2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

isellhondas

I once received a crappy survey from a customer because his gas tank wasn't "full".

Maybe that's because this guy insisted on test driving the same car FOUR times!

It wasn't quite full but it was full enough or so I thought. It MIGHT have taken two gallons at the most.

Actually, from this guy it should have been expected.

And....yes, I probably should have had it filled but by the time he was done with me it was 11:00 at night. We closed at 9:00.

cars12345

Hi bigdaddy.

I think you are getting snowed. Seems fishy they can sell a 2013 above invoice at this time of year. $2k under invoice for an EX in NY might be tough but what they are offering right now is not very good. I'd say $1500 under invoice is reasonable. Does the dealer offer flex cash. Don't wait for them to offer it. You have to explicitly ask for it. (My dealership was surprised that was the first question out of my mouth and asked how I knew about it. They were not offering it up.)

Up here in Boston I got my EXL 4 for $1600 under invoice with an additional $500 for Honda Flex Cash. So I only hit the 2K mark with the flex cash. Plus we are seeing 2014's going for invoice or lower already.

I'd look at other dealerships since this one is not serious. Or seriously consider a 2014 and ask for at least invoice.

Last 2 days of the month is a good time as well. With the end of the quarter approaching as well, end of September may be a great time to pick up a 2013. By then I think 2K under invoice, if there are any left, and you don't care about color, is reasonable.

ok Brian - take it from here.

cars12345

It's not on the sticker price as a separate charge. It's on the long list of included options like, you get 4 tires, some seat belts, a cupholder and a a full tank of gas! It's on mine. I think I read it on the Honda website too.

adamr1

As an addition to my previous post, lets keep something in perspective and use simple numbers in an example. Lets say a dealer make an average profit of 500 per car in a month. Some cars they will make 1,000 profit, some 500, some 0 profit, and rarely they will actually lose a little money. All that averages to 500.

Certain people don't like to haggle at all, or spend any time. It isn't so much that they are misinformed, they just hate it. So they walk in, push a little on the price and are satisifed. Thats are the 1,000 profit people. Others will push more and they are fine doing some haggling, the 500 profit people. Then there are those who are in this forum. For the most part we seek to be the one who buys that the dealer makes no profit or even loses money slightly.

Again, not all dealers are willing to sell a car with little or no profit, or even lose. But some will. It depends on so many variables: time of month possibly, location, inventory, size or dealer, salesperson, color/model, etc. An approach that works great today may not work great tomorrow. It also comes down to how much time you want to invest. Not everyone wants to invest a few hours to save $250. Or drive 3 hours. Or has any desire to play the game. That doesn't make them wrong. It is actually good for us. A dealer has to make money somewhere to stay in business.

Me personally, I enjoy the game, and find it a challenge to get the lowest price. I come here to learn the prices people are getting paid, and maybe to find some new tricks. It isn't though about who is right or wrong.

I had a friend who was buying a new Subaru a few months ago. Through his job they had some special buying club that was supposed to get great price. He did all the work, plus contacted a few other dealers, and had what he thought was a good price. I told him lets go have some fun and see if we can save you a good amount more of money. If it works, great. If it doesn't, then you know you are close to the bottom. So we went into another dealer and by being casual, that dealer said that he might be able to "steal" the deal for the right price. If it was a waste of time, we walk out, grab a beer and laugh about it, no big deal. After about 20 mins of discussion with the dealer, my friend had a price that was $700 dollars lower than his buying club price, plus got about $400 worth of extra options added on that he wanted. He went from a good price to a great price. But on his own, he wouldn't have been able to get that price.

So again, lets keep an open mind. This game is complex, and changes all the time. Don't just assume that someone is right or wrong, in most cases the answer really is "it depends" One of the best pieces of advice that Brian gives is to quickly walk away from dealers who want to mess around with you and play their own game by changing the story on you. Run away quick. There are enough good dealers still out there.

rivhil

Did anyone buy Honda Accord 2013 EX-L 4dr Sedan in Florida? What was your OTD price? What is the invoice price for this car? What are the rebates available? Thanks for your help.

gotojanoo

Hi I was wondering if u can post City and dealership name and state. Actually am badly looking for accord sport 2013. Here is CA,Los angeles all dealers need a lots of profit. Base price 24980 and they are asking for 23.5K or 24K.
I am looking a deal like yours 23K OTD lol
PLease if anyone here in Los angeles have any experience with resonable dealer let m eknow. Thanks and best Regards.

cars12345

the invoice price for the 4 cyl, no navi is 26400.

bigdaddy930

Cars12345,

Thanks. I am new to this. What is Honda $500 flex cash means? Is this only for Sept and for trade in or financing? Thanks

sparkndutch

To: Joelv88 & gmanusmc

Thanks you guys so much for your input. I just bought my 2013 Honda Accord Sport, Hematite exterior. I love this car!!!

I bought it at Robertson Palmdale Honda for $259XX.00 (with taxes/fees/docs)
Includes:
$500 Military Discount
Splash Guards
Wheel Locks
Door Edge Film
Trunk Tray (plastic/rubber)
7yrs 100,000 mile warranty
GAP insurance
I couldn't qualify for college discount since I'm 6 months away from graduating and Honda asks for at least 4 months =\

Overall I'm very very very happy with my experience today and got a steal of a price! Anyone in Southern California, I'd highly suggest Robertson Palmdale Honda and also Galpin Honda in Van Nuys though they didn't have my color but were willing to offer same price. Both friendly staff and easy experience.
PLEASE AVOID AUTONATION IN VALENCIA. INTERNET MANAGER/ FINANCIAL MANAGER ARE LAZY/RUDE AND SHOULD BE FIRED! I've never been so anger under 5 minutes and I felt was discriminated due to my age and didn't take me seriously. SO AVOID THEM AT ALL COST!!!

ebgjvu

I just bought my Honda accord 2013 sport
4dr automatic last Sunday for $21300 including
Destination charge at Spreen Honda in Linda Loma, CA
You need to confirm pricing over email or txt
Message before driving over there.

gmanusmc

Congratulations on your new accord Ricky - the Sport is a sharp looking vehicle. I know there probably aren't too many of these left which makes it a little harder to get a good price but it sounds like you did fine. Is the warranty Hondacare?

Isn't it funny that when you're going through this process, how quickly the good dealers rise to the top and the bad ones expose themselves.

Enjoy that accord - it will give you many years of dependable service.

Semper Fi

Bill

scottman

Are the dealer fees(699) included in the 25k number?

cars12345

Flex Cash is a Honda Incentive. It is $500 added to your down payment if you finance through Honda. Not all dealerships have it and it can run out, but from personal experience some dealerships are not upfront about this offer. Dealerships don't have an unlimited supply so some are picking and choosing who to give it to. They like to maybe throw it in at the end to seal the deal even though it is money not from the dealer's pocket.

Just as if the have the $500 flex cash incentive. There are other incentives for college grad and military service as well.

I'd suggest you get internet prices from 4-6 dealers to see who is willing to deal. Sounds like you landed on one that is trying to take advantage of you. Invoice on a 2013 is not acceptable at this stage of the game and you can tell them that. If they ask what you are looking for, start with your 2K under invoice and see what they come back with. and under invoice includes destination. don't let them tack that on later.

suydam

> Invoice on a 2013 is not acceptable at this stage of the game<

Most news agencies are reporting that dealerships are experiencing shortages of popular models like the Honda Accord right now. There may be few, if any, 2013s on lots and actually not enough 2014s at this point to meet demand.
http://business.time.com/2013/09/13/automakers-dont-have-enough-cars-to-keep-up-- with-buyers/

bluemkn57cars

bigdaddy930,

"I see many post here saying you can get a price for $2k less than dealer invoice."

Below invoice pricing varies by location supply and demand, negotiation skills, time of the month/year you are buying, and whether the dealership is trying to meet their sales numbers.

Dealerships in Maryland had some of the best pricing on the 2013 Accord. Some forum contributors reported pricing of up to $1700 below invoice without any incentives.

I purchased a 2013 EX-L for $1400 below invoice plus $500 Flex cash (Total of $1900 below invoice) a couple of weeks ago in the Boston area. It took me two months of researching, reading posts on this forum, and reaching out to dealerships, etc... I could have saved an additional $100 if I had gone with another dealership and chosen a different color.

Here is some advice on how to get the best deal:

1. Read some of the previous posts on how to negotiate and deal with internet sales managers.
2. Read up about pricing in the NYC area.
3. Be prepared to negotiate for the best deal.
4. I would suggest not waiting till the end of the month to contact dealers, since 2013 models are getting harder to find on dealer lots.
5. Have you thought about a 2014 model? You might be able to strike a better deal.
6. As far as target price, it is hard to say but you should be getting close to $1500 below invoice at this time of the year on the 2013 models. You need to be a little more aggressive and tell dealerships that you will buy today for $XXX below invoice with no add-ons. Put the ball in their court. Do not let dealerships play games with you.
7. Make sure you are aware of all dealer doc fees, etc...
8. Cars12345 talked about Flex cash and gave some tips on how to reach out to dealers who still have it. Ask all dealerships whether they have flex cash available.
9. If you are a recent grad or were in the military, there are additional incentives for financing through Honda.
10. Know what your credit score is so that you can qualify for the 0.9% or 1.9% APR rates if you choose to finance through Honda.

At the end of the day, if you walk into a dealership and the salesperson or staff start to play games (bait and switch), do not even waste your time and walk out and visit the next dealership. I have done that a couple of times, and I have no regrets.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

gotojanoo

What will be the best lowest OTD price for 2013 accord sport? I was offered 24700 OTD and that is the lowest I got.Base model no addons. I am first time with Honda so real confused.Sport looks awesome and LX is okay. Decision.I am in Los angeles county. Is it worth to upgrade EX instead of sport. I guess only difference is lane assistant and auto on off .

huskerfan5

I suggest you make one more appointment with the internet manager from Autonation and do what I did in 1978 when I bought my first new car.
I had visited a Buick dealer to test drive the newly designed Regal but the salesman told me I had to schedule an appointment to test drive. He obviously wasn&#146;t taking me seriously.
I went back the following day and he was finishing up with a customer. When the customer leaves, he gets up and begins to walk towards me when a couple walks in and tells him they are interested in a car. He tells me to wait until he finishes with them. I said something to the effect that I have an appointment but he tells me to be patient. Guess I was stunned because I foolishly waited a few minutes before I left.
I bought the car at another dealer later that week. I brought it home in a snow storm and spent the weekend sitting in the car in my garage, admiring my new car and thinking about my experience with that salesman.
That week, I made another appointment with that salesman. I re-taped the window sticker and parked the car in front of the showroom. Went inside, talked to the salesman, told him the options I wanted and he gave me a price at MSRP. I just smiled and told him I saw a car out front that looked nice. He said that we should take a look and when he saw the car he saw the car, he had a puzzled look like he didn&#146;t recall noticing it before. As he went to take a look at the license plate, I opened the door and drove away.

accord2013elx

Sale price: 26,085
Doc fee + Title + Reg: 448
Tax: 6.25%

accord2013elx

Thanks cars12345! I have already picked the car 2 days back

It's Herb Chambers.
Prime's best deal was couple of hundred below the invoice price.

Good luck with your remaining things.

rivhil

Thanks for the information. Can you give me an overview of the warranty - there seems to be different options, not sure how all this works. Thanks for your help!

sparkndutch

gotojanoo,

I'm upgrading from a 1998 Honda Civic LX, I have no leather or sunroof on it. Let me tell you the Sport trim is everything I need. I was looking at EX but I felt in love Witt the 18 in wheels, deck lip spoiler, dual exhaust, and the interior has a sporty red lighting inside in the Sport. My personal opinion is Sport is wonderful and didn't need anything else, (I'm 25, us youngsters wants all the bell and whistles but this is perfect!)

OTD was like a few hundred dollars less, don't have the paper work on me, try to get it at least $250 lower with 1 or 2 accessories thrown in for free or 50% off.

Since your in LA County would you be able to call the Internet manger and stop by? His name is Chris S, Galpin Honda in Van Nuys, he will work with you to get the best price, please tell him (Enrique 'Ricky' the Marine sent you) haha

rivhil

To accord2013elx,

Just to confirm - This is your cost for the 2014 ELX sedan?

Sale price: 26,085
Doc fee + Title + Reg: 448
Tax: 6.25%

What dealer and what state? Need some advice for Florida. Thanks!

gmanusmc

That's a funny story! You're one devious dude huskerfan. I only wish you could've had an audience there to give you a round of applause. I can just picture him standing there thinking "what the bleep just happened?"

Bill

fxguy

That's about $570 below invoice. Not bad at this stage of the game. Enjoy your ride. Thanks for the details.

fxguy

No.

sparkndutch

Hello Sir,

I'm not sure if its HondaCare, I just remember the 3year/36,000 basic warranty is now 7years/100,000 and the 5yr powertrain is also up 7years/100,000.

Yes I learned first hand but I'm happy to own the Accord, just spent the last hour sitting inside my car and I figured everything out now haha. Which Accord do you have?

Semper Fi

Ricky

cars12345

Way to go with Herb Chambers! Glad it worked out!

gmanusmc

Hey Ricky - you deserve to sit in that thing and savor that new car smell - you earned it. Our family has had a number of accords through the years but right now I've got a 2011 Civic EX. I'm considering upgrading to another Accord within the next 6 months or so. I was leaning toward the LX but now you've got me thinking about a Sport - they are really nice.

As far as maintenance, do the regular oil changes, drain and refill the tranny fluid every 15k miles , and change the cabin filter and engine air filter every 12-15k miles and your car will take good care of you. If you like to do your own work, there are many videos on you tube to help out. The filters are especially easy to change on your own - dealers way overcharge to do it.

Have fun with that new ride!

Bill

cmartin411

My best number so far is from a dealer in metro ATL:

Invoice: $28,269

Their price: $27,549 (includes destination) plus $300 doc fee = $27,849. Plus tax and title.

$420 below invoice looks to be the basement in this area. Probably pull the trigger this weekend.

gotojanoo

Thanks a lot. Same here I am in love with sports model. Did u felt lots of noise in car when you drive? I read some reviews about it. I will try that person you recommend me .Thanks again and enjoy your new Ride

scottman

I am looking at a car that has about $1900 wiorth of dealer added options, paint coating, mud flaps, trunk mat. My feeling is, I didn't ask for them so naturally, I don't want to pay for them. Is that reasonable? They seem to be so inflated anyway.

bluemkn57cars

When calculating the price below invoice, you should not include the dealer doc fees (since they vary).

Hence, in your case your sale price is $720 below invoice. That's a great deal for a 2014 model.

bluemkn57cars

Was Honda Cars more expensive?

bluemkn57cars

You have two options:

1. Ask the dealer to find you a car that has no dealer added options.
2. Negotiate with the dealer and ask for a reduction in price on those options BUT your best bet is to first negotiate on the price of the car (if you have not already done that).

I do not see the dealer eating the cost for all these options, so unless it is the last car on the lot in your trim and color, you might have to go with option #2.

bigdaddy930

I just get a deal at $22,497 (not including $790 destination). The dealer invoice is at 24,037 so with $790 it is $750 below invoice.

I also get a quote for the 2013 CRV EX AWD at $23,595 (not including $790 destination). The dealer invoice is at 25,379 so with $790 it is $994 below invoice.

According to Edmund and KBB this seems like a good price. The dealer is at New Jersey and I live in Queens NY.

Any thought???

jplatt2

blue, admittedly I'm no expert on car buying, but I do know enough that you need to include dealer doc fees to determine if it's a good deal. After all, it's cash going directly into the dealer's pocket. If a dealer offered to make the selling price $2,000 under invoice but his doc fee was $2,000, I'd walk right out the door. If I was negotiating for a car in NY where the doc fee is capped at $75, I would accept a price closer to invoice than if I was in FL where the doc fees are really high.

bluemkn57cars

I hear where you are coming from, but when I calculate a good price I usually do not include doc fees.

On the other hand, if you are comparing prices between dealerships, then adding the doc fees for a total OTD price is the best way to tell which dealer is offering you the best overall deal.

Here in MA, dealers charge an average of $300 in doc fees.

Good luck with your car search.

gmanusmc

Yep - doesn't make sense if two dealers quote you $1k back of invoice to go with the one who charges $600 doc over the one who charges $100. So yes, the dealer doc fee should be considered as part of the price when comparing quotes. I am shocked that some places get away with fees like $699. Some locations are capped at a reasonable level.

Bill G

fxguy

I agree with Blue. You cannot put Doc fees into the equation as it varies by state. The only constants here are invoice and destination. Yes, we all know Doc fees are pure profit for them but several dealers will not budge on that price. Where you get them back is to add options like mud guards, mats etc and threaten to walk if they try to charge for them. Yes they will still make money off you (as they rightfully must) but you will get some of that Doc fee back via free/cheap options. At least that is what has worked and continues to work for me.

sparkndutch

Yay! Please talk to him and let him know I sent you. What noise do you mean like road and/or interior? None to both. It's a beautiful smooth ride! I'm driving all over the 405 and 818 and luving the ride!

jplatt2

Hey, you can&#146;t negotiate gov&#146;t fees that vary by state but just because a certain area has a higher doc fee does not entitle the dealer to make extra money. You need to negotiate down the selling price. NY is capped at $75. Just across the river in NJ the typical doc fee is $300-$400. People from NY buy cars in NJ and people from NJ buy cars in NY and they are doing it at the dealer who charges least for the combined selling price and doc fee. To ignore doc fees makes no sense.

jplatt2

Brian, you wrote the following the other day

"Edmunds is dead on accurate, along with sites like Kelly blue book { kbb.com} Consumer reports. I have been using Edmunds for years now and found they are always right with pricing."

You give terrific advice on how to buy a car but you are dead wrong regarding the accuracy of Edmunds invoice pricing. Unless you are actually checking it against manufacturer invoices, there is no way to know. I found out that they are not always accurate when researching two cars this year. Volvo charges extra for any color but white for the s60, and you have to pay $400 for red on the new Mazda 6. KBB.com shows the extra charges but Edmunds shows they are zero cost choices. The Volvo salesman told me people quoting Edmunds pricing gives him grief. Check it out.

fxguy

Makes no sense to you but does to most of us. A lot of dealers DO NOT budge on Doc fees. It varies by state. You cannot consider that when considering price below invoice. To not confuse each other, we must stick with constants i.e. Invoice plus destination. However, you can and MUST consider Doc fees when talking about OTD prices.

jplatt2

I understand they won't budge on doc fees, usually because of consumer protection laws require that all people pay the same. And, yes, OTD prices are the way to go when comparing prices within a state and for that reason, people are told to exclude their govt fees that are unique to their state for comparison purposes. But the dealers gross sales prices is the "sell" price of the car plus doc fees. What you are saying that it is reasonable for a Fl dealer to make a lot more on the sale of a car than a NY dealer. That's non-sense. I want to minimize what the dealer receives and you're ok with him making extra if he's in a state with higher doc fees. You don't stick with "constants", you compare dealer revenue and work to minimize the total. Most will agree with me and those that don't will be taken advantage of by salesman.

jplatt2

Just one more point. Do you agree that if a dealer is in a state with a high typical doc fee, he can sell the car for a greater discount under invoice then a dealer in a state with low doc fees but doesn't give as big a discount and still make the same profit. Well, I think they should make the same profit, preferably a small profit.

fxguy

No point continuing this as i will never agree to your thinking on this issue. It is silly to factor varying doc fees into national below invoice pricing. Lets get back to talking about how low we can get these cars for.

gmanusmc

Nobody is advocating using other locations' doc fees for your own situation. What is being said is that you need to consider how the doc fee affects your ultimate price. So when you are soliciting your quotes, you absolutely need the doc fee info to evaluate total price. If you don't, you are not going to have a true picture of what you are paying. Even basic pricing will differ by location because of all the market factors involved.

Bill G

brian125

Big daddy

LET me help out my fellow New Yorker here.

Go back and read post 30,550, and 30,558, 30,575,30,642,30,660 ,30682,30,723. if you have not already.

In Nyc we have Plaza honda, Paragon, Hillside, Bayridge, Si honda. 9 or 10 long island honda dealerships.
Plaza and Paragon play alot of games. Hillside wont deal on the phone or by email. The manager has told me on several sales if i come down he will meet my price..
Bayridge is hit or miss with there pricing along with Si honda. These 2 dealerships would need to have your model to get any kind of a deal. Otherwise forget them.

Do any of these dealerships i mentioned have your model/ color.

Dealerships in New jersey have high doc fee's 200 to 500 dollars. Contrary to some in this forum when your buying a new car your first goal is to get your target price to buy which means already knowing each dealers doc fee charge when your making your offer.

Your 2nd goal is to identify each dealerships or different states doc fee charge. What ever that number is you add it to your below invoice price making that charge a wash on the bill. Most honda dealers wont remove doc fee charge they may reduce it if your negotiation skills are good and the dealer wants the sale . I have tried with 100 honda dealerships not one would remove charge but several have said they will reduce fee for me.

Your deal in N.J... 750 below invoice minus dealers doc fee charge of 300 to 400 .. So logic should tell you 350 below invoice for a almost 10 month model 2013 is not a good deal. You need to keep on negotiating. Your asking price to buy in New Jersey should be 1300 to 1400 below invoice. This takes away there high doc fee charge. You seem new to the buying game so take your time dont rush and make your best deal at the end of the month. Please read my earlier posts. Post my name in any future posting if you want my advice.

If Hillside honda which is in Queens has your model i would go down with the intent to buy for 1000 below dealers invoice. With doc fee's only 75 in N.Y. if you purchased a 2013 for 1k below that puts your sale price at 925 below invoice plus dmv and taxes. If your reading the board you see that supply and demand has affected pricing. Your asking price to buy is very conservative and you should be able to make this deal.

New Rochelle is a high volume dealership if they have your 2013 model make a pitch now and at the end of the month for 1200 below invoice.
I had New Rochelle close to 1400 below invoice on a LX model last month for a poster in this forum but i cant pull the trigger on a deal if i'm not the buyer and have no clue if he really intents to buy. I proved to these guys if you negotiate at the right time you will have the best chance to getting your targeted price.

Knowing How and When to buy is the key to getting the best possible deal with least amount of dealership B.S. and game playing

fxguy

This conversation is about below invoice quotes alone. I have repeatedly said that Doc fees come into play when you are talking OTD prices. On this forum and every other one i have been to, when you are talking invoice, it is always what the dealer is paying the manufacturer for the car PLUS destination. This is true on the main Edmunds.com site as well as truecar. Doc fees do not factor into it at that stage. Stop confusing people by telling them to add non standard Doc fees when talking about how much below invoice they are getting their car for. Man, can we get back on topic and get some more "i just bought and i paid this" posts?

brian125

fxguy

Doc fee charges has changed the game in the last 10 years. A below invoice price years ago was fine. Dealers had a 25 dollar paper work fee on the bill. thats reasonable. Today you cant make any deal without knowing dealers doc charge .. This is a dealer profit charge. from 75 to 800 dollars.

You make a deal for 500 below invoice price thinking i got a good deal. now your signing the paper work and bam whats this 500 dollar charge. Oh thats are standard fee we have to charge you that. Dealership charge. Sorry

High doc fee charges has changed the buying game.

There are very few people in any of these forums with the knowledge and experience with buying tactic, tips and advice like you get in here with several posters.. We leave no stone Un turned in this forum thus helping you understand and get the best possible deal.

I promise i wont comment on this again this is just car buying 101