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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • Try this: Proven to work with Honda on Odysseys. Give it a shot on accords.
    1. Go to Honda.com website and click on "find dealer" (DON'T use the request quote button).
    2. At that point, select "request a quote" next to each dealer after you have list of dealers.
    3. Fill out your info. don't put a phone number down, you call them if you want...they don't call you.
    Ask for the following:
    - Obviously request model your looking for in dropdown.
    - In "comments" section put something to the effect:
    Would like an OTD (out the door) quotation on Whatever Accord Model. Please itemize charges: Base Price, destination and document fee; only extras should be tax, title license. If Honda is offering an incentive on Accords (or dealer cash) tell them you understand there's an incentive and you'd appreciate them putting their best foot forward, incentive factored in. Additionally, please include the color selection that you have available. I'm checking with several dealers in the area and will be purchasing shortly, so your promptness and bottom line is appreciated.
    Don't give them your phone number, you don't need anyone calling you.
    - Press Send
    4. Go Back to "find dealer" enter your zip and you'll get the same list. select "request quote" by the next dealer and this same form that you initially entered will be available. just press send.
    5. Repeat to at least 8 dealers in your area. If your in a metro area. I'd send to everyone EVEN the closest.
    5 1/2. Go to your credit union, capitalone.com or whomever your comfortable with and get your own financing. You should have a check in your back pocket when you go to buy the car or their going to bend you over. The big players will overnight you a blank check. If your a costco member, check out costco dot com and get the capital one rate there. You should get 5.9 apr for 60 months, which you will use as your fallback. Sometimes honda offers better, but it's in leiu of the incentives. Figure out what works best for you.
    6. Sit back..you're in the drivers seat.
    7. Wait for quotes to come in.
    8. You'll find out who's serious.
    - some will give you HIGH price
    - some won't respond so go to their website and request a quote with same info as above (I found Honda has some deadlinks on their website to dealers) On the day before I was ready to buy, I called the nonresponders and was able to get them in the mix.
    - a few will give you a pretty aggressive price
    - you may end up with a clear cut low ball great price
    9. Forget about the morons that ask you to call them for an appointment (The VIP treatment means getting bent over). On the ones that are really high, if you want reply and tell them they are off by whatever the diff is between them and your lowest price. i.e, "you're off by $2600, if that's your best shot, I'll pass thanks".
    10. Let the few that are low sit a few days and then reply back. Note that you appreciate their offer. That you have a few others that are right there and that you'd like to buy from them. Your making the decision in the next 48-72 hours. (If you can time this for the end of the month, I think that will work in your favor.) Is this your best price? (If you want any accessories, nows the time to ask for them). Alternatively, you can name a price to see if they can get there, personal choice really here. I don't think you have anything to lose by seeing how hard you can push. If they won't hit the lowball price, then ask how low they can go and say you may come back if the lowball dealer doesn't come through. Here's why, my lowball dealer was writing a quote that said on an 08, but only when I called and said I'll be over this afternoon with a check for this amount for an 08 and he affirmed but then called back in 10 minutes to say he meant 07. Make sure again to qualify that Destination should be included and that there should be no dealer extras on the car (ask them to confirm this). Get an itemized out the door price. Base+Desination+Doc, + tax + title + license. Make sure that the documentation/processing fee does not exceed $100. In some states the most they can charge is $59.
    11. Wait for your responses. Hopefully you should have a pretty good price (better than you have from your other guy).
    12. Take the best quote you've got and email it to the internet dept sales person of the dealer closest to you and tell them you'd like to buy local if they can beat it. If they match or beat and have your color choice go buy from them.
    13. If not, go back to the person with best quote and requalify the details? "You have this color in stock and this price includes destination? Only Extra's are Tax, Title License? They reply in writing with a "yes", then call them to once again firm these detials and make an appointment to meet them and drive (and hopefully buy) the car.
    13.5 When you show up prepare for the bait 'n switch or worse but STICK TO YOUR GUNS. HAVE YOUR EMAIL CORRESPONDENCE WITH YOU. I did all of the above plus called on my drive to the dealer and confirmed everything was still true; only to be told that they had only one van and it wasn't the color we had discussed. In addition, it had accessories on it that I did not want. As a result, I threatened to leave (coat on and stood up) and suddenly a van showed up that was what we wanted. Drive the EXACT Car you are buying. Make sure it's the year you want and check the odometer. Make sure you like it, no rattles, etc. Inspect it for scratches, etc. Should be fine, but make sure. You've come this far, don't overlook final details. (After we had agreed to a deal, I got the "it's the salesman's/manager's fault" from the manager/salesman when the other wasn't around.)
    14. Show up with your own financing as noted previously. When you pull the check from your pocket, their going to ask where/what your rate is. If you have good credit tell them you have 5.5% for 60 months. If they ask to see paperwork details on the check, make sure the ONLY thing you show them is the dealer details DO NOT SHOW THEM THE INTEREST RATE...DONT EVEN bring those details with you. It is NONE of their business. If you have good credit (780+, odds are they'll beat the 5.5% and you'll save even more money. Show up without a blank check and try to get 5.4% or lower and odds are it'll never happen.
    14.5 You have a trade-in? Research your price on kbbdotcom and edmunds dot com. If its and older car with high mileage don't expect to much, sell it on craigslist, someone at work, or expect to take your $1500 at the dealer to be done. If you have a car thats actually worth something, again, do your homework. Get a price from carmax (they'll give you 7 days to decide to sell to them or not). At this point tell the dealer you brother inlaw was supposed to buy it but he backed out. They'll give you a lame price, tell them you need $500 over whatever your carmax price is..with the carmax price as your target.(Dont tell them you have carm
  • tbm4530tbm4530 Posts: 7
    hey you fellow jersey guys(+girls), what did you pay for your documentation fee? The dealer I might go with wants

    The 4 years reg for NJ DMV is $251 plus
    $55 doc fee
    $125 messenger fee
    $9 notary fee
    $10 temp tag
    $5 tire tax
    $204 total
    Grand total $455

    I'm trying to get what is the messenger fee, but they are not being very straight with me, Anybody have any thoughts on these costs?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,930
    Those stores could be buying the rate down.

    Heck, I could give you zero percent but we would be paying the interest ourselves. Of course this would probably affect the price of the car.
  • I am in the market to buy the `08 Accord and was curious to see what others have paid for it and what deals I can get. I live in Southern California.

    Thanks :]
  • gbg37gbg37 Posts: 1
    Well this forum helped me out buying my new Accord so it thought I would give back to the cause. Today my dad and I just got done purchasing a new Accord Sedan EX 5sp MANUAL in Alabaster Silver and Grey interior. Unfortunately the car is a little rare so I'll have to wait 3-5 business day's to get the car. We also took advantage of the 2.9% financing. Paying 2.9% makes a lot of sense when you can keep the rest of the money in a CD for 4~4.5%.

    I started by getting internet price quotes from around the area and put them all on a spread sheet end result this is what I got from a dealer in Northern Illinois.

    Selling Price including destination 20,996.00
    splash Guards 199.00
    Interior Illumination 254.00
    Total Selling Price 21,449.00

    Tax 1,304.63
    License and tile Fee 80.00
    Document Service Fee 150.00
    Out The Door Total 22,258.63

    I'm pretty sure that I paid a bit to much for the splash guards and Interior Illumination kit, but I wanted them and we got the car for a pretty good deal. I also got rid of my 95 Probe with 130,000 miles for $800. Once again I probably could have got another 300 out of it but then again maybe not and I don't have to deal with it.

    Altogether the salesmen were courteous and professional and it was a very good experience.

    Hope this helps

    GG
  • I got an offer for 26,300 + TTL for an Accord Coupe EX-L V6

    Should I take it or keep trying around?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,930
    Oh, let me think about that for awhile....

    That is a WHOPPING 24.00 over invoice on a hard to keep in stock V-6 Coupe.

    Naw, you should probably shop some more.

    Man, that must be a miserable market wherever you are!
  • Most of the dealers around have been offering closer to 27k

    the next best i got was 26,433 though

    I just emailed the dealer that gave me that price with the 26,300 offer

    I'll see what comes up.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,930
    Ok, I'll be serious now...

    Why are you doing this to yourself.? Just buy the car!

    Something doesn't sound right. These are very popular cars in short supply and I see little reason a dealer would give one away like that.

    Are they one of these places that charge a huge doc fee?

    Are they going to add destination charge to that number?

    If this is for real, the market must be ruined in your area!
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Posts: 1,721
    Well they arent that popular, because I don't see any on the roads. Honda is going to take a hard hit.
  • guru919guru919 Posts: 3
    Just posting for a reference for others. Got the 2008 EX-L V6 sedan (red/tan) for $25500 (incl dest and dealer fee). Added another $300 for tinting and mudguards (probably could have saved a few $$, but not worth my time). Added tax (6% + $50) and $160 for tags. They gave me kbb trade in value +$1000 (so they'll make some money there) but they gave my Highlander a much better rating than I would have -- I would have used fair, but they used good. Went in at 2pm and left at 5pm with the car. Did not finance. Good luck all -- hopefully I'll have 6 years of enjoyable, reliable driving.
  • sparklandsparkland Posts: 108
    That is a great price. Here in Denver a nice EX-L 4 cyl. is going for $25,000.

    I am not sure how well the Accords are selling because the dealership near my house has five Accords parked near the street, a variety 4 and 6 cylinder, leather and no leather--they are not moving. I do not think people want a $400-500 monthly payment. The only way to get it lower is to have a BIG downpayment or a nice trade-in.

    With the unfavorable lease rates it makes it a tougher sell.

    Brad :lemon: :shades:
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,047
    Can anyone give me a ballpark as to what kind of price I can expect to pay in the Chicago area for an LX-P I4 auto?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,930
    Because you don't see any on the roads means they aren't popular?

    Compared to the sedans coupes never sell as well. Maybe 10-15 percent of Accords built are coupes.

    Still, they are in pretty tight supply. NAVI V-6's are nearly impossible to find and they are always presold before they arrive.
  • hy2000hy2000 Posts: 2
    I am in the market to buy a new 2008 Honda Accord LX, I live in Maryland, DC metro area. Can someone give me an idea how much I should pay for the final total price or share what you pay for 2009 Honda Accord LX? Thank you.
    HY
  • lsvjr13lsvjr13 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Just interested to know which dealer in Miami you got that price from. This past weekend I visited South Motors and their best price was $26.6k plus tax and tag, all fees are in the price. I am also looking for an EX-L V6 in white pearl though.

    Thanks.
  • I dont think i would do accord to accord swap. VSA is good if you live in the area with alot of snow,but you can just drive more carefully and you will be fine with it. or just get winter tire with the extra money you have to dish out to get a newer accord. Accord to civic .. maybe. I really dont think mpg saving will justify what you lose buying another car tho. You will be losing money no matter how much you save on gas (which isnt that much epsecially for intown driving, couple mpg at most, more likely 2mpg, honda v6 is very good on gas). If you do switch over to civic or newer accord, dealer is making money on you; most likely in $1500-$2000 range otherwise they wont do that trade. Plus they will make more money when they sell your car. So why would you want to do that. Stick with your current accord at least till warranty runs out and get new gen accord ex with 4cyl (190hp compared to 160 in older gen) or 2009 civic (it will get some exterior and some other upgrades next yr). You will be much happier with newer models and next year there will be more deals on accord and all the kinks would be all fixed. Trades you metioned just arent enough of upgrade or downgrade to justify losing $2000.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    VSA is more important in snow and ice, but unless you never drive on wet, slippery roads, it is still very important.

    It can be helpful even on dry pavement when you need to swerve unexpectedly.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSOAk7alUKE

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yr0_UDCRk00&NR=1
  • jamminx1jamminx1 Posts: 4
    Started shopping for an LX-P this past week. Talked to the internet sales person in Rock County WI, we're at $20,370 including the $635 and no dealer add ons. I'm taking our 98 Accord LX in this week for trade valuation so I'll see how things change then. Also, got $20,644 from one Milwaukee dealer and waiting for the price from the dealer that sold us our 98. They are usually very competitive and I'll probably be seeing them this week. May move up to the EX with the 3.9% for 60 months. Our local dealer priced at $21,760 and I told them they had to move alot to get me back. I'll see what I hear from them this week. Same thing when we got the 98, they did't want to deal so another dealer got the sale and they get the service.

    Rock County could be 90 minutes depending on where you are in the City. Good luck would be interested to hear what you're getting for prices.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I would not do it for that much difference.

    ESC or VSA is almost not needed in a FWD drive car. Why not? Almost every FWD car will understeer when driven at the limit. What is the "cure" for understeer? Simply lift off the gas - that reduces your speed (less speed = more grip) and transfers the weight of the car forward (more weight over the front wheels = more grip). Even if you lift completely off the gas the car is not likely to come around on you (oversteer).

    In a top heavy vehicle (e.g. SUV) it can be a nice aid to prevent roll over. It RWD vehicles it is a must have as it takes much more skill to recover from oversteer that you normally find in a RWD car at the limit. In addition, if you start over steering in a RWD and do the FWD "simply lift off the gas" thing the odds are very good the car will snap spin when the weight transfers forward and unloads the already slipping rear tires. In a RWD car you have to counter steer ("turn into the skid") while feathering the throttle. In some cases you may have to give the car MORE gas to transfer the weight to the rear and power out of the skid. Not something that most drivers ever practice nor even know how to do.

    If you want to trade cars for other reasons - better gas mileage, more room, other features AND get VSA in the bargain that would be one thing - but to trade to just get it on a FWD would not be worth it (to me). If you live where you get snow, spend the money on a spare set of steel rims and some nice snow / ice tires (I am using Michelin x-ice on my snow day car and they are super) and you can handle the slick roads much better than running all season tires in a VSA equipped car. If you don't live where you get any snow, then next tire change ditch the all season tires for some summer tread wet / dry tires and increase your grip in the rain and in the dry. All season tires do nothing well - a lot worse than snow tires in the snow and a good bit worse than summer tires in the rain and dry. Much better to spend your money on good tires than the VSA. You might also invest in a little performance driver training or even make some SOLO II runs with your local SCCA group. Get some practice driving your car at the limits.

    Dennis
  • markludmarklud Posts: 41
    Just put a deposit on a 2008 EXL- V6 sedan in Northeast Pa. for about $26,200 + tax and tags. Came out to just under $28,000 out the door. That included a set of mudflaps... I'm thinking that's just about average selling price for that model, am I correct? Invoice price is supposedly $26,051...
  • So I test drove the EX-L with both the 4 and 6 cylinder recently. Trying to decide if it is worth the upgrade and just go with the 6, or if the 4 will be enough.

    What did you choose? 4 or 6?

    I am considering the EX-L and am trying to decide between the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and if I want to get the Nav. I have 2 external on dash nav's, but I sure do like it built in.

    Thoughts? are the V-6 or Nav worth the $2K+ price tag in your opinion. I sure do want them both :)
  • ral2167ral2167 Posts: 642
    personally i'd rather have the ex-L 4 cylinder with a built in navigation than a 6 cylinder without navigation... there's plenty of get up and go with the 4 cylinder, plus you get better gas mileage.... so if i had to choose between one or the other, i'd go with the built in navigation...
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,930
    As a suggestion, if you drive a 4 cylinder and you like it, don't drive a V-6.

    Of course, the V-6 will be smoother and more powerful but the 190 four has more than enough power.

    As far as NAVI. Very few people actually "need" a NAVI system but they are certainly cool. The aftermarket ones don't hold a candle to Honda's factory unit.

    It all boils down to what is important to you. Nobody "needs" a sunroof either.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    If automatic rerouting around and avoidance of freeway traffic jams is useful to you, then a portable will be better.
    Honda has decided to not offer traffic service as an option for the Accord.
  • badtrannybadtranny Posts: 33
    No shortage of 08 Accords in CT.. In particular the V6 models.. Today is the FIRST time I have seen an 08 Accord on the road, that didn't have a dealer plate on it. It was a v6 by coincidence.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,930
    Maybe you just need to get out more? ;)
  • I would agree and say that there aren't a ton on the road, but enough to start noticing them. Anyone think the 4 cylinder is enough power? I had myself, a friend, and the sales guy in the back seat and the 4 definitely seemed to struggle a bit getting up to speed. I realize a Honda isn't a sports car by any means, but I definitely don't want to feel like it is underpowered in more aggressive driving. That i-95 demands aggressive driving at times as anyone who drives it knows.

    Debating on a 2008 Accord, or a 2005 to 2006 Acura TL. Decisions Decisions.
  • bug4bug4 Posts: 370
    With regard to nav, I think that is decision that no one can make for you. It is a VERY expensive way to get that feature. However, I'm sure it is a nice convenience for those that 1) will actually use it and 2) can (or want to) afford it.

    With regard to the V6 vs. I4 issue, you might try the I4 v. v6 forum for lots of good comments. In my opinion, like the navigation issue, the 6cyl. is a luxury that virtually no one "needs." Further, there are potential "issues" with the cylinder deactivation system that are very well explored in the Accord VCM forum. Having said that, the power advantage of the 6cyl. over the I4 is enormous. You definitely get something for your money when you opt for the 6cyl. I have an I4 08 Accord EX-L and, while it certainly has adequate power, it likes to down-shift on hills and doesn't come into its own until the RPM gauge is getting up there. The V6 has considerably more low-end umph! Really, its a matter of how you drive. If you commute in your car and spend little time on the open road, I personally would think the 4cyl is the better choice. If you spend lots of time on two-lane roads at high speeds or hilly interstates, the 6cyl. might be nice. Good luck!
  • bug4bug4 Posts: 370
    If you opt for an Acura TL - -make sure and check out the new car prices before you go and purchase a used 2005 or 2006. I checked out new 07 TLs before I bought my 08 Accord -- there was only a $5000 price difference between my EX-L I4 and the base model TL. . . . even less if considering an Accord with a v6 and navigation. With the tightening car market and economy, and with a new model of TL coming next year, I think it might be a great time to step into a TL --- plus they're GREAT cars if you don't mind the premium unleaded.
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