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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have the same steering rack problem on my 2002 A4 Quattro with 63,000. Every couple of months for the about the last 6 months, power steering fluid has been low enough to cause a bad sound while steering. Yesterday, my regular mechanic said the only thing he could find was dampness on the right side of the steering column and he thought it was probably a problem with the steering rack. He recommended I take it to the dealer. I'm guessing they'll tell me the seal at the end of the steering rack is bad. Ugh.
  • daveg518daveg518 Posts: 1
    i bumped into the back of another car yesterday and the grille has a tiny bit of damage..it is a little bit loose and one of the chrome pieces came out (i pushed it back in)..how much would it cost to get replaced? You wouldn't even know i got in an accident unless i told you...
  • mreidya4mreidya4 Posts: 1
    Well I must say an A4 can last very long i have a manual 96 A4 with over 222,000 miles and still going strong. yes she has her minor maintenance issues like a starter at 98,000 miles and control arms and ball joints at 110,000 miles. And i changed the timing belt at 150,000 mile. But other than that she is perfect so i looks like the new cars just aren't built as well as the older cars..
  • rose18rose18 Posts: 1
    can anyone advise on how much it should cost to repair the mass airflow sensor and a leak on the valve cover gasket? I have a 2003 Audi A4 (1.8)

    I am getting quoted a price of $310 for the mass airflow sensor and $320 for the valve cover gasket. Is this too much?

    Would appreciate any help!
  • I have a 2000 Audi A4. The turn signals turn on but do not flash. Where is the flasher relay located
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    If I recall rightly, it's in the hazard warning switch itself, which you have to remove from the dash. You might check on this with the dealer's parts department but I think that's right. As for getting it out, I don't have the repair manual on that job. Some interenet sites say just carefully pry it out with a thin blade; others say you have to remove the dashboard trim.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    MAF is $210 parts + 1.8 hr labor

    Valve cover gasket is $36 parts + 1.4 hr labor.

    Where I live (labor rates of $105 per hour) the MAF quote sounds like a good deal but the valve cover quote sounds way too high.

    I'm only going by what you've told me and reading from a book, so use this info accordingly.

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  • wilnerwilner Posts: 30
    i already replaced the ABS control module and everything is fine.my new problem, i replaced the tie rod ends and my mechanic told me to have a wheel alignment. i went to a dealer and the service manager asked the tech or the mechani if he can do it today and the tech advised her(service manager) to buy a subframe bolt 4 of them because it's an all wheel drive before he can perform the alignment without checking the car yet. i told them that i replaced the tie rod ends. DO I NEED A SUBFRAME BOLT JUST TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT OF THE WHEELS WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT FIRST? OR DOES THE SUBFRAME BOLTS NEED TO BE REPLACED?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    The subframe bolts should be replaced IF they have ever been loosened or removed for some other procedure. If they haven't ever been touched, I'm not seeing a reason to replace them.

    The reason for replacement is that they can stretch and you won't get the right torque on them.

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  • wilnerwilner Posts: 30
    my mechanic replaced the tie rod ends, axle on the passenger side and the brake rotors/pads. so does the subframe bolts were loosened or remove on these procedures?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    best ask him. I've never done this job before. If he doesn't remember, I think I could find out for you. The diagram to replace the axle/hub carrier doesn't show anything about subframe bolts and the procedure listed doesn't mention replacing any of the bolts loosened in the procedure.

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  • justin12justin12 Posts: 18
    The other day I turned on my A4 and heard a dropping sound in the engine. The car then idled fairly high and the engine was louder than normal during driving. The sounds went away quickly and reappeared today with the same dropping thud when the engine was switched on. Anyone else with similar issues? I'm taking it into Audi tomorrow but wanted to get any suggestions on what the cause could be.
  • balaji3balaji3 Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    I have an 1998 Audi A4. I bought this from a dealer an year ago. It has 76000 miles on it. A month back i saw a problem in which the engine rpm used to shoot really high and the car speed used to go low. when i used to stop and park the car for few mins, the car used to drive normally. this happend couple of times over a period of two months. So, i took it to the mechanic to have it checked and the mechanic told everything was fine. I drove the car and went onto to the freeway and within 5miles my car broke with a major jerk noise and the check engine, brake , abs symbol came up. I was never able to start the vehicle again. The mechanic checked the vehicle and again said everything was fine with the vehicle. Thereafter the car used to drive normally but sometimes used to stop with abs, brake symbol coming up. I took the car to the dealer and he made spend 750$ and replaced a shifter chip in the triptronic unit. This didnt fix the issue. I am still seeing the failure. Also, now i am seeing the airbag symbol flashing. I took it to the dealer again, and he says he doesnt know what the problem is. Has anyone had the same issue? Any suggestions to fix the issue would be greatly appreciated.
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    Can anyone give me advice on the correct procedure to remove the faceplate without breaking it around the hazzard button. on the center dashboard.

    Backgorund
    My turn signals stopped working, meaning they would flash once and then nothing. Silly me thought that I could easily replace the flasher. i later found that the flasher is located behind the Hazzard button and I have to remove the face plate to change the switch, which is $40.
    Thanks
    Tim
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    I have the exact same problem. The dealer confirmed that the folasher is behind the hazard button. I too would love to know the best way to pry the face plate off without breaking. By the way, I was charge $40 for the flasher and they had to order it. I was told that it is .7 hours to install the flasher, which is $77 at the dealer near me. I would rather find a way to safely do it myself.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    It looks like from the diagram that there are two little spring clips at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and that maybe you just slide something in there and it pops out?

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  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    Thanks. When my ordered new flasher comes in I will try it and post the results.
  • audiman5audiman5 Posts: 8
    Dear Tim,
    I have a 99 A4 which had the same problem. Assuming it's the same, the face plate can be removed with a flat or pointed pick. Place it right on the reveal between the face plate and dash, pull it straight out and you'll see the flasher/hazard unit. I opened my unit up and found out the spring making contact sometimes gets stuck in the closed position. I took a screwdriver and pulled it out and deformed it even more. It worked fine and saved $40. Hope this helps.

    d
  • hnl2ordhnl2ord Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 2000 A4 1.8 Turbo. The car looks nice, I drove it and it feels good, but the "Check Engine" light is on. The car has 82k miles on it, fairly recent 80k check up, does not seem to leak or smell of leaking. The current owner bought it 2.5 yrs ago with about 74k miles on it so he has not driven it much but the check engine light was on when he bought it from a local dealer. After reading this thread, I have become aware of just a few of the things that can keep these cars from running reliably (or just running) and as a long time BMW owner, I am getting woried about this low mileage vehicle. My daughter had a great Audi so I had thought this would be a wise choice. Will not seal the deal till my mechanic checks it out...what should we look for.....what and where are the codes.....advice....HELP!!! :confuse:
  • loveseylovesey Posts: 1
    hello im hopping some one could help im doing an exhust on an audi a4 n reg and i was wondering if you can just fit a new cat o do you have to fit a new down pipe aswell. If some one could get back to me soon it would be very helpful
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    I bet the seller knows exactly what the check engine light means. Which is why he didn't fix it.

    yep, read the codes and find out what's what. I wouldn't buy the car unless the seller fixes the problem.

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  • bballer12bballer12 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I plan on buying a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 98,000 miles on it. Is there any mechanical problems that come with that year modle Audi? The car is in California and I live in Arkansas so i am unable to test drive it.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Unless you can get the complete service history (as in EVERY oil change and what kind of oil was used) for that car since day one, then there ain't no way I'd touch that car with a ten foot pole. Why? Because unless the oil was changed every 5,000 miles and unless that oil met the VW 503.01 or 502.00 oil specification (no exceptions on the oil change interval or the oil, period, full stop, the end), then the engine has a fairly high likelihood of being full of sludge.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    beware the Sludge Monster. Too risky. Take a pass or send an inspector. Shipo is right, this is one car you don't want to mess with if it hasn't been running synthetic oil, changed RELIGIOUSLY on schedule. A 2002 Audi with a sludged engine ain't worth much these days, and you won't like the replacement cost. Pulling the valve cover is mandatory in an inspection.

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  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    One item to look at. About 2 years ago, Audi sent out a notice to 2002 A-4 owners advising them that they would extend warranty on engines that developed or failed due to sludge issues. I remember receiving this item and unfortuneatly don't remember the bulletin number or any other info on it. This would be a good thing to look up as I think it extended the warranty an additional 5 years for coverage of this problem.

    Good place to look is at Audi tech site at

    http://www.audiforums.com/recalls-and-tsbs/make_AUDI/model_A4/year_2002/TSB.htm
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    I searched your link and ALLDATA but didn't see anything like that.
    :(

    But I did find mention of it here:

    http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=&did=948

    Apparently you have to prove your case to get the warranty, so if you are buying used, that's not going to work in most cases.

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  • richukrichuk Posts: 2
    HELP!!!!!!!... ok im wondering if any audi owners can help me with some problems with mine!!.... First all 4 Front speakers are crackling but when you turn the sound up it stops!!.... second, the traction control light comes on - then the glow plug warning light flashes, then the car goes into a "safe mode" (1500 rpm limited).. but this seems to slear itself after about 30 mins stopped its happened 5 times now in two months............ THEN!! theres an unusual "squeak" whenever i go over a speedbump, NO garage can fix it!!............ THEN!! theres my front o/s headlight im assumin its a loose connection but i just wanna moan!!.... LAST!!! theres my door, The bloody rattling window!........ i know im moaning but the traction control light issue is my main concern, i know its going to cost me a FORTUNE in audi to have it diagnosed, if anyone has had simular problems PLEASE PLEASE get intouch, (rc3982@hotmail.com).... my summary is, LOVELY looking / driving / powerful car but dear god dont buy one unless its got one hell of a warrenty!! my car is 4 years old (52) with 52k on the clock and look at the problems, i had before this a vauxhall cavalier 15 years old 1.6 petrol 89k on when she got stolen... i NEVER opened the bonnet other than regular servicing... take advise, audis are lovely, but any problems NOT minor... thanks ya'll!! Richard Clayton (sheffield-England)
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    Thanks to all for the great advice. I did have to buy a new flasher, $40, but I was able to replace it myself. For future reference here is what I ran into.

    The flasher is located within the emergency flasher on the center console. To remove the faceplate simply pry up one corner. There are six metal fastners that hold the faceplate to the console. Once you have the faceplate off use a flathead screwdriver to pry the flasher from the holder, actually this was very easy and I was concerned I might break something. Then you can simply unplug the old flasher and plug in the new one. The only challenge I had was that the six metal fastners that should be attached to the faceplate and snap to the center console all came loose. I had to super glue them back to the faceplate and then reattach it to the center console. So be aware that the little metal fastners, about the size of a staple but thicker, do slide off the center consol and should be glued to the faceplate. I will keep this blog open in case someone has any questions. I was concerned as to how to remove the faceplate without breaking it.

    Thanks
    Tim
  • utahjakeutahjake Posts: 20
    I thought those of you who read my original post in February 2008 regarding the serious engine problems with my 2007 A4 might like to hear the end of the story. After Audi offered to make a car payment of two to compensate me, I contacted a law firm that specializes in lemon law and the Magnuson Moss federal warranty law. They took the case. Mediation went on for a couple of months when finally, the mediator offered me exactly what I had requested in my letter to the VP of Audi - substitution of collateral. Audi took my A4 and I was able to choose a 2008 model up to my original msrp (any money over the msrp was my responsibility to pay) without paying taxes, destination charges or plate transfer fees. My loan stayed the same with only the VIN of the new car being substituted. I did have to pay Audi a mileage fee because of the 20,000 miles on my car when the problems began. Audi had to pay the majority of the attorneys' fees. I decided I did not want another A4, mainly because I could not replace by 3.2 with a 2008 without going over my msrp. So I now own a totally loaded 2008 A3 3.2 S line. I've had the A3 for two weeks now and really like it. It is everything the reviews said it was. I am still not sure if I will keep it after my experience with Audi as a corporation but at least now I have a car that has some value. So for those of you facing serious problems with your car, and not getting any satisfaction from Audi customer service, I definitely recommend letting an expert step in to handle the situation.
  • rascal99rascal99 Posts: 54
    I am glad everything turned out well for you. I think the A3 is a great car. If you really like it I would say keep it. You probably hate Audi right now; but, you are not proving anything to Audi if you get rid of it for spite. There are other car mfrs. that would have acted in the same manner believe it or not.

    It is a shame an attorney and mediator had to get involved. I would have thought if you retained an attorney Audi would have gave in.
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