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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    pigeonlover: I would tend to agree with rowlandj that wheel bearings might be the problem, especially considering that you have 135k miles on them w/o prior replacement. My understanding is that if you are driving at highway speeds and turn your steering wheel slightly (not aggressively, of course!) either way, the noise will stop if it is a wheel bearing. I have a bad left front bearing on my '97 A4, 95k miles, and when I turn the wheel left the noise does stop. audiphile1
  • When I brought my 2001 Audi A4 to my dealer for a repair (four new ignition coils), they told me that it was time to replace the timing belt, The car has 75K miles on it. I agree with them, but they want $1450 for the job. I certainly want a knowledgeable Audi mechanic to do the job, but that price seems high. Does the price seem reasonable? Can anyone recommend a good Audi mechanic in the Boston area (or just north of Boston)? Or can any reliable repair shop do this job? Thanks.
  • Hello! I am looking into purchasing a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T. I have never owned an Audi before and wanted to get some information regarding maintenance and repair costs. It has 40,000 miles.

    I currently own a Lincoln Navigator. I'm wondering if repair and maintenance costs would be comparable to what I own now, higher, or lower. I had a Ford Explorer before that, so obviously the repair costs were cheaper on that than the Navigator.

    I'm just trying to get information online via reviews and just doing as much research as I can before I decide to purchase or not.

    Thanks in advance for any information!
    Erin
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi sandythek: $1,450 seems a bit on the high side, but I live in the St. Paul, and Twin Cities rates might be somewhat lower. The dealers here normally charge around $1,200, but there is a very good VW/Audi/Mercedes/Volvo/Japanese specialty repair shop in St. Paul that will do it for about $950. I would tend to shy away from the dealers unless they have a stelllar reputation. Dealer ratings can be very good or dismal, depending on the experience of a particular owner. My suggestion: Ask other Audi owners where they get their work done. The advantages of working with a good independent shop include generally lower rates AND, most importantly, you can build a relationship and work with the same tech every time. Good luck...audiphile1
  • nvnc514nvnc514 Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum and trying to get some information before I have to take my car in for repair. I have a 2003 A4 Cabriolet and while driving yesterday, my engine malfunction light started to flash and the engine seemed like it was going to die. I have always kept this vehicle in good running order. I took off the gas cap so see if that made a difference but the light is still on and flashing. My dealer is a 30 minute drive away and I am concerned about getting there without the car dying on me. Is it safe to drive this vehicle? Because its Sunday, the dealer is not open, but I am wondering if taking this to an Autozone first is a good idea. Thanks for your help.
  • eddie650eddie650 Posts: 26
    Have you had prior experience with one of your engine coils going bad? One of min on my 05 Cabriolet went bad and it made the engine run extremely rough.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,566
    I wouldn't drive a car with a FLASHING engine light, no. It could mean that your catalytic converter is in real distress from a misfire, and might get damaged.

    MODERATOR

  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi nvnc514: I would concur with eddie650 and Mr. Shiftright. I had the same flashing CEL on my 1.8T Passat, and it turned out to be a coil. Unfortunately, the dealer diagnostic ($100-125?) will likely cost more than the coil ($40-50?). Per Shiftright, it may not be a good idea to drive 30 miles. I would assume that any competent repair shop could diagnose the problem, and some will do it for free or a small charge and if it's a coil, which cylinder it is. Of course, it would be fair to let them do the repair. However, take heed about Shiftright's cat converter warning...you don't want to take a chance on a $700-800 replacement! audiphile1
  • nvnc514nvnc514 Posts: 2
    Thank you to all that responded. I ended up taking my 03 Cabriolet about 2 miles away to a dealer I particularly did not trust, but thought it was better than drive 30 minutes to the dealer where I bought the car. The problem was an engine coil so I had it repaired. My car is not under any warranty now so trying to decide if its worth it to consider an extended warranty.
  • roxproxp Posts: 4
    I have major problems with my 2008 A4. When I would step on the gas pedal, the car engine would rev, but the car would go nowhere. I have had it in Riverside Audi service at least 3 times. I was told it was the gas, then I was told it was the floor mat getting in the way of the pedal (how stupid). Last Monday, 8/10, my car was towed into Service. Needless to say, the car is still sitting there and now was told the part is on backorder and will be another week. I requested Audi of America to pay for the car I rented being they never fixed the car from the beginning, Well, they said their policy does not permit them to do something like that. My A4, was a death trap waiting to happen. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE BUY/LEASE AUDI
  • samaudisamaudi Posts: 10
    I don't think that a fair recommendation, I have a 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro and have had no problems with it for the 4 years that I have had it. It has been nothing but reliable and drives just as well as it did the first day I got it.

    If Riverside Audi isn't fixing the problem, bring it to another Audi dealer. Palisades Audi on Rt. 59 in Nyack has always taken care of me and will give you one of their loaner cars for $15 a day.
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    Hey, folks. 2005 Audi A4 Quattro. In-dash cup holder broke. I'd like to order the part online and swap it out myself. Any installation instructions, links, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I did a discussion search but didn't see this info posted previously.

    Also, I had a speed sensitive growl once; turned out to be a bad motor mount. Engine was thusly making odd noises as it wasn't stable. Might not be the problem discussed a few posts up, but thought I'd mention it.

    Thanks! :shades:
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    I have not had the chance to do a replacement on the cupholder but did find a thread on the process at:

    http://www.audi-forums.com/b6-forum/46777-cupholder-removal-replacement.html

    It does not give any real details or photos but does give a hint as to how it can be removed and a new one installed. Hope it helps.
    Cheers
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    Thanks for the link!
  • Jon,

    I'm having the same problem with my A4. Just started yesterday.

    Were you able to determine the issue? How was it resolved? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • my 97 a4 1.8 b5 handbrake light is always on...can anyone tell me why...thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,566
    Probably the switch under the handbrake loosened up and needs adjustment, or is broken.

    MODERATOR

  • I just recently purchased a 2003 A4 1.8T Quattro with 80,000 on it. It's my first time buying a German car and know nothing about them. Let me take that back. All I knew was they're expensive to fix, and, depending on the year they're gonna need a lot of fixing. Lets just say I didn't do my homework thoroughly. After three weeks i've had three major problems.
    First, it seems like the locking mechanism fell out in one of the back doors. The rest of the car will lock and alarm except that door.
    Second, If i turn the key back to far while its in the igniton, then it seems to come loose. The key and the ignition will just spin in the socket until it catches. The third and most important one is the Gear shifter.
    The transmission is an automatic, with the auto manual. The problem I have is that after about a minute of drive time it seems to want to go hay wire. While in drive it will bounce back and fourth between auto manual and regular auto. Then while in reg auto position, it will get stuck in auto manual, so I have to click it over to auto manual to shift. Sometimes it wont even shift in that position, sometimes it will get stuck in what ever gear it happens to be in when shifted over. THEN, while in auto manual it will shift back over to drive. It’s a cluster f#$k, and it gets annoying.

    The car drives and rides awesome when it wants to but these problems are frustrating. :cry:
  • kinctkinct Posts: 59
    You've nicely outlined why I buy new. Granted, there are people that will sell a car with a mere 6 years, 80k miles because "it's time to move to a new car", but more likely, that person was having problems. They put duct tape & bailing wire over any problem and sold it. Congrats, you're the buyer. I don't recall who had the following famous quote:

    "I never met anyone who sold a car because it was running too well."

    When you buy new, you are much less likely to encounter hosts of flaky issues (please note, I didn't say "won't encounter flaky issues"). My wife and I have owned 6 German cars over my 29 year driving career (hers too) and the only ones that were problematic were the two that we purchased used (my first car was a 73 super beetle, my wife's was a 77 Scirocco). Yes, those two had problems.

    Aside from that:

    - 87 GTI - sold at 213,000 miles, sold still running (though it did need some engine work)
    - 86 Golf - sold at 194,000 miles, sold just due to us needing more room (we had our third child and needed more room). It was running like a champ, the interior & exterior were like new. The guy who bought it was bloody ecstatic (he was a college kid, so my wife demanded we give it to him for a low price).
    - 99 Passat - sold at 224,800 miles, sold it running still beautifully, but I wanted something new, it was 9+ years old. Interior like new, exterior pretty close to new.
    - now on an 07 Audi A4 (practically brand spanking new, 12,700 miles). May it lead a long life.

    On German cars purchased new, we're happy with 4 of 4.
    On the two purchased used, the Scirocco was a real headache - only well after my wife (girlfriend at the time) bought it did we find out it had been in a major accident. We wished we could have loved that car.... The beetle had been horribly abused, but my father and I rebuilt it - we had it about 150k miles (over what it already had on it). Sold it only because I simply lacked the time to maintain it and cute little field mice were making their homes in it.

    Buy used, you're rolling the dice (and the odds are not so good)

    Buy new, you're rolling the dice (but the odds are a hell of a lot better)

    If you buy it new, maintain it! Real keys are oil change (every 5k miles, full synth oil only) and timing belts (follow the recommendations religously).

    Oh, and we always buy manual tranny's (except for a Volvo wagon and 04 Sienna for the wife). The manual transmissions are *much* more reliable than automatics and these new fangled DSG's. On any of the cars bought new, we *never* had any transmission issue or even replaced a clutch. The DSGs have not been around long enough to say how reliable they will be, but they are more complex, so I would anticipate them to be less reliable.

    OK, I'll get off my soap box now. :-)
  • swj1218,
    You make a good argument for buying new. However, I have been forced to work under a different program so far. I say to myself, I can not afford to make $300-$500 payments every month to own a new car, so I will need to find the best darn used car out there and then expect to spend about $500-$800 per year on maintenance. That way I get to drive a really good car but I'm not tied down on payments every month. That being said, I have a 99 Audi A4 Quattro with 147k miles on it and running pretty smoothly. I have had for four years now and have done all the major maintenance on it. However, this being my first Audi, I just wonder how long I should keep it before either the transmission or the engine will fail on me. Any thoughts or inputs are appreciated.
  • kinctkinct Posts: 59
    I understand totally - buying new is pricey (hence our first cars were used, and in my case, not just used but abused). But if I were in your shoes, I would buy the VW Rabbit (or whatever they want to call the low end Golf). That is inexpensive - and I have also owned those and they were champs (87 GTI - mine, 86 Golf - the wife's and then mine when she got the Volvo wagon). For a very long time, I never considered Audi (too rich for my blood). I bought an 07 in July/Aug 2008 (it was new on the lot w 19 miles on the odometer). I got a sweet deal so when I compared it to whatever else I wanted, it was very attractive. A little high-tech for my primitive needs (I'm the kind of guy who still would buy hand cranked windows - because they pretty much do not break).

    Is it a manual or automatic? The manuals will go a LONG time unless you abuse the hell out of the clutch. The engine, if treated well with religious maintenance (synth oil w/ new filter every 5000 miles, you MUST do the timing belt change as per the manual) will easily surpass 200,000 miles and I would even expect it (if I had it new) to surpass 250,000 miles. I had the 1.8T engine in my 99 Passat and it ran like a champ (224,800 miles when I sold it).

    If you have the space, you could always do a search for a similar Audi in a graveyard that had an accident that took out the rear end. If you have 6+ months to search, you should be able to find something. So, what I am suggesting here is start searching now (well in advance of needing the part) and see what you can get it for. Buying new from Audi would be PRICEY (though of course FAR more reliable than getting something out of the car graveyards).
  • audi a4 1.8t 2005
    17090 P0706 Driving range sensor => -F125 1)
    Implausible signal..
    this is the code i am having now .
    multitronic will sheft to S . and i have to go to N and then park , this time i have flashing PRNDS but every thing work fine from there .
    this keeps happening every day .
    please help .
  • Just purchased an 1999A4 turbo, has the winter package and only 88,000 miles....Not only is the check engine light on, but the tempeture light is flashing like the car is going to overheat..The temp, according to the guages is showing normal, not hot or cold....
    The other light that is flashing is a round symbol that has the letters MPH in the middle....Anyone know what that symbol means?
  • hello i have the same car and i have the same problem i don't know what to do ...
    do you know how to solve it ???

    help me !!!
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello: You stated that you "have the same problem"...not sure if you mean the temperature problem or the MPH light. If it's the temperature problem, I'm assuming you don't want to go to the dealer or a shop for diagnosis. I wonder if this might be a defective temperature sensor. You could check your local parts store, and if such a sensor is low cost, just install it in place of the original instead of spending bigger dollars on diagnostics. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, it might be worth a try...just be careful working around hot coolant, and buy yourself a good manual.
    If you're talking about the MPH light, I believe this MIGHT be related to a "speed warning system" that you can set yourself. I think you use the clock button or something to set a max speed, and when you exceed that, you get a warning. If you hold the button for several seconds, it will delete the setting. Check your owners manual for instructions, or maybe someone else has more specific advice. Good luck...audiphile1
  • hello: no i have problems with the gearbox , the PRNDS light flash all the time.
    i don't know what to do.

    please hlp me.
  • HI,
    I bought my Audi in March of 09 with 112k its a auto with manual auto, so far the car has been great.
    I'm up to 115k now and I'm having some minor issues with it.
    I don't know much about cars, I bought my Audi because its AWD and I've heard good things about German made cars as opposed to American made.

    Anyhow, my Audi is shifting sluggishly, occasionally the RPMs will jump up then level back out quickly. also around 70-80 the car has a mild shudder, or wobble.
    I did have my tires replaced and balanced just recently, so the shudder must be something else(I would guess)
    I'm planning on taking it to the dealership to get diagnosed, but I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on the problem

    Thanks in advance for anyones help
  • This sounds familiar. I have 'a 01 and mines turned out to be the hub bearings. 300+ each side. good luck!
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello, jkuebler The reply from gdb20 suggests a wheel bearing, which I would tend to agree with. However, I'm not a big fan of dealerships, even though some of them perform good work. What I DON'T like is that you never know which tech is going to work on your car. Also, they will charge you at least $125 to even put your A4 up on the hoist, and the labor cost is very high. Find a good repair shop in your community. They'll might even diagnose the prob for free, assuming you will give them the work. Dealer's $300 per axle for a bearing sounds high to me. Good luck. audiophile1
  • I bought used. I've had some issues in the 9 months I've owned her. (2005 A4 Quattrro 1.8) Mostly the infamous coil packs discussed thoroughly on this board. Also a motor mount and a small engine leak. And I blew the clutch. And while all is annoying, I bought an extended warranty and folded it into the loan. And with the exception of the clutch, the warranty has paid for all repairs, minus the deductible and small ticky-tack stuff. Audi maintenance is expensive as opposed to say a Chevy. You have to know and accept that going in. If buying used, find an Audi you like and inspect it as best you can. Just my take. P.S. My third coil pack failed this weekend. Grr. :sick:
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