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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    What is noise insulation? I have not heard of that add-on.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    That is way too much for an EX-L 4 cylinder. In April, I paid 21800 for an EX-L 4 with MT. That was too high according to postings here but it was the best I could do in middle Tennessee. Take a trip to another dealer. That is way out of line.
  • joonjoon Posts: 121
    In the East Coast, I would recommend people to check some dealers in NJ. A few weeks ago, some of the quotes posted in this forum seemed extremely aggressive and comparable to the lowest quotes in California. There was a dealer in particular (Open Road Honda?) that was quoting Accords at extremely low prices. My point is if somebody is located out East and is willing to travel or get their car shipped, there are places (NJ for instance) where prices are comparable to CA.
  • bum1bum1 Posts: 1
    I went to a NY's Long Island PS Honda and got a 05 Accord DX VP package quote of $16715, w/ 1.9% for 36 months. Edmunds Invoice was at $16716 and it was better than TMV which was at $17196. Since I thought it was in line, I signed the contract w/o any hesitancy.

    I told the salesman that I wanted the invoice price, w/ splash guard and cargo net "free of charge." But as we all know that there aren't anything for free - I'm sure they are getting something back from the dealer holdback, minus the giveaways.

    Should I have dealt more aggressively (i.e. better pricing) or was my deal fair?

    Don't want to lose sleep over this since I expected 16k-17k range, (and over a low-end model) but certainly don't want to find out way later that I was an idiot for not asking for more.

    May be I can ask for extra trunk tray and finish the deal..............brian
  • hpmhpm Posts: 4
    My 2005 Accord LX had 11 miles on it. After owning it for about a doesn't have 11 miles anymore. I like driving this car too much that I need to slow down a little bit. :)
  • rajd1974rajd1974 Posts: 31
    #8143 of 8154 Re: 2005 Accord LX V6 price [0x42454e] by pkevinb Jun 11, 2005 (4:16 am)
    Ben, one caveat - I would think twice about buying a California car for primary use outside the state. Many cars have CA-specific emissions equipment, such as the Accord with the ULEV option

    You are wrong. The only variant accross states is the Octane rating and this is because of altitude and not some laws. You can always choose the Octane you want to place in your car. As for the additives or detergents that individual companies [shell, chevron etc], these are nothing but marketing hype to distinguish their fuels within themselves and introduce the "stickiness" factor so that they can charge a bit more. If there were variations in fuel accross states, then it would be specified by the body that overlooks the specifications in fuels.

    California strict emission control governs the emission of fuels for individual cars and holds Auto manufacturers responsible for compliance. The way these manufacturers comply is by using a more expensive and complicated catalytic converter which burns most of the remaining unburnt fuel in the exhaust.

    So if you buy a car from California, you get a fancy catalytic converter in addition [$400 value? give or take]. So you will be doing a minor favor to your state residents who may breathe cleaner air where your lobby influenced lawmakers have dragged their feet [in relation to California] on enforcing stricter emission control on auto manufacturers.

    As for durability of a california catalytic converter, it should be no more or no less than using it in California and following the manufacturer guidelines on what Octane fuel to use. I would trust Honda would have performed enough quality checks on their catalytic converters so that they may last a reasonable amount of time/miles whether in California or elsewhere using the specified fuel [ by Octane].
  • carbuyer25carbuyer25 Posts: 20
    I am considering purchase of an LX AT and was planning to use the CarsDirect price as a comparison point, as the posters in this forum have suggested.

    One question - your post mentions taking the CarsDirect price and then estimating a doc. fee (in addition to tax and title). I was under the impression that the CarsDirect "no-haggle price" included doc. fees. I thought the only additional fees would be Tax, Title, and License Plate.

    Has anyone used CarsDirect and can confirm what things would get added on to the "no-haggle price" that comes up?
  • I am looking for accord lx auto in seattle area. Please share your buying experiences. What would be the best prices for 05 accord lx sedan auto in this area.
  • 0x42454e0x42454e Posts: 14
    You're probably right. Since the CA doc. fee, and NY doc. fee is restricted to $45, it didn't really make a huge difference in my calculations.

    This is from the website: Price is the price that YOU PAY (before taxes and other customary fees and charges) for the purchase of a car. Leased vehicles may have a different acquisition price.

    I counted title, and doc. as customary fees. Some states have some weird taxes too, or so I've been informed. I assumed none of these were included, I was working that the carsdirect price was the price you were "agreeing to" with the "dealer."
  • carbuyer25carbuyer25 Posts: 20
    Actually, I'm wrong. I just called CarsDirect. The "no haggle price" does NOT include documentation fees.

    Customer Service would not tell me what the fee would be in NC. One rep. said that it could range anywhere from about $45 to about $300 depending on the state.
    Another rep. told me that it was estimated at 10% of the value of the car (I sure hope not - that would be $1,900 on an Accord).

    Could not get a straight answer on what the maximum they charge in North Carolina is. NC does not restrict these fees like CA and NY. I was told that I could not find out the fee unless I applied online and a sales rep would explain all fees to me after the car was located.

    Based on this information (or rather, the lack of it), I don't think I would want to do business with CD. As far as a comparison point to internet quotes, I'm going to try the CarsDirect price + $300 estimated doc. fee plus tax, tag, and title.

    Has anyone actually used CarsDirect and have better information on what doc. fees or other "hidden" fees they charge?

  • col_10022col_10022 Posts: 18
    I got quotes from about 5 different Honda dealers in the Washington DC area. These are the quotes I got and the impression I got.

    Bill Page Honda $28K+
    They offer a lifetime drivetrain warranty for as long as the car is titled in your name. The salesman goes to manager and has a heated discussion and comes back with a peice of paper with the number 28,000 circled in red. He slams the paper in front of you circles the number a few more times in case you didn't notice the number, put the pen in front of you and say" thats the best you're going to do, go ahead and sign" We walked out.
    I give them an F for low honesty and high prices.

    Fairfax Honda $26,600
    They basically kicked me out when I wouldn't buy at the Edmunds TMV. They were nice about it but they didn't want my business if I wanted to buy below the Edmunds TMV. They told me that Is I got it any cheaper than the TMV I should take it, they gave me a written quote that was good for 3 days if I promised to buy from them if noone could beat them by more than $200.
    I give them an A- for giving me a no haggle price that was reasonable fron the get go.

    Rosenthal Honda $25,500
    They had a bad reputation among the people I knew for dishonest sales tactics (they ask what sort of payment you are looking for, and if you have a trade-in, they negotiate the price of the trade-in before you buy the new car, then when you go out on your test drive, they claim to have sold your car while you were out on your test-drive). The prices were OK amnd the salesmen seemed OK but the sales managers were high pressure sales types that tried every trick in the book.
    I give them a C+ I give them high marks for price but low marks for honesty (something tells me they would have tried to screw me either in financing or other extras if i actually bought the car there).

    Leesburg Honda $25,400
    It was pretty much take it or leave it, they wouldn't give me a written quote for that price, so I left it (a written quote is useful for getting outside financing).
    I give them a B+ for refusing to give me a written quote I could take to the bank.

    Landmark Honda $25,156
    Nice honest up front staff. I bought the car there. They try to get you to buy a bunch of extras but its not overbearing and some of the things they try to sell you are actually useful (like the extended warranty, but don't pay their asking price, you can get cheaper and your insurance company likely has a similar program for half the cost). They sent a couple of people to drive the car to my house so I didn't have to leave my car in their lot.
    I give them an A, it would be an A+ but they don't have any frills at their dealership (maybe thats why the prices are so low).

    The processing fee was $299, the taxes were 3.18%, the tags were $41.50.

    As I was doing the paperwork for the car, I was talking to the finance guy about my buying experience and he was pretty frank when he told me that I shopped too hard. If I had taken the $26K quote from Fairfax Honda my payments would have been about $20 higher and i wold have avoided a week of aggravation. He was glad I did continue shopping but just something to think about when you try to squeeze the last couple of hundred dollars out of the dealers.

    I probably shopped harder than most people. In the end, I got a price that was $800 under invoice instead of $600 over invoice (I'm not even going to consider the Bill Page quote anything other than an attempt at trying to hook a sucker).

    Use the internet quote function on the edmunds site, internet departments seem to try and screw you less than the regular sales force that seems to think if you walk in the door, you won't walk out without a car. Get written quotes for financing purposes.
  • gwhatnowgwhatnow Posts: 10
    My experience with doc fees in NC, is that they are a set fee per individual dealership, not related to the price of the car purchased. It's just another chance to profit on the sale. There's no reason why 2 dealers 60 miles apart in the same state would have a $200-300 diffference in doc fees for the same make/model but so it goes. The most I've seen is either 400 or 500, I forget which, the least $90. I would ask about the doc fees up front, and include at least the incremental difference when you consider prices and negotiate.
  • mqqb1mqqb1 Posts: 29
    I was not able to get a price below wholesale but the info I got from CR helped me get a very good price in between wholesale and invoice. The key was the factory to dealer incentives that seem to fluctuate each month. If this incentive is high the wholesale price on CR may even be higher than what the dealer actually paid (depending on how up to date the CR info is). But I basically used the wholesale price as a place to begin negotiating up from. In the end I got a price in between wholesale and invoice. I'm sure the dealer made some money (which is fine) and I also benefited by getting a decent price that was below invoice.
  • mqqb1mqqb1 Posts: 29
    Are you all subtracting holdback from carsdirect prices? I have found that "invoice" prices on the Internet tend not to take in to account subtracting any holdback (typically 3% of MSRP).

    "No haggle" prices are always negotiable and do not seem to include subtracting holdback.

    Best formula I've seen is Invoice - holdback - consumer rebate (if applicable) - factory to dealer incentive + destination + TTL/other doc "fees" = best OTD price. And having several dealers compete for you business works very well as long as they are shooting straight (rather uncommon but more prevalent since the Internet leveled the playing field).

  • biker4biker4 Posts: 746
    6 years ago (multiple lifetimes in Internet age) Bill Page Honda had an Internet Dept. (when most dealers didn't even know what that meant) and had the best price ($1500 under sticker). I guess times change.

    I was under the impression that MD dealers in the DC area only charged $99 doc fee vs. a seemingly uniform $298 on the VA side.

    You didn't mention which model this was on.
  • mihinkmihink Posts: 29
    Thanks to everyone for their advice on the accord. About a month ago, I bought a 2005 Accord 4DR EX Auto Black for $20,500 OTD at Hendrick Honda in Woodbrige, VA.
    I know there are a lot of people in the DC area who are looking for the best deal, I think this it, I also got the 1.9% for 36mos. on top of the deal. I love the Accord, just wished it had a bit more power.
    I hope they are offering the same deals this month.
    By the way, VA sales tax is 3%. ;)
  • 0x42454e0x42454e Posts: 14
    If you got 1.9% from AHFC, I thought the deal started June 1st. I wasn't saying this to correct you, but to say that maybe other VA people can still get the same deal. Multiple dealers have told me that prices don't change during the month, not that I believe that.
  • 0x42454e0x42454e Posts: 14
    As for durability of a california catalytic converter, it should be no more or no less than using it inCalifornia and following the manufacturer guidelines on what Octane fuel to use. I would trust Honda would have performed enough quality checks on their catalytic converters so that they may last a reasonable amount of time/miles whether in California or elsewhere using the specified fuel.

    I verified this to be true with 2 mechanics, one of whom was a certified Honda mechanic. Not that I didn't trust you rajd, I was just supposed to call them anyway.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Sorry for the late reply, been away from the PC for a bit.

    By "contract" I meant a sales contract of "buyer's order". If you are travelling to get a car it can be nice to get them to fax you a copy of this (if they will) so you can make sure they are not sticking some other fees on their to ruin your deal.

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I was looking to see what they'd give me for my wife's VW. The car is in great shape, is 4 years old, loaded with options and has only 40K miles on it. When the sales person came back they only offered me $3K for it. After further discussion, they upped it to $4K. This was still $3K below what I was willing to accept

    Rule #1 of car trading is if you ask for a wholesale price on the new car they will only give you a wholesale price on your trade in. This is normally less than KBB or Edmunds will show.

    Rule #2 is if you trade them something they do not want (a VW at a Honda dealership, for example) then they will either wholesale it to some local used car lot or roll it through the auction. This will net them A LOT less then KBB or Edmunds shows for your trade in value.

    Best bet is to run your car in the local paper and sell it yourself. If if you get sale tax credit for trades where you live, there is probably a HUGE difference between the $4k they offered + tax savings and what the car would bring in a private sale.

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    When you put in the ZIP if "directs" your price quote to an area dealer for that car (if any) and reports what they have told that they will sell that car for. If no dealer in your immediate area is willing to sell cheap (as is the case where I live) just put in the ZIP of a nearby large city and see what comes up. The difference between my home ZIP code and one 2 to 4 hour drive away is "lots" of money.

  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018

    Sells them pretty cheap. There are other places like Curry Honda that do as well. A Google on "HondaCare" should turn up a lot of choices.

  • jluedejluede Posts: 34

    You might be right about the best deal. I think you even got a better deal than I did in Houston. I got OTD at $21,400 but of course our 6.25% sales tax was a big chunk of the difference. Still, if your $20,500 included doc fees, title and license you must of got the price down to about $19,600 or so??? I think I've only seen one other person who had a deal close to yours in California but travel too the dealership was too much trouble so they ended up paying about $700 more at closer dealer.

    Can you break down your deal for us? There are so many variations state to state that its hard to compare somtimes. I know someone said in OK the OTD price didn't include TTL because the dealerships there do not handle the registration paperwork.

  • username2username2 Posts: 5
    I used CarsDirect and was contacted by the fleet manager at Brown Honda (Toledo, OH). A competing dealer (that I contacted directly) offered to beat the deal by $50. When his "out the door" price came through, it was much lower. He "forgot" to add the destination charge to his quote. Using CarsDirect was a very good experience for me. I received my offers by e-mail, and when I was satisfied that I was getting a complete quote, I then gave my phone number to arrange a test drive. I completed my purchase on Saturday (June 11):

    2005 Honda Accord LX Automatic Sedan
    $21,090.00 MSRP
    $18,485.00 Your Internet Price
    100.00 Ohio Document Fee
    7.25% Sales Tax
    15.00 Title Fees
    10.50 Ohio (30-Day Temp) Tag

    Invoice: $19,034
    CarsDirect Target Price: $19,134
    KBB New Car Blue Book Value: $19,403
    Edmunds TMV: $19,688

    I also financed at 1.9% for 36 months. The only negotiating was to have a $200 locate fee waived (the car was transferred from another dealer).

    Happy Hunting!
  • markinphxmarkinphx Posts: 37
    Take the ride, I did.

    You certainly will never regret burning your weekend to save $1,000.

    You will however in the future regret overpaying in Phoenix.

    Eventually it will eat you up, knowing you got soaked on the $300 doc fee, knowing that the dealer made a nice profit off of you, retaining his full holdback price on the deal.

    Take the ride man, you can do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • pavan_ivpavan_iv Posts: 6
    Excellent deal... why wouldnt Indiana dealer give me that price.. :( . probably I have to do some more search.

    What if I want to buy the car from VA.?? Or only VA residents can buy the car in VA.
  • I've been looking at a Honda Accord and I took it for a test drive yesterday.

    I'm going from a 1986 Hundai pony to something new som everything somes so wonderfully powered. (Actually about half the cars I tested were better then the pony, the others bombed. *cough*'97 camry*cough)

    Anyway when I took it out, it seemed to lurch a bit when the automatic gears changed. I don't know if it's my heavy foot or if something with that much power just does that.

    things I'd like to know:

    1. Is the lurching normal or a timing thing?
    2. There's a horrible tint in the back window. No bubbles or anything but it's pink. How hard is it to get tint off a window or should I go just get it retinted and they will remove it?
    3. Is $5900 Canadian a good price for a 1992 Accord? it's been in the lot for months and months now so I'm guessing something is wrong with it. I might be able to get away with giving them $3000 cash in hand.

    4. Should I get a warrenty on it? They offer a 30 day drive train warranty anyway but the extended is $600 and I figure if something goes wrong it was already broken before I buy the car.

    5. How easy is it to work on this car. ie. adding the K&N intake myself and possibly dropping in a turbo eventually.

    My comparisons to this car are as follows:
    1984 Volvo (I loved this car. Got it up to 120mph once)
    1986 Hyundai Pony (This car is simply put. FUN!)
    Test drove a 1992 Eagle Talon (Turbo was blown and the blue smoke coming out of every orifice was scary so I walked away from this deal)

    Tonight I'm going to test drive a Datsun 280z which is in perfect condition and only $5000.

    My goals for the car are:
    Do some modifications and learn to work on a car. Gages, exhause, intake, change the manafold put in a turbo.

    The mods I see locally are dirt cheap so I'm only really worried about the difficulty.

    If I get the Z, I'd feel bad touching it with anything neon because it is in perfect condition. 1987 280z. (I'll only get this if I love driving it from the get go, otherwise I'll get an accord.)

    I found another accord, 1990 for $3500 but the lot it's on is run by guys that like the $$$ in hand idea and I could probably walk away with the car for $2500 canadian.

    Is the 92 worth looking at?
  • I guess I should also say this is the first time I'm paying more then $500 for a car so it's kind of a big deal to me. I want to be able to keep the car I buy for another 5+ years without spending every dime on it or even going without a car for a week at a time.

    I noticed my last post was conveluted and didn't make much sense and I couldn't delete it. Here's what I want to do to "a" car.

    I have:
    2 12" Sony Xplode subs
    2 6x9 something speakers (150 watt rms each)
    1 Massive competition amp (Still yet to be hooked up. Supposed to be 1400 rms)

    I want to set up an onboard computer (I have plans for a laptop with dvd/wireless internet/lcd dash screen/projector (possible mod dunno yet)

    I'd like to try my hand at:
    (as I'm already somewhat experienced with putting a sound system into a crap car
    1. K&N intake kit
    2. Breaks kit
    3. Exhause (might be done already on the 1992)
    4. Add turbo
    5. Conversion from Automatic to Manual
    6. Lights lights lights (My pony blinks and lights up to the music on 3 different inputs and goes by the EQ I have set up. Right now I tend to get lauched at when I pull up with my booming hundai pony with the lights going. I have it tuned to the point where I'm able to beat a civic across an intersection. 1/4 mile HA right.

    7. Is it possible to convert the windows to electric? How much work $$$ would this be?

    I would love to turn my pony into a sleeper but it seems that everyones suggestion to upgrading my pony is to buy a new car. Sooo. I'm looking at a 1992 honda accord 4 banger and am wondering if the above mods are doable and if $5000 is too much for the car. All canadian of course.

    I looked at an 1992 Eagle talon and if the engine and tubro weren't toast, I'd be drinving that today for $5000.

    I'm looking at a 1987 Datsun 280z tonight but doubt I could do any of the above mods to it because it's almost in mint condition.

    If none of these cars seem worth it, what would you suggest?
    Thanks for any input.
  • calcal1calcal1 Posts: 2
    Just purchased one this weekend! I think that I got an amazing deal: $17,930 (includes destination charges, does not include TTL). I am very happy and grateful to those who have posted and made this experience so much easier!

    Out of curiousity, do you think that I could have gotten an even better price if I had waited? Today, I received an e-mail from a dealer whose quote request form I filled out (I am in Northern California). He quoted a price of $16,788 for a regular LX! Even plus the destination fee, this seems unrealistically low - any thoughts?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Dennis, What is sale tax credit?
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