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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • brian125,
    Thank you. You've helped many people here and hopefully i will be able to get my car soon. I will wait until inventory rises in NY.
  • Bluemkn57cars,
    Will do as you suggest and reach a few more dealers. Thank you for the great advice. Month end is approaching fast and will be ready to lock up.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,580
    edited September 2013
    Mistersc
    You are in a good position to Negotiate with many dealerships and wait til you get YOUR target price. Bluecars.... has posted first hand knowledge and real time buying experience with his purchase last month. He played the game to the T and he secured a very good deal. Read thru this board and make notes and write down all dealerships that people recommend with good pricing / no games or drama with dealerships. These are the dealerships you may want to target if they are in your driving range..

    Your advantage is you do not need to buy this month. Here is my suggestion.
    read my prior posts, 30550,30558,30575, 30642, 30660, 30682,30723, which ever one talks about contacting dealerships on line thru internet managers read and apply it... Start your negotiation process on the 2nd to last day this month ending all negotiation with meeting your price to buy the last day of sept..
    NY/ NJ is not selling like other area's.
    If you email/ call as many dealerships as your willing to travel you just may get 500 below invoice price this month. Sept ends the 3rd quarter for all car companies dealerships looking for sales numbers will deal alot cheaper than earlier in the month.
    If pricing is not where you want to go........... wait til next month.

    There is no need to step foot into any dealership unless you agree on a selling price and verify all otd charges. Sit in the comfort of your house and see what dealers are willing to meet your price. The reason buying this way works is You are putting each dealership on the spot that moment telling them i buy right now for this price. No game playing , No BS, Its Yes or No, or A Small COUNTER OFFER from that dealership. You have the buying leverage on these days.

    You have nothing to lose this month and alot to gain if you find those dealerships selling at months End..............Good luck

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • gil123gil123 Posts: 16
    edited September 2013
    Thanks again for the input.

    I've gotten several competitive quotes, hovering about $1700 below invoice for the 2013. I could probably haggle another $100-$200. It's in the range of what I'm willing to pay.

    Inventory feels low around here. I have a lot of dealerships, but it feels like most have only a handful of cars. It's hard to say since I don't know their stock, but most places mention having only 2-3 colors available (I'm agnostic on color).

    It's turning out that my end-of-month will be very busy with work. Based on all of this, do you think it's worth waiting until the end or just buying right now? If waiting saves me only $200, then it won't be worth it due to a lot of reasons. But if the wait could yield about $400, then I could wait. What do you think? I'm leaning towards pulling the trigger even though the spreadsheet geek in me wants to wait.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,580
    edited September 2013
    AT 1700 below invoice dont risk losing your model/ color. End of the month may not get you anymore off that already good price due to his limited stock.

    Post after you buy your deal with city/ dealerships name.

    Good job Gil

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Thanks for the reply. I've still got a little more work to do, but will definitely post after I get the car.
  • Gil,

    Are you getting any flex cash? Are you getting your first choice of trim and color?

    I am sure you have done your homework, and I hope you have taken into account dealer doc fees when negotiating the best deal.

    Good luck.
  • misterscmistersc Posts: 22
    edited September 2013
    Brian125,
    I'm going to take a break and start 2nd to last day of Sept. per your suggestion. Thus far, i've contacted 6 or 7 dealers without a single one even coming at invoice price and no one going below. There just isn't any inventory. I'm wasting a lot of time and one dealer was even sarcastic saying you want below invoice on 2014 and i said with a straight face, yes. He was annoying claiming he didn't know what Flex cash was and I called him out on it. He then went on to say no flex cash on 2014 models. I will research the other posts and contact the more preferred dealers but wait until end of month as it doesn't appear any ny dealer looking to negotiate on my terms at the moment. i also have my bmw to trade in which i'm sure they will look to low ball to make some money on the other side of the transaction.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,580
    edited September 2013
    Invoice price on a 2014 might be the best we could do right now in our area for Sept. You may find alot of dealers want 500 above plus. You dont know to you make the calls. This is how you determine your area's market price.. Time is on your side. keep us post in NY/ NJ area.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • rogoniterogonite Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    20625 + TTL at Norm Reeves Cerritos. Undercut Huntington Beach by $75. Honda World wanted 21,000 but went down to 20,800 after long negotiation.

    Honda World... They were scummy. Avoid. I bought a 2013 10 months before and they were fine, but man...

    Cerritos was a very straight-forward process. No haggling, lowest price in the area. I'm going to them from now on.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    mistersc - don't get discouraged - when a salesperson gets sarcastic with you,or plays dumb, it is usually because he/she is trying to gain control and portray themselves as more knowledgeable than you. You know better than this because you are arming yourself with information that will eventually allow you to gain the upper hand. Just keep plugging away, develop your buying technique based on the advice you receive here, and you will soon be able to recognize the good dealers and sales folks who want to compete for your business and ignore the not so good.

    Take care,

    Bill G
  • I received an offer for 300 per month, 2075 upfront plus DMV fee. 2013 4dr accord EX-L with no Nav. Capitol cost of 25,500.
  • I got quote for honda accord exl 2014 for $30000 OTR means everything included in this price.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited September 2013
    Can you break down your deal, by listing the following:

    Sales price including destination fee (without any incentives):
    Dealer doc fees:
    Title and registration fees:
    Dealer add-ons:
    Sales Tax (rate is fine)
    Any incentives
  • Flex cash is only available on 2013 models. You still have ten more days to go before the end of the month, so do not get discouraged at all. Do not waste your time with dealerships who play games. Their plan is to frustrate you.

    If you can negotiate anywhere between $500 to $800 below invoice the last two days of this month, then that will be a good deal. If not and you can wait, I would recommend trying again at the end of next month.

    Good luck and let us know what happens.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    With 2075 and DMV fees up front, your payment is actually around $370 per month. You need to provide an itemized breakdown of your deal before any of us can give you an opinion.

    Thanks, Bill G
  • Here are some details I just received on 2013 Accord EX-L, no nav, 4 cyl CVT:
    MSRP: $28,785
    12k, 36 months
    Residual 53%, adjusted to 55%
    Gross residual $15,831.75
    Money factor: 0.00075
    Monthly Depreciation: $346.89
    Monthly lease charge: $33.11
    original taxable base: $12,267.72
    7% NJ tax
    $858.74 tax amount

    selling price $26,349.42
    DMV $516.50
    Acq fee: $595
    Doc fee: $289
    Cap cost $28,319.66

    Only out of pocket is $380, which is the first payment.
    then $380 monthly thereafter.

    I turned it down. he quoted me a lower before, but lo and behold, it's now higher on paper. that's the best I can do. yada yada yada.

    appreciate your thoughts.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited September 2013
    Good thing you turned down this deal, because the sale price you were quoted is only $49.58 below invoice.

    That's one of the worse deals I have seen on a 2013 model at this time of the year, even on a lease.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,580
    MSRP.....................................28,785
    Selling price..........................- 26,349
    Total........................................2436 .........below invoice
    doc fee's...................................- 289

    total .......................................2147 below invoice price????

    Your sales price deal looks good to me.. Did i miss something here?

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    You might be able to get a better lease deal on a 2014 because the residual will most likely be higher which should lower your payment. But, as blue points out, that selling price needs a lot of work. I recommend switching to a 2014 and finding a dealer willing to compete for your business with a competitive price.

    Good luck,

    Bill G
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Brian - invoice is around $26.4?

    Bill
  • Bill,
    Give Brian a pass. My tee shot hit Brian in the forehead while he was at the hot dog stand.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Ha - and here I thought he was posting from the 19th hole.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,580
    See this is what happens when your in the sun to long.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I agree with Bill. You might be able to get a better deal on a 2014 model.

    Your main goal would be to focus on the sale price of the car, since the numbers used to calculate the lease (Money Factor, Residual Value and acquisition fee) are not going to change from dealer to dealer.
  • just some follow-up questions:
    Aside from the selling price of the car, the only other things I can negotiate on are fees, correct? Appreciate any advice on tactics to achieve that.

    Lastly, at the end of the day, despite all the lease calculations we are all doing, etc, aren't we really trying to lessen the amount we spend on a car over the life of the lease?
    So in this case, the deal I turned down, I would have spent a total of $13,680 ($380x36) in payments on this car. Can we look at a lease in this way? just curious.

    thanks. I'll start looking at 2014s.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Usually, the only fee that is negotiable is the dealer doc fee. Some dealers won't budge on their doc fee - if that's the case, do your best to get them to reduce the selling price to lessen the impact of the doc fee. If you can negotiate the lowest selling price possible, and receive the best lease money factor appropriate to your credit score, then the total cost of your lease will take care of itself.

    Bill
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    We got you Brian - huskerfan says that's the second mistake you've made this year. I think maybe you were just testing us.

    Bill
  • Actually, that is not a good way to look at a lease. Your monthly payment is a combination of depreciation on the vehicle and interest expense. You would lessen the total payments over the lease as you increase the amount you pay at signing since that will result in less interest but you don't want to do that. Anything you pay at signing is lost should the car be stolen or totalled in an accident so I always recommend getting 36 equal monthly payments with the amount due at signing representing the first payment. Yes, it will be a few more dollars over the life of the lease than if you made a down payment or paid fees and taxes at inception but it should be considered really cheap insurance.
    btw, I live I NJ and that DMV charge looks too high, even with new plates. I believe it's against the law to markup DMV fees in NJ but I would question the dealer.
  • I don't recall Brian making another mistake but I have to admit to some. I know of two that I made in the leasing forum but the biggest one I ever made in this forum I made earlier this week.
    After writing my piece on doc fees, I gave my protaganist an out (I won't name names) by saying I bet he's a smart guy but did not articulate well what he is actually doing, but after reading his reply, I definitely got that part regarding him being a smart guy wrong :)
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