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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • heelntoeheelntoe Posts: 21
    Amen. I couldn't agree more.

    Here in PA, I've done quite a bit of car shopping recently. I just bought a new minivan, am helping my folks purchase (probably) a new Accord and I'm going to pick up a used Commander within the next couple of weeks.

    In all the quotes I've received in PA, the "Documentation" has always been included in the Tax, Title and License and this has always been very reasonable. $133.50 at the Dodge dealer. $143.50 at the Honda dealer. There is no seperate item for Documentation. From what I can tell, these fees are about $60 to $70 higher than what this state (PA) charges the dealer to issue a new title, plate and registration as well as record a lein, based on the DOTs fee schedule. That's perfectly acceptable to me for the dealer to make in "documentation" charges.

    However... In some posts, you see the TTL or DMV fees *plus* a documentation fee of $200, $300 and $469. As far as I'm concerned, if you got a quote for $300 under invoice and paid a $469 documentation fee as well as DMV fees, then you're really at $169 over invoice.

    Of course, the biggest variable is sales tax. Without that info, OTD is somewhat useless since sales tax can be quite significant at 7% in some counties in PA. If you trade in PA, you only pay tax on the net different between the value of the trade and new car purchase price so... if you trade a $15K car in on a $25K Accord, you're paying $600 to $700 less tax than somebody with no trade. An OTD post doesn't reflect this.

    Long story short, yeah, I agree... OTD pricing without any supplementary information is of limited help.
  • jb_turnerjb_turner Posts: 702
    Don't judge a price of the car by using how much below or above invoice, doc fee... this fee and that fee... what matters is OTD because we ALL pay an OTD price.
    Comparing prices really does not mean a hoot unless you are willing to travel across the Country to save some money.
  • heelntoeheelntoe Posts: 21
    Well... I am willing to travel 200 to 300 miles to get a good deal and have. This is especially true for specialty used cars like my BMW M Coupe though that's not necessarily applicable here.

    To get the right car at the right price, I've brought cars back from VA, NC, NJ and OH over the years. Owning a capable tow vehicle and having a friend's enclosed hauler stored at my house and available for use makes that option viable. Since I've seen tax rates anywhere from 2% to 9% in different states, a 7% difference can equate to a difference of $1750 in OTD price. Knowing the tax rates or breaking out the actual price of the car is very helpful.

    If I buy a car in Ohio or another state, I either trailer it back or purchase a temporary in-transit tag there to drive it back. I'll then pay the necesary PA fees at AAA to get it on the road here. The OTD price for somebody purchasing and registering it in another state is, like I said, of limited value. My OTD could vary drastically from theirs even though the price paid for the car itself is similar. Being 30 miles from the Ohio border, it's not uncommon for many PA residents in my area to include those dealers in their search. My "OTD" price for purchasing a car in another state will be substantially lower than a resident of that state. It's really the only way to compare apples to apples.
  • hondasdhondasd Posts: 13
    I live in CA too. I am wondering what dealer did you get your Accord? The price you said was $1,100. Is this price include or exclude destination? What kind of model did you buy? If possible, could you send me the quotes you get by email?
    haogangno1@yahoo.com
    Thank you!
  • csr67csr67 Posts: 58
    Here in CA, the sales tax on your car is based on the county of residence. Makes no difference if you drive to another county and buy your Honda, your purchase price is the same. This OTD price disucssion could go on forever, but I think it's far more useful to discuss the actual "purchase" price. This is the price you paid for the car, including destination. The only items you leave off are tax, title, and license which are variable by state/county and are non-negotiable. If your dealer has some rip-off doc prep fee, add that to your purchase price.
  • csr67csr67 Posts: 58
    Check your email, I used Penske Honda in Ontario. This is my third accord from them, always the best deal.
  • simplyjsimplyj Posts: 15
    I live in MD with a 6% sales tax rate. I co-worker of mine who has a lot of car buying experience told me that his rough rule of thumb to buying cars is to get an OTD price that is lower than original MSRP. If you pay more OTD than the original MSRP, you've overpaid. Sorry. :(
  • heelntoeheelntoe Posts: 21
    It's the same way here, to a point, csr67. My folks are also looking at Acuras as well and the dealer right across the border in Boardman, Ohio as well as the one in Akron have both proven to be more willing to deal than the local dealer. If nothing else, getting a quote from those dealers on the price of the car itself helps to pressure the local dealer. It eliminates the variables in tax, title, registration and "documentation", whether that is generally included in those fees or broken out as a line item.

    I agree, I've seen this come up time and time again. It'll go on forever. To me, the sad part is... despite the wealth of information available on Edmunds.com and the collective knowledge and experience of this community, I suspect that a number of buyers only look at that out-the-door price. The dealer shows them a very competitive price on the car only to tack on a $300 documentation fee, a $200 prep fee, $250 for flaps and paint protection in addition to the state mandated tax, title and plates. I also suspect that in at least some of the deals where OTD is quoted, a trade may have been involved but not referenced. That pretty much throws everything out the window. Not only does that impact the selling price but, in PA and other states, the tax liability (not insignificant) as well.

    I always make it clear to the dealer/salesman that I want to know the price of the car. I know what's reasonable and customary in terms of TTL and documentation and will expect to see that after we've agreed on the price of the car. If they try to pull some funny business, I walk away. Like I said, my recent experience has shown that, at least in PA, documentation and state fees, excluding tax, hasn't exceeded $150.

    Sorry for getting off track. I was just seconding the suggestion to at least provide more info in the OTD feedback.
  • smg225smg225 Posts: 7
    Hi all,

    I've just started looking for a new car, trying to decide between the Accord and the Hyundai GLS (both base models, manual transmission). Anyway, Open Road Honda is the best price we've been quoted for an Accord so far, $18,700. Looking over the forums I've seen a bunch of prices but none for a base manual '09; comparing what we were offered to similar automatics, it seems a bit high, but in the dealership's defense, that is pre-haggling. So I guess I'm asking if anyone has a sense of what sort of price would be good for the car.

    And also, if anyone wanted to weigh in on the Accord vs. the Sonata, I'd love to hear that too. Thanks!
  • al63017al63017 Posts: 149
    Okay can't resist.

    I see this OTD thing every 30 - 90 days when I look at this forum.

    I see moderators ask for people to give this info.

    How much was the price of car--------------

    Before tax, title, license, doc fee, temp tags, prep,tint,mud guards, exterior paint sealant, interior fabric guard, trunk mat,back up camera,interior lights, etc. If you got a bunch of that for free make a comment but leave it out of the base price.
    Base price=cost of car + transportation and that is it.

    I have seen dealers that have all those things as options and I am sure I left off some.

    Price of car always includes transportation and nothing else.

    Then by my city, county, state, and add on options I can figure the same deal at that dealer. Where I live tax varies by city and I have bought Accords with no options and some with a few. :My OTD for same car might be thousands from yours but I need the base price.

    It is like going to a baseball game and telling me it cost you 400.00, well did you buy 20 hot dogs and beers. I just want the price of the ticket not the extras that is controlled by me and may vary by extremes from your extras. Your parking may have cost nothing and mine may have cost 50.00. The price of the ticket that is all that helps. What did you pay the scalper for the ticket.

    This will only help if at all for maybe a day and then you will see OTD so give up anti-OTD people. I have but thought I would waste a little time.

    I think people really are trying to be helpful but you have widely varying people shopping here and some are shopping payment which often will be referred by finance people as your OTD price. Some pay cash and they only care about the base plus transportation. This forum has been very helpful to me and you just have to read enough posts to sort out the base prices. Or who knows maybe it is the other way around and all the cash buyers are OTD people. Makes no difference but base price of car plus transportation seems to be the common thread that the moderators ask for in all the forums. Not me the moderators. Holler at them if you do not agree.

    Just bought 2-2008 Accords. 1 LX-S Coupe and 1 4dr EX-L-4 cyl.

    23700 on sedan and 20989 on LX-S Coupe which was price of car plus transportation and nothing else. St. Louis Honda Internet sales.

    Great, great, great cars. 32 mpg on recent EX 4 dr. trip
  • I want to know what's the lowest I can get for an EX-L Manual 4 cyl in minneapolis area. I am from wisconsin and the dealers here charge almost 1500 extra than those in MN. Is it possible to get the car for OTD price (including dest, taxes and fees) for $24500. I dont know what price to consider since not many people have bought a manual here in the forums. Any help is much appreciated.

    Thanks
  • jhinscjhinsc Posts: 397
    I've just started looking for a new car, trying to decide between the Accord and the Hyundai GLS (both base models, manual transmission).,,,,,

    I previously had an '06 Accord EX-V6 and was looking at '08 4 cyl Accord's and Sonata's before deciding on an '08 Accord EXL V6. I looked at the Malibu too, but they were too scarce in the trim I wanted (4 cyl, 6-speed auto), therefore deals were not as good. I tested the '09 Sonata Limited, nice car, but a bit too small. One thing I was specifically looking for was easier egress in and out of the back seat. Once inside the Sonata you had plenty of room, but you almost have to contort yourself around the side bolster to get in. I had that problem in the '06 Accord and I wanted to be sure I didn't have that problem in my next car. The '08 Accord's back seat is very spacious and easy to get in and out. The Malibu's back seat was nice too, but I'm not going to pay the same price for a Malibu as the Accord, when I know the Accord's residual value will hold up better. I chose the V6 after the driving the EXL 4 cyl. There was a resonance coming from the ANC system that I didn't like. The ANC system works well in the V6 with VCM so I didn't hear it. HFS finance rates for the V6 were better too and that sealed the deal for me. :shades:
  • znlznl Posts: 3
    Went to the dealer in South Florida today and was quoted $25100 +TTL.
    If I was to lease for 36mo 15k with first payment down it would be $369. Is this a good deal?
  • csr67csr67 Posts: 58
    I want to know what's the lowest I can get for an EX-L Manual 4 cyl in minneapolis area.

    I don't know if it's different in your area, but here in CA, a manual EX-L 4 door simply does not exist. The only manuals I saw were bare bones LX models. I'd have loved to get a manual for my accord, but wound up with the v6 EXL... I wish honda would give the sedan V6 the six speed manual like they did in prior years....That was the sweet sleeper set-up...
  • Hi, I am looking for LX, too. And I am in SF bayarea. You got a great deal!! Would you mind tell me the dealer's name and phone? Or would you please fwd me the quato? Thanks in advance! My email in lamshow@hotmail.com
  • honda00honda00 Posts: 29
    Would anyone care to guess how long it will be before dealers are offering 2009 Accords at near invoice or $100 over invoice. I may be in the market for an Accord now and I'm trying to decide whether to shoot for a 2008 at $500 or so below invoice to wait awhile and buy a 2009 for around invoice.

    When the dealers are fully stocked with 2009's in late September or October do you think they will selling them for close to invoice price?
  • iwantoneiwantone Posts: 52
    I live near Columbia, South Carolina. I need some advise and opinions regarding the honda dealerships in this area. Also is it better to go a dealership in an area such as Columbia or stick to small town dealerships? I was advised to stay away from small town dealerships since there is no competition for these type of dealerships.
  • I just searched the five state area; MN, IA, WI, ND, SD. and there are no 2008 Accord EXL sedan with manual transmission available. There are only seven 2009 Accord EXL sedan with M/T in that same 5-state search. I dont think at this time you could get a 2009 for $24500.00 OTD. You would probably be closer to the $25.5 neighborhood.

    If you email everyone in Minnesota, you'll find the one dealer in Minnesota that has on on hand. Good luck and happy shopping ;)
  • godwheelgodwheel Posts: 25
    My bud got the same car (leased) $299/month for the EX-L V6 without the navigation... He did put in his car worth $2,500 as a down payment, so if you had to put anything down, then you can probably bargain for a better deal.
  • theplaytheplay Posts: 2
    Hi I was at union last weekend and was not offered near that deal, Any additional information on your deal to help? Was this the 4 or 6 Cyl. Thanks
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