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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,408
    edited January 2013
    yes i have. there is one poster 13a claims he bought a 2013 model last day of Dec, for 2k below invoice. I highly doubt that one. and there have been a few poster that got close to 6 or 700 below dealers invoice in our area but gave back high doc fee's.. The last day of this month will tell if Honda dealers are willing to come down lower on pricing. The high Volume dealerships will be the key. There are dealers who have went as low as 1k below dealers invoice in a few States but not many. Weymouth honda would be the only dealer so far that i know that would sell me any Accord for that price. They have doc fee's of 239 so in actuality Weymouth Honda is selling that accord at $761 below his invoice. like ive been posting in both Honda forums and been preaching... On jan, 31 after i send out my 30 emails and phone calls to the dealers i will then have my answer to best price scenario's Until then this is all hear say .

    Brian

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I purchased the car from Roy Small at Metro Honda. No trade in. I'm financing for 36 months at 1.99%. I received this low rate because of top tier credit. Metro Honda is tough. They would not waive any fees, including the $369 doc fee. I went there twice to negotiate and, both times, they let me walk away.

    I decided to purchase the Accord from them because they offer lifetime free oil changes, they will let you use a loaner car if you are servicing your car there, and they offer 10 year/100,000 mile engine and transmission warranty (but caveat is that this is only effective if you've gotten all your routine maintenance work done there), I hope that $27.5 (including destination) is still a good deal. I'm sure that prices will come down as the months pass. But I couldn't wait. In any event, we absolutely love the car. The new model is very impressive and has a "wow" factor... from the "luxury" grade leather seats to the electronic/safety features. This is Honda's best Accord.
  • My price was right around yours. And granted, California sales tax is pretty high, but you paid $459 and I paid $2364 in sales tax. That can't be correct. If your OTD was 28226, then your price must have been lower. Good job, either way.
  • jammikejammike Posts: 38
    Hi 13as,
    Did you get a College Grad Discount or Loyalty ownership discount or something. I am in touch with AutoSport Honda and the best they can offer for Accord Sport CVT is 21655 + $790 dest. You got for almost $1500 less. Who was your sales rep ?
  • darrin8darrin8 Posts: 14
    Brian, update to Weymouth's price on the 13 Touring. We agreed to the price I mentioned in my previous post (1000 below invoice with 239 doc fee =761 total below invoice) and I am now waiting delivery of vehicle(1/2st Week in Feb 13) to Weymouth from the factory since there were no Black tourings located in North East that had less than 200miles(demo's) or would would trade with his dealership. Tourings are in low number right now.

    Will update forum when I actually purchase vin. By the way no delerships in VA can even come close to it and will not come below invoice and they want to stick you with 499-599 processing fee's. I dont see how/why people here in VA are letting the dealerships get away with those profits. I did learn something with all of the negotiating with around 50 dealerships in Va and GA. The ones who really tried to match Weymouths (which there were none who could) there were a few sales mangers told me if I could get the car for that price I should jump on it and don't let that deal go since I would not see that pricing here locally. I figured those dealerships were at least giving me the straight talk.
  • jammikejammike Posts: 38
    edited January 2013
    Brian125/darrin8,
    After contacting Weymouth's in MA and AutoSport in NJ, I am noticing atleast $500 difference compared to End of Dec prices.
  • That is what they put down for the tax. I won't argue, I was expecting ~800 for tax.
  • Actually, I did take it to a local tire place. They tried to plug the tire but the hold was too large so I had to buy a new tire. Just sucks I had to replace a tire with 800 miles on it.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,408
    edited January 2013
    Darrin
    Are you taking a train to boston to pick up your car???????????????????????? I personally think, dont know yet til i start my negotiations on last day this month that there are a couple of honda dealerships here in new york with only $75 dollar doc fee's..
    i plan on trying to get my best deal with them after getting best prices from New jersey dealers. i know if i go to Weymouth honda i could do 1k or better.

    Here is a list of N.J. dealerships who i like in best to worst order and feel can get the best price closest to Weymouth honda if anybody is interested.

    1- AutoSport
    2- Paul Miller
    3- Hamaliton
    4- Joyce
    5- DCH Acedamy Good dealership 500 below has been there lowest price.
    6- Garden State........... maybe
    7-Metro.. Always load there cars with add on's gotta know how to negotiate,high doc fee's $369
    8- Planet honda.. High doc fee's of 398 claim to match any offer on paper so unless you can get a great price quote dont expect much at this place.

    Brian

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,626
    Had the same problem two weeks after we bought the wife's Mazda back in '05...had to purchase a new tire and then two months later, a new alloy. Was sorry then that we didn't purchase the tire/rim package from the F&I guy but since then, only normal wear and tear. This is one of the pitfalls of owning a vehicle...[non-permissible content removed] like this seems to happen sometimes. Just have to chalk it up to bad luck and move on...sucks, but hey, life does suck sometimes! :)

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • Thanks for the info, I have seen some decent deals, but I am also waiting for better ones. I also noticed that for big holidays, like memorial day or quarter ends, are also good time. The other accord I bought was from garden state Honda and was via their special emails 4.5k off sticker price. No hassles as long as you show them their email. Their doc fees are $399 so I will say closer to 4k off my 08 accord.

    Open Road Honda and garden state send some decent prices via email every now and then. Tracking those emails, I noticed that like I said before on memorial day week they go down as much as 1k from their normal low prices. So I will see if I will wait that long. Good luck w yours.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,408
    Open Road has high doc fee's 398.. Presidents weekend is a really good time to get a great deal on all cars.. Dealers looking to push out those numbers and getting$$$ support/ incentives from there companies..

    Memorial day week is end of year sales to me. you always can get great pricing on any vehicle at that time. I like to buy my new model cars in Dec of the previous year or in the next 2 months at best. I keep them 4 to 5 years. This gives me the full benefits of owning the vehicle that whole model year. Buying a new car is probably the worst investment we all can make financially with repairs and depreciation values. But like i say... You only live once.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • True, that's why I was considering that 2013 Mazda at the $16, 860 OTD, But the Accord is a better value/reliable for like 22k OTD though..... Well let's hope these dealers start throwing some good deals in the upcoming weeks. Good luck everyone.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,626
    The big question for you is it worth the savings of $5140.00 to go with the Mazda6...a large amount to be sure but is your overall happiness worth that amount to you? A tough question that only you can answer because you will have to live with this choice. Another suggestion is to buy the Mazda and drive it for a few years, or until the mid cycle refresh is done onthe Accord. This way all the kinks will be out of the Accord and you'll feel good about the $ saved right now. Who knows, maybe your financial situation will be better in a few years? Just something else to throw into the mix here but this is a big decision and maybe waiting a few years would be the best of both worlds actually...? You're still so undecided so maybe it just isn't the right time to go for the Accord because if it were, it'd be in your driveway by now...or at least a deposit would be in Honda's hands!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,408
    edited January 2013
    Sandman,

    Very sound advice. i agree with you.... There is no reason to rush your decision. If money is a issue or a deciding factor the mazda 6 would be a no brainer. Reliability and resale value is on the Accords side. Presidents weekend would be a great indicator with some very competitive pricing for both vehicles. Wait till then and then you could decide..

    Brian

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,408
    Jammike,
    your right ...Dealers have the leverage right now. always close your car deal on the last days of any month or last day. Thats when you have the most leverage to getting the best price. All dealers will give you there best price on the last day of the month.. Any info or pricing you receive or hear about before that last day you use to help better your deal.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Wise advises guys, Again, the Accord was my only option until I bumped into this "insane" Mazda 6 deal. Financially it makes sense even if I just want to save some money in my monthly payment.
    Unfortunately, I must decide in a couple of days as they are running out of leftovers in the red I wanted (and the only color I would go for even at that price, as thats the only color that appeals to me). They didn't have it in stock and were going to get it from ny.Plus my local dealer was matching the Fitzmall, MD Prices, as that's how they went so crazy low. So I might have to give it some thought until tomorrow at least. If not I will go for the original target, the accord. Thanks for all your inputs.
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Posts: 32
    edited January 2013
    It appears that one can get a Sonata GLS with PEP for $20k OTD (with HMF cash, owner and student/veteran rebates), Optima LX with CP for about $21-$21.5K (with KMF cash and student/veteran but without owner or competitive rebate) and Accord LX for $21.5k-$22.5k.

    An Optima's safety rating is below Accord but higher than Sonata. The mileage is same as a Sonata but less than an Accord. Hence, one will be paying about $1k more than a Sonata for its slightly better safety ratings.

    IMHO, it may be better to spend about $2k more on an Accord instead of about $1k on an Optima (same mileage as a Sonata) because an Accord has better mileage (min $2k gas cost saving for about 100k miles) and highest safety ratings among these 3 cars. Hence, the effective cost of an Accord could be about $20k, if one is planning to keep the vehicle for a long time (> 100k miles), provided there is no huge repair bill due to its shorter warranty. In addition, one's mind will be peaceful knowing that he/she has the vehicle that has the highest safety ratings in its class at the time of purchase, besides the higher reliability and reputation of a Honda vehicle.

    Earlier, I was ready to purchase a Sonata. The vehicle was supposed to be at the dealer's lot before Christmas. But it did not come due to some issues. It will be coming only towards the end of Jan. I have the buyer's order but did not sign it yet. Thankfully, I came across IIHS 2013 tests around Jan first week. After seeing the IIHS 2013 small overlap tests, I just cannot digest the fact that Sonata's side-curtain airbags did not open. IIHS says about 25% of frontal crash is similar to this test.

    An Accord's style and warranty is not as good as an Optima/Sonata but it's mileage and safety ratings are better. Right now, I decided to go for an Accord 2013. May be it was a blessing in disguise for not getting the Sonata in time.

    If, I would have across the IIHS 2013 test before Dec 31, I would have shopped for a Honda before Dec 31 and obtained a decent deal on Dec 31. Right now, I am getting offers (Accord LX) for about $21,200 before TTL. I can get much cheaper price (around $20,600) in CA but its sales tax is very high and it negates the difference.
  • Because this forum has been incredibly helpful, here is my report:

    The target: 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Black/Black with deck lid spoiler and cargo net. (First Edmunds thank you shout out to “fg_for_honda” who made me realize I couldn’t have installed the cargo net myself). My 1999 Accord is a V6, and it still purrs. I believe the extra price is worth it.

    I like to number items, so:

    1) Things I’m not good at: face-to-face negotiations and listening to a salesperson tell me something I know to be false (i.e. “my cost is …..” or “this deal is only good today”)

    2) Things I am good at: data collection, organization, cheapskateness. I’m a little bit OCD about this. You should see my spreadsheet.

    3) What I’m about to tell you took a long, long time. I was sure I knew what car I was buying almost a year ago (Kia Sorrento before the MPG debacle, Prius V, Sonata, and then in the nick of time, the new 2013 Accords were released).

    4) The Edmunds forums saved me several thousand dollars back in 2007 when I bought a Camry Hybrid. Forum rules: You Must Read At Least The Last 50 Postings Before Asking Your Question. It’s almost always already been answered. Also, maybe don’t stop by the forums when you only have 30 minutes left to make a decision on a purchase. I’m just sayin.

    5) I absolutely realize that if I keep a car for 8 years (or 14 like last time), any $100--$500 in savings won’t really amount to much. But I can’t help it. I also realize that every day these things are for sale, my price starts to look not as impressive. You never check prices _after_ buying a new TV, do you?

    6) Research I did, besides Edmunds: I downloaded every free kindle book on car buying I could find. They mostly all say the same thing, which we all sort of know. One guy who stood out runs this website: http://www.fightingchance.com/ I did not pay for his service, nor his e-book (which was free for awhile), but his big, overarching thesis is that INVOICE PRICE HAS NO BASIS IN FACT. I tend to believe him. 15 years ago, before we all knew the exact invoice price, dealers had a much larger spread between Invoice and MSRP. Now that spread is a few thousand dollars at most. It’s still valuable as a comparison tool because the whole country has the same invoice price, but the next time a salesperson tells you that invoice price is “their cost”, you should laugh at them. We have no idea and won’t have any idea how much any particular vehicle costs. Which is fine. You just want the cheapest OTD price. You shouldn’t care how they got to that price (holdback, incentive, doc fees, year-end-quota). He also wonders why we care what an “average price paid” was through truecar.com when none of us want to be average.

    7) I signed up at: Carwoo.com (okay to get an idea of names and price ranges of internet dealers), Edmunds/Truecar/USAA/AAA/Costco/cars.com. This was just to collect names and e-mails and to see what the general public was paying. Costco is a valuable service that charges about $500 over invoice at the time I was shopping. If I was short of time, or less OCD about data, I’d definitely do it that way. You walk in and sign. I also tried carhound.com, which is like an online car broker, but they came in several thousand dollars higher.

    8) Everyone should read the following post before buying. This guy makes my record-keeping and data collection look like small potatoes. He tracked VINs for Pete’s sake. http://www.piloteers.org/forums/5-your-experience/31956-how-you-should-buy-your-- next-new-vehicle.html

    9) Finally, http://www.realcartips.com/guide/newcars.shtml said kinda the same thing.

    10) I test drove about six weeks before purchase target date. I told them that they were my first stop of five stops. Honda, Hyundai, Kia, Toyota, Subaru. Of course, I already knew what I wanted, but they didn’t have to know that. I tried out a few things on the test drive, but didn’t really put the car through the paces. Don’t let them run your credit. Keep your drivers license in view if you can. As I was walking off the lot, a young (kinda sleazy) floor manager asked me to step inside to run some numbers. I politely declined. I didn’t step inside another dealership until well AFTER I had purchased my new car.

    11) I aimed for the last few days of December. I must be honest here, though we all believe it, I’m not entirely convinced that my timing resulted in any savings at all. I bought on December 28th. A Friday. After purchase, my sales guy made no mention of my timing after I asked.

    12) I sent out feelers for sales people through my social media universe. My klout.com score is 63, for those of you who know what that means. I have a pretty large online social circle. This led to three contacts at three different places. I added them to my spreadsheet.

    13) Then I added every sales person who had responded to carwoo, costco, cars.com, edmunds, truecar, etc.

    14) Then came the first difficulty. How do you find e-mail addresses for internet sales managers without calling them (I’m no fan of the telephone)? The honda website has links, but you have to change your zip code around to get a full list. I aimed for within 50 miles of my south bay area home. In some cases, the individual dealer websites had e-mail addresses. But most didn’t.

    15) I wrote my e-mail asking for a specific model and options and assuring them that I’d buy within 48 hours. I told them I would only accept e-mailed quotes. I wanted to sound informed, but not know-it-all-ish. I mentioned invoice, dealer holdback, my credit score, their satisfaction survey, and gave them three ways to contact me.

    16) I felt some loyalty to the guy who let me test drive from my local walking distance dealership. But throughout this entire process, he never once responded to any of my multiple e-mails. In fact, the e-mail address on his business card bounced. Believe it or not, when I got home from a new car joyride the day after I purchased, he had left a message asking me if I was still interested. #fail.

    17) California has an upper limit on document fees. $80. I feel sorry for Florida right about now. On the other hand, I had to pay 8.375% sales tax, so you can feel sorry for me right about now. There’s a tire fee and a DMV electronic registration fee and whatnot, but all I cared about was the price of my car, plus my two options. I was afraid my two options would make comparisons difficult, but they were mostly in the same ballpark in terms of cost plus installation ($402--$557). I got a price before TTL from all interested dealerships.

    18) I sent out 39 e-mails. Yes, 39. At 23 dealerships. From two blocks away to 62 miles away (a place I heard had good deals). Yes, in some cases I sent more than one e-mail to a single dealership. This may have caused some internal strife. One recommended salesman couldn’t work with me because his team had alr
  • hondafan31hondafan31 Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    darrin8
    I live in VA and used a quote from Weymouth to negotiate my deal from a VA dealership. Two months ago I purchased an Accord 2013 EX-L V6 no navi. Price paid was $27,794 (includes Destination Fee), $55 for wheel locks, $399 Processing fee plus VA sales tax and tags. There was no trade involved, just a new car purchase. Car dealership is in Stafford VA (Pohanka Honda). I researched pricing on the Weymouth website and secured a quote $27,794 from the Weymouth dealership (includes Destination Fee) plus a $239 processing fee. The Weymouth quote addressed the process associated with an out of state purchase. I took a copy of the Weymouth quote to Pohanka Honda and negotiated a very comparable deal. The Pohanka deal was based on the same price quoted by Weymouth for the car plus Pohanka's $399 processing fee, ($160 difference).
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