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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tremeretremere Posts: 24
    My friend's 2001 A4 is leaking oil. She loses a quart of oil in a week. She stopped by a dealership and they said that the gasket is leaking and will cost $1500 to fix (labor and parts). Does that sound reasonable?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "...and they said that the gasket is leaking..."

    Ummm, which gasket? The A4 has lots of gaskets, some are a piece of cake to replace, some not so much. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,636
    what's the P code say?
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    Cold start valve was the culprit on my older Audi. ;)
  • tremeretremere Posts: 24
    Ok, she got the car looked at and they said that the main oil leak was from the cam seal and the valve cover gaskets. Additionally, they've suggested a few items that need repair:

    SERP belt
    valve cover gaskets
    cam seal x4
    timing belt
    water pump
    tensioners

    Total cost of $1800 plus tax. Does that sound reasonable?

    The water pump, timing belt, tensioners, etc don't need immediate attention, but they suggested that since they're already working on the engine, might as well take care of the other stuff.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmm, $1,800 for all of that work? Yeah, I suppose it isn't too bad. That said, I'd find a good independent German car mechanic and get a second opinion and quote. I'm thinking that you can get all of that work done for nearer the 1K mark versus the 2K price tag that you're now looking at.

    In addition, I'm very curious why they think the cam seals are shot.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • audiman5audiman5 Posts: 8
    My 99 A4 had "similar" leaks so I changed the valve cover gaskets, but did not stop oil drainage. It turns out, a metalic tube had a broken weld and was leaking the oil.

    You may want to ascertain exactly where the leak is occuring "seeing for yourself" before investing in the fix.

    Just a thought....

    d
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Sounds like the same problem that I am experiencing. 2002 Audi A4 Quattro with 53,000 miles. Power steering fluid has been coming up almost empty between servicings and I have also reported it during serving at dealer. Told repeatedly no leak found. Recently, I noticed a large puddle of fluid on the on the ground on the passenger side of the car after a very cold morning. I checked under the car and a large amount of fluid was dripping from the undercarriage on the passenger side near the suspension arm. I pulled it into my home garage and took the lower plastic deflector pan off. The pan had approximately 1/2 pint of fluid accumulated in the valley of the pan. It appears that the power steering seal at the end of the steering rack has let go and the dust boot that covers the end of the rack and the seal apparently ruptured. I am very concerned that this problem could possibly lead to a fire as the fluid leaks on to the exhaust and subsequently poses a hazard that should be addressed by Audi. I have not contacted Audi to determine if they have a repeated problem with this. I have checked the Audi Recall and Technical Service Bulletins (http://www.audiforums.com/recalls-and-tsbs/make_AUDI/model_A4/year_2002/TSB.htm- ) but do not find one listed for this problem. If anyone else is having the same problem, please let the rest of us know. I understand that the seals are not field replacable and the rack must be pulled and replaced at a cost of $400+ for a rebuilt rack and $800 for labor. Ouch!!
  • I need help with as to what grade of gas to use on 2008 A4 2.0T. The dealer told me to use the premium. Manual recommends premium, but also states the minimum requirement is 87 octane. With expected gas prices @ $4/gal. this summer, can I use regular fuel on this vehicle without damaging any engine components? Please help...
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    First the good news, yes, you can use Regular without damaging your engine. Then the better news, if you use Premium gasoline, you'll get better fuel mileage (more than enough to offset the extra cost of Premium) and have more power on tap at any given moment.

    So, the question is, while you can use Regular, why would you want to? It's kind of one of those "fool's economy" things, while any given tank will cost less with Regular, your fuel costs per mile will actually be higher.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • I have the same steering rack problem on my 2002 A4 Quattro with 63,000. Every couple of months for the about the last 6 months, power steering fluid has been low enough to cause a bad sound while steering. Yesterday, my regular mechanic said the only thing he could find was dampness on the right side of the steering column and he thought it was probably a problem with the steering rack. He recommended I take it to the dealer. I'm guessing they'll tell me the seal at the end of the steering rack is bad. Ugh.
  • daveg518daveg518 Posts: 1
    i bumped into the back of another car yesterday and the grille has a tiny bit of damage..it is a little bit loose and one of the chrome pieces came out (i pushed it back in)..how much would it cost to get replaced? You wouldn't even know i got in an accident unless i told you...
  • mreidya4mreidya4 Posts: 1
    Well I must say an A4 can last very long i have a manual 96 A4 with over 222,000 miles and still going strong. yes she has her minor maintenance issues like a starter at 98,000 miles and control arms and ball joints at 110,000 miles. And i changed the timing belt at 150,000 mile. But other than that she is perfect so i looks like the new cars just aren't built as well as the older cars..
  • rose18rose18 Posts: 1
    can anyone advise on how much it should cost to repair the mass airflow sensor and a leak on the valve cover gasket? I have a 2003 Audi A4 (1.8)

    I am getting quoted a price of $310 for the mass airflow sensor and $320 for the valve cover gasket. Is this too much?

    Would appreciate any help!
  • I have a 2000 Audi A4. The turn signals turn on but do not flash. Where is the flasher relay located
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,636
    If I recall rightly, it's in the hazard warning switch itself, which you have to remove from the dash. You might check on this with the dealer's parts department but I think that's right. As for getting it out, I don't have the repair manual on that job. Some interenet sites say just carefully pry it out with a thin blade; others say you have to remove the dashboard trim.

    Visiting Host
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,636
    MAF is $210 parts + 1.8 hr labor

    Valve cover gasket is $36 parts + 1.4 hr labor.

    Where I live (labor rates of $105 per hour) the MAF quote sounds like a good deal but the valve cover quote sounds way too high.

    I'm only going by what you've told me and reading from a book, so use this info accordingly.

    Visiting Host
  • wilnerwilner Posts: 30
    i already replaced the ABS control module and everything is fine.my new problem, i replaced the tie rod ends and my mechanic told me to have a wheel alignment. i went to a dealer and the service manager asked the tech or the mechani if he can do it today and the tech advised her(service manager) to buy a subframe bolt 4 of them because it's an all wheel drive before he can perform the alignment without checking the car yet. i told them that i replaced the tie rod ends. DO I NEED A SUBFRAME BOLT JUST TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT OF THE WHEELS WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT FIRST? OR DOES THE SUBFRAME BOLTS NEED TO BE REPLACED?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,636
    The subframe bolts should be replaced IF they have ever been loosened or removed for some other procedure. If they haven't ever been touched, I'm not seeing a reason to replace them.

    The reason for replacement is that they can stretch and you won't get the right torque on them.
  • wilnerwilner Posts: 30
    my mechanic replaced the tie rod ends, axle on the passenger side and the brake rotors/pads. so does the subframe bolts were loosened or remove on these procedures?
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