Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1153215331535153715381570

Comments

  • Isell, have you ever owned a V6? I always drove a 4cyl until 2006 when I got my Maxima...I can't ever go back. I travel locally in my job in a small city, so I need to have some power to get on the hwy, maneuver thru traffic, etc. To me, there's a big difference between the 4cyl and V6 in the Accord..Again its all relative and what you're used to. I do like how you have the Economy button if you want to save on gas mileage...run the car more efficiently.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    Had you not driven the V-6 you **may** have been completely happy with the 4. I watched that happen sometimes. Shoppers were ready to pull the trigger on a 4 cyl and "just for kicks" would decide to try out a V-6 and they would then want the V-6.

    My only point was, for most people, the 4 cyl is more than up for the task. I know I wouldn't pay for a V-6.

    As far as NEEDS go, I watched time and time again as people who were on a tight budget seemed to always NEED a sunroof, leather, rear wings etc.

    The radio thing is a joke especially since they are under warranty.

    As far as those little red and black dots, using an example, I think it was 1996 Accords that got a red dot for brakes and in 1997, the dot was half black.

    Nothing was changed between those two years so go figure?
  • So is the radio in 2014 the same as in the 2014 or has there been an upgrade in the software, etc? I asked my salesperson and he said he hadn't heard of the problem...yeah, right! Should I take it I and complain? On a scale of 1-10, it's about a 4...and I am not a stereo person.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    capegirl,

    I have owned cars that make a V-6 Accord look like a motor scooter as far as power go's.

    But, as someone else said if you REALLY feel you need a V-6 then that's what you should buy!

    I never have the slightest problem merging into traffic or maneuvering through traffic in our 4 cyl CRVS.

    But...that's me.
  • I had a 1996 Accord and drove it for 280,000 miles, and we had no issues with brakes except for changing them out at normal intervals...
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    @isell: Sure, if I never drove the V6 I'd probably be "OK" with the 4. We're coming from a BMW, and when I got my wife into the I4 she basically said "yeah, sure, it's fine....but doesn't have that "feel" that the BMW has" She's not a huge car person so would have taken it if that's what I pushed for. But after driving both, I want to splurge and get the one that feels better. I keep cars for a long time, and I don't want to always go "yeah I wish I had the smoother car, but I did save $1,650 8 years ago on it".

    It's not that the I4 doesn't have power and can't get up and go....it's just much more animated when doing so. You can hear and feel the engine winding up, the CVT is popping the revs all over the place, and the car even had sort of a mild "lurching" as it accelerated. The V6 is just smooth and more stately....you apply gas, and the car accelerates more quietly and without all the hysterics. I'm being a bit hyperbolic on the I4 by the way...it's not that bad, and for just putt putting around town it will do a fine job. And at idle the 4 banger sounded much more rough to me than the V6 did. Almost a bit of diesel "clatter" to it.

    I totally agree if an LX or EX is good enough, then I wouldn't pay up for a V6. But if you were gonna go EXL I4 anyway, it's really not that much more to get EXL V6.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    edited November 2013
    I hear you and I totally understand.

    Better to pay a bit more than to "settle" on something you aren't 100% happy with.

    For raw power, I do miss my GTO and my Impala SS 409.

    I DON'T miss getting 7 MPG on premium!

    And, I REALLY don't miss the tickets I got on a monthly basis.
  • No problem. If you decide to buy Altima feel free to ping me and I can provide some numbers. If you happen to decide Altima, I would advice to buy it soon because there are big incentives available from Nissan. This will help you to save some more money.

    @capegirl5: I personally feel that it is an injustice to put 2013 Altima in the same boat as Maxima 2004. 2013/14 Altima models are redesigned to mainly target Camry and Accord family sedan segment. I am not saying Accord is bad in any case, because I personally own one and I am satisfied. I also considered Altima when I was in market to buy a vehicle in 2007, but it did not justify the investment due to their safety and overall reliability ratings at that time. All those things are changed since then, and Consumer Report would agree with it as well. I too have a back and neck problem for past 10 years and seat comfort was one of my first criteria as well. I though have to agree that I don't have previous Altima ownership experience, but according to my opinion I could not justify to pay $3k to $4k more to buy similarly equipped Accord. Accord has given me so much of trouble with their Battery life (using 3rd battery in 6 years of ownership) and my brother bought Accord in 2008 after my recommendation at that time, and he also has mechanical issues with its suspension in his 2008 Accord. Even though with these issues in Accord, I still like it. But buying another Accord for a higher price upfront than Nissan....... I was not convinced.

    Good luck with your new purchase! :)
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,395
    I agree - don't settle, especially on a car purchase that will cost you dearly in depreciation if you go to trade it in sooner rather than later.

    isellhondas - there is no reason for the V6 other than some people want the "extra punch" or "think" that they don't want a 4cyl car. Modern technology such as direct injection, CVTs, & 8 speed automatics have vastly improved the acceleration "feel" of modern 4cyl. Honda 4cyl engines are as good as they come as far as I'm concerned.

    My current 2001 Honda Prelude Type SH (150K miles) will get smoked by any run of the mill V6 powered family sedan from a stop light, but on the highway has no trouble cruising at speeds much higher than those posted in NY & CT.

    The last speeding ticket I received was while driving my former (4cyl) 2010 Acura TSX. I was clocked going 81 in a 55. I was going faster than that before I saw the state trooper.

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • dinob661dinob661 Posts: 3
    edited November 2013
    Hello all. First Post, This is my first new car negotiation, and I want to do a good job :).

    The MSRP for the Car was: 26,220 (including destination fee)

    So I went to the Honda dealership to check out the new Honda 2014 EX Accord and got a chance to discuss some pricing with the dealer. from another dealership I was quoted 24,700 (not including tax, etc.). Since it was the end of the month this dealership came at me with this offer, and please tell me what you think!:

    Dealer offer Price: 24,000 (Not including tax,etc.)
    - Lifetime engine warranty

    and This deal is not including these incentives which I qualify for
    -Recent Graduate 500$
    -Flex Cash 500$

    The Destination fee is: 790$

    Thanks for any advice.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited November 2013
    Welcome to the Forum.

    Let me try and break down the pricing on 2013 and 2014 models for the Accord EX.

    The MSRP for the 2013 Accord EX CVT is $26,195 (including destination fee). Invoice price is $24,037 (including destination fee). If you are considering buying a 2013 model, the price needs to be at least $1500 below invoice before any incentives for it to be a decent deal. Given the supply and demand of the 2013 models, I am yet to see or hear anyone get $2000 below invoice before any incentives. That would be a great deal.

    With regards to the 2014 model, the MSRP is $26,470 (including destination fee). Its invoice price is $24,288 (about $251 more than the 2013 model). Hence, the dealer price of $24,000 you were quoted is not such a great deal if it includes the destination fee. If that price does not include the destination fee, I would recommend walking away from this offer since you would be paying more than $500 above invoice price.

    With regards to the lifetime engine warranty being offered, you need to ask the dealer whether it is free or if there is a fee associated with it (make sure to ask about any fine print). If you do not receive an answer that makes sense, move on to the next dealer. Honda offers a 3 year/36,000 mile new vehicle limited warranty. You can read more about Honda's warranty here: http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-sedan/warranty.aspx.

    Before proceeding with your car search, you need to ask yourself these questions:

    1. How soon do you want to buy a car? Do you need one asap?
    2. Do you care about the exterior and interior color?
    3. Are you planning to finance through Honda?
    4. Have you reached out to more dealerships for internet quotes?
    5. Do you plan to trade in a car?

    When requesting internet quotes from dealers, here is the info you should be requesting:

    1. Sale price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any dealer add-ons or incentives)
    2. Dealer documentation fees
    3. Registration fee
    4. Cost of any dealer add-ons (if you plan to purchase accessories)
    5. Incentives (You mentioned $500 recent grad and $500 flex cash)

    Make sure when dealers quote you the sale price of the car it includes the destination fee BUT does not include any incentives. If you are not sure, make sure to ask them to clarify. It will help you determine whether you are getting a good deal. If you plan to buy a 2014 model, $500 to $1000 below invoice is a good deal at this time of the year.

    Read up on some of my previous posts for more info. Good luck and let us know how things go.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    I'm not so sure your Prelude would get smoked by a V-6. Once you hit 5000 RPM and that Vtec kicks in those things would SCREAM!

    As far as tickets, how about NINE in one year including three in the same week. Two of those three were on the same day by the same cop.

    Nothing I'm proud of. Funny now but not then and, no, somehow, my Ins. Co. never found out.

    No tickets now since I was about 25. had to finally grow up (?)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    Don't pay attention to my username. I retired three years ago but still keep my head poked in the door.

    I would place zero value on that "lifetime" engine warranty. Read the fine print and the exclusions.

    You also have to follow a strict maintenance program and have ALL of your services done at that store.

    Nothing is ever "free".
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    The life of a car battery has nothing to do with the quality of the car in which it's installed. It's the quality of the BATTERY that is in question.

    I used to tell my customers to replace the battery after five years. They usually last at least that long. My next door neighbor made it to TEN years on the 1996 Accord I sold them.

    I figure it's best to replace the battery on MY terms than to get stranded somewhere or have my wife get stranded.

    Five years is enough!
  • Five Years for one battery is acceptable. But 2 dead batteries in 6 years and
    vehicle running on 3rd battery is acceptable?

    I know you sell your Hondas, so as a seller I am sure as a seller it's difficult to admit any issues with a product you sell but as a buyer any bad part sold by the manufacturer factors into overall quality issue of a product. Honda recently compensated me for the battery issue I experienced with my Accord. If a manufacture does not take a responsibility of any third party parts installed on their product, then why should they install in the first place?

    I think you took my post in a wrong sense :) My goal was to suggest Altima to OP as one of the buying option to consider while searching for a new sedan vehicle, and I shared my personal experience with Accord.

    Cheers!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    Actually I retired three years ago after being in the same Honda store for nearly 14 years. I do not have a dog in the fight wnd even when I did, I never blindly defended Honda. I always tried to be forthcoming and objective as the veterans here will (I hope) agree.

    No, two dead batteries in 6 years isn't acceptable UNLESS you live in an extreme climate. In Phoenix or Fairbanks, the extreme heat is murder on ANY car battery.

    When I worked managing a huge Auto Center for Sears years ago, the batteries we sold usually outlasted the warranty period but not always.

    That is why we warranteed them, same as a car manufacturer will.

    Again, not the car's fault and that's what I thought you were trying to imply.

    Your experience I have to say was unusual unless you live in an extreme climate where three years will destroy the best of batteries.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited June 2013
    My Odyssey battery was getting weak after only 3.5 years so I replaced it with a Costco. From what I understand, OEM Honda batteries often only last 3-4 years.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    " Honda batteries often only last 3-4 years"

    That's true and sometimes (my neighbor) they can last ten.

    Odysseys have a lot of electrical demands and depending on climate 3-4 years can do them in.

    Actually I believe there are only three battery manufactures in the US anymore. they all private brand so there is a good chance that that Costco battery came out of the same factory that the Honda one did.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    OK veterans.....so I've gone through my 20 dealers, I've got probably 4-6 who seem reasonable to work with and are throwing around pretty low prices. Each one is professing to want to "do whatever it takes to earn my business" and "we won't be undersold" and all that. SOOOO, what is the best strategy from here to the final sale? BTW I have done lots of talking to them about my trade in price and have basically determined that I should just sell the car on Craigslist. I have trouble believing there is much risk of me NOT being able to sell at least at the prices they are offering, and probably much more. So that makes the Honda buying process more simple...all about the price. So where to go for the final push? I can think of two ideas.....

    1) Tell all of them that there are a number of different dealers who all seem to want this business, and while I appreciate everyone's time thus far, I can't buy a car from each of them. So to BE FAIR I would like a BEST AND FINAL number from each dealer, and I will decide from there. There will be no more "callbacks" and I will buy a car from the winner.

    2) Call one at a time and throw out a number that is BELOW the lowest current quote (but how much??) and tell them "I have 8 dealers on my list.....you are the first (can tell each of them that)....I will give you a credit card for the deposit right now if you agree to $XYZ price, but I need to know in [5] minutes otherwise I will call the next guy down the list.

    1 or 2? Or something different. On #1 you know you still have some "out" as you WILL get a lowest number by definition. But it might not be THE lowest number if all the dealers don't truly give you a lowest number because they assume you are still in bidding mode regardless of what you promise. And they don't want to get into round after round of this junk.

    The nice thing about 2 is it puts a real live credit card hunk of meat right in front of the tiger. The tiger has to choose whether he just wants to eat the steak or if he doesn't, the steak will be removed from his plate in 5 minutes..... It COULD be the best way to really stretch them on price. BUT, the issue I see is you have to decide on a number that means you're not leaving too much on the table, but if you throw out an offer too low, you will have the embarrassing prospect of making it all the way through your list and have all NOs. Then you call back the dealer sheepishly and say "well I guess nobody wanted to sell at that price....so how about...." That could be weird.

    Any other ideas? How about a hybrid (as I think out loud...) "Ok Mr Dealer, I have a list of 8 people who all want to sell me the car. I will buy it for [$XYZ right now] and if you can hit that I will give you my credit card. If you can't hit that, then please give me your best and final offer, but know that you are the first one I'm calling and I will make the same offer to 7 other dealers. I'm being nice by giving you the first shot, but if you choose to give me a higher bid then of course that still might work, but there will be no "callbacks" and I will decide on the lowest price (unless of course one of the other 7 dealers chooses to accept my offer now. I need to know in [5? 10?] minutes."
  • Can you list some of the quotes you have received so far?

    I will let Brian and other veterans chime in.
Sign In or Register to comment.