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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Audi & VW have had a running issue with coil packs for many years. Check on the history and details on the problem at:

    http://www.mylemon.com/VW_18T.php

    Also, I had an issue with my A4 1.8T about 2 years back and after discussing it with a "former Audi Service Tech" who had opened his own shop, he related that sometimes the internal oil seal around the valve cover will fail causing oil to fill the space between the coil pack and the valve cover. He claimed that the hot oil could cause the insulator in the coil pack to degrade and possibly short the coil pack out over time. A check of my A4 revealed that there was indeed a oil leak at the valve cover, as noted by oil covering the end of the coil pack and by the oil in the space around the spark plug. The oil was about 3/4" deep and had worked its way into the inside of the insulator. As I work on my own vehicles, (mostly due to poor dealer experiences and their ridiculous costs) I replaced the valve cover gasket simply because of the leak a pretty simple straight forward job (under 2 hours) and parts were not too expensive (under $50) and replaced the coil pack that failed (under $40). Now at oil change, I routinely pull the packs and inspect for leaks. No additional problems noted for past 25,000 miles.

    Additionally, in 2003 VW & Audi did a major recall replacing all ignition coils whether they fail or not on many vehicles, mine included.

    The vehicles affected in this action included cars equipped with 1.8 liter engines, such as the Audi TT and A4; and the VW Golf/GTI, Jetta, New Beetle and Passat. VW & Audi also included the Passat W8 engine, all VW's equipped with the 2.8 liter VR6; as well as the Audi 3.0 liter V6 engine. In total, approximately 530,000 cars were affected by this action.

    I do not know if a similar recall was ever issued for later models or types but it may prove beneficial to check this web page for additional links to the problem:

    http://www.fennelfamily.com/gti-vr6/engine/coil_pack_recall/index.html

    Hope this info helps you out. Good luck and happy driving!!!
  • Please tell me somebody how to solve the problem that nabeel63 posted i have the same problem

    Please help !!
  • Any idea how much the dealer would charge to make this repair? My warranty has expired; however, I've had similar problems with the same window in the past, twice while under warranty. Could I make the argument that it has been an ongoing problem and maybe it should be covered under warranty?

    Thanks.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello, mcmuney. For some reason that is totally beyond my comprehension, not to mention that fact that the Germans are allegedly such great engineers, they have yet to figure out how to make functional power windows. I have had several window problems with my 1999 Jetta and a failed motor on my 1997 A4. This is more tolerable with these older vehicles, but the driver side window just dropped out of the track on my brand new 2005 Jetta wagon with less than 5k miles. This was repaired under warranty, but still inexcusable for a new car. I would guess that a dealer is going to charge AT LEAST $400-500, probably more, for this repair. I would complain VERY loudly. Not sure if you're a do-it-yourselfer, but you can probably find a used regulator from a yard for $100-150 and replace it yourself.
    Good luck, and let us know what happens. audiophile1
  • mcmuney;

    Your claim to warranty may have a very thin leg to stand. If the dealer has replaced the part that went bad on the past two repairs under warranty, you could make the arguement that even though the original car warranty may have expired, the warranty on the PART has not. In good faith, they may elect to repair window and replace the part free but charge you the labor. I had a similar issue with the antenna modules on my A-4. The dealer installed a new unit under warranty about 8,000 miles before the warranty ran out. 1200 miles after the warranty ran out the part failed again. I made the arguement and we decided to split the cost, me paying the labor and the dealer paying the cost of the part. It is worth a try especially if you make a big enough stink that the part did not have 50,000 miles on it. Good luck and let the readers know the outcome.
  • is there anyone in the southampton roads area of va that could possibly work on an audi who is not as expensive as the closest and only dealership which is in Va Beach, my audi is sitting in the yard again after two motors have been put in and I just want to get it fixable, i believe it is a sludge problem that seized this motor as well
  • You guys were right. I didn't want to risk DIY and making thing worse. I stopped by the dealership this morning and made my plea, but according to their records, it wasn't the same window that they repaired. But they did offer a good faith repair. The original cost to repair was close to $600, but they did it for $320 roughly. Plus, they gave me a free loaner for the day, which was nice off them.

    My car has 57K miles and I've been very fortunate with my Audi. Outside of the window issue, I haven't had any problems. However, it's a bit concerning since the cost of repair is so HIGH. I'll be posting a new thread on extended warranty.

    Off-topic: One of my DRL bulbs needs to be replaced and when I asked the service rep, he said that the whole bumper needs to be removed. That's just ridiculous!
  • I got an estimate from my dealership for extended warranty (the Platinum) and the quote is as follows:

    24,000 miles - $2,100
    36,000 miles - $2,800
    48,000 miles - $3,800

    I have a 2005.5 A4 3.2Q with 57K miles and wondering if it will be money well spent to get extended warranty. As I posted on my previous thread, I just spent $320 to replace a window regulator and that's a highly discounted price, which would've been covered under this plan.

    Any advice here?
  • a4quta4qut Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 A4 Quattro 2.0 still under manufacturer's warranty for another 7 months, but I am looking into getting an extended warranty for the same reasons you mentioned - the repairs are expensive!! So, I've been looking around to get me a realible, but affordable, warranty without having to go through my Audi dealer. Can you tell me what company you went through to get the extended warranty? Thanks much.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    What is the year make and model. Audi was forced in 2004, to extend warranties on engines that failed due to "sludge issues" from 5 years/ 50,000 miles to 8 years/unlimited miles. Please see below

    August 31, 2004
    Audi to Extend Warranty on Certain Models Due to Oil Sludge Problems
    Source: Associated Press

    Volkswagen of America Inc. has extended its warranty coverage of certain models for problems caused by oil sludge, which can cause engine damage.

    In the past few days, the company has sent letters to about 400,000 Volkswagen Passat and Audi owners informing them of the extended warranty, Volkswagen spokesman Steve Keyes said Tuesday. The company took the measure after receiving reports of engine problems caused by sludge, a buildup of old or dirty engine oil that thickens and hinders engine lubrication.

    The problem generally is caused by failure to change the oil on time or by the use of low-quality oil, Keyes said. It affects 1998 to 2004 Passats and 1997 to 2004 Audi A4s that have a 1.8-liter turbo four-cylinder engine.

    Volkswagen is extending its usual five-year, 50,000-mile warranty to eight years with no mileage limit on repairs related to sludge, Keyes said. The additional warranty is fully transferrable.
  • I bought my extended warranty thru CarMax; they call it Max Care. According to CarMax's website, they use different vendors for the warranty. Mine seems to be thru Motor Warranty Services of North America. So far so good. My service rep at Audi knows how to spin things to make it more likely that they will cover repairs etc, so that helps.

    Best,
    Mike
  • Get the 48K if you plan to keep the car. All German car parts are highly over-priced (from Audi to Opel).

    I wanted to get an A4 but I was horrified to see the Consumer Reports data for VW/Audi. I trust the report because they got my current car spot-on. The A4 was not nearly as bad as the Passat or Jetta, but they share the same base 2.0 engine. I'm still tempted though....Not sure what to do
  • Hi, I bought my audi A4 frrom Prestige Imports. big mistake!!! My key has broken inside the ignition twice. Once in April 2009 and Then September of 2009. both ocassions leaving me without a car for several weeks as well as NO loaner car, Mind you, I was promised a loaner car in writing when I purchased my brand new Audi. If for any reason my car had a problem I didn't have to worry (LIES). Prestige's lame excuse was that they only have 17 loaners and that they were all booked and they couldn't give me a car that I would have to wait until a cancelation came through. So I called every day to see if someone cancelled and i was always told the same thing no cancelation yet. So I decided to call as someone else to do brakes and other stuff, ETC. and to my surprise there were 2 cancellations and they could fit me in for the very next day. I asked to be transfered to the service manager who was dealing with my car . When I asked him why he had told me that there were no cancellations and the other service manager told me otherwise. He told me to hold on and then told me another lame excuse that oh, there must have been a mistake, ETC. PRESTIGE IMPORTS ARE ALL LIERS. AS WELL AS BRATT HIMSELF. THE OWNER. BEWARE!!!! I SPOKE TO HIM ON THE VERY SAME NIGHT THAT MY CAR KEY BROKE INSIDE THE IGNITION. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER BECAUSE THE CAR STILL RAN SINCE THE KEY BROKE INSIDE WHEN IT WAS ALREADY ON. I ASKED MR. BRATT HIMSELF. IF THEY CAN HELP ME GET A LOANER. AFTER GETTING HIS ATTENTION WHICH WAS KIND OF DIFFICULT DUE TO HIS ASST. MANAGER WHO KEPT ON INSISTING THAT WHAT EVER HE TOLD ME BRATT WOULD DO THE SAME. SO I WALKED UP TO HIM AND ASKED HIM ABOUT MY CAR AND ALL THE OTHER PROBLEMS THAT I HAVE HAD WITH MY CAR. HE DIDN'T WANT TO HERE IT. HE SADI THAT THERE WAS NOTHING HE COULD DO...sO MY ADVICE TO YOU DON'T BUY ANY CAR FROM PRESTIGE IMPORTS..... THEY TREAT YOU AS IF YOU ARE NOTHING.
  • UNLESS YOU WANT TO BE STUCK WITHOUT TRANSPORTATION. DON'T BUY FROM PRESTIGE. THEY ARE THE WORST DEALER FOR AUDI. THE ONLY REASON WHY I GO TO THEM BECAUSE I WAS PROMISED A LOANER. LIES,LIES,AND MORE LIES. NEXT TIME MY 2008 AUDI A4 BRAKES DOWN. I'M TAKING IT TO THE COLLECTION. I'LL GET IT FIXED RIGHT THE FIRST TIME AROUND. WHO CARES IF THEY DON'T GIVE ME A LOANER BECAUSE I HAD BOUGHT MY AUDI FROM PRESTIGE. AT LEAST I KNOW THAT THEY'LL DO THE JOB RIGHT.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Sorry to hear about your bad experience. I believe part of the problem you face is that the dealer (Prestige) carries other top end model cars (Lamborgini, etc.) that sell for more than an Audi, hence they may be focusing more on those markets than on the lower end spectrum of products they sell. I ran into a similar situation when I purchased my Audi from a dealer who also sells Mercedes, Rolls Royce, Bentley and Porche. All vehicles went through the same service drive and the Audi folks kinda got lost in the shuffle with the high rollers. Cut to the chase...find a reputable dealer who sells Audi as his top of the line product, the focus will be there and the satisfaction level most likely will go up.
  • Hi All,
    My 99 A4 has recently been shutting off during driving while I brake or turn. Seems to me like the extra tourque required by the brake pump or steering pump is enough to shut off the engine. Does anyone know what could be the cause?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Might want to check your fuel pressure regulator for openers.

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  • hoowahhoowah Posts: 1
    I'm sure there is a simple solution to this, but i cannot remove by dead battery because the bolt and surrounding area is rusted... Is there an easy DIY method to remove the rust?
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Simplest way is to go to auto parts or hardware store and buy what is called "penetrating oil" ("Liquid Wrench). Apply it liberally (but don't overdo it) to the threads and base of the bolt where the nut joins it. Let it soak in overnight and then reapply. Key is to give it time to soak in and work on dissolving and penetrating the rust. If you have the room, you can then try giving the nut a couple of decent taps with a punch and hammer to help "break the bond" between the nut and the bolt/stud. Then use a good fitting wrench (socket, box or last resort open-end). Key is to not over torque the nut as it could snap leaving you with an even bigger problem, so take your time and let the penetrant do its thing.

    Hope this helps, and do what we do here in Texas...have patience...that's why God gave us Tony Romo.

    Cheers
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    You can also take a hacksaw blade and cut through the bolt right in its center (where the cable end pinches together). Don't go pounding on the battery, you'll damage it. If this is the Positive post, be careful that the hacksaw doesn't touch anything metal as you work. Wear safety glasses.

    But yes, rust penetrant, patience and maybe some vice grips are the best way to go.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • lingvilingvi Posts: 2
    2009 A4 Premium Plus. Anyone have problems with driver side (front door) window rattling noise? Anytime I go over a bump or minor pothole, the window/door rattles. I brought it to the dealer but they said they couldn't reproduce it. Planning on bringing it back in and having the mechanic go on a test drive with me.

    Thanks in advance.
  • boss9boss9 Posts: 1
    Hey guys. Im planning to buy an Audi A4 1.8T. However, when i first started it, the idle was kinda high then it got normal after a few minutes. just wanna know if thats normal and are there any problem i should expect knowing that the vehicle has 83k miles?
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hey boss: Can't comment on the high idle...might be a good idea to take the car
    into a good independent Audi tech and have all systems checked. With 83k, a few things to watch for: 1) You don't mention model year, but it's getting close to the spec (90k) for TIMING BELT change, and many owners change it at even 75-80k. This is an "interference" engine...if the belt breaks, you could blow the engine. Figure $900-1,000 cost to change belt; 2) Jack up the front end and verify control arms and tie rod ends are solid. If bad, you could be looking at $1,000+ unless you're a do-it-yourselfer; and 3) I would not buy this car without service records which verify use of VW/Audi-approved synthethic oil (Pentosin or Mobil 1 5W-40 etc. These engines are prone to sludging, and if you don't have the service records, you are probably SOL. Once again, take it into a good tech before buying! Good luck. audiophile1
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    very good advice from the dawg!

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  • Herr Audi,
    Vas is los mit der marketingeng departmenten? Sie forgotteningen der solid, basic krautenrockert mit der AWD und manual transmissionnen fur der station vagonen.

    Achh! Hoi! Ver is der solid AWD krautrocken station vagonen mit der manual transmisionen?
  • Audi 2005 A4 Quattro. Engine makes a whirring / whining noise every now and then. Used to be way worse until I got a motor mount replaced. Still whirs / whines every now and then but let it go as normal Audi quirks. Also, brakes squeal a lil; but last time in was told I had enough left on the brakes to not warrant immediate action. Now, lo and behold, I have a new troubling noise. Very hard to describe as it is quite diffuse. Best I can describe is that's it's metal grinding. Maybe occasional clunking. And if I had to guess, I'd say the noise emanates from the rear. Reading thru this discussion, seems like it might be ABS related. I can't isolate when it happens, though it *seems* to happen mostly when I decelerate and break. I know ABS does a boot-up or whatever when you first start the car. My noise is after having driven for a while. Any thoughts, suspicions, etc? Thanks, Mike :sick:
  • hi , i bought an audi a4 2002 and the car has couple of issues. The first and probably biggest is the engine. I put the diagnostic system on and i got that all four cylinders miss firing, i pulled the packs off one by one and i found out that the second cylinder was not running. I have changed the coil packs and that did not solve the problem later I checked the compression in the cylinders and I got good value only from one cylinder. Open valve? cylinder head seal?
    could anyone help me ?
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Sounds like you made a good start at trying to diagnose the problems, but I have a couple of questions that may be able to narrow the search. I assume it is a 1.8 liter engine.

    1. You state that a diagnostic system was put on the engine. Did it record or do you have any codes related to the misfiring? If you have the codes it could help to narrow down the problem.

    2. You relate that you checked the compression and got a good value for only one cylinder. Did you do the compression check correctly? For proper check, Audi Tech info requires that the engine oil temperature be at least 85 degrees; the fuel pump fuse be removed; all plugs pulled; fully open throttle valve; attach compression tester and crank engine until the tester shows no further pressure increase. This will give you most accurate compression check. Tech info also shows that on new engine, compression can be 9-14 bars ( 130-200 psi) and the minimum acceptable compression is 7.5 bars (110 psi) with allowable difference between cylinders being 3.5 bars (44 psi). If your readings are within this range, then it is fairly safe to say that the head seal is good (from what I have found, the 1.8 engine head gasket usually does not fail too often).

    3. When you pulled the plugs, what did they look like, did they have discoloration? Sooty? Burnt? Correctly gapped? Any deposits that would indicate oil or coolant leaks? Did you replace then when you replaced the coils?

    4. Additional info on misfire that you should check is: Faulty spark plug; Faulty ignition wires with connector; Faulty fuel injectors; Crankshaft housing leak (check the hose setup of the crankcase ventilation system for secure seating and proper seal) as this will also cause problems with engine firing correctly (emissions issues)

    Hope this info helps you diagnose your problems. Let the group know of your success.

    Cheers
    Mercops
  • wendyxwendyx Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 A4 1.8T Convertible with 53K miles. I'm noticing a shudder when I accelerate from a stop . . . any thoughts on the cause? It has been going on for awhile but in the last few days it is more often and more pronounced.
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