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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited November 2013
    Welcome to the Forum.

    Let me try and break down the pricing on 2013 and 2014 models for the Accord EX.

    The MSRP for the 2013 Accord EX CVT is $26,195 (including destination fee). Invoice price is $24,037 (including destination fee). If you are considering buying a 2013 model, the price needs to be at least $1500 below invoice before any incentives for it to be a decent deal. Given the supply and demand of the 2013 models, I am yet to see or hear anyone get $2000 below invoice before any incentives. That would be a great deal.

    With regards to the 2014 model, the MSRP is $26,470 (including destination fee). Its invoice price is $24,288 (about $251 more than the 2013 model). Hence, the dealer price of $24,000 you were quoted is not such a great deal if it includes the destination fee. If that price does not include the destination fee, I would recommend walking away from this offer since you would be paying more than $500 above invoice price.

    With regards to the lifetime engine warranty being offered, you need to ask the dealer whether it is free or if there is a fee associated with it (make sure to ask about any fine print). If you do not receive an answer that makes sense, move on to the next dealer. Honda offers a 3 year/36,000 mile new vehicle limited warranty. You can read more about Honda's warranty here: http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-sedan/warranty.aspx.

    Before proceeding with your car search, you need to ask yourself these questions:

    1. How soon do you want to buy a car? Do you need one asap?
    2. Do you care about the exterior and interior color?
    3. Are you planning to finance through Honda?
    4. Have you reached out to more dealerships for internet quotes?
    5. Do you plan to trade in a car?

    When requesting internet quotes from dealers, here is the info you should be requesting:

    1. Sale price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any dealer add-ons or incentives)
    2. Dealer documentation fees
    3. Registration fee
    4. Cost of any dealer add-ons (if you plan to purchase accessories)
    5. Incentives (You mentioned $500 recent grad and $500 flex cash)

    Make sure when dealers quote you the sale price of the car it includes the destination fee BUT does not include any incentives. If you are not sure, make sure to ask them to clarify. It will help you determine whether you are getting a good deal. If you plan to buy a 2014 model, $500 to $1000 below invoice is a good deal at this time of the year.

    Read up on some of my previous posts for more info. Good luck and let us know how things go.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    I'm not so sure your Prelude would get smoked by a V-6. Once you hit 5000 RPM and that Vtec kicks in those things would SCREAM!

    As far as tickets, how about NINE in one year including three in the same week. Two of those three were on the same day by the same cop.

    Nothing I'm proud of. Funny now but not then and, no, somehow, my Ins. Co. never found out.

    No tickets now since I was about 25. had to finally grow up (?)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    Don't pay attention to my username. I retired three years ago but still keep my head poked in the door.

    I would place zero value on that "lifetime" engine warranty. Read the fine print and the exclusions.

    You also have to follow a strict maintenance program and have ALL of your services done at that store.

    Nothing is ever "free".
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    The life of a car battery has nothing to do with the quality of the car in which it's installed. It's the quality of the BATTERY that is in question.

    I used to tell my customers to replace the battery after five years. They usually last at least that long. My next door neighbor made it to TEN years on the 1996 Accord I sold them.

    I figure it's best to replace the battery on MY terms than to get stranded somewhere or have my wife get stranded.

    Five years is enough!
  • Five Years for one battery is acceptable. But 2 dead batteries in 6 years and
    vehicle running on 3rd battery is acceptable?

    I know you sell your Hondas, so as a seller I am sure as a seller it's difficult to admit any issues with a product you sell but as a buyer any bad part sold by the manufacturer factors into overall quality issue of a product. Honda recently compensated me for the battery issue I experienced with my Accord. If a manufacture does not take a responsibility of any third party parts installed on their product, then why should they install in the first place?

    I think you took my post in a wrong sense :) My goal was to suggest Altima to OP as one of the buying option to consider while searching for a new sedan vehicle, and I shared my personal experience with Accord.

    Cheers!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    Actually I retired three years ago after being in the same Honda store for nearly 14 years. I do not have a dog in the fight wnd even when I did, I never blindly defended Honda. I always tried to be forthcoming and objective as the veterans here will (I hope) agree.

    No, two dead batteries in 6 years isn't acceptable UNLESS you live in an extreme climate. In Phoenix or Fairbanks, the extreme heat is murder on ANY car battery.

    When I worked managing a huge Auto Center for Sears years ago, the batteries we sold usually outlasted the warranty period but not always.

    That is why we warranteed them, same as a car manufacturer will.

    Again, not the car's fault and that's what I thought you were trying to imply.

    Your experience I have to say was unusual unless you live in an extreme climate where three years will destroy the best of batteries.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited June 2013
    My Odyssey battery was getting weak after only 3.5 years so I replaced it with a Costco. From what I understand, OEM Honda batteries often only last 3-4 years.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    " Honda batteries often only last 3-4 years"

    That's true and sometimes (my neighbor) they can last ten.

    Odysseys have a lot of electrical demands and depending on climate 3-4 years can do them in.

    Actually I believe there are only three battery manufactures in the US anymore. they all private brand so there is a good chance that that Costco battery came out of the same factory that the Honda one did.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    OK veterans.....so I've gone through my 20 dealers, I've got probably 4-6 who seem reasonable to work with and are throwing around pretty low prices. Each one is professing to want to "do whatever it takes to earn my business" and "we won't be undersold" and all that. SOOOO, what is the best strategy from here to the final sale? BTW I have done lots of talking to them about my trade in price and have basically determined that I should just sell the car on Craigslist. I have trouble believing there is much risk of me NOT being able to sell at least at the prices they are offering, and probably much more. So that makes the Honda buying process more simple...all about the price. So where to go for the final push? I can think of two ideas.....

    1) Tell all of them that there are a number of different dealers who all seem to want this business, and while I appreciate everyone's time thus far, I can't buy a car from each of them. So to BE FAIR I would like a BEST AND FINAL number from each dealer, and I will decide from there. There will be no more "callbacks" and I will buy a car from the winner.

    2) Call one at a time and throw out a number that is BELOW the lowest current quote (but how much??) and tell them "I have 8 dealers on my list.....you are the first (can tell each of them that)....I will give you a credit card for the deposit right now if you agree to $XYZ price, but I need to know in [5] minutes otherwise I will call the next guy down the list.

    1 or 2? Or something different. On #1 you know you still have some "out" as you WILL get a lowest number by definition. But it might not be THE lowest number if all the dealers don't truly give you a lowest number because they assume you are still in bidding mode regardless of what you promise. And they don't want to get into round after round of this junk.

    The nice thing about 2 is it puts a real live credit card hunk of meat right in front of the tiger. The tiger has to choose whether he just wants to eat the steak or if he doesn't, the steak will be removed from his plate in 5 minutes..... It COULD be the best way to really stretch them on price. BUT, the issue I see is you have to decide on a number that means you're not leaving too much on the table, but if you throw out an offer too low, you will have the embarrassing prospect of making it all the way through your list and have all NOs. Then you call back the dealer sheepishly and say "well I guess nobody wanted to sell at that price....so how about...." That could be weird.

    Any other ideas? How about a hybrid (as I think out loud...) "Ok Mr Dealer, I have a list of 8 people who all want to sell me the car. I will buy it for [$XYZ right now] and if you can hit that I will give you my credit card. If you can't hit that, then please give me your best and final offer, but know that you are the first one I'm calling and I will make the same offer to 7 other dealers. I'm being nice by giving you the first shot, but if you choose to give me a higher bid then of course that still might work, but there will be no "callbacks" and I will decide on the lowest price (unless of course one of the other 7 dealers chooses to accept my offer now. I need to know in [5? 10?] minutes."
  • Can you list some of the quotes you have received so far?

    I will let Brian and other veterans chime in.
  • Hogan, you have TWELVE dealers that have your car....??? Do you have a # in your head, based on what you've learned here and other research, that you are willing to pay and not one dime more? I think that is really important at this stage of the game...and it is a game! I would offer a few a low number and see what happens, but that is just me. I would offer $700-800 below invoice and see if they bite? You still have 10 to deal with...
  • This is my first post here, as it looks like there is some good feedback on pricing and what is/isn't a good deal. We are supposed to be closing the deal on purchasing a 2014 Honda Accord EX-L CVT with navigation in the morning but I was hoping for confirmation that the deal is a good one or helpful feedback on why it isn't. I would like to follow the guidelines for how the pricing should be posted but the dealer lumped the car price, destination fee and the pro-package (wheel locks, mud guards, trunk cargo mat) and remote start with one transmitter together before applying what appears to be an ~8.25% discount to all so hopefully the following will be close enough:

    MSRP with nav: $30,835 (includes $790 destination fee)
    Pro-Pack and Remote Start: $1170
    Less Discount: $2640
    Subtotal: $29,365
    _____

    Tax: $880.95
    Doc Fee: $398
    Tag: $74

    Based on the above, our out the door cost should be ~$30,717.95; however, we negotiated a total out the door cost of $30k, even. I'm also contemplating asking them to remove the pro-pack as I don't care about it, which would take another ~$360 off the price.

    I've run the numbers a few ways and it appears to be a good deal but I can't help but wonder if I'm missing something obvious. Any feedback would be appreciated.

    Thank you.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,432
    I'd like to comment on this post but i'm having trouble with getting this models invoice price w dest charge included.. Trouble all day thru AOL

    Can someone help out here..

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • @Brian125

    Thanks for the quick reply. If my research is correct, the invoice on the base ex-l is $25,860; invoice on navigation is $1619 and destination is $790. I couldn't find an invoice price on the remote start; although honda prices the fob at $399 and the dealer wants a total of $811 for fob + install.
  • Of these 4-6 dealers that are willing to play ball...
    1) Which ones have the vehicle you want on their lot?
    2) How far apart are they on price? Would you feel satisfied with that price if you were to stop negotiating today?
    3) How far are they from you? 20 minute drive? 2 hour drive? Your time (spent traveling and negotiating) is worth something, isn't it?

    If it were me, I would send an email to each with a reasonable target price. The first (or nearest) dealer who can meet or beat that price gets your business. Don't tease the tigers too much or you might be stuck at home by yourself with no car holding your meat. :D
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,432
    edited November 2013
    handtobx

    sorry i'm having internet trouble tonight. i cant confirm pricing . What i will say is do you really want pro pack and remote start. They are both over priced from the dealer. If you are buying a 2014 model and spending 30k you buy the make model and options you want...... Not throw in accessories that are overpriced. Over charging for remote start then giving you only one transmitter is bs my friend.

    Online accessories from College hills honda and Cheap honda parts are as follows check out site for pricing.

    Mudguards...........................67
    wheel locks..........................36
    truck mat.............................90

    $ 28,269 is invoice price w/ nav for your model with out accessories. if my price is correct your deal is not a good one. plus dealer has a doc fee of 398.
    I dont like this deal at all.

    Walk away or make a deal to knock off another 500 to 600 dollars. OR buy the model you want w options.

    In addition to knocking off more money. Does this dealer have the 500 flex cash to offer that you would qualify for financing thru honda.

    please double check my invoice price on edmunds i cant get pricing thru web site tonight to confirm.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [[[[[Of these 4-6 dealers that are willing to play ball...
    1) Which ones have the vehicle you want on their lot?
    2) How far apart are they on price? Would you feel satisfied with that price if you were to stop negotiating today?
    3) How far are they from you? 20 minute drive? 2 hour drive? Your time (spent traveling and negotiating) is worth something, isn't it?

    If it were me, I would send an email to each with a reasonable target price. The first (or nearest) dealer who can meet or beat that price gets your business. Don't tease the tigers too much or you might be stuck at home by yourself with no car holding your meat.]]]]]

    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    look, realistically for any of us willing to drop 30 grand for a new car, whether I get the price to 27,199 or 27,499 or 27,799 doesn't REALLY matter, right? It becomes just a bit of a challenge to see what low price you can nab. I am now verifying WHO actually has the car in stock (or in transit and coming within the next week) and make sure they have low mileage (not 120 miles which equals 18 test drivers banging on my new car....)

    I'm still interested in Brian's tactics....at one point I think he said he will call a dealer and give them 5 mins to say yes or no to a target number.

    And I hear you on driving 2 hours. All dealers are within a 45 minute radius.

    I would love to make my deal today, but I have this sense (confirmed by dealers) that I should wait till Nov 4/5 to see what the new promo scheme brings. Right now there is really no flexcash left, so on Nov 4/5 they SHOULD get some new flexcash, in which case I should be able to resurrect those lower quotes. The wild card factor is if they INCREASE the promo somehow....perhaps not likely but at this point I can't see how it hurts AT ALL to wait 1 or 2 more biz days. I don't think there is really anything that is "expiring" today. Hard to wait but oh well.
  • handtobxhandtobx Posts: 8
    edited November 2013
    Brian125

    I hope your internet issues get resolved. We've delayed going to the dealership to buy the car this morning because your comments gave me food for thought.

    I can definitely dump the pro-pack and go aftermarket if I decide that I want those items (thanks for looking up and posting the pricing on those items). The thing about the remote start is that I really want it (I requested it from the dealer). We don't have a garage and in the winter and hot/humid summer months, it would be so nice. My husband says he doesn't mind continuing to be my 'remote start' but I just want it. So, admittedly, I've let some of the BS from the dealer fly. One clarification point to correct something I stated incorrectly- the RS with one transmitter is $711...the $811 included two transmitters. I know they are overcharging on the install though, so I will ask for another transmitter at the $711 price.

    Your invoice pricing for the base and nav are correct. I don't know how much value to put into Edmund's true value pricing; however, the TP for my zip is $28,816 for base and nav. Now that I've told you about my desire for the remote start, does that change your opinion on OTD pricing? If they still (over)charge me at $711, that would still put the invoice + RS price at $29,849.40. So adding on Doc and tag would cap once we hit $30k. Not to say we won't try to get additional money off, but just curious about your thoughts now? EDIT: I forgot to factor in the removal of pro-pack so new OTD would be ~$29640.

    I agree that the DOC fee is very high. I did a search and the avg is $466 in NC! Perhaps that is where I should start to ask for additional money off the car sale price? Out of curiosity, what do you think is a fair DOC fee?

    I wanted to wait until we rooted out a final price before I asked about Flex cash. I would qualify for it. There aren't any financing incentives on the 2014 yet so I was concerned about what rate they'd give me. I may have shot myself in the foot by not allowing them to pull my credit yet (I didn't want a preliminary soft hit to impact my score). So, I told them if I couldn't have dealer financing at 2.75% (what my credit union will do) or less then I would finance independently. Guess what? They said the could do 2.75%, so I don't know if I could have potentially gotten lower financing now (my score is over 800). Long answer to your question is I wouldn't be surprised if they say flex cash OR we match your rate.

    Bottom line is we've been looking for 2.5 months and I think I'm just worn down with the process. Thanks for any additional input you may have!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    " on Nov 4/5, they SHOULD get some new flexcash"

    Really? Why should they? They MAY get some new flexcash.

    Thanks for reminding me why I retired three years earlier than I planned to!

    To each his own I suppose....
  • Once you get the price of the car that YOU are happy with, you say "we are close, I do have independent financing already approved for x.x%...if you would like to finance this deal, you will have to beat their rate or match it and give me the flex cash..."
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,432
    edited November 2013
    handtobx

    Some posters in the forum Accord drive .net have bought the OEM Honda remote starter and had a Honda dealer install it for them. Some paid over 500 dollars, One person in C.A. paid $432 installed. Pricing Depends on the dealer. You could go that route but I think after all this time searching for a vehicle and getting pricing your ready for a vacation.

    Take the handful of dealers in your area and make your best price with RS included with 2 remotes.

    At the price you posted there is no reason why a addition 500 dollars cant be done on that vehicle. With the added accessories price and you lowering the buying number by 500 dollars

    1- puts you in that vehicle for just above invoice price. You now have your remote starter and pro pck at a discounted rate....... but not at dealers invoice price.

    2- The dealer's doc fee charge of 398 is countered and a wash on the bill of sale.
    3- That dealership retains his full dealers hold-back on that vehicle. 2% of MSRP

    Invoice price from what I been reading on the Honda remote starter is just over 200 dollars. Honda may possible get it cheaper but there is really know way to know.

    Do not tip your hand with your financing rate. Honda has a better rate than 2.75% let them run your credit. If Hondas rate is more than yours then you tell Honda to match your rate otherwise hush hush........... Take the 1.9% and inquiry about flex cash. Since you are financing your entitled to that 500 rebate from Honda if that dealer has flex cash.

    If your interested I posted buying tips and advice read them it cant hurt. post #
    30,550
    30,558
    30,575
    30,642
    30660
    30,662
    30723 use any that apply to you.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    " on Nov 4/5, they SHOULD get some new flexcash"

    Really? Why should they? They MAY get some new flexcash.

    Thanks for reminding me why I retired three years earlier than I planned to!

    To each his own I suppose....

    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    @ISELLHONDA:

    I don't get your frustration? Dealers gave me good prices with flexcash. Now a few days later they are saying they are out of flexcash, but to wait until Nov 4/5.

    So tell me why again this is somehow frustrating for the dealer side? If there is a chance they can offer me a price $500 lower on Monday then why I am being so foolish for not buying today? I mean if there is NO flexcash to be had anywhere in the system, then I can still just buy at the current prices. I guess I'm confused why you're acting like this is such an irrational decision. Now that you're retired, perhaps put yourself in the place of the customer and would you do any different?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,432
    edited November 2013
    As a buyer you need to take advantage of every possible rebate and savings you can. There is nothing wrong with that. Take 20 dealerships once you realize they are all the same except on price you go shopping and make your lowest possible deal. Pit one dealer against the next. Do i or you care that there are far to many dealerships in one area. Much better for the consumer. How far you want to extend your drive and what lengths of negotiations you do will result in big dollars saved. This is a big game . Play it well you do good. happy with a medium price works well for most.

    I enjoy the art of Car buying and negotiations. I like to beat them at there own game . Rules and prices they set up and want us to follow. Then dealers cry foul or complain were not making money.

    Almost half the posters here leave TO Much money on TABLE FOR THESE DEALERSHIPS. Just imagine all the uneducated buyers across the country.

    Knowing how and when to buy/ Using the internet to your fullest advantage./ what to look for / what dealerships you make guinea pigs to help you in pricing... etc. This is how you play the car buying game which will get you a great price .

    Post if flex cash is back in your area next week..

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Thanks for the feedback, Brian.

    Based on your insight and my additional research, I just emailed the dealer with an aggressive OTD counter offer, so we'll see what happens. They know I don't need a new car and while I would prefer to be in one, I'll walk away if we can't reach a number I feel good about.
  • capegirl5

    Thanks for the input!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    edited November 2013
    All I was saying was DO NOT expect the flexcash to continue. There is a good chance it will but it may not. I hope in your case, it is extended.

    Promotions are based on inventory levels and good old supply and demand curves.

    It just seems to me that you are REALLY putting yourself through a LOT of efforts to buy a car and that you are scared to death you may just have to pay a penny more than you have to.

    I'm as anxious to save as much as possible when I make a purchase but they comes a point (for me, anyway) when I just pull the trigger and I don't look back.

    Maybe I just don't understand your methods and motivation.

    I also realize and respect the fact that we are all different.
  • Why is there no flex cash between today 11/2 and Monday 11/4? That makes zero sense. The only thing I worry about is that if the dealer(s) knows that the FLEX dollars are a must-have, then they might try to raise the offer on the car itself, but because they jumped through a hoop to get you the flex cash, you should jump at the deal. I am no expert but it is always good to have a price in mind that you are willing to pay for the car and everything else is separate.

    Brian is right...it's a big 'ole game, they make the rules and we are just playing it.
  • I have the 'free' lifetime powertrain warranty. It just so happened I purchased my car from a dealer that offered this but it certainly wasn't a factor in my decision to purchase. I was strictly looking at price. So I look at it as a nice to have.

    So when I did get the fine print, I need to do oil changes and tire rotations on regular intervals (when the light comes on but no more than at least 5k miles). Also the transmission fluid needs to be changed at the recommended interval. Work has to be done at the dealer. All other work does not. You have to keep good records. My guess is if I ever have to use it - it will probably be a battle to get a repair covered. I guess they think if they already have you coming in for regular maintanence you will just stay there when they give you ridiculous prices to fix other stuff. I look at the warranty as an advertising tool to get you in the service department so they can later rip you off.

    I ended up with 6 free oil changes as part of my purchase so I'll do the minimum I need to keep the warranty in effect but once they tell me something else is wrong i'm going straight to my regular mechanic.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [[[[All I was saying was DO NOT expect the flexcash to continue. There is a good chance it will but it may not. I hope in your case, it is extended.

    Promotions are based on inventory levels and good old supply and demand curves.

    It just seems to me that you are REALLY putting yourself through a LOT of efforts to buy a car and that you are scared to death you may just have to pay a penny more than you have to.

    I'm as anxious to save as much as possible when I make a purchase but they comes a point (for me, anyway) when I just pull the trigger and I don't look back.

    Maybe I just don't understand your methods and motivation.

    I also realize and respect the fact that we are all different. ]]]]

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    ISELL: The point is that all the dealers have RUN OUT of flexcash at this point....so while some had been using it to post lower quotes, they would now say "sorry, I just used my last drop" when I get to the dealer. Many have confirmed this. Many have also confirmed that the current promo scheme expires on Monday the 4th, so on Tuesday the 5th there will be something new. YES, ISELL, it is possible that on Tuesday the 5th Honda will announce that there will be no car promotions at all for November/December. If so, then I can STILL buy the car at the prices I could have bought for yesterday!

    I am not "scared" to pay a penny more. But I am more than happy to wait 2 days if it means $500 off on the car. Perhaps you aren't understanding the chess board here....and I know this forum's hosting software is incredibly useless as you can't even read the quote you're responding to (which is why I cut and paste it in). But seriously, if you are buying an iPad and it is $499 today, and last weekend it was $399 with a $100 coupon at BestBuy, but today that coupon is expired, BUT the store clerk says that he expects they might resurrect that coupon on Tuesday, would you buy it for $499 today? Or would you wait and see if the coupon does come back, as the store clerk guessed, and get it for $399? YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE since the price isn't going HIGHER from where it stands today!

    And I don't think I am doing anything too crazy, at least vs the Brian advice and others on this board. I have only stepped foot into one dealer to test drive the car, and I've been using the Internet and email to get some quotes. If I end up saving $1000 on the price vs something I could have just gotten walking in off the street in a hurry, and I spent a week and sent a bunch of emails, well to me that is worth it. Maybe $1000 is just scratch to you, but I like to get good prices on stuff. I don't think that makes me unique, at least reading this board.....
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [[[[[Why is there no flex cash between today 11/2 and Monday 11/4? That makes zero sense. The only thing I worry about is that if the dealer(s) knows that the FLEX dollars are a must-have, then they might try to raise the offer on the car itself, but because they jumped through a hoop to get you the flex cash, you should jump at the deal. I am no expert but it is always good to have a price in mind that you are willing to pay for the car and everything else is separate.

    Brian is right...it's a big 'ole game, they make the rules and we are just playing it.]]]]

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    @CAPEGIRL: Apparently each dealer gets an allocation of flexcash, depending on sales volume for prior [month?]. When they use it, it's gone. At this point, most all of them have actually used it. Last week (around Oct 29) when I first started getting quotes, most of the internet managers were quoting WITH flexcash to get a lower price and entice me. Other dealers were saying "yeah but they probably don't really HAVE IT left...." Indeed, when I pushed closer with some of those quotes, like what is your inventory and when can I sign, all of the sudden those flexcashers said "I just checked with our sales manager and we just used it up last night". A couple were better and said "we did use it up but we will still honor the quote with the flexcash"

    One of the dealers said "I doubt anyone has much left since the District Mgr said there is less that 1000 bucks of flexcash IN THE WHOLE DISTRICT right now"

    So Monday 11/4 is apparently the closing day of the "current promotion scheme" and Tuesday will be a new day. Many dealers have intimated that they are likely to get a "refreshed" pot of flex cash beginning that day. Or, maybe there is an even sweeter promotion. Perhaps unlikely, but as I said to ISELL above, I don't see how there is any cost to waiting 2 days. I have several pretty attractive quotes WITHOUT flex cash. It can only get better from here, and if for some totally strange reason Honda decides to go with ZERO incentives AND discontinue the flex cash program (even though it seems to be a somewhat recurrent system with the dealers based on their volumes) then I guess I can just buy at the current prices I have today. It's a zero cost option! Ok, I guess there is a small "cost" and that is I have to wait 2 more days to drive my Honda, but I can live with that :)
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