. I don't have all my oil change receipts(8 out of 10) They are telling me I possible need a new engine. They want $650 to just to tell me that and that Audi won't cover it. Crooks if you ask me. They should of recalled these engines. Instead, they make you jump thru hoops on a problem they know they have.
  • I had the same happen to me as well. The problem was with the catalytic converter that reduces emmissions. It is mandatory that the car meets emmission standards set by the EPA and Audi has a mandate to fix the problem for free. My catalytic converter was replaced after the warantee was over for free at my dealership and I did not have the problem any more. So you might want to mention this to them.
  • Hi,
    I got my 2006 A4 Avant (quatro, automatic) this summer and about a month after driving it I noticed some 'kicking' behaviour whenever I come to a stop - the car simply 'kicks' right before stopping. This behaviour happened occasionally so duplicating it at the dealership service shop was a bit difficult. Consequently, the dealership did not find anything wrong with the car (total number of visits regarding this problem = 4). Finally, the dealership general manager said that this behaviour is normal and that it is the breaking system with its security features (note: service manager was not aware of this feature).
    The thing is that none of the cars that I had driven in the past behaved like that, even my friends Camry drives and stops as smooth and quiet as possible. Currently, my Audi 'kicks' everytime I come to a stop and this is extremely annoying.

    Has anybody experienced a smilar problem? Can you please advise?

    Thanks,
    Simon
  • I have the same felling in the gas peddle with my A4. To the best of my knowledge turbos work at a higher rev line than 1000rpm which is what we are talking about with the A4. The problem happens at low to no speed the turbo isn't even being used. Spoke with the dealer in Westchester said the turbo is a demand style, which means that only kicks when a heavy foot is involved. Stop and go driving will not request the turbo to kick in unless u are pounding on the gas peddle. Check with your dealer about computer adjustments the A4 is drive by wire so there might be some tweaking to be done. :)
  • If you're buying from the original owner or a used car dealer, you need an independent inspection to look for:
    whether the timing belt has been replaced; whether you need front and rear breaks; whether the car needs an alignment; leaks in the front and rear seals of the transmission; and whether the car has been in an accident (rear or front). Then set aside $3,000 for repairs (that's the real cost of your car).
  • tcasboytcasboy Posts: 214
    My main problem was that the 4 year/50K warranty and maintenance contract expired on my 2001 A4. My solution was to trade in the car before it started to eat me out of house and home.

    The Audi was a great car to drive, but there were just too many nits and noids that always needed attention (electrics, door seals, brakes groaning, cricket like noise from the engine compartment) that I was afraid to keep it long term.

    Getting the thing serviced is very expensive and I wasn't all that thrilled with the impending timing belt change and the oil sludge issues that folks have been talking about.

    My check engine light came on at 51,500 miles, and it the dealer wanted 125 just to read the code. I got it read and repaired at an independent shop. Still cost 88 to read the code, about 30 for parts and 60 for labor to fix. Turned out to be a vacumn leak and two small hoses had to be replaced.

    I will miss the A4, but not the cost of keeping it running.
  • I have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T. For the first two years or so I loved it. It looked good and drove well and, while I had intermittent problems with it, they were minor (and of course, covered by warranty). Now that I've owned it for four years and can look back at all the times I've had to take it to the dealer, plus the couple of times I've been stranded in the piece of @#!*, I'm disgusted. And frustrated that now I have to pay to for the continuous repairs becuase my warranty has expired. The latest: I had it in last week for an ignition coil problem, and I'm taking it in again tomorrow to fix a leak from the propeller shaft that the dealer found while fixing the ignition coil. Has anyone else's Audi been awful. If so, did you complain to Audi -- and did it do any good?
  • I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro with the tiptronic automatic and I love the car. I have driven about 400 miles so far and I am not impressed with the mileage, my Toyota Highlander V6 does better frankly.

    I am averaging 18mpg (70% city/30% highway miles). I use 87 octane.

    Is there something wrong? I notice that the car hits 6th gear at 45 mpg, something I find kind of strange, and it feels sluggish at this speed. Does it have an adaptive transmission like the Highlander that learns your driving style over time?

    Any suggestions as to what's going on much appreciated.
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    You should be running 91 or higher... That would explain the poor gas mileage.
  • I like your message. First you start off happy , then reality sets in and you are disgusted. For me (Audi 2002 A4 1.8T) I have had problems from day 1. I still have the extended warranty for a year and a half so I just have to pay the $50 dollar deductible to get some repairs done. And believe me I have repairs every couple of months or so. Usually the same repairs have to be repeated. Any way one thing you must know about Audi...complaining gets you a friendly voice on the other line telling you that we can continue fixing your car ..or that we will continue honouring the warranty that you have. NOTHING ELSE. SO the moral of the story is SELL YOUR AUDI CAR BEFORE THE WARRANTY EXPIRES OR ELSE OPEN UP YOUR WALLETS.
  • richb1richb1 Posts: 9
    I wrote in last weeek about my clutch giving out @54000 miles. I contacted Audi, and essentially was told that since it is a "wear item" they really couldn't extend any assistance other than a a sympathetic ear. Even the dealership couldn't be consistent in what help it could offer. The service mgr said one thing, the "director" (whatever that is) said another. Bottom line...I eat the cost of repair. Ironically, my wife's 1988 Honda Accord with 217,000 miles only recently had to have its clutch replaced. Audi has lost a once loyal customer. Do you think they care? :sick:
  • rjlaerorjlaero Posts: 659
    I would never use 87 octane in the 2.0 Turbo. It's says 91 on the fuel door. Using a poorer grade of fuel can actually hurt your gas mileage, so you're not saving anything by going with cheaper gas.
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    I would never use 87 octane in the 2.0 Turbo. It's says 91 on the fuel door. Using a poorer grade of fuel can actually hurt your gas mileage, so you're not saving anything by going with cheaper gas.

    Yeah, this topic has been beat to death in many forums, but the fact of the matter is that if you use lower octane fuel on higher compression ratio engines, you're gonna get worse performance and lower gas mileage. There is absolutely no incentive (including no financial incentive) to put in cheaper gas.
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