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My shopping experience showed me that dealers do not sell very many coupes and they are very willing to negotiate aggressively on them so if you want an accord coupe I wouldn't give up especially when you can get 0.90% right now,thats a very nice incentive.
i dont know how much room i can negotiate with dealer..
hellp.
first time car buyer
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Jeannine
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The internet contact is Andrew Gordon.
www.weymouthhonda.com
Sussman were great to deal with and I highly recommend Jim Russell,he knows his product line very well and was very cordial and not pushy in any way.
After the deal I did go back and purchase all weather floor mats and Jim helped me with those as well.
Great experience and I hope yours is as good as mine was.
I am first-time poster here and this looks like a great informative forum. I am currently considering buying a Honda accord 2007 VP model from a Honda dealership in San Francisco Bay Area. Since the vehicle is Honda certified pre-owned by the Honda dealership, do I need to have the car checked out by an independent mechanic for usual pre-purchase inspection considering it is a Honda certified car and has already gone through Honda inspection?
I ask this because decent car mechanic shops are usually closed on weekends, and weekend is the only time I find to make the car purchase. So even though I do not mind giving about $100 for pre-purchase inspection, I can not do it over the weekend (unless someone knows good honda mechanic open on sat/sun in south bay).
The car comes with 1-yr/12K non-powertrain limited warranty - is that supposed to buy some peace-of-mind or is it one of those marketing gimmick kind of warranties by the dealer that do not really address any real future issues with the car - for example, what if the starter breaks or hose starts leaking within 1 year - would dealer cover that or would he consider it normal wear-and-tear?
Dealer is asking close to 13.5K for the car - a good price?
thanks,
John
I've been looking at certified 2008 coupes EXL V6 with 30-60K miles and varying prices. I do pay close attention to any details in the Carfax, such as what's reported at time of certification, new tires, new brakes, 4 wheel alignment, new battery, etc.
I do wonder when shocks, struts should be evaluated.
I also ask to see service records and verify they apply to the correct VIN.
I, too, wonder how valuable/reliable this certification really is? I have no doubt some dealers adhere to this process better than others. I checked a few at Paragon Honda and wouldn't buy a car there with someone elses money!
I was looking at a Dodge pickup (certified) and the car fax showed an accident. I asked the dealer about it and he said there was no frame damage, so the vehicle could be certified.
Take that for what it's worth.
Good luck on your purchase.
Nothing beats a thorough inspection from your own mechanic to give you peace of mind and as far as paint work I would say that about seventy percent of all used cars have had some form of paint work on them or a bumper replaced that's just the nature of the beast when your looking at a used vehicle.
Carfax isn't a bad place to start but it can only tell you what's been reported to motor vehicles or insurance and thats it.
The bottom line is if your worried about paint,prior accidents, carfax and things like that then a few more bucks up front and buying new might make you sleep better and long after you drive off the lot that car will be in your drive way so by smart and sleep well.
Is it is good idea to negotiate the price before independent pre-purchase inspection (which a certified car should pass with flying colors), or afterward? First time buyer here.
Anyone has bought Honda from delaership in south bay (south bay honda, dublin honda, stevens creek honda)?
john
Are they supposed to do it that way? Probably not.. but, really, the only thing you gain by purchasing a certified car is the extended warranty. You have to assume any Honda dealership is going to treat their used cars the same way, as far as inspecting them for safety and wear items, whether they are certifying them, or not.
regards,
kyfdx
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Though, as I noted.. if it's already out of warranty, you may be out of luck.
Check out this discussion: Honda Extended Warranties Pricing and Info
regards,
kyfdx
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Is it a good idea to to negotiate the price on phone/email before going to the dealership to look at the car to finally purchase and testdrive, since a relatively new certified car usually drives fine and I do not expect test drive to reveal anything new?
Nothing wrong with going to look, then coming back another day to negotiate..... or, get the salesperson's email address while you are there the first time...
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If you search out a particular model and year the information is out there to allow you to negotiate but first and foremost you need to select a car.
Take the vehicle to an independent mechanic he may find some things the dealer missed or didn't bother to check which could either make you question the purchase in the first place or negotiate a better price based on your out of pocket expenses for any necessary repairs.
Last but not least I very recently had a horrible experience over a CPO because I was in a hurry and the car was certified and still had factory warranty on it so I put my faith in the dealer that if there were problems I had warranty and "certified" backing me up,WRONG.
Don't negotiate what you haven't driven and taken to your mechanic or your wasting your time and like me never trust a CPO on face value.
Selling Price: $18,991
Tax: $1,329.37 (7%)
Doc: $249
Dmv: $299
Tire Tax: $7.50
Out The Door: $20,875.87
I also got quotes for other Honda Models
2011 Honda Accord LX was $19,900 out the door
2011 Honda Accord SE was $22,066.99 out the door
The best dealer prices in NJ were Rt 23 honda, Hudson Honda and RT22 Honda.
I expect that it is relatively easy to find incentives that last a month or more, but harder to find and publish something that lasts only a week. Or are these likely unrelated attempts to bring in business using the already documented incentive for March.
What are your thoughts and experiences?
Additionally, I have gotten different opinions as to whether there is a March Honda Loyalty Rebate that is not tied to financing. Has anyone received this in March?
Incentives change constantly and not just across the country but regionally as well check with Honda in your area as to what incentives are available and for the time frames for which there good for,be careful though because "dealer cash" doesn't necessarily have to be disclosed.
I did a google maps search for honda mechanics in the area but most shops are generic (quick lube kind of places servicing just about any car) and are not open on weekends.
Thank you
john
The bottom line is did you get the car you wanted and can you afford it?,if you answered yes to both then you have a good deal.
My question: reading the specs, I notice that in the EX trim level, there is Active Noise Cancellation (ANC). Does anyone know if this makes a real difference? I commute a lot on the highways so if this ANC make a real difference, I would go for EX, even though I do not care for the sunroof etc that comes with EX.
Also, is there any other difference in sound insulation between the EX and LX-P, e.g., does EX have extra sound proof liners?
I would not have a chance to test drive various trim levels on a highway due to the fact that Honda dealers near me are all far away from a highway.
Thanks for any comments!
EX has the 190 hp, larger tires and better anti-sway bar and that in my opinion is worth the extra price.
According to the specification,
http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-sedan/specifications.aspx?group=engineering
EX does have noise cancellation. I like to know if this make much of a difference.
As far as 190 hp is concern, I thought LX and EX both has a 2.4 engine, may be it the same engine but EX is tuned more for performance?
My point is make sure this dealer in Chicago faxes you an out an out the door price so you don't run into various fee's that don't make the drive worth while because any number south of 23 is extremely aggressive bordering on impossible so be careful and I hope you get what your looking for.Let us know how you make out,I'm very interested how this works out for you.
A new 2011 Accord Ex Leather today in MA for
Selling Price : 22,700.
Tax (6.25%) 1418
Doc 298
Registration & title : 125
Out the Door 24542.00
First Payment -420 O(Honda Loyalty.. honda will make 1st payment)
Net 24,122.00
The best quotes received are:
LX 19187
LX-P 20091
SE 20999
These quotes don't include admin fees or taxes.
Do I take the quote as the "starting offer" and press the dealer a little more?
Also, if you don't mind, would you share your age and what drew you to the Accord (other than price)? I am interested in the demographic that is attracted to the current Accord model.
1. Look here on Edmonds for your exact invoice price. Know that the dealer still makes good money at this price.
2. Tell your salesman that you understand Honda has factory-to-dealer incentives for Accords this month and you'd like to see just how much it is.
Your dealer could easily sell it to you for invoice less factory incentive and make money (hold back, month end bonus etc). This would be a fair price for you to pay and still be below Edmonds TMV. The dealer could go lower but obviously, he wants to keep as much in his pocket as possible. Ask if they will throw anything else in on the deal--all accessories are dealer installed so they are very high margin. Ask about service deals--how about a couple of free oil changes. Keep asking for throw-ins. They won't be offended and they might even say yes. Just don't jerk them around if you're not ready to buy.