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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,441
    edited October 2013
    biggus

    I think blue answered your questions. what i will add to his posts are:

    If you could get invoice price on a 2014 model and only get 1000 below on a 2013 coupe model buy the 2014 model. Get pricing for both models.

    Be firm on 1500 below invoice for the 2013 coupe. I understand its a supply and demand model but it is also 11 months into 2013. If your 2013 gets stolen or totaled in a accident next year is where you stand to lose the most money. As of jan,1st 2014 your 2013 model is considered 1 year old vehicle. Your INS. deductible 500/1000 comes off the top of that check they send you................... take this into consideration.

    There is no right or wrong way to go just common sense and judgment

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I agree! In my case, my trade-in was headed to the auction, so they didn't really want it...well cared for but with high miles and some electrical issues. I would think the Honda dealership would love to have your car for its used car sales lot...
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    We shall see....

    I started the ball rolling by pinging 2 dealers through their websites.....got back 2 quotes within 30 mins. Neither are crazy great but I guess not too bad....I need to get some more quotes first to see.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    An initial internet quote I got was 28,300 less the flexcash, so I know I still have some room.

    Capegirl-
    Are you going to just pay down the loan (ie did you finance it just to get the 500 flexcash or do you want to hold the loan for 36 months at 3.19%?)
  • I tried for days to get a deal on a 2013 through 4 dealers. The best I could do was around $500 less than a 14 OTD! I was set on the 13 thinking I could save some money. I was looking for at least 2K. They pushed the 13 hard and I got baited on color and v6 minus diff on 2014 i4. It was games I wasn't playing. I could not get any deal on the 13 around here.

    YMMV
  • One of the lessons I learned while searching for a new Accord was to start my car search early and do a lot of research first.

    It took me months of researching and reading various forums before I was able to strike a deal I was happy with. When I came across sales guys who did a bait and switch on me, I just walked out of their dealerships and vowed never to do business with them or recommend anyone.

    At the end, it paid off for me since I was able to get the color combination I wanted at the price I wanted to pay.
  • biggus1biggus1 Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    bluemkn57cars and brian125: Thanks for the input. The geography consideration is a good one. Based on the data, it doesn't look like dealers are selling 2013s at $1500 below invoice around here OR cutting great deals on the 2014s, so I'd be curious if you still think I should stick to those guns. Maybe it would help if I gave you a bit more data on both the 2013 and 2014 models, and you guys can tell me what your gut says?

    For 2013 on the V6 coupe, invoice is $28,546, and the TrueCar estimate around here is about $200 less, which of course means that I'm at $500 under invoice coming out of the gate. Looking at their individual sales data, the cheapest sold was 1 at $1200 under invoice, 2 at $900 under invoice, 3 at $650 under invoice, and 1 at $350 under invoice. All the other sales data are at or above invoice.

    For 2014 on the V6 coupe, invoice is $28,798, and the TrueCar estimate is $1100 above invoice. The individual data shows all sales at or above invoice.

    Does that change things at all in your estimation? I know you can get the best deal by scouring across dealerships in a broader geographic area, but I'm more inclined to visit one of the two dealerships I've purchased vehicles from before (which, coincidentally, are the TrueCar dealerships) and make a take-it-or-leave-it offer. Since $1200 under invoice appears to be as low as they've gone, would you revise your bottom-line price? For what it's worth, both of them have only a few 2013 EX-V6s left on their lots, and I'd probably just go down there on the 31st.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited October 2013
    Where are you located?
    You mentioned that you only planned to visit 1 or 2 dealerships. If that is the case, then do not be surprised if you are not able to get the best deal even if it is at the end of the month.

    Here is my advice. First of all, DO NOT rely on truecar.com for the average price paid on that car in your area. I have only used truecar.com to obtain invoice prices on cars and look up any incentives.

    Second of all, here are some things to think about:
    1. Do you need a car right now?
    2. Do dealers have the car in the color combination you want? (Visit those 2 dealerships asap to find out)
    3. Do you want any accessories added to the car?
    4. Have you asked for internet quotes for the 2013 and 2014 models from dealerships?
    5. The difference in invoice price is only $251, and it is nearly the end of October so take into account the depreciation of the car if you decide to buy a 2013 model.
    6. Do you have your own financing? If not, if you finance through Honda the rate is 0.9 % for up to 60 months on the 2013 Accord coupe.
    7. Do not forget to ask dealers about Flex cash.
    8. I would start by visiting/contacting dealers early next week (Monday) to find out all the info you need in order to make a deal at the end of the month.
    9. Brian always says to make your best deal the last two days of the month. I do agree with that.
    10. If you are going to pull the trigger on the 31st, you need to tell dealers that you will buy today for say $1500 below invoice (for a 2013 model) before any incentives to put them on the spot. If they want your business, they will give you a counter offer.

    At the end of the day, you are going to have to decide whether you want to buy a 2013 or 2014 model in the color combination you want and at the price you want.

    DO NOT allow any dealers to play games with you or pull a bait a switch on you. If you feel your time is being wasted at a dealership, politely inform your sales person and if they are still not attending to your needs just walk out.

    *BTW, you do not have to provide answers to all those questions in this post, but you need to ask yourselves those questions (if you have not already done so).

    Good luck and let us know how things go.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    I am starting to get some quotes but it looks like I will miss Oct 31 in terms of when I'm ready to "make my best deal" as you say. Will probably keep working in early November to assemble the quotes, as it would seem a bit weird to tell the dealers "sorry, I need to go underground for 28 days until my next window where I will bash you up and make my best deal.

    I can't imagine the delta between a lowest price negotiated through leverage on 10+ dealers on the 10th of a month is THAT MUCH higher than on the last day of the month? $100? I mean if you are already at a level which is close to breakeven for the dealer, if you've done well in negotiating, then I can't imagine a dealer is gonna drop $750 on that last day just to get one more unit sold.....the volume incentives can't be that progressive I wouldn't think to incentivize them to lose big money just to sell 1 car. But maybe I'm wrong
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,441
    edited October 2013
    Good observation in most cases a handful of dealerships may be a couple of hundred off your target price and many will be 600 or more off that price on the 10th of the month.

    In my humble buying years.... 40............... of them i have learned not to waste my time trying to get my price til months end. you may get lucky on price before the end but majority best price, less, stress and b.s. at the end of the month. most of your e-price quotes and internet quotes are usually close in price unless your telling dealers your buying that moment.

    Knowing how and when to buy is the key to getting good deal.
    bringing in several dealerships into the mix
    knowing your area pricing
    being prepared to buy that moment

    One comment to last poster on True car pricing. Do not Assume everyone is a good negotiator maybe thats why 1000 below is the best price on that site.

    You take a guy like me and i'm getting that 1500 to 2000 below on a coupe. If you dont try for your target price you will never know. Hope your that guy too.

    Never rely on any one else for pricing.

    Dealerships that are several cars short of hitting there sales incentives by months end will sell that vehicle at a much lower price to get to his mark.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • When I stumbled over truecar.com I thought that was the best idea ever...until I read this forum and learned the real deal. I used it as a data point, but ended up hundreds less than that site for my 2013 EXL I purchased in August. I don't believe much on that site about the prices sold. Now my stomach turns as I see actual commercials for truecar.com.

    Now I say this site is the best idea ever. Luckily for me, Blue was purchasing the same car in the same neighborhood at the same time and I was able to compare notes and ended up with a very similar deal.

    You can keep negotiating or say you have to take a week or two off for work/family reasons. I think there is something to the end of the month but I had to start negotiating about mid-month to be able to close the deal at the end of the month. And actually for me, since they had to find my color choice, though I purchased the car on 8/30 it didn't count in the dealer's sales for August since there was no VIN and the final purchase date was in September. They knew that and it didn't affect the negotiations.

    Thanksgiving is late this year...i wonder if that will mean a slower monthend in Nov and maybe more apt to deal especially if people think if they can just last until December they will get even better deals as it's the year-end.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,441
    edited October 2013
    dealers will try to wrap up deals sooner with the turkey-day being later this year.. For the guys/ girls buying at the End may be very fruitful this Nov with all the early holiday travel and less sales. Dec especially at the end is what i call the superbowl of car buying. Last quarter for car companies last chance for many dealerships to pick up there sales numbers and incentives and what ever hidden deals they have with the manufactorer. LOVE........... DEC.

    I dont know if you guys remember but last dec we had several buyers getting the new Accord for 1000 below invoice. It took most area's selling that low may or june. I tried in Jan and couldn't get that price. I tried in Feb came close but settled for 775 below invoice from a local dealer near me for the V-6 accord.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • What's the second best time to buy? I've read President's Day was a good time, but I was surprised how August seemed to be such a great time to buy 2013's and I almost held out thinking the longer I wait to buy a 2013 the lower the price will go and it's like the opposite happened. Once the 2014's hit the dealerships in Sept, seemed like the 2013's went up in price based on reading how folks on the forum are not getting good deals on the remaining 2013s. This has all been quite the education.
  • I started to get serious about a new car in Sept. this year and Honda was running its great finance incentives...0.9% rate on the 2013Accords. By the time I had test driven and researched the difference in trim levels and knew what I wanted, the inventory was low. I couldn't find my car locally. By early October, I made the decision to buy a 2014...I purchased my Ex-L V6 Sedan this week. To my point, if I had been happy with any color and any trim level, I could've gotten a great deal this month. Instead, I got a good deal on what I wanted. That is good enough for me! Having said all of that, I think Labor Day weekend is a good time to buy a current year car...
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,441
    Yes............ President and labor day are good times to buy. You will find some good deals on certain models. I always find if you do your homework and research and give your self 1 or 2 months time to buy your chances of getting the lowest price will be favorable. I have negotiate with dealerships for 2 months finally wearing them down to giving me my offer price or close to it. If you email and call 20 or more dealerships there are always 5 or 6 that continue to call and email you thru the month.. At that time is when you keep negotiating with them letting each dealer know meet me at xxx price and i will give you my business today.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • onetwo3onetwo3 Posts: 5
    edited October 2013
    Our purchase decision is down to the EX CVT or another. Right now, Honda has the edge.

    We're most interested in the very best pricing we can get for the car, with buying sometime between now and the spring. Some posts suggest that $1000 below MSRP can be had, which would put us in the mid 22,000 range. There are about 4 colors we could be happy with, so color isn't a big factor.

    December sounds best. If looking to close a deal at the end of December, when would you start contacting dealer internet departments by email? Now? December? Somewhere in between? It sounds like sometimes it simply takes a while to get the negotiations to get as low as they're going to go.

    We're in the Twin Cities area, if that matters. Several dealers to choose from, and a few more within a 100 mile drive that we'd be willing to go to.

    I bought our last car (2006 Ody) by asking for quotes online, and found it to be a very smooth process. I'm completely comfortable with it, just looking for suggestions as to how to get that price into the 22,000-range at year end (assuming that's the best time to buy).

    Oh, and if the dealers ask you to call, is there a benefit to that? I dealt 100% by email last time.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,441
    edited October 2013
    Start Emailing and calls to dealerships Dec, 20th telling each dealer the model, color and any options/ accessories you want.

    Tell each dealership... You have contacted 20 dealerships and the first dealership willing to meet your price of XXX gets your business today or at months end. let the next 9 days play out and make your best deal at the end if you have not reached your targeted price before that day..

    If your going to spend your hard earned money on a 2014 model make sure you get the color you want and not a 2nd or 3rd choice. You deserve it.

    If you want no accessories added to your vehicle you tell dealer just that.. If dealer cant meet your request then you buy elsewhere...

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    I'm getting some good quotes on v6 EXL . Many of the best include some form of flex cash. All the dealers are OF COURSE saying that the flex cash can run out ANY MINUTE and certainly by the 31st.

    I have challenged many as to why Honda won't give them a new allocation of flex cash in November as I don't see why November will all of a sudden require LESS promotion to push cars! They all hemm and haw and say Bill clintonesque things like WE DONT KNOW WHETHER HONDA WILL CONTINUE that program. I know they always want to apply pressure but aren't I correct in assuming that if I can get the car today for X, chances are I'll be able to get the same deal on November 5 because honda will bring back the flex cash?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,441
    edited October 2013
    Honda simply refuses to give in to a 500 dollar rebate for the sale of there vehicle.. Flex cash on 2014's........... If thats the case find multiple dealerships that will offer it a finance a portion of the car thru honda to get this incentive. Some dealers have flex some dont.. Who knows maybe some dealerships are just lying and wont tell us they have flex cash.. The 2014 model Accord has come out the gate selling alot lower than the 2013 were. 2nd year production.

    This year might be when honda gives up that 500 rebate. Maybe Honda has a goal of selling more Accords thru 2014 and sticking it to Toyota , Ford and Nissan.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • You did not say whether you were looking to buy a 2013 or 2014 model.

    If you were looking to buy a 2013 model, I would recommend starting your search in early December so that you can pinpoint dealerships that have the color/combo you want with the accessories you want.

    On the other hand, if you were looking to purchase a 2014 model, my best advice would be to figure out what the market price of the car is in your area come December. There is a ton of good advice in this forum.

    Feel free to read some of my previous posts on how to go about negotiating a car deal. You should always be willing to walk away if you feel you are getting screwed. Some sales guys like to entice you to come into their dealership only to do a bait and switch.

    I have been reading some posts on this forum and I do not understand why some would buy a car in a color/combo they did not want just because they are saving a few hundred dollars.

    Good luck.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [[[[Honda simply refuses to give in to a 500 dollar rebate for the sale of there vehicle.. Flex cash on 2014's........... If thats the case find multiple dealerships that will offer it a finance a portion of the car thru honda to get this incentive. Some dealers have flex some dont.. Who knows maybe some dealerships are just lying and wont tell us they have flex cash.. The 2014 model Accord has come out the gate selling alot lower than the 2013 were. 2nd year production.

    This year might be when honda gives up that 500 rebate. Maybe Honda has a goal of selling more Accords thru 2014 and sticking it to Toyota , Ford and Nissan.]]]]]

    Brian - per your above message....it appears many dealers do have flexcash and on the internet side, many of them quote it that way initially without telling you specifically, so they can get the lowest OTD price and stay in the game. I assume that when you get to the dealer they "clarify" that getting that money requires you to finance the vehicle thru Honda, and they just assumed you'd be doing that. I'll just finance a small amount (one place said $5000 and the other $7500) and then can pay it off a month or so later.

    The point of my post was to clarify (maybe IsellHondas knows) my SUSPICION that I shouldn't feel pressured by the dealers who are all using this flexcash angle as some sort of exploding number on Oct 31. Because of travel I won't be able to get this all done, including showing my trade in to a couple dealers, by 10/31. The dealers are all saying "WE DON'T KNOW IF HONDA WILL RE-UP THE FLEXCASH PROMO IN NOVEMBER". I have told them that even though they might be right that the flexcash "expires" Oct 31, I would personally be VERY SURPRISED if Honda didn't re-up with a similar promo in November. I mean what will have changed in the marketplace that all of the sudden means the Accords will start flying off the lots faster than in October and Honda can stop putting promo money behind them?
  • The dealer that I bought from did not tell me Bout the flex cash incentive until we had settled on an OTD price. The flex cash was contingent on my financing with Honda. I negotiated a rate with them that matched what my bank had given me. In other words, the Flex cash comes from the finance side. If I were a bettin' girl, I would bet the incentive is around next month. The economy is not good for dealerships trying to sell new cars.
  • Am I making a mistake looking for a '13 sport or should I be looking at the '14 models?
    The best offer we have so far is 22012 for a new '13 sport (automatic).

    (unfortunately, we have a trade in of a 2007 2 door civic w 81k miles which we have not notified the dealer of yet).
  • The invoice price for the 2013 Sports automatic is $22,929 (price includes destination fee). Your offer is about $900 below invoice. I would say that is not such a great deal at this time of the year.

    Have you asked and received a quote for a 2014 model?

    There is some great advice in recent posts with information on how to handle a trade in while buying a new car.

    Good luck.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [[The dealer that I bought from did not tell me Bout the flex cash incentive until we had settled on an OTD price. The flex cash was contingent on my financing with Honda. I negotiated a rate with them that matched what my bank had given me. In other words, the Flex cash comes from the finance side. If I were a bettin' girl, I would bet the incentive is around next month. The economy is not good for dealerships trying to sell new cars. ]]

    Yeah that's what I'm betting too.....or maybe even gets better......the only thing I will lose is the Brian125 mantra of "make your best deal in the final day of the month" but in this case I can't physically get it all done by Oct 31. I think I'm pretty low on some quotes already....pretty close to that true target price....so only thing I'll miss is if there is some crazy reason why a dealer would knock another $500 off the price at month end just to get one more unit sold...not sure how often that is really the case. Also not sure I want to just fold up the process and wait another whole month :)
  • Thanks Bluemkn57

    How much lower than invoice should I be looking at? I am waiting for the best price(s), then will negotiate from there.

    I saw the trade in threads. Will consider the '14 models too.

    Thanks for the input!
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Don't buy a 2013 unless you're getting fairly compensated for doing so. A few hundred bucks off isn't fair compensation. If you go to sell it in 4 years, the price differential could be $2000 different, same mileage....
  • Got it - so looking for like 2k less than invoice
    thx
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [[Got it - so looking for like 2k less than invoice]]

    Yeah but I'll bet you'll find that a lot of dealers wont do that deal. I have dealers quoting me a 2013 for the same price as a 2014, or maybe 200 or 300 dollars less is the lowest they will go.

    I think they're waiting on that uninformed buyer who will a) not know how much a 2014 actually sells for and b) doesn't think about the implications for buying an "old" car
  • I think they're waiting on that uninformed buyer who will a) not know how much a 2014 actually sells for and b) doesn't think about the implications for buying an "old" car

    You are right on that. Supply and demand also has something to do with pricing.

    I would say to even consider looking at a 2013 model, you should be getting quotes for at least $1500 below invoice plus an additional $500 Flex cash towards your down payment, if you plan to finance through Honda.
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