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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jasuja2000jasuja2000 Member Posts: 5
    thanks.I tried to ignore it for while, but it's just so annoying, I am going back to the dealer. First time they couldn't find anything wrong. They admitted there is vibration.
  • rainforestrainforest Member Posts: 3
    I have a 02 highlander. I like to purchase a dealer extened warranty. Does it worth to do so? I'm in Florida. Who or which dealer should I contact to make the purchase?
  • jrhflajrhfla Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the advice. I'll write to both Toyota and the NHTSA.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    FWIW: there is a TSB for the Camry and Solara - something to do with an intermediate shaft; i wonder if a similar problem exists in your vehicle:
    http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/1140076800000_1141718400000_ST001-06/11.html

    good luck.
  • jjsjjs Member Posts: 18
    I guess I have to endure the unpredictable transmission shift pattern. Thanks for your input
  • jrhflajrhfla Member Posts: 13
    In looking at the TSB diagram, I'd say this is *exactly* the situation my car had. It's the lower steering wheel U-joint assembly. Unfortunately, the TSB refers to the 3 year/36000 mile warranty as the only coverage to fix it. I did file a report online with the NHTSA. That was pretty easy. I'll write to Toyota headquarters in Torrance CA next.

    Thanks for the alert.
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    You can also send Toyota an e-mail and call.
  • jbartleyjbartley Member Posts: 1
    How did you make out with Totota USA? I just paid a grand to get my 01 Highlander w/48K heater fixed. I requested help from the dealer but I'm not getting any help.

    John
  • eddieeeddiee Member Posts: 25
    I have a 2002 AWD V6 Highlander.

    I just got into an accident that seemed to be caused by my antilock brakes.

    I was going 45ish on a side road and the person in front of me just stopped short at an intersection without signalling.

    I stood on the brakes and they acted like I was on ice, going into the pulsing behavior that is normal when you are braking on slippery surfaces. I just kept on rolling.

    When I realized that I was not going to stop I steered off and up an embankment on the side of the road but still dinged the car ahead which had successfully stopped behind the jerk that caused the accident (who of course drove off).

    There was no skid rubber marks in the road. Is this the way antilock brakes are expected to work on the Highlander?

    My wife has a 2005 Altima and I had a different situation at highway speeds where another jerk just changed lanes and cut right in front of me. When I slammed the brakes I laid down a patch of rubber, drastically reducing speed, but still maintained steering control to avoid the jerk.

    Have others had similar behavior as me? I plan on having them checked at my next service but anticipate the "that's the way they are supposed to work".

    I'm sure I could have avoided my accident in an old clunker without antilock brakes

    Thanks
  • assasinassasin Member Posts: 1
    can anyone guide me on the pricings of serpentine belt for 01'highlander? and is it necessary to change it if it looks a bit cracky?
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    If ABS are working properly they will stop your car more quickly than you could under the same conditions with traditional brakes. Whenever you leave black marks on the pavement you are skidding, which increases stopping distance. From what you describe, your ABS were functioning like mine do. I guess what you need to find out is if they were functioning optimally. Your dealer should be able to diagnose whether they are functioning at the proper rate per second.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..is this the way anti-lock brakes are expected to work on the Highlander?"

    Yes, EXACTLY.

    But there is a fly in the ointment.

    While some car salespersons, idiots all, still continue to believe otherwise the actual, core purpose, of Anti-lock braking is NOT to allow you to stop more quickly or in a shorter distance. That might happen in some random situations but that will be pure happenstance.

    The above information is in your owners manual in plain english.

    The idea is to prevent a total skid wherein ALL traction of the front wheels is sacrificed to hard or severe braking, leaving nothing, ABSOLUTELY nothing, remaining for maintaining or regaining directional control of the vehicle.

    I don't know if you remained HARD on the brake pedal when you began to stear away from the potential rear ender, but that is the actual purpose for which anti-lock is intended, to allow you to continue stearing during heavy or hard braking maneuvers.

    One of these days some bright young automotive engineer will have a really bright idea and maybe then the anti-lock system will be coupled to the VSC system such that ABS will not activate until loss of directional control is impending.

    In your case I have no doubt that provided the vehicle did not tend to skid sideways during your braking maneuver your vehicle would have come to a stop in a shorter distance than with ABS activation.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Hopefully no one was hurt in the accident.

    I've used the antilock brakes in a couple of emergency situations, once in the HL, and once in a Ford Ranger. Neither time do I recall leaving skid marks, though am not 100% positive I didn't. (In both cases the car ahead of me heard my braking and moved forward to prevent a fender bender; I was lucky.)
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Please, it is steering not stearing. Thanks
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    And please, it is brakes not breaks!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    please, it's center, not centre, and/or color not colour.

    Google:

    dictionary stearing
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The nice thing about English is that it's malleable. Let's stick to cars in here please, eh?

    Steve, Host
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Well Google is wrong this time. I have Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary--American Edition. There is no such word as stear. This has nothing to do with American/Canadian/British usage. Stear is simply wrong. Back to the Highlander.
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    One of the problems confronting anyone using English is the diversity of spellings and the names for common objects. I live in Australia, which has differing spellings of some words to either the USA or the UK (which is closer to Australian English). Thus in the UK and Australia, we use "centre" and "colour", which are both listed in my copy of Webster's as British variations of USA usage (with their own listings).

    More complicated is the differences in descriptive terms. What Americans call the "hood" is a "bonnet" for both Australians and British readers. A "trunk" to us means a large box like object, typically made out of metal in which you put clothes or things . We refer to the space at the rear of a car with a separate opening a "boot".

    What is even wierder is when you live in the UK and discover there are strong regional variations in words for household items. I travelled a lot when I lived in the UK and whilst a "sandwich" universally meant some food between two slices of bread, if the bread part was an object on its own, that might be a "roll", "bun", "bap" or heavens knows what else.

    Taking it back to motor vehicles, it becomes very difficult to translate technical information particularly when the supplier uses marketing oriented names for particular functions.. You can see this currently by thinking about the variations in names used for Anti-lock braking, Assisted brake force distribution, Stability control and the like.

    Practically, it helps to be tolerant of mis-spellings. The fact that brake is the correct spelling of the pedal you touch with your right foot to slow the car down and steer is what you do when turning that thing between your hands, does not mean that you understand the intention less well when it is spelt "break" or "stear".

    I purposely do not use the Spell checker in Edmunds because of my use of Australian English. I can live with my mis-spellings or bad typing as readily as for anyone else.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    People, don't worry so much about spelling! LOL. Just try to spell words correctly since some countries have different spellings.
  • pokeyronpokeyron Member Posts: 4
    Just bought a new '06 HL with 192 miles on it last Monday, and starting this evening, I have noticed that when I place the vehicle in park, a loud single click will emit from the shifter column. Sometimes the click does not occur until I take my foot off the brake, and then it makes the noise; other times as soon as I shift into park, I can hear it. Is this normal? My Camry certainly never did this. Any thoughts? (besides taking into the dealer asap?)
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    Does it sound like something is wrong when it makes the noise? Is it very loud or does the sound come out naturally? My Highlander occasionally makes soft unnoticeable quiet clicks but it is from the fan.
    Yours is probably normal, especally since its a new car
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    To me what you described is the normal click sound an automatic transmission makes when you shift it into park. My V6 HL certainly makes the sound under the conditions you described (different transmissions for the I4 and V6; the click is due to a pin (I think it's called the prawl) engaging to lock the transmission).
  • pokeyronpokeyron Member Posts: 4
    It doesn't sound like anything is wrong when it makes the noise, it's just that when I shift into park, I don't expect to hear anything. My wife had a Neon (before we bought the HL) and it never made the sound I am hearing when shifted into park (and as I mentioned, neither does my Camry). Maybe this is something exclusive to SUV's, as this is our first one. Forgot to mention that it is a V6.

    The click is almost like a thunk, but the sound is coming from within the shift column, not under the hood. When I place it in park, you can directly tell the noise is coming from within the shift column. When I open the door, and place it in park, then I can audibly hear the click outside of the vehicle. I went out and drove again some more this evening, and now it's not making the noise consistently, which worries me even more. Arg!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    What you are hearing, UNDOUBTEDLY, is the actuation and/or release of the 12 volt electric interlock solenoid that prevents you from shifting out of park without first applying the brakes.

    Your transmission shift lever is LOCKED into the park position and you cannot move it out of that position without having the brakes applied. The solenoid will engage anytime the shifter is in park and the brakes are applied.

    So, shift into park and release the brakes and then you will hear the "click" (thunk?) of the solenoid being de-energized.

    If you look in the owners manual you will find a section on how to manually actuate this solenoid should it fail and you not be able to shift out of park.
  • pokeyronpokeyron Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for everyone's help so far!

    wwest-That's exactly what the dealer told me this afternoon but they couldn't explain why it doesn't happen consistently. Any thoughts?
  • rugby65rugby65 Member Posts: 81
    I have an 03 v6 limited from day one it has made that noise only if you park on an unlevel spot. It doesn't make the noise as soon as I put it in to park only after I turn off the key and take my foot of the break.
    If you set the emergency break so the vehicle doesn't move you won't hear it...If you watch the gear selector when it makes the sound you will see it move a little.
    40,000 miles now and no problems so don't worry about it.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Murphy build the solenoid...??
  • pokeyronpokeyron Member Posts: 4
    wwest-Sorry, I am not sure what you are asking.

    Toyota did tell me this morning that sound could be intermittent depending if the vehicle was parked on a flat surface.
  • rblelandrbleland Member Posts: 312
    I think "rugby65" has covered it. That is how my '05 HL works. Not a problem and occurs in other vehicles as well.
  • williams10williams10 Member Posts: 6
    LOOKING for HELP: I have found myself with a slight "clunk" in the steering of my Highlander, and a warranty getting ready to expire. I have taken it to the dealer and no help, they say there is no TSB on the steering of this vehicle and can not replicate the noise..Has anyone found a TSB? I see there has been a lot of complaints from other owners..
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    Agreed. I would just add that my '04 4-cyl. makes the same noise. I remember asking about it right after we got the car in this forum.
  • mckeownmckeown Member Posts: 165
    RE: Steerling Clunk when driving and turning, NOT the Shift/Brake Solenoid.
    I replied a few pages back...took 3 trips to the dealer to get the right tech to inspect and drive it before we could get ours repaired. There is no TSB for the Highlander, just for the Camry. The first 2 techs said it was normal, the 3rd took a short ride and said he would order the parts and call us when they were in. We had 35,905 on the odometer, so I really wanted to get it covered if it was a problem and it really was.
    If you have another dealer nearby, try them also. Where I live in northern NJ, by the NY border, we have 5 dealers I can readily think of within 25 miles of our home.
  • dawneedawnee Member Posts: 59
    and all it says is "check" with a symbol. When I check the manual it just says see Toyo Dealer and also says it could be emission, malfunction of the indicator light or absolutely nothing. This vehicle has about 53,500 miles and I am wondering if these vehicles are like the Hondas that these lights come on just to make you take it to dealer for interval maint.

    Does anyone have any idea or comments? We had the oil changed last weekend, could that have something to do with it? I know if you don't get the gas cap tight, it will cause these lights to come on. So if they don't get everything tight or knock something loose when changing the oil, will this cause this indicator light to come on?

    I keep seeing mention of a FAQ area but have no idea how to get to the area, if someone knows can you post link and if you have any thoughts on what to do about this light, please advise. I have no idea if it is okay to drive the vehicle or not. Manual is very vague. :sick:
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Sounds like the check engine light. This light comes on when the HL's computer detects that there is anything wrong with the vehicle. You need to take it to the dealer or a service center to get the codes pulled (they connect a gadget to the HL's computer and it displays a 4-digit alphanumeric code; they then look up the code in the service manual which lists a description of the malfunctioning component and a troubleshooting procedure to track down the problem). Some in these forums have said that Auto Zone in some cases will pull the codes for free.
  • jrhflajrhfla Member Posts: 13
    I started this thread a while back. I had my Highlander repaired at a cost of $490. Some irony... Driving back from my Toyota dealer this morning after an oil change, I tuned my radio into NPR and Car Talk was on. Tom and Ray Magliozzi are great. Some guy was calling in to complain about a used car he bought that had a steering wheel clunk and loose play. Didn't catch the make. Tom and Ray zeroed right in on the probable cause: the steering column U-joint. They said these do wear out based on their experience. They told the caller to have his auto shop/dealer check this out now. They cautioned him that this is a serious issue as it gets worse as in unsafe. His car was at 50K and he was stuck with the repair like I was. FYI.
  • dawneedawnee Member Posts: 59
    My husband took a look under the hood and seems when Express Lube changed the oil and check the air filter they left a vacuum hose loose. So I think this is the reason for the light being on. Now my question is, can I get this light to go off w/o taking it in to a dealer and paying an $80 or more service fee??? :confuse:
  • rugby65rugby65 Member Posts: 81
    disconnect the ground battery cable and leave it off for a few minutes.......... You will have to reset your radio stations.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    my 04 Hil has a steering clunk
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Also, remember reading somewhere here that if the problem is fixed the check engine light will reset itself after a time, perhaps 2 weeks or after a set number of times the car is started up.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    Can someone please tell me how to change the oil filter without making a mess. 03 H/L. Thanks.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    (tongue in cheek) Take it to the dealer?

    Sorry..couldn't resist. I used to always change my own oil, but it got harder to do on the newer cars, and just not worth the hassle anymore, with trying to avoid the mess with the "upside down or horizontaly mounted filters", and trying capture the old oil in something easy to take to a recycler....then actually keeping the inside of the car clean while transporting that dirty oil...

    well worth the $25 price at the dealer. Just my humble opinion.
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    Valid points but I actually enjoy changing my own oil and I KNOW I do a better job than a third party will. I just pour the used oil back into the just emptied bottles with a funnel and take it to the auto parts store where I buy the new oil. Works for me.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We have curb side pickup of waste oil here. Getting the filter off is still a mess, even if the filter is vertical and visible. Some people put bread wrappers around the filter while they unscrew it, but I never had much luck with that. Disposable gloves and a supply of rags and kitty litter come in handy.

    Changing on a 7,500 mile or longer interval works for me too. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    I've also heard that punching a hole in the filter with a screw driver or whatever, relieves the pressure holding the oil in the filter and lets it drain out before you unscrew it. Can't validate that from personal experience.
  • jrhflajrhfla Member Posts: 13
    Type the word "clunk" in the Search This box above and review the thread replies for some background reading.

    I believe Toyota has a steering column assembly design issue here but I doubt there will be sufficient focus put on this problem to get a recall started.
  • chas24chas24 Member Posts: 4
    To all who are interested. The local toyota dealer replaced the shaft assembly and everything seems to be fine. I had it repaired several weeks ago, and so far no problems. Of course, your guess is as good as mine about if this will wear out again in 12-18 months and need to be repaired once more. Maybe they redesigned the part so that is no longer a concern???? :)

    Chuck
  • chas24chas24 Member Posts: 4
    Interesting.......there is a TSB for the Camry in regards to the steering U joint? Now, what are the chances that since the Camry and Highlander are on the same platform that the "U" joint is also a shared component? If so, then I would think that a TSB for the Camry would also be applicable to the Highlander?

    Chuck
  • alextaaalextaa Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me how or where to find the instructions for programming a keyless entry remote for a 2005 base Highlander V6? It seems to vary with the model year on most vehicles, and I haven't been able to find any information on the process for a 2005 model. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • brisintrepidbrisintrepid Member Posts: 21
    lookin at a set of oe 17" hybrid split 5 spoke rims for my 2004 highlander with 16"s (steel stock) anyone know if they can can just be put on with no spacers and is the lug pattern the same? thanks
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