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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair



  • jrfierojrfiero Posts: 123
    I haven't driven any highway miles since replacing the PCV. I have a trip planned in August, and I'll be paying careful attention.
    I'll let everyone know after that trip.
    I did read 4875, and was happy to see it.

  • dahandahan Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 highlander. Its Check Engine Light came on recently. I had the code scanned and it reported P0441, P0442, P0446.

    Many messages on the web suspected it was caused by a hose knocked off. I found a loose hose from the case of air filter.

    The rubber hose (about 1/2 inch wide and and a foot long), which comes out of the air filter case at the top of the driver-windshield direction (right below many wire-looking tubes), is connected to nothing.

    And there is an upward metal tube, located right below the rubber hose, with an upward opening.

    I think I should connect the free rubber hose to the metal tube by covering the metal tube with the rubber hose.

    Am I doing the right thing?

    Thanks a lot.
  • bikeman3bikeman3 Posts: 85
    My 03 did the same thing. i recconnected the hoses and relocked the air filter housing which had popped open., It took about 3 weeks for the CEL to go away.
  • phrosutphrosut Posts: 122
    Yes, connect that hose to the pipe. It usually pulls off when the air filter is changed but takes a few hundred miles before it turns on the CEL and/or the VSC lights.

    If you want the CEL to go away faster, disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect.

    I usually pencil down the station numbers in the radio memory rather than have to figure them all out again.

  • bikeman3bikeman3 Posts: 85
    If you disconnect the battery and live in PA, the emissions test will show that you did it and will not test your car until it is reset thru normal driving or by a mechanic
  • dahandahan Posts: 2
    Thank you, bikeman3 and Phil. A few days passed, at least the CEL has not come back yet.
  • I am the original owner of my "05 highlander V6. I now have 60k miles on it and recently took it to my dealer for an oil change. They tell me the rear brake pads have about 2mm left and the front have 44mm left and that I should replace them asap. They would also machine the rotors.

    My only concern is should i they machine the rotors wouldn't that damage the pads quicker meaning I wouldn't get 60k miles off of them as I did originally?

    Is it a better idea to replace pads/rotors at the same time vs replacing the pads again at another 30k miles because the machined rotors are damaging them?

    Is there anywhere someone could recommend that I go to get a free estimate because maybe the dealer is taking me for a ride....but maybe not..

  • shagnatshagnat Posts: 78
    This doesn't smell quite right to me. I assume on the front you mean 4mm and not 44mm, right? :)

    Anyway, you should not have to turn the rotors. I have never had my rotors turned on any of my previous 4 Toyotas, nor on my -03 Highlander that currently has 75K on it.

    I'd definitely call BS on your dealer unless he's willing to pull the wheels and lets you feel the rotors yourself. Minor differences (ridges etc) don't need to be machined flat. However, if there is quite a bit of difference, you be the judge, between parts of the rotors, then yes, I'd have those turned, but, I cannot see why the rotors would have large differences (ridges) in them.

    Keep us posted on your findings.
  • correct 4mm, so do you feel there is no reason to have the rotors resurfaced? should I just have the pads changed? When do rotors have the get replaced completely?
  • Should I stick to Genuine Toyota brakes pads? Has anyone had luck with something different/less expensive?
  • jrfierojrfiero Posts: 123
    IIRC the wear limit for HL pads in 1mm, so you're not in dire need of new brakes.
    Curious that the rear wore more than the front, that's unusual.

    There's a long exchange about surfacing rotors on this forum somewhere.

    Rarely is there a need to surface rotors, usually only if you've let the pads wear to metal and the rotors are badly gouged.

    Rotors have a minimum acceptable thickness, below which they can't be turned again. With normal wear and no resurfacing, you'll probably never reach that limit.

    If you feel at all inclined to do your own work, these are the easiest pads to change of any car I've ever done.
  • tsotsitsotsi Posts: 98
    Service advisers get a commission when they talk an owner into getting work done so they have an incentive to overstate the need for brake work. Highlanders have a brake wear sensor on each pad so you will get an audible warning when the pads are worn badly enough to need replacing. The rear pads are a lot smaller than the front pads so it is not unusual for them to wear out first.

    If you are not getting an uneven feeling on the brake pedal, indicating that the rotors are warped, and if the rotors do not have very deep scoring you probably don't need to replace them. Dealers make more money when they resurface or replace rotors and they also can argue that brakes are so important, everything should be absolutely pristine.

    Car company engineers and technical writers for car magazines normally say it is fine to just clean and lube everything and stick in new pads, leaving the original rotors, for the first pad change . . . assuming the rotors are not totally trashed.

    I normally stick with original equipment pads. You know how well they work and any other brand may be noisier or feel different. Of course they could be better, but I think Toyota designs good vehicles and brake pads are part of that design.
  • mrgrldmrgrld Posts: 6
    I've replace mine with ceramic brake pads and it works great. No dust and no noise. I've also replace my disc/rotor with a slotted set.
  • I do have a bit uneven feeling. Not alot.
    So I am safe in waiting for the sensors to come on and not warping the rotors?
  • tsotsitsotsi Posts: 98
    Original equipment rotors only warp if they have been overheated -- usually due to extreme braking -- or if the wheels have been overtightened or tightened unevenly. It is normal to feel a little bit of unevenness in braking at low speeds. Cheap aftermarket rotors are sometimes warped when new.

    Once you hear the warning tone from a brake sensor you have a few thousand miles to replace the pads. Wait too long and you may damage something. One millimeter doesn't sound like much until you realize that the pads start out life at about six millimeters and last for more than 50,000 miles.

    Toyotas have good brakes and there aren't many surprises. A little common sense goes a long way. Dealers naturally want to make money by encouraging customers to change brake pads and rotors before really necessary. It obviously is not smart to ignore any kind of warning sign -- the brake wear sensors are there for a purpose.
  • At 60k miles I never changed my brake fluid. is it a good idea to do it when the pads are changed? Or can they just top it off?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Yes, I have mine changed with a brake job. But it really depends on the condtion of the fluid. It should be somewhat light brown, almost clear. If it's dark, change it.
  • shagnatshagnat Posts: 78
    Tell the dealer you want to feel the rotors for any large ridges/gourges or whatever they call them.

    90%+ of the time, a rotor doesn't need to be resurfaced (turned). Also, I don't think you're in any imminent danger with your brakes. Find another Toyota dealer, if that's not possible find a good reliable independent garage and get their opioion.

    Yes, use genuine OEM Toyota pads. I worked for Toyota for 11 years, and there is definitely a difference in el cheapo pads from some of the big box stores, and the Toyota pads. I can't speak for other OEM brands as I have no experience with them.

    Let us know how things go for you. keep asking questions if you need to.
  • My wife has a 2008 Rav4, I have my 2005 Highlander V6 with 60k miles on it. I am debating on something.....I have a need for only 1 suv. i live 5 min. from work so I might want to scale down to a Corolla? Am I nuts? says I could get $18,500 for mine on a private party sale and around $16k for a dealer trade in. The Corolla I am looking at is $20k.
  • do you think it's safe to wait until the brake sensor light comes on?
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