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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • It has been 2 weeks and 511 miles since I bought the car. The mileage I am getting so far is 20.8 mpg, it was a shocker. I thought would get at least 24. All driving is in city heavy west Los Angeles traffic. I drove 7 miles on 405 today at 5:15 pm and it took about 30 - 40 minutes. For those who know LA, it was from Howard Hughes Center to Rosecrans exit. All my driving is around LAX area.

    Interested in knowing what you guys are getting. how did the EPA get 27 mpg city?
  • I have the same car newly purchased in the Dallas, TX area. In the city, I'm getting 30-31 mpg. On highway about 37-38 mpg. I love this car. After driving my 1998 Honda Accord EX-L for 16 years and 330,000+ miles, I decided to buy another one just like it. The 1998 6th generation of my car is still running fine, but wow I love this 9th generation 2014 version.

    Took it for a drive to San Antonio, TX and got the 38 mpg. Sure glad I don't have to drive in LA.
  • rihc55rihc55 Posts: 3
    The dealer stated that the invoice was $28547. Online research indicates that it is actually closer to $27.5. The dealer went as low as $26.8k including all fee's except the stuff i'd do at the DMV.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,865
    STOP!! Quit checking your gas mileage!

    OK, you are on probably your second tank of gas now. When your car arrived they probably filled up the gas tank. Then the car sat and idled for a long time while they did the pre delivery inspection. Then it got moved around the parking lot etc.

    For some reason and I've seen this time and time again, it takes several thousand miles before a new Honda will get it's best gas mileage!

    Checking it when the car isn't even broken in will yield false results.

    I'm from your neck of the woods (Rancho Palos Verdes) and given your
    driving conditions you will never get the mileage others will get.

    Relax, quit checking it and after 2000 miles, check it again.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 3,059
    edited October 2013
    I'm in the NYC area i average between 18 to 22 mpg with all the stop and go.
    Once you drive open road on a highway you should get 24mpg or better.
    I have the V-6 model Drove up to boston 2x with my Accord and averaged about 24 mpg. Gas mileage could of been better depending on how fast your driving.... A/c on............... etc.
    As your accord breaks in you will notice better gas mileage.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • 4th Honda, I had the same car! Drove it for 300,000 miles on the original transmission...then, in 07, I was mesmerized by the looks of a Nissan Maxima...very fun to drive, but we have had countless issues. About to purchase a 6V EX-L and I will probably never buy another brand of car! Your post confirmed it!
  • Rihc, where did you get that invoice price? I have seen it but can't find it again! Everywhere I look quotes the $28,573?! When I first committed to buying, I was interested in a 2013 and in my area, we just didn't have inventory to support me getting a good deal on the color I wanted, so I have a lot of numbers in my head...
  • gil123gil123 Posts: 16
    As others noted, wait until the engine breaks-in.

    If it makes you feel better, I am getting 17 mpg by driving up and down the hills from L.A. to the Valley.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 3,059
    edited October 2013
    Car manufactorers are testing these vehicles in perfect conditions, certain speed and on a straight run. i find MPG are always off from the suggested number. Hyundai just settled a law suit for lying about there mpg's on there sonatas.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • rihc55rihc55 Posts: 3
    Hmm.. i cant find it now either. I swear i didn't intentionally make it up. I wonder what i was looking at...
  • What is the problem with Edmunds' inventory search engine? I come here and do a search for 2014 Accords in Hematite Metallic. Quite a few of them appear. But when I go to the individual dealers' websites, most of them turn out to be grey. It can't be coincidence that so many dealers in my area don't know the difference between green and grey. Does anyone know how this data is uploaded into Edmunds' system?
  • gil123gil123 Posts: 16
    That's for sure!

    My mpg is close to worst-case since I drive up steep and windy inclines, run the AC, and tend to have a heavy foot on my accelerator. And it's all city. I never expect to hit those EPA numbers. My wife usually averages 10% or better mpg than I do.

    (Don't get my started on Hyundai. I have vowed to never buy one of those cars in my lifetime, ever. When was a kid, they did a terrible bait-and-switch to my mom where they not only changed prices, they gave her a different model car than she thought she was buying. That vehicle missed the lemon law threshold by merely one repair.)
  • Ok...you are buying a 6V Coupe and I am buying a 6v sedan...maybe that is the difference in invoice pricing.
  • I already own 2007 Accord EX and now in market to buy another sedan car. I have Accord in my list as well. Are there still enough 2013 Accords out there in the market place with better incentives compare to 2014 models?

    My needs are to have power controlled seats + bluetooth/touch screen for audio navigation with a good MPG. I am looking to spend upto $26K OTD (possibly want to stay close to 25K).

    Should I consider EX or EX-L? Anyone who bought their Accord recently, please share your experience and suggestions.

    How much should be OTD for EX and EX-L? I live in Dallas, TX.
  • t2882t2882 Posts: 8
    Hey guys, question for you, can anyone give any pointers on buying a cpo (certified pre-owned) accord from the dealership? Have a buddy whose heading out to a dealership this weekend and looking for 2009-2012 accord to save money and not be hit with initial depreciation costs that a new car would have. Any information regarding the negotiaton process and anything else to look for would be awesome. Thanks
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 3,059
    edited October 2013
    Have outside finance in place make dealer match or beat your best rate.
    Get several book value prices... Edmunds, kbb, Nada, Galves etc.
    Always counter dealers lowest offer and tell him your going to consider it but your looking at 2 other cars that day.

    Negotiate again by phone the next day or in a few days with a low ball price to see if dealer will bite or meet a price your willing to pay. Tell dealer you narrowed it down to 2 cars and best price gets your business. You will buy that day. You want to get to his bottom line price......... thats the game.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    To get navigation, you'll need to go EXL. A 2014 cvt EXL with navigation has an invoice price of around 28,500. Current deals have been around 500 below invoice. Recommend you reevaluate your target price - I don't think you will get anywhere close to 26000 out the door on a 2013 or 2014.

    Bill G
  • My bad that I have confused you with my wording "audio navigation"..... I don't need Navigation (GPS) technology in a new vehicle. I think touch screen audio/apps navigation is sufficient for my needs.

    Can I get a new Accord under $26K with all things I need?
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Oops - sorry bout that. Invoice on the LX is around 21,600 and the EX is around 24,300. You can research the feature differences on this site to see what meets your needs. Depending on your location's TTL, you might get the EX to 26000 out the door - the LX should be easily under 24000 out the door. There still might be a few 2013s around if you're not choosy on the color that you could get a killer deal on.

    Bill
  • t2882t2882 Posts: 8
    brian,

    So should the first step be to test drive all the vehicles my buddys interested in and then proceed with the negotiation away from the dealership (via phone/email)? My buddy stresses the importance for him to try out any of the cars before he even thinks about purchasing. Should we also not give the dealer any hints on what exact model we are looking for?

    I have seen a few accords all sitting in one dealership that he is interested in, should we "pretend" we are going to other dealerships in the area to see other cars?

    Thanks
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 3,059
    edited October 2013
    Yes.... Hit 3 or 4 dealerships for a test drive and narrow down what cars you may want. Try to negotiate at each dealership with pricing first.. If you feel price is to high do as i recommended the next day or couple later with a follow up phone / email. Some dealership will be up front with price and some will play games.... Weed out those dealerships. Same concept applies Supply and demand will determine a good price or a take it or leave it price from dealerships. Honda Accord is a very good resale vehicle.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • how much below MSRP and how much below Invoice (before TTL) is considered to be a killer deal on 2013 Accords?

    I am not picky about color, so I am flexible on that.

    Thanks!
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 3,059
    edited October 2013
    2k below invoice is a killer deal. You should be getting at least 1500 to 1700 below invoice plus taxes at this time anyway.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    If you are able to locate a 2013 EX, i would aim for 1500-2000 below invoice (2013 invoice is about 200 less than the 2014 prices I gave you). The 2013s still have 1.9% for 60 months and dealers might still have $500 dealer cash incentive if you finance with Honda. If you can't get at least 1500 below invoice on a 2013, you might as well go for the 2014, although the deals on those aren't as sweet yet.

    Bill
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    What is a good price for a 2014 EXL before TTL......can I expect $25,500 area on the lower end?

    So basically now the world has moved on and "invoice" numbers aren't real anymore since generally you can sell at $500-1500 BELOW invoice????

    Haven't bought a car in almost 4 years and I know the internet continues to pressure changes....
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Maybe Brian can chime in but invoice on a 2014 EXL CVT is around 26,600 and recent pricing has been around 500 below invoice. We might see deals get better in Dec.

    Bill G
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    So this would be around 26K, but that would be before $500 off financing cash back (if they gave that to me)

    How much better do you think it gets if I wait till Thanksgiving time or early December? I guess I'm not in a huge rush, but I also don't want to keep waiting months and months just to save $100.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 3,059
    Agreed. If you could hold out til end of Dec you may be able to get a better deal than right now on a 2014 which a good price seems to be at 500 below dealers invoice. Supply and demand and your area will be factors in getting a lower price. You would need to get 10 to 15 dealerships involved to see who is willing to sell at that price.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • cl171cl171 Posts: 6
    email me at sn1617@gmail.com - I'll show you a clip of my sales invoice.

    contact gary @ boch
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited October 2013
    Hi Brian - I went back to read some of your suggested posts but I'm still not clear as to your recommended strategy. I get the part about trying to buy in the last few days of the month - that was clear.

    When I bought my Odyssey in 2010, I called numerous Honda dealers here in Chicago, then worked those that seemed most aggressive to find a low price at which others just said No. I felt I got a great price vs invoice (although now I see that invoice these days is probably inflated) and also vs other prices being posted on this board. I called it the Hogan Method.

    Can you clarify something in the "Brian Method"? AM I SUPPOSED TO APPROACH THESE DEALERS WITH A NUMBER MYSELF FIRST? That isn't what I did on the Odyssey, well not at first at least. I found the couple lowest quotes, then went back to those that were higher and "stretched them" to see if they would leapfrog, by throwing out a LOWER number than my lowest current bid. I'd play naive like "hey Dealer 5, you said your lowest was $31,000, and I just wanted to tell you that I have another verbal offer at $30,650 and I'm gonna head over there this afternoon. Hopefully they don't pull some trick, but otherwise I'll be buying the car for that price it looks like"

    My thought was that it would be like catnip if a dealer actually COULD BEAT the 30,650 then it would be in his best interest to jump right there and say "don't go to that other dealer....if you come to me I'll beat that offer" since it would appear to him that this was his last chance because in 3 hours I'd have signed papers at a competitor. The gray area was my stretching the truth by a few hundred dollars below the lowest bid I had received on round one. Lie? I guess yes. But I felt I had nothing to lose since I still had the lowest bid as my backstop, so if I tested the waters of some of the higher dealers to see if any react to beat that price, then I'd know I hadn't found bottom yet.

    So basically my strategy was to ASK FOR QUOTES first, lay them out, see what the lowest was and if there was any clustering, set aside the one or two lowest dealers (don't dick around with them at this point since you were most likely to need them) and go back to the others with the "thanks for your time, just wanted to let you know I found the following price which I'm planning to buy, and I guess I'll catch you in 5 years when I buy my next car...."

    So then what is the BRIAN METHOD? Do you go into the sales managers/internet sales and just throw out a NUMBER yourself and say "if you can hit it, I will buy right now?" If so, I assume you are using a number that is sufficiently low so that you don't expect any will actually hit it? (but not SO low as to make it look like you have no idea what you're talking about). So if my EX-L car is 26,650 invoice, and we "think" that they are selling for 500 below invoice today, would I go in saying I will buy today for $25,500 if they can hit it? Or 25,000? Or 26,000?

    I'm trying to think of the difference between the Brian Method and the Hogan Method so I can make a change if necessary. The Brian Method (again if I understand it) is to lead them with a number just low enough to draw them to a low bid, but not so low as to lose cred and not so high that you are leaving money on the table. The Hogan Method makes them believe that I am indeed about to buy from another dealer, meaning A) I am indeed a REAL BUYER TODAY and B) some other dealer actually gave me that number, and I'm not just making it up (although I guess I am).

    I guess both methods may be very similar actually. Just depends if you take a first round of getting their quotes to see who is an aggressive dealer, or whether you throw down a number and see if anyone will hit it. Going in with your own number requires you to have a view as to the actual selling prices in your area, which could be harder to know unless you solicited the quotes first right? (unless you can really get enough good info through this site about recent EXL sales for example)

    So sorry for the long post but can you just quickly confirm the key points of the Brian Method so I know how to use it? Thanks
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