Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1143514361438144014411570

Comments

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 163
    Whether or not you have told the salesman you are a first time buyer, he has probably figured that out. That prices seems very good, even for a savvy negotiator. I will be very surprised if the sales manager signs off on that deal unless you go for some unnecessary or expensive options. Be firm and prepared to walk. (One clue is if you didn't have to work too hard to get $25,500, it probably isn't real.) Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • thawdathawda Posts: 17
    Actually, I have to emailed and called over 30 dealership. I did some bidding process about that car for over a week. They started to beat each other prices. May I know what you mean by some unnecessary or expensive options?
  • buyer157buyer157 Posts: 40
    Hi all...since I've gotten so much from everyone else, posting the latest.

    Original dealer called me back to tell me he had the exact color I wanted coming in and gave me a quote of 250 below invoice. I told him that I had already agreed to purchase from another dealer and at the terms established.

    Long story short, he added 500 in flex cash, wheel locks, mats, cargo tray and mud flaps (installed) plus 1 year of maintenance to secure my business. Since I would have purchased all of these things on line (and had the flaps installed) for around 350-400, I figure that saves me another 550 over my previous "best" deal.

    So CVT Sport: 22720 - 500 - 22220 + wheel locks, mats, cargo tray and maintenance.
    Exact model and color, fresh from the factory. Never even been test driven. Only fee I'm being charged is 75 for doc.

    Based on brian's dead on coaching, I think there is probably another 2-300 $ in there to go get, but since I am particular about color and timing (need to take possession in the next two weeks) I'm starting to feel that I did okay. I should also mention that this dealer is 10 minutes from my house. Other dealers were up to an hour away. A pain if you ever have trouble with the car. This dealer also has stellar satisfaction ratings.

    Brian - I'm still interested in what you learn from Staten Island on Thursday on a white sport...just to keep these guys honest. For another 1-200$ I'm not going to sweat it. For 500, I'll have an issue.

    Biggest thing I'm having trouble wrapping my head around is the new price delta between the Sport and the LX. Based on this board, what was originally around 1400 OTD is now 2k due to the relative ratio of LXs on the lots vs Sports. I just keep telling myself that what I spend now will partially come back to me in trade in/resale value later. In the meantime, I can enjoy the tighter driving dynamics, much nicer interior and the improved exterior posture of the vehicle. I just won't tell my wife how much more I'm actually spending for 4 extra horsepower ;-)
  • thawdathawda Posts: 17
    Hey Bryan,

    I got that Honda for 25500 (OTD). Is that a good deal ?Should I go take it or wait more?
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 163
    They might try to sell you paint protection, leather protection, an expensive extended warranty (you can shop for a Honda warranty from another dealer after you make your purchase) etc. They will try to make you feel foolish for not buying add-ons. Don't take it personal, everyone in sales and finance are working on commission. If you drive off in your new Honda after giving them $25.5K, be proud of yourself but I don't think they are going to make it easy for you.
  • buyer157buyer157 Posts: 40
    On this topic...anyone actually find that buying Honda Care was a GOOD financial decision? Generally speaking, we buy Honda's as they are reliable vehicles and Honda is selling warranty coverage as a fat margin upsell. If they weren't profitable for them, they wouldn't offer them.

    I've also heard that people have had difficulty making them pay for repairs. This is my thinking going in...to simply decline. Am I stupid?
  • thawdathawda Posts: 17
    Should I buy those extended warranty?? What kind of warranty are good?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,041
    edited June 2013
    Buyer

    Take the deal. its 10 mins from your house..
    I can tell you getting you 500 below invoice price on your model plus flex cash is 100% do-able.
    If you want to travel 1 hour in light traffic to me i'll make it happen saving you 250 dollars.

    If you want to wait till the end of June you most likely will save more.
    your model is a harder buy due to supply and demand.

    I suggest if your not going to call or email about 30 dealerships the last days of June... to take the offer from your mentioned dealership. No dealer is going to give you much better than 500 dollars below invoice on June 10th.

    Make dealer closest to your house sweat it out......tell them your buying at the end of the month. You have lower offers.. I would think you could knock off a couple off hundred more.

    You play the game at month's End.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,041
    Thawda,

    Good price go for it.. Stay away from anything the dealer wants to sell you. Just say thankyou No ,No ,NO

    Huskerfan has posted some good advice re read what he has said and go get your Accord. Let us know how you did..

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 163
    Thanks Brian.

    Thawda, I did a search for EXL, OTD, and VA. Seems like someone paid $26.1K in May so with flex cash, the $25.5K may be possible. Hold firm but don't be surprised if the sales manager says that salesman made a mistake and you can't do the deal at the price. He will counter offer. If it is not a lot more, make a counter offer yourself. If it is a lot more, just start walking out and keep walking unless he comes back with a more reasonable offer, then start negotiating again. It's not a contest to get the lowest price in this forum, you just want to get a good deal and if you have to go a little above $25.5K you're still doing good, especially at this time of the month
  • thawdathawda Posts: 17
    I wasn't going with valley Honda anymore. Another dealership has beaten their price with OTD 25.5k. I have not asked them the detailed pricing from theirs. They just said the OTD since I only told them it is a deal if they could give me 25.5k .
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 163
    Regarding warranties, they wouldn't be sold unless they made money for the dealer and warranty company. Some people will come out ahead, most won't. If it makes you sleep better at night, consider one. You can buy it after you purchase the car and you can buy it from any Honda dealer so shop around if you want one. Stay away from third party companies.
  • jatanjatan Posts: 92
    If you want an extended warranty then get it from an online Honda dealer, here's the warranty thread: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef0eeb7?displayRecent
  • mjk14mjk14 Posts: 12
    msrp- 24789 or around there
    dealer offered 22400 minus 500 flex cash= 21900
    doc fee 215
    reg 95
    nj tax 7%

    OTD is approximate 23780 plus or minus a few dollars, I don't have the exact numbers of doc fee and reg but am sure on vehicle price. I also received another offer similar to this on the same vehicle at another dealer. The one offer was 416/month and the other was 414/month (0 down, 1.9% for 60). Seems fair but curious what others thought.
  • buyer157buyer157 Posts: 40
    hey MJK. That seems in line.

    My price is about 350 more than yours, but I'm receiving 450 dollars worth of stuff ( mats, cargo tray, mudflaps installed, wheellocks, 75$ in service credits). Since I would have purchased these things anyway to protect and preserve value, it does represent real value to me.

    NY has a lower average doc fee (75$) than NJ, but higher tax 8.625%, so my OTD will be higher.

    I'm sure if you wait a month or two, prices on remaining 2013s will start to drop more aggressively, but it is a trade off.

    Will you be able to get the color you want or forced to pick from remaining stock, how much is your current vehicle costing you, etc?.
  • FYI, I bought my Honda Accord Sport last week - $23,094. Here is the formula: sticker price $24,980 - 7.5% ($1873) = $23,106 - this price include tax, tag, Freight and processing fee. Good luck
  • Hello, I secured a deal from Casey Honda in Newport News, VA

    2013 Honda Accord Touring- Basque Red Pearl

    Sale Price 30,957.66

    OTD 32,318.00

    Tell me if I did okay :)
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 179
    Wrong formula. Never start at MSRP. Always start at invoice.

    A better formula is to start with invoice amount which is available on Edmunds, subtract dealer holdback also available on Edmunds for the invoice amount, then subtract any incentives both to the dealer and customer from the invoice amount.

    That net amount is an approximation of the dealer's cost. Never be able to really determine the dealer's actual cost due to hidden incentives. But this formula provides a reasonable starting point for determining the price you would like to pay.

    Add a profit amount to the net amount calculated above and begin negotations from that point.

    Always move up from your calculated amount in small increments. Never allow negotations to move down from MSRP. That will almost always result in a higher price.

    Consider any dealer fees not required by the Government, such as documentation fees, as part of the net price. Such fees are not a cost they are part of the price.

    If you want to learn from a dealer about documentation fees, check out Earl Stewart On Cars. Very insightful information from a car dealer.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,041
    edited June 2013
    When you negotiate a price with any dealer the starting formula is always

    Invoice price minus Hold-back
    minus any cash incentives/ rebates
    minus doc fee's.

    There is no reason to add a profit back to dealer on this starting number. Most of the time the above formula should be your starting point. Dealer is still making a profit.. Middle to End of the year model prices are lower due to more incentive money to dealerships so you need to adjust your asking price.

    At this point and time you can get this whole formula on a Accord plus another 6 or 700 dollars depending on your region and how good you can negotiate. Usually to close on a deal in excess of 1300 below invoice it has to be done at the end of the month.

    Ken is right.............. Everybody buying a new vehicle needs to question and fight these high doc fee charges/ admin fee's. You negotiate a good deal and give back 400 to 700 dollars.

    Every vehicle i buy the first 2 questions i ask the internet mangers are
    1- what are your doc fee's
    2- will you remove them for the sale of this vehicle today.
    3- If the answer is no i adjust my asking price to buy.
    Cant get any simpler.
    Same applies to all you guys who go from one dealer to the next.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,041
    Hey BUYER

    Had a miserable flight home from Myrtle Beach last night. Bad delays got in late.

    What did you decide on your Accord Sport did you buy it yet.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

Sign In or Register to comment.