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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair



  • I noticed that manual states that I can program my keyless entry to unlock all door at once with a single press, rather then double press in default setting. Manual said that I need to contact dealership to do that which quoted me $50 for that. I'm pretty sure it's 10 step process worth 5 minutes total and don't beleive it's a fair price I'm supposed to be paying to reprogram the vehice. Anybody has instructions how to do that?
  • Are you sure you want to do that? I drive a lot by my self and I don't always remember to lock the door back after I take off. I don't want to be driving around town with all the door's unlocked nor do I want my wife to. And I know she won't remember to re-Lock all the door's when she's driving by her self.

    So it's better to just have one door unlocked.

    at least for me..............................
  • Not to pick on you personally - does that second push on that button really take that much out of you? Or is it the nagging knowledge that it could be "better" and need only one push? It is that way for a reason, and I think it's a good one. I just got back from trip to Vegas, and in those big parking structures Caesar's Palace late at night (early morning?)I'm glad I didn't have to unlock the opposite sides' doors to get in. Stay safe.
  • Just FYI, for those with low (or high) idle-speed problems:


    After cleaning the Idle Speed Control Valve on Wednesday evening, I took a 500-mile banzai run to Vegas and back. I left at 5:30am Thursday morning, and just got back 5:30pm Friday night. Results my ISCV experiment - it's like new. Much better than I thought it would be. I left the throttle stop per factory specs, and no low speed idle problems, no high-speed idle problems, no cold-start problems (at least at Las Vegas morning temperatures of 40'F)- just a normal higher-for-awhile after the cold start, then about 2 minutes later, back to about 700RPM. So far, it's cured.
  • HI: I bought a 2005 4-Cyl FWD Highlander a few weeks ago. So far so good (if you can say that with 400 miles on a car), however, at warm idle I notice a vibrating sound when I step on the brake. I think it might be coming from the booster or possibly the air cleaner assembly which appears to be kind of loose.


    Has anyone else experienced this?

    Is the air filter assemble supposed to float in it's holder? I notice a plastic piece at the bottom.


    I'd hate to take the vehicle to the dealer for something that might be trivial or normal.


    Regards and safe driving to all,


  • I notice there is no mention in the maintenance scedule about changing the fuel filter. Has anyone seen a fuel filter on a Highlander? If so please tell us where it is. Thanks.
  • edhedh Posts: 246
    my 94 camry has no change frequency.

    some top toyota forums run by ex service advisors say adamantly to NEVER change the filter.
  • loucapriloucapri Posts: 214
    Agree with you.

    I got the same answer from one toyota service manager. He told me the fuel filter doesn't need to be replace unless I am having trouble with my car (which I don't have any problem at all 97 Camry @ 110k miles and 01 HL @ 90K miles)


    On the other hand, another toyota dealer didn't explained to me at all but just telling me it will cost about $250 (if I remember correctly) to have it replace on my Camry
  • loucapriloucapri Posts: 214
    I own a 2001 2WD 4 cyl


    I got it last yr at 79K miles on it. I put about 10K and no problem at all. I have not seen problem like most others in this board.


    Car still runs and sounds great. You can't really tell it actually have about 89K miles right now.


    I don't know your driving condition but in Seattle, we have snow once or twice in the winter time and the 2WD has a "snow mode". In my opinion, it doesn't do anything at all. Just like putting your car in 2nd gear. I still couldn't get out of my driveway.


    If that's not an issue, I think the 2WD is more valuable than the V6. But keep in mind, it's a 4, not V6 so don't expect too much on the power side. But it works for us. My wife drives that car with my baby and it get a little better gas mileage over the V6.


    Overall, she likes it and it's a keeper for now.
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Posts: 343
    I have a 2003 V6 AWD LTD, with 39,000 miles.

    I am trying to trouble-shoot a braking issue.


    When braking gently, I can feel the car slow down but it seems like the car is surging (like the pads are gripping on high spots on the rotor).

    Also - if braking moderately at freeway speeds. The steering wheel will pulse (just like it feels with an unbalanced tire), but my tires are balanced. The pulsing seems to match the wheel rpm. Also, the surging matches the wheel rpm (as the vehicle slows, so does the surging).


    I have used a dial indicator on the rotors and they are +/- 0.001" run out. This is when they are cool. It could be worse when they are hot.


    Today, it was raining, and I noticed the effect was less when the brakes were cold.


    Could I have the dreaded "warped rotor" condition, or is it something else?.


    Anybody have this problem and how was it resolved.


    I am about to spend $150 on a pair or rotors and another $45 on a set of brake pads. I don't trust the dealer to work on my car.


  • Feb. 5--The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration plans to look into a transmission hesitation problem in certain Lexus and Toyota models to determine whether to go forward with a full investigation .

  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I've had several vehicles with the dreaded warped rotor disease. The symptoms were exactly like you listed. The only known cure without replacement is to "turn the rotors" as long as they stay within specs. I've seen ads from auto parts stores for $10 if you bring the rotors in.
  • It sure sounds like warped rotors. Sometimes this is due to cheap rotors - not enough thermal mass to hold up under heavy braking. But more often it's due to bad procedures in torquing the wheel nuts. I've experienced this first hand, at the hands of an over-zealous tire-mounting jockey at a local tire store. (Since then, I only go to tire stores that offer the "hand-torque" to final torque specs).


    When I had my warped rotors, I was able to get it a little better by re-torquing the wheels. First, jack up the vehicle, loosening all 5 nuts, and re-torquing all five in the 5-cross pattern - and incrementally at that. By 5-cross I mean snugging up the first one, then going clockwise, skipping the next one, and snugging number 3. Then 5, then 2, then 4. Keep going, tighter each time (I use three passes), until you have them all to spec. When I do it, I do the first-stage of loosening before jacking up the vehicle - and the last tightening after lowering.
  • I just got a 2002 4-cyl. It doesn't have the Traction Control that the 2004 and later models do.


    I'm working from the theory that the Traction Control can't make any more traction - it just uses the brakes to transfer power from the slipping side to the other side. As the extreme example, if both tires are bald, you still won't go anywhere - both tires will slip. Essentially, a vehicle with good tires and no Traction Control will get thru more bad conditions than a vehicle with Traction Control and weak tires. So, I'm investing in some good All-Season rubber. I've read some not-too-flattering posts about the OEM tires. What tires does anyone recommend in the All-Season category for the Highlander's 225-70R16? The Yokohama Geolander H/T-S G051 looks good - anyone have these? How about the Michelin LTX M/S - are they worth the extra $$?
  • edhedh Posts: 246
    teenagers also cause warped rotors
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    I have wind noise at the rear passenger side

    window/door. Plan on taking it to the dealer.

    I've got 6k miles.
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Posts: 343
    Thanks for your input.

    I have always torqued my own wheels - to 80 ft-lbs, using a cross pattern.


    I don't think I want to "turn" the rotors. When its all said and done (factoring labor charges, waiting for the vehicle etc), I am just going to buy new rotors and pads, and install them myself.


    Looking at the physical design of the rotor and how the wheel attaches, it look like it would be impossible to warp the rotor by over tightening the lug nuts.

    The lug studs are attached to the axle hub flange. The rotor goes over the flange and sits flush against it. The wheel mounts to the rotor in the same area of the rotor / hub flange.

    The only downside to over tightening the lugs would be to stretch the studs ever so slightly, as all the surfaces in question are all stacked against each other like a stack of pancakes.


    How this can deflect or even influence the rotor disk where the pads are - is beyond me.


    I think its more likely to be a design issue with cast iron parts, ventilated disks.


    Thats just my 2 cents.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    << I don't think I want to "turn" the rotors. When its all said and done (factoring labor charges, waiting for the vehicle etc), I am just going to buy new rotors and pads, and install them myself >>


    You'd rather spend $150 for new rotors rather than spend the $10 - $20 to turn the old ones? You still have to take the old ones off since you said you're doing the work yourself. It's your money.
  • gwkisergwkiser Posts: 326
    GO TO POST 7198 in main Highlander forum. I've never tried it, so USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
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