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@veers, I'm actually out in Texas, so having the car shipped to me would be an added expense. So even if I was to find a deal that's maybe $500 more here compared to up north, I'd rather just deal locally. I really appreciate the help and advise you and Brian are giving newbies like me. Thank you!
I am planning to buy 2014 Honda Accord Sedan without Navigation White Color in next 1-2 day. Can you please suggest what is the best "OUT OF THE DOOR" price for this car in Charlotte North Carolina. Also is this good time to buy or should i wait for January ? Is this good idea to get all accessories from Dealer or getting from outside. Some dealer say that the car is having accessories of 2500$ which i don't believe.
Thanks in advance
@naazin, oh in that case try autonation in corpus christi, they might give you a good deal.
what should be the best price to ask for including everything.(out of the door) ?
I paid $20,400 for same vehicle (CVT) , however the Doc fee was $50, Title & License was $230, tire fee was $18.75. WATCH THE FINANCING, My financing was 1.49% with a $200 back for using credit union.
Received email from one of the dealers who quoted me, Anderson Honda with 2014 Accord CVT for 20,388. They are in Palo Alto.
Did any one buy 2014 Honda Accord LX in Seattle, WA area recently? How much the base price and OTD price? How much the new car sale tax rate? Which dealer do you buy the car from? Thanks!
naazin, oh in that case try autonation in corpus christi, they might give you a good deal.
naazin, oh in that case try autonation in corpus christi, they might give you a good deal.
Thanks, Ive gone ahead and contacted them requesting a price quote. Let's see what they say. Fingers crossed.
With all these OTD prices, is lease never a good idea? How does one convert a good OTD price to a good lease deal?
Thanks a lot for sharing the info. Anderson quoted me $100 more. Is it reasonable to ask for 20,000 or 20,100 for LX CVT.
Almost all dealers will honor that true car price. But to get that price the vehicle must be in dealers lot.. True car is a good tool to use in Negotiations.. Some area's will net a better deal than other area's. Thats your leverage to tell local dealers meet or beat this price..
If true car is not the lowest price in your area you need to keep on negotiating. Make dealers meet your target price.
2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW X-5, 2012 ML350
Going to pickup a 2014 Accord EX-L tomorrow morning. Will post price after the deal is complete.
When I called Geico to add the vehicle to my insurance they offered a 7 year/100000 mile extended warranty, bumper to bumper, with emergency breakdown service and rental reimbursement. Cost is about $88/year. Interesting thing was they added by default (since it cannot be added later) but said if I changed my mind, I could call and drop that warranty coverage.
I was planning to go with Hondacare extended warranty. Don't have the price yet (will get online quote from Saccucci and Bernadi) but let's say if it is the same, which one would be the better option?
Your target price to buy should be from 800 below invoice to 1500. this is a good price range to be in. Most smart shoppers and edmund members are in this range price across the counrty...Very few folks have recieved a better below invoice price than 1500 on a 2014 model. In your state the markets are not selling that low.
To get that 1500 below plus you would need to get many dealerships involved, be in the right area, really know how to negotiate. I suggest you read back 7 to 10 pages in here to get a idea on area pricing in your state and learn how the best way to negotiate a good deal.
OTD pricing consists of your states taxes, tags , and doc fee charge. Every state has a different OTD price.
You need to work on Lowest selling price.
If you have high doc fee charges in your state you need to counter them in your asking price so its a wash on the bill of sale.
Great Info here
Anderson was $400 higher when getting quotes last week for me too, then they sent me an ad for $12 cheaper than I paid at Maita. You can offer any price you wish but make sure they don't jack-up other fee's to compensate. Financing is another area they use to their favor. You also might try Honda of Concord. I would say $20k to $20.8 is what they will sell for depending on dealer, in bay area. Offer them $20k RIGHT NOW and see if they go for it. FWIW I ended up at Maita Honda in Citrus Heights.
I'm looking to purchase a new 2014 Honda Accord either the EX-L w/Nav or EX-L V6 w/Nav. My location is lower Fairfield County, CT where the dealers are crazy high. You all helped with my last car. Got a great deal then. Hoping I could get some help with pricing on these two cars now. The sooner the better as I need new wheels. My old Honda finally got put out to pasture.
In addition to prices, any thoughts on why Consumer Reports panned the Accord this year. It's always been a great car.
Thanks in advance, diva**
800 to 1500 below invoice is a good deal. with 1500 plus being a top deal. Most educated buyers and us here in edmunds fall into these numbers. North east region NY,NJ, CT, deals are nowhere near that 1500 mark. If there is any one great time to buy its in the next couple of days.
1500 below on any model accord may be do-able. It mine as well be you DIVA.... Re-read our posts so your ready to negotiate the lowest possible deal.
Try New Rochelle Honda --- high volume and they do deal at months end. Hopefully they are working on last days / end of the year incentives.
Friendly and Yonkers honda may also be good this weekend into monday..
Ny doc fee's are only 75 dollars
Sunday into monday is the superbowl of car buying. On these last days your on the goal line with alot of dealerships you have there full attension. Go for it... LOL................
Good luck to all
Just checked Consumer Reports online, they claim the car can be had for $19,920 in SF Bay Area. So your $20K is very possible! It was $ higher a few days ago. EX CVT for $22,588
HI Again everyone,
So I've just spent the last hour or so reading all of the posts back for the last couple of months. As I previously mentioned, I'm trying to buy a V6 without NAV in NY, NJ, CT area. A lot of dealerships don't seem to have the color combination I want, so I might need to go to something else. Anyway, I requested quotes from a number of places today and with the exception of one quote. which was just ridiculous, I either didn't get any reply or the only reply I got was please give us a call. In addition to New Rochelle, Yonkers and Friendly, which Brian referred to, are there other dealerships in the area that are known to be good for internet sales? Any particularly to stay away from?
Also, I am trying to figure out what is realistic for a target price this time of the year. I was thinking $1500 under invoice incl. destination (so somewhere around 27K -- less if I have to pay more than NY doc fee) plus TTL , but I don't know if this is realistic. Thoughts?
I need to replace a car, but it's not necessarily urgent, but I figure this is the best time to buy. I am also not averse to making a deal on a Camry if I could do better on one of those (hope that's not heresy :-))
Thanks much for all the info here!
South Florida - Sedan EXL V6 (Non-Nav)
I want to say thank you to all the good folks posting insightful information on how to negotiate and obtain car pricing. I was able to send many emails today and obtain prices each one reducing. I was able to even receive a Purchase Order with the price breakdown. I wanted to ask you folks to help determine if it's a good deal. There is one questionable figure (i'll put in CAPS), but I think they put this together to play around with the numbers and meet my number. I was seeking a 2013 but was offered this 2014. So far it's the lowest I've been quoted:
Vehicle Price: 26,098
6% Tax: 1627.65
CUSTOMER SERVICE PACKET: 899.00
Doc/Processing Fee 124.00
Lemon Law 2.00
Is this a good deal. I'm willing to pull the trigger, but before I do, I want to ask previous dealers if they can beat the price. What are your thoughts. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for sharing the info. One dealer agreed for 20100 for vehicle price, destination and doc fees few hours back. Looks like 19,900 can be tried.
****2013 Civic LX Sedan - Central NC****
Newbie in central NC here! Great thread with very helpful people!! Looking to buy a 2013 Civic LX, 4 door by 12.31.13. Does anyone have experience buying from dealers in Cary/Durham/Raleigh or Oxford, NC? I want a '13 because the '14 Civics have the new CVT trannys and I'm leery of them! Do you think $15000 cash is an attainable OTD price for a '13 LX with a MSRP of $19,755 and invoice at $18,422? Please advise ASAP!
call directly to each dealerships internet managers. dealerships that are busy will put you on the back burner, or they will tell you to come down.. that is what you dont want to do. dealerships that are in striking distance you mat want to visit.
stay away from these dealerships in NY. Plaza and Paragon. both dealerships lie and play games just to get you down.
I just wanna say for those shopping for a Honda in or around Houston, just save yourself time and frustration and avoid any Gillman branded dealer. I haven't bought yet, but my god, these are the worst I've seen in the business. I went to two of them.
You get really good deal for V6.. your price is 2445 below invoice. Is it include flex cash ?
There are also 12 honda dealersips in long island NY. There is huntington and atlantic. google to see how far out on the island you want to travel and reach out to there dealerships internet manager.
As far as a target price i could tell you 1500 below may be a top target price to get in our area. The only folks who will know are buyers like yourself contacting dealerships.
You may find that 800 to 1000 below invoice price is the best you could do plus paying a dealers doc fee charge ..That seems to be the norm here. If thats the case that represents your area's market price.Make your best deal closest to your home. If you have read the posts in this forum use the info to help you make the lowest possible deal.
I can tell you from experience the buying game starts sunday and ends on tuesday night. Thats when you will make the best possible deal. Get as many dealerships involved as possible letting each dealership know what your target price to buy is???
Monday night i plan on buying 2 vehicles for friends.. A chevy,and Hyundai. At 4 pm i will start my emails and calls to 25 or 30 dealerships internet managers with my target price to buy that night. . If i cant get my targeted price i will re-adjust for the sale. Everything we talk about in this forum does work and will help you make the best possible deal. Be patient you will find dealers that will give you there bottom line prices these next few days..
Thank you very much. I had emailed Paragon but did not provide my telephone number, so they were trying to get me to call them, which I haven't done. I will cross them off the list.
A couple additional questions. Am I likely to have any luck with a dealership if the car (color) I prefer is not in their inventory? That is, will I need to change my preference to get a better deal or are they likely to be willing to do a trade with another dealer at the same price? Also, with respect to the doc fee, is it typical to be able to get a better price on the vehicle itself in NJ since they have much higher doc fees? In other words, if my target price is, say, $1000 under invoice, is it reasonable to adjust that to something higher for NJ to absorb the higher fee or do I need to provide a target price inclusive of doc fees?
Thank you again for the help!
Your looking at 3400 below invoice. probably not be obtainable. dealers may go up to to 3k below invoice with a incentive plus taxes, tags , and doc fee charge. You want tax included in that 15k deal never never gonna happen..... Your 15k cash means nothing to them. dealers get paid whether you buy or finance the vehicle. If a dealer has many 2013 civic's on his lot you stand a better chance of getting a lower price..... with just a couple of civic's on dealers lots means pricing wont be as good.. Supply and demand.. Your best bet is to buy that 2013 model next year jan,2014. Now your buying a 1 year old model vehicle ................... your 3400 offer might be entertained.
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