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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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  • hello!!!

    i have an audi a4 2.8 v6 quattro 1998 automatic triptronic.

    My transmission finally broke down, my mechanic told me that is better to buy a used transmission rather than buy a new oem transmission pump and a rebuilt torque converter. the thing is that the second option it's cheaper than the first one, but my mechanic is skeptical about oem products. What should i do????
  • Find another mechanic. That is the most insane thing I have heard.
  • I bouught my 2008 Audi A4 Quattro automatic in November 2007. It has a serious problem: It burns oil at a rate of 1 quart per 1000 miles. The oil level warning came on at 6000, 10000 and 14000 miles. Each time I had it checked at the dealer where it was purchased and was told each time that no leaks were found and that it was operating normally. They also measured the aforementioned burn off rate according Audi guidelines and informed me that it was "well within Audi specifications and no action is required." These engines are problematic and Audi knows it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    It's time to raise hell I'm afraid, while you still have the chance. This is not acceptable on a new car.

    So you might ask the dealer: "Well, if it's not leaking, then it must be burning it, and if it burns 1 quart every 1000 miles, then you owe me an engine".

    Or you might suggest to Audi that every Audi dealership have a banner in the window advertising those "specs".

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  • I have had my Audi A4 for 3 months with 2400 miles so far and today my Tire Pressure light went on. The tires look fine but I will be taking it to my local tire place tomorrow to check the PSI and adjust if need be. My question is how can I reset the TPMS if the light still does not go off after I adjust the PSI. Thanks for the help!
  • Hi,
    They don't want to risk opening up your transmission and take the warranty issues that come with it. The used tranny will be on you if it goes bad.

    Anyway,
    I have the same model and year with 137k miles. Would you mind telling how your tranny finally failed and at what mileage? What were the symptoms just before?

    This will help me decide what to do with this car.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    D :confuse:
  • I can't get my radio out of the safe mode. I have the code to get it working but I press the two buttons down and hold them (according to the book) and it won't release the safe mode to put the code in. Any help please.
  • when i go like in 3 or 4 gear, the car start to shake a little bit (no matter if the car is in automatic or with the triptronic).

    The slippage occurs in either of two situations: 1) during slight acceleration (feathering-in the gas pedal) on upward inclines without initiating a downshift (which I consider an engine lugging situation), and 2) during slight acceleration immediately after deceleration at 50-60 mph range. The slippage does not occur hard acceleration. No fault lights (red or yellow) are lit and VAG-COM scanning shows no DTC faults in any controller. Also on cold starts it won shift normally

    the other day the car start to make i extrange noise and i saw smoke coming out of the engine, and that was when the mechanical told me that it was a bad trasmission pump. all that with less than 65K (i don't know for sure if the mileage was trick or something, but the car belong to a woman before me that claim she almost didn't used it )

    the mechanic told me that the torque converter it's ok, but the transmission pump not, other option that i have it's to buy a used (in good shape) transmission pump, what do you thing??
  • If a person runs 87 Octane in a vehicle that requires 91 Octane, the engine should not ping because the built-in computer should retard the timing. I own a Nissan Maxima that requires 93 Octane. I have run reg gas (87 Octane). The engine never pings. The only negative would be the performance and the Oxygen sensor may be damaged. The best advice I have been told was to use reg gas every other tank full. The only reason I believe an Audi may ping is because the motor is a turbo.
  • Are there a lot problems with these cars? My friend suggested to me once rather than get a new car you could get 5-6 year old luxury car. Like you can a used Jaguar S Class or Audi A6 thats 5-6 years old cheaper than something like a new Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic. But there are so many problems with these cars. I told him these cars have electrical problems and he's like it would cost $1,000 which shouldn't be a big problem. I would rather have a car that is reliable like a Lexus, Acura, or Infiniti than some luxury Car from Germany or England. I don't even know if Mercedes or BMW are any more reliable than a VW product.
  • I have a 2007 A4 2.0T with the same problem. Burn about 1 quart every 2000 miles since the first 3000 miles of use. I have 9400 miles on the car. The problem is with the PCV valve which tends to fail, thus allowing the high pressure from the intake manifold to leak into the crankcase when the turbo is activated. At 8625 miles I have installed Audi's redesigned PCV valve assembly (It is called a PCV pump by Audi/VW). I have observed no oil burning since. The part cost $75 and there is an hour labor involved. I am trying to get re-inbursed by Audi. We shall see. Ay least the oil loss stopped. It is not really "burning", but venting from the pressurized crankcase. You also are lowering your performance, because leaking from the intake to the crankcase reduces turbo pressure from the 0.9 BAR design point.
  • I am really interested in buying this certified 2006 Audi A4 that I saw last weekend at a dealer's lot. I test drove it and the final offer from dealer is 23,900 + TTL

    Specs: 2006 Audi A4 (registered Sept 2006)
    2.0T Automatic Quattro
    It is certified upto 6yrs/100,000 miles.

    Is this a good deal and how is the reliability of this car? Can I trust the Audi certified warranty?
  • It is a great car to drive. However, you must accept the inconvenience of carrying a quart of oil in your trunk, check the oil level at every time you refill your tank and use roughly a quart of oil every 1200 miles (Audi's level of acceptable oil usage). You will need about 8 quarts between the recommended oil change interval of 10,000 miles. iI you are lucky, or rather if the turbine is not engaged a lot, it might use less.
  • It may not burn and it may not leak at the bottom and still use oil. The problem is that the the PCV pump system's check valve, the one tied directly to the intake manifold after the turbo, is not closing consistently when the turbo inreases the pressure. The increased pressure then leaks into the crankcase that the other end of the PCV pump assembly is unable to vent completely to the pre turbo section of the intake manifold. The oil leaves in part through the orifice of the dipstick tube, You pull out the dipstick and you will find oil residue on the inlet shoulder. You will also find oil residue on the cowling.
  • my central locking system is not working thru the use of the remote. i already replaced the battery of the remote and the same is happening. now i have to lock and unlock manually using the key and it's only the driver's door that's working and the rest are not. and the lock/unlocking button inside by the driver side is not working either. but the alarm system is working. anybody can help me. thank you very much.
  • continuation of the locking system. i forgot, i already checked all the fuses and everything is fine, they are all in good condition. thanks again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Yeah but if it was being pushed out the dipstick hole, the engine bay would be an awful mess. You can imagine this by spraying a quart of oil into your engine bay.

    I think a bad PCV could definitely cause more oil burning however, forcing oil past the rings and giving us the phenomenon called "blowby".

    Another sign of blowby might be a very oily air filter.

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  • Check your owners manual - there is likely a re-set procedure needed after changing the battery in the key fob.
  • Spraying oil into the engine compartment would be a sign of a plugged PCV valve with oil squirting out. Here, the the valve, which is suppose to close when there is positive pressure in the in-take manifold is staying open. the only thing you will see is an oil residue on the cowling, near the oil fill cap and oil deposit on the ring at the end of the dipstick handle and the seat underneath it. If you have instrumentation you can also measure the pressure drop at the turbo output, where the 0.9 Bar normal pressure will drop by about a tenth, because of the leak into the crankcase. We are not talking about a very large amount of oil. My loss is about a quart in 1800-2000 miles. Used to be a quart every 3000 miles. There are lots of suggested fixes. Here is one http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/23. Here is another http://deviantspeed.com/the-ultimate-20t-pcv-fix.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Thank you for that explanation, but still, a quart of oil is somewhere in the engine compartment (or am I misreading what you are saying?). Where does the oil go, this 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles? Either burn or leak, that's it right?

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  • That is right. Some burns no doubt, though my tail pipe finger test comes up negative. Evaporation into the engine compartment might be expelled by the fan, though I have distinct oil deposit on the cowl around the oil refill cap. Audi states that even 1 quart per 1000 miles is acceptable engine performance and I am half of that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Okay got it. I could live with a quart every 2,000 as long as it never got worse. I don't see Audi doing anything about it anyway, since it is "in spec".

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  • I just purchased this 98 Audi A4 and I rolled the back drivers side window down and it wont go up. I can turn the key on and pulled the window switch and it will go up about 1-2 inches and automatically go down. I got it up by turning the key on and my husband held the window up and then I had to turn the key off and back on and it would roll up another 1-2 inches while he held it up. I had to do this til I got it completely up and it stayed. The drivers side front also don't work. I was wondering what might be wrong with it. Can anyone help me with this?
  • You are of course absolutely right. Audi won't do anything on the basis of the oil loss, after all there are some New Beetles, without turbo which use even more oil. However, Audi might be forced to do something because of the pressure leak from the turbocharged section of the manifold. Once the check-valve fails in the PCV assembly, the turbo can never develop the 0.9 Bar (about 13 psi) pressure. This impacts engine performance. All the proposed fixes on the net are addressing this performance loss, not the issue of oil loss. The oil loss is just a symptom.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Yes that makes perfect sense, thanks for explaining that further.

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  • Hi. I tried to do a 'search' but didn't have much luck.

    I have an 02 1.8T with about 78k miles on it. I recently had to have the battery replaced and now I'm experiencing electrical issues. It started with the dome light and door open lights staying on after the doors were all closed. Then the windows stopped working. Sometimes everything would be fine, but the last few days the windows aren't working and the dome light remains on.

    My local mechanic suggested there was some sort of TSB out there regarding water getting into the wiring harness. The numbers he gave me were: Recall: Group 97; Number 02-01, Date: Oct 2, 2002. Subject: Door Electrical Components Malfunctioning.

    Has anyone experienced this problem? Is it a recall? Is it covered by Audi or should I expect to pay a large chunk of change?

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    It's not a recall, it's a TSB: Dealer is under no obligation to repair this, and if he does, it's on your nickel as a rule, with a car this old.

    Does this sound like your symptoms?

    Group: 97

    Number: 02-01

    Date: Oct. 2, 2002
    Subject:
    Door Electrical Components, Malfunctioning

    Model(s):

    A4 2002

    Condition

    Electrical components operated via door control modules and/or switches malfunctioning such as window regulators, instrument cluster door ajar light, interior lights and door lights. Symptoms include:
    ^ Doors cannot be locked or unlocked by remote control.

    ^ Window regulators do not work.

    ^ Inside lights sporadically do not go out.

    ^ Display in cluster shows doors open when all doors are shut.

    ^ Door lights do not work. Vehicle may exhibit one or more of these symptoms at the same time.

    May be caused by water ingress into the wire harness contact housing at the A-pillar or B-pillar which leads to corrosion of individual terminals.

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  • Thanks, Mr Shiftright. That sounds an awful lot like what I'm experiencing. Since the car is so old, and Audi isn't under an obligation to pay, I doubt they'll help. Any ideas as to what we are looking at here as far as cost?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    I guess that depends on:

    1. Are they familiar with this corroded terminal business and have they done it before? (If so, they know right where to look)

    2. Where ARE these corroded terminals? Accessible or buried somewhere.

    it would be great if you showed them the TSB and asked them what they know about it.

    If you are in the San Francisco area I can send you to excellent Audi people.

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  • Unfortunately, I'm in the St. Louis area.

    They asked if the car had been in deep water (we've had floods in the area) - my car hasn't, btw. So I guess they know something about it. But they didn't mention the TSB at all.

    I guess I need to prepare myself for an expensive repair. :-(
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