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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Posts: 242
    edited November 2013
    Here is some advice when asking for internet quotes. This is the information you should specifically ask for from dealers:

    1. Sales price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any incentives)
    2. Dealer documentation fees
    3. Title and registration fees (should be the same across all dealers in your state)
    4. Dealer add-ons
    5. Incentives such as flex cash (if you are financing through Honda, you will receive $500 towards your down payment)

    If a dealer does not provide you with all the required information above, you can remind them about it. But after a second request, if you feel they are playing games then move on to the next dealership on your list.

    Once you have all this information, you can focus on the dealerships who have the lowest sales price and actually have the car on their lot. If dealer A has the lowest price of the car and dealer B has the second lowest price, I would recommend keeping dealer B as a backup in case your deal with dealer A falls through.

    Before going into the dealership to close the deal, make sure the car is on their lot in the color you want with (or without) the accessories you want. If a dealer tries to convince you to come into their dealership to get a good price on the car, do not fall for that trick. Let them know that you'd rather do all negotiations via email/phone. You should only be going into the dealership to close the deal by inspecting the car, and signing the paperwork.

    IMPORTANT: Always remember that you are in control. If you are about to close the deal and the sales guy (or a manager) decides to play games by adding some "hidden fees" to the purchase or had lied to you, feel free to walk out of the dealership. You can take your business to your backup dealership.

    Good luck.
  • Are any of these 2014 new plug-in Accords on the market yet?
  • Probably not going to pan out, but I sent emails to 3 dealers I've been communicating with to see if any will sell me a 2014 Accord EX-L for 25,000 with dest. fee ALREADY added in and $500 honda loan incentive ALREADY subtracted out. The lowest offer I've had up until today is $25,499 and maybe that's the best I can get in my area. (That prices includes Dest. Fee and the $500 incentive).

    Have heard from 2 of the 3 dealers within a few minutes and both tell me that their Internet offer is their very best offer - one is the 25,499 and the other is 26,2XX, with the 3rd dealer being the lowest volume one in the group. The $26+ dealer told me that there's a new Lease Incentive out today ---- an addition $800 off the price.

    If I have money to BUY a car, when does doing a Lease make sense?
  • You can try reaching out to other dealerships at the end of the month.

    Are you thinking of leasing or financing the car?
  • ash31ash31 Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    I live in bay area and I am looking to buy Accord LX. Anyone made a similar purchase or in the market for this car, please share your experience.
  • gem52gem52 Posts: 2
    Did anyone buy a 2014 Accord Sport recently and care to share their buying and price experience? Tampa Bay Area
  • The preference is to BUY, not Lease, because we like to pass our old cars on to family members, but when we heard about the incentive, it made us think a little about a lease.

    To take advantage of the $500 incentive, you have to finance, so we will for that reason alone and for shortest amount of time possible.

    Yeah, I guess we'll wait til month end. Trying to save a few hundred may not be worth the continued irritation of dealing with salespeople. No offense to anyone in sales (and I've been there myself at times), but I'm just not patient enough to hear the same thing over and over. It's easy to see why some people prefer just to pay the asking price and be done with it! And yes, I know this forum is for the others of us.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited November 2013
    Georgette - a couple suggestions.

    1) make a decision to buy vs lease not just based on whether there is an extra 300 incentive (800 vs 500). It's a totally different "ownership" experience (actually its not ownership)....if you want to make monthly payments, and worry about not driving it too many miles, and worry about damaging it, etc, then lease might be OK. I've always preferred straight-up ownership because I typically own cars for long periods of time, and don't value the ability to "turn back the car to the dealer" at the end of a lease.

    2) once you get your initial "good" internet quotes, I suggest you then need to move to the phone and start TALKING to some of these internet managers. Develop a "relationship" and let them see you are a real live buyer, and not some faceless robot emailing in the background. In terms of how to "stretch" them, you are indeed correct that you need to make an offer that is lower than their current internet quote. They will resist of course, and say that their internet quote is their "best quote". Why should they just start negotiating against THEMSELVES? For all they know, they are the lowest dealer, or the only dealer, you are speaking with. So it doesn't carry as much water to PHRASE your ask as "would'ya sell for $25k when your quote is $25.5". You haven't given them a compelling reason to change their quote, and you just sound like you're fishing.

    So what I think you need to do is recognize you have multiple dealers in the mix. This is where it gets tricky. Let's say ALL 3 DEALERS are at 25,499, 24,550 and 24,600. How do you get to 25,000 flat? First of all, do you have evidence (from this board) that 25,000 flat is an achievable number? (I haven't paid attention to your specific trim line since I was shopping for a V6). IF it is, then you'll need to stretch the dealer. I'd suggest you speak with the HIGHEST dealer and tell him that you appreciate his quote, but you have another quote for 25,001 and therefore you are going to head over to that other dealer TOMORROW MORNING AND BUY THE CAR. And wait and just see what he says. Maybe the number you use is 25,250, I dunno. It is whatever number you think is achievable but it needs to be believable too. You can't say "Oh yeah I've got another dealer at 22,500" They'll know you're a liar.

    First, he will say "that sounds too low. They're probably tricking you, by not including Destination, or by including options that they will spring on you" You need to say "No, I am very careful as you can tell, and I've asked all those questions. I've confirmed that I can buy the car for [$25,001] plus tax, title and license." Then one of two things will happen. He will either say "ok well that is way far from what we can do, good luck" or he will say "let me check with my manager and come right back to you". The key is that you say "I AM GOING TO BUY THE CAR TOMORROW". This means that this is his last shot, so if he has any room in his price, he knows that he needs to act now otherwise he loses you.

    This is basically the same thing as Brian's method, although I gather that Brian just calls the various internet guys and says "I want to buy the car for 25,001....if you can hit that price I will buy it from you today and I'll be in there in 60 mins to start the paperwork". That's another (or maybe the same) way to do this. The risk to this strategy is that you strike out on all accounts, then you're left with no car and you've lost some cred. I guess since you're phrasing it as I WANT TO buy the car at 25,001, you're not actually saying you can. Depends on whether you're willing to wait. In MY personal case, I only "stretched" by 150 bucks. I had a lowest internet quote, and then I called a few other dealers and just made an offer of 150 less than my lowest quote. I DID NOT TOUCH MY LOWEST DEALER for fear of messing up that best quote. Best case I get someone to bite 150 bucks lower, worst case nobody bites and I just go buy the car at the lowest quote. Turned out somebody DID bite, so I went with that one. And I was satisfied that it was a great price because I had already worked the quotes a lot and I hadn't seen ANYONE buying for this low of a price on this board or others. Now, I've seen a few other posters have been matching my price on the V6.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 1,993
    Call all your targeted dealerships on NOV, 29th. Speak only to the internet managers.

    Let each dealership know you will buy at the end of the month for 25k. Tell each manager the 1st dealer to reach my offer of 25k gets my business and the sale that moment.

    You will have your answer on price that day or dealers best price by the end of............. Nov.

    Do not drive from one dealership to the next... Secure your lowest price by phone or online then go to dealership.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 1,993
    Make sure you and dealership are on the same page price wise..
    Include dest/ charge in your offer price.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Just bought a 2014 Sport 6 speed manual in the New Orleans area. MSRP was $ 24505 including destination charge. Sale price was $ 22395. Dealer had to get the car from another dealer in Mississippi because there were no 6 speeds in stck in the New Orleans area and I told them upfront I had no interest in the CVT.
  • You should be able to get a great price - NorCal is a great market - lots of dealers and even the retards selling you the car know people are Internet savvy. True car shows 20,480 for my zip in NorCal for an Lx with cvt, that includes destination. That's 13% off msrp, and I'm sure you could get them down another 1-2%.

    Frankly I think the sweet spot in the entire lineup is either the sport or the EX. I'll bet you could get an EX cvt for say 22,600 including destination. GL!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    zigster - you may not be aware, but the term you used in your post to describe sales people has become a very offensive, socially unacceptable term in society. I can't speak for others, but I think it would be better for all who use the forum if we all tried to be considerate in our language and how we express ourselves.


    Bill G
  • I completely agree. My apologies. I amend the term to 'the Mensa collection waiting to sell you a car' ;)
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Wow - you just don't get it do you? You don't see that it's not about someone "waiting to sell you a car." I tried to bring to your attention in a respectful and courteous way your use of a derogatory term that has no useful place on a public forum like this and you respond in the only way you apparently know how - snarky and sarcastically.

    I was hoping my first post would spark some thought on your part about what you said and how you said it but I guess not. If you feel like it, google "use of the term retard" and who knows - maybe you'll understand what I am getting at.

    I'm not trying to be politically correct or holier than thou and believe it or not, I'm not trying to tick you off - just trying to make the point that there are probably many other ways you can express your disdain for sales folks or anyone else without having to use a slur.

    Take care,

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,346
    edited November 2013
    Appreciate the support but, no, he doesn't get it. I would have left him standing alone in the rain in the middle of our lot wondering what happened.

    I didn't need customers like that and the loss of a sale to him (or anyone else) wouldn't have affected my lifestyle one iota.

    I hope he meets someone like myself as he prowls the lots.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    edited November 2013
    Isell - in this case, I didn't even know you were involved - I just saw a blatantly disrespectful remark that affected more than one group of people and attempted to address it. I guess I'll never understand why some folks just can't conduct themselves like an adult. In this case, I have to agree it appears to be a lost cause.

    Lately, I've confined my posts in this thread to congratulating folks on their new accords and maybe a little light advice. A few hard core "expert" advice givers seem to have taken over and many of the advice seekers are willing to follow and then wonder why they get a major headache trying to buy a car.

    I have been following you guys in the frontlines thread and enjoy the much more civil interaction where folks actually have a discussion - maybe I'll chime in one of these days.

    Take care Craig,

  • crazeeceecrazeecee Posts: 13
    edited November 2013
    So, I am getting ready to buy my "2014 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan" tomorrow. I am in Northern California, South Bay area. The best price I have right now is around $25,600 (incl dest fee). Both my top dealers seem to be out of flex cash. I just don't seem to be able to get them lower (this is my first car purchase, and I am probably not so good at negotiating).

    Any suggestions to get them lower? Or is it a decent price, and it is tough to get them lower (I can't wait till the end of the month), and I should just go ahead and buy it.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    If you need the car now, a grand back of invoice is not a bad price without flex. If you can put it off, the deals might be sweeter in Dec. If both dealers have the car you want, I'd call the Internet Mgrs of both, tell them for 25k, you'll be there in 30 minutes to sign away - they might say no but then again, you never know.

    Bill G
  • I don't know what I am doing wrong, but these dealers don't even seem to reply back to me promptly. Like I called a dealer around 2 hrs back to email me the complete out-the-door price breakdown, but I haven't yet received any reply! I have told them that I plan to buy the car tomorrow (which is true). Are they generally like this? Or am I doing something really wrong here?
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