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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    mistersc - don't get discouraged - when a salesperson gets sarcastic with you,or plays dumb, it is usually because he/she is trying to gain control and portray themselves as more knowledgeable than you. You know better than this because you are arming yourself with information that will eventually allow you to gain the upper hand. Just keep plugging away, develop your buying technique based on the advice you receive here, and you will soon be able to recognize the good dealers and sales folks who want to compete for your business and ignore the not so good.

    Take care,

    Bill G
  • I received an offer for 300 per month, 2075 upfront plus DMV fee. 2013 4dr accord EX-L with no Nav. Capitol cost of 25,500.
  • I got quote for honda accord exl 2014 for $30000 OTR means everything included in this price.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited September 2013
    Can you break down your deal, by listing the following:

    Sales price including destination fee (without any incentives):
    Dealer doc fees:
    Title and registration fees:
    Dealer add-ons:
    Sales Tax (rate is fine)
    Any incentives
  • Flex cash is only available on 2013 models. You still have ten more days to go before the end of the month, so do not get discouraged at all. Do not waste your time with dealerships who play games. Their plan is to frustrate you.

    If you can negotiate anywhere between $500 to $800 below invoice the last two days of this month, then that will be a good deal. If not and you can wait, I would recommend trying again at the end of next month.

    Good luck and let us know what happens.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    With 2075 and DMV fees up front, your payment is actually around $370 per month. You need to provide an itemized breakdown of your deal before any of us can give you an opinion.

    Thanks, Bill G
  • Here are some details I just received on 2013 Accord EX-L, no nav, 4 cyl CVT:
    MSRP: $28,785
    12k, 36 months
    Residual 53%, adjusted to 55%
    Gross residual $15,831.75
    Money factor: 0.00075
    Monthly Depreciation: $346.89
    Monthly lease charge: $33.11
    original taxable base: $12,267.72
    7% NJ tax
    $858.74 tax amount

    selling price $26,349.42
    DMV $516.50
    Acq fee: $595
    Doc fee: $289
    Cap cost $28,319.66

    Only out of pocket is $380, which is the first payment.
    then $380 monthly thereafter.

    I turned it down. he quoted me a lower before, but lo and behold, it's now higher on paper. that's the best I can do. yada yada yada.

    appreciate your thoughts.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited September 2013
    Good thing you turned down this deal, because the sale price you were quoted is only $49.58 below invoice.

    That's one of the worse deals I have seen on a 2013 model at this time of the year, even on a lease.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,410
    MSRP.....................................28,785
    Selling price..........................- 26,349
    Total........................................2436 .........below invoice
    doc fee's...................................- 289

    total .......................................2147 below invoice price????

    Your sales price deal looks good to me.. Did i miss something here?

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    You might be able to get a better lease deal on a 2014 because the residual will most likely be higher which should lower your payment. But, as blue points out, that selling price needs a lot of work. I recommend switching to a 2014 and finding a dealer willing to compete for your business with a competitive price.

    Good luck,

    Bill G
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Brian - invoice is around $26.4?

    Bill
  • Bill,
    Give Brian a pass. My tee shot hit Brian in the forehead while he was at the hot dog stand.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Ha - and here I thought he was posting from the 19th hole.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,410
    See this is what happens when your in the sun to long.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I agree with Bill. You might be able to get a better deal on a 2014 model.

    Your main goal would be to focus on the sale price of the car, since the numbers used to calculate the lease (Money Factor, Residual Value and acquisition fee) are not going to change from dealer to dealer.
  • just some follow-up questions:
    Aside from the selling price of the car, the only other things I can negotiate on are fees, correct? Appreciate any advice on tactics to achieve that.

    Lastly, at the end of the day, despite all the lease calculations we are all doing, etc, aren't we really trying to lessen the amount we spend on a car over the life of the lease?
    So in this case, the deal I turned down, I would have spent a total of $13,680 ($380x36) in payments on this car. Can we look at a lease in this way? just curious.

    thanks. I'll start looking at 2014s.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Usually, the only fee that is negotiable is the dealer doc fee. Some dealers won't budge on their doc fee - if that's the case, do your best to get them to reduce the selling price to lessen the impact of the doc fee. If you can negotiate the lowest selling price possible, and receive the best lease money factor appropriate to your credit score, then the total cost of your lease will take care of itself.

    Bill
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    We got you Brian - huskerfan says that's the second mistake you've made this year. I think maybe you were just testing us.

    Bill
  • Actually, that is not a good way to look at a lease. Your monthly payment is a combination of depreciation on the vehicle and interest expense. You would lessen the total payments over the lease as you increase the amount you pay at signing since that will result in less interest but you don't want to do that. Anything you pay at signing is lost should the car be stolen or totalled in an accident so I always recommend getting 36 equal monthly payments with the amount due at signing representing the first payment. Yes, it will be a few more dollars over the life of the lease than if you made a down payment or paid fees and taxes at inception but it should be considered really cheap insurance.
    btw, I live I NJ and that DMV charge looks too high, even with new plates. I believe it's against the law to markup DMV fees in NJ but I would question the dealer.
  • I don't recall Brian making another mistake but I have to admit to some. I know of two that I made in the leasing forum but the biggest one I ever made in this forum I made earlier this week.
    After writing my piece on doc fees, I gave my protaganist an out (I won't name names) by saying I bet he's a smart guy but did not articulate well what he is actually doing, but after reading his reply, I definitely got that part regarding him being a smart guy wrong :)
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