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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • Thanks for the info, I have seen some decent deals, but I am also waiting for better ones. I also noticed that for big holidays, like memorial day or quarter ends, are also good time. The other accord I bought was from garden state Honda and was via their special emails 4.5k off sticker price. No hassles as long as you show them their email. Their doc fees are $399 so I will say closer to 4k off my 08 accord.

    Open Road Honda and garden state send some decent prices via email every now and then. Tracking those emails, I noticed that like I said before on memorial day week they go down as much as 1k from their normal low prices. So I will see if I will wait that long. Good luck w yours.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    Open Road has high doc fee's 398.. Presidents weekend is a really good time to get a great deal on all cars.. Dealers looking to push out those numbers and getting$$$ support/ incentives from there companies..

    Memorial day week is end of year sales to me. you always can get great pricing on any vehicle at that time. I like to buy my new model cars in Dec of the previous year or in the next 2 months at best. I keep them 4 to 5 years. This gives me the full benefits of owning the vehicle that whole model year. Buying a new car is probably the worst investment we all can make financially with repairs and depreciation values. But like i say... You only live once.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • True, that's why I was considering that 2013 Mazda at the $16, 860 OTD, But the Accord is a better value/reliable for like 22k OTD though..... Well let's hope these dealers start throwing some good deals in the upcoming weeks. Good luck everyone.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,680
    The big question for you is it worth the savings of $5140.00 to go with the Mazda6...a large amount to be sure but is your overall happiness worth that amount to you? A tough question that only you can answer because you will have to live with this choice. Another suggestion is to buy the Mazda and drive it for a few years, or until the mid cycle refresh is done onthe Accord. This way all the kinks will be out of the Accord and you'll feel good about the $ saved right now. Who knows, maybe your financial situation will be better in a few years? Just something else to throw into the mix here but this is a big decision and maybe waiting a few years would be the best of both worlds actually...? You're still so undecided so maybe it just isn't the right time to go for the Accord because if it were, it'd be in your driveway by now...or at least a deposit would be in Honda's hands!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    edited January 2013
    Sandman,

    Very sound advice. i agree with you.... There is no reason to rush your decision. If money is a issue or a deciding factor the mazda 6 would be a no brainer. Reliability and resale value is on the Accords side. Presidents weekend would be a great indicator with some very competitive pricing for both vehicles. Wait till then and then you could decide..

    Brian

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    Jammike,
    your right ...Dealers have the leverage right now. always close your car deal on the last days of any month or last day. Thats when you have the most leverage to getting the best price. All dealers will give you there best price on the last day of the month.. Any info or pricing you receive or hear about before that last day you use to help better your deal.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Wise advises guys, Again, the Accord was my only option until I bumped into this "insane" Mazda 6 deal. Financially it makes sense even if I just want to save some money in my monthly payment.
    Unfortunately, I must decide in a couple of days as they are running out of leftovers in the red I wanted (and the only color I would go for even at that price, as thats the only color that appeals to me). They didn't have it in stock and were going to get it from ny.Plus my local dealer was matching the Fitzmall, MD Prices, as that's how they went so crazy low. So I might have to give it some thought until tomorrow at least. If not I will go for the original target, the accord. Thanks for all your inputs.
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Posts: 32
    edited January 2013
    It appears that one can get a Sonata GLS with PEP for $20k OTD (with HMF cash, owner and student/veteran rebates), Optima LX with CP for about $21-$21.5K (with KMF cash and student/veteran but without owner or competitive rebate) and Accord LX for $21.5k-$22.5k.

    An Optima's safety rating is below Accord but higher than Sonata. The mileage is same as a Sonata but less than an Accord. Hence, one will be paying about $1k more than a Sonata for its slightly better safety ratings.

    IMHO, it may be better to spend about $2k more on an Accord instead of about $1k on an Optima (same mileage as a Sonata) because an Accord has better mileage (min $2k gas cost saving for about 100k miles) and highest safety ratings among these 3 cars. Hence, the effective cost of an Accord could be about $20k, if one is planning to keep the vehicle for a long time (> 100k miles), provided there is no huge repair bill due to its shorter warranty. In addition, one's mind will be peaceful knowing that he/she has the vehicle that has the highest safety ratings in its class at the time of purchase, besides the higher reliability and reputation of a Honda vehicle.

    Earlier, I was ready to purchase a Sonata. The vehicle was supposed to be at the dealer's lot before Christmas. But it did not come due to some issues. It will be coming only towards the end of Jan. I have the buyer's order but did not sign it yet. Thankfully, I came across IIHS 2013 tests around Jan first week. After seeing the IIHS 2013 small overlap tests, I just cannot digest the fact that Sonata's side-curtain airbags did not open. IIHS says about 25% of frontal crash is similar to this test.

    An Accord's style and warranty is not as good as an Optima/Sonata but it's mileage and safety ratings are better. Right now, I decided to go for an Accord 2013. May be it was a blessing in disguise for not getting the Sonata in time.

    If, I would have across the IIHS 2013 test before Dec 31, I would have shopped for a Honda before Dec 31 and obtained a decent deal on Dec 31. Right now, I am getting offers (Accord LX) for about $21,200 before TTL. I can get much cheaper price (around $20,600) in CA but its sales tax is very high and it negates the difference.
  • Because this forum has been incredibly helpful, here is my report:

    The target: 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Black/Black with deck lid spoiler and cargo net. (First Edmunds thank you shout out to “fg_for_honda” who made me realize I couldn’t have installed the cargo net myself). My 1999 Accord is a V6, and it still purrs. I believe the extra price is worth it.

    I like to number items, so:

    1) Things I’m not good at: face-to-face negotiations and listening to a salesperson tell me something I know to be false (i.e. “my cost is …..” or “this deal is only good today”)

    2) Things I am good at: data collection, organization, cheapskateness. I’m a little bit OCD about this. You should see my spreadsheet.

    3) What I’m about to tell you took a long, long time. I was sure I knew what car I was buying almost a year ago (Kia Sorrento before the MPG debacle, Prius V, Sonata, and then in the nick of time, the new 2013 Accords were released).

    4) The Edmunds forums saved me several thousand dollars back in 2007 when I bought a Camry Hybrid. Forum rules: You Must Read At Least The Last 50 Postings Before Asking Your Question. It’s almost always already been answered. Also, maybe don’t stop by the forums when you only have 30 minutes left to make a decision on a purchase. I’m just sayin.

    5) I absolutely realize that if I keep a car for 8 years (or 14 like last time), any $100--$500 in savings won’t really amount to much. But I can’t help it. I also realize that every day these things are for sale, my price starts to look not as impressive. You never check prices _after_ buying a new TV, do you?

    6) Research I did, besides Edmunds: I downloaded every free kindle book on car buying I could find. They mostly all say the same thing, which we all sort of know. One guy who stood out runs this website: http://www.fightingchance.com/ I did not pay for his service, nor his e-book (which was free for awhile), but his big, overarching thesis is that INVOICE PRICE HAS NO BASIS IN FACT. I tend to believe him. 15 years ago, before we all knew the exact invoice price, dealers had a much larger spread between Invoice and MSRP. Now that spread is a few thousand dollars at most. It’s still valuable as a comparison tool because the whole country has the same invoice price, but the next time a salesperson tells you that invoice price is “their cost”, you should laugh at them. We have no idea and won’t have any idea how much any particular vehicle costs. Which is fine. You just want the cheapest OTD price. You shouldn’t care how they got to that price (holdback, incentive, doc fees, year-end-quota). He also wonders why we care what an “average price paid” was through truecar.com when none of us want to be average.

    7) I signed up at: Carwoo.com (okay to get an idea of names and price ranges of internet dealers), Edmunds/Truecar/USAA/AAA/Costco/cars.com. This was just to collect names and e-mails and to see what the general public was paying. Costco is a valuable service that charges about $500 over invoice at the time I was shopping. If I was short of time, or less OCD about data, I’d definitely do it that way. You walk in and sign. I also tried carhound.com, which is like an online car broker, but they came in several thousand dollars higher.

    8) Everyone should read the following post before buying. This guy makes my record-keeping and data collection look like small potatoes. He tracked VINs for Pete’s sake. http://www.piloteers.org/forums/5-your-experience/31956-how-you-should-buy-your-- next-new-vehicle.html

    9) Finally, http://www.realcartips.com/guide/newcars.shtml said kinda the same thing.

    10) I test drove about six weeks before purchase target date. I told them that they were my first stop of five stops. Honda, Hyundai, Kia, Toyota, Subaru. Of course, I already knew what I wanted, but they didn’t have to know that. I tried out a few things on the test drive, but didn’t really put the car through the paces. Don’t let them run your credit. Keep your drivers license in view if you can. As I was walking off the lot, a young (kinda sleazy) floor manager asked me to step inside to run some numbers. I politely declined. I didn’t step inside another dealership until well AFTER I had purchased my new car.

    11) I aimed for the last few days of December. I must be honest here, though we all believe it, I’m not entirely convinced that my timing resulted in any savings at all. I bought on December 28th. A Friday. After purchase, my sales guy made no mention of my timing after I asked.

    12) I sent out feelers for sales people through my social media universe. My klout.com score is 63, for those of you who know what that means. I have a pretty large online social circle. This led to three contacts at three different places. I added them to my spreadsheet.

    13) Then I added every sales person who had responded to carwoo, costco, cars.com, edmunds, truecar, etc.

    14) Then came the first difficulty. How do you find e-mail addresses for internet sales managers without calling them (I’m no fan of the telephone)? The honda website has links, but you have to change your zip code around to get a full list. I aimed for within 50 miles of my south bay area home. In some cases, the individual dealer websites had e-mail addresses. But most didn’t.

    15) I wrote my e-mail asking for a specific model and options and assuring them that I’d buy within 48 hours. I told them I would only accept e-mailed quotes. I wanted to sound informed, but not know-it-all-ish. I mentioned invoice, dealer holdback, my credit score, their satisfaction survey, and gave them three ways to contact me.

    16) I felt some loyalty to the guy who let me test drive from my local walking distance dealership. But throughout this entire process, he never once responded to any of my multiple e-mails. In fact, the e-mail address on his business card bounced. Believe it or not, when I got home from a new car joyride the day after I purchased, he had left a message asking me if I was still interested. #fail.

    17) California has an upper limit on document fees. $80. I feel sorry for Florida right about now. On the other hand, I had to pay 8.375% sales tax, so you can feel sorry for me right about now. There’s a tire fee and a DMV electronic registration fee and whatnot, but all I cared about was the price of my car, plus my two options. I was afraid my two options would make comparisons difficult, but they were mostly in the same ballpark in terms of cost plus installation ($402--$557). I got a price before TTL from all interested dealerships.

    18) I sent out 39 e-mails. Yes, 39. At 23 dealerships. From two blocks away to 62 miles away (a place I heard had good deals). Yes, in some cases I sent more than one e-mail to a single dealership. This may have caused some internal strife. One recommended salesman couldn’t work with me because his team had alr
  • hondafan31hondafan31 Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    darrin8
    I live in VA and used a quote from Weymouth to negotiate my deal from a VA dealership. Two months ago I purchased an Accord 2013 EX-L V6 no navi. Price paid was $27,794 (includes Destination Fee), $55 for wheel locks, $399 Processing fee plus VA sales tax and tags. There was no trade involved, just a new car purchase. Car dealership is in Stafford VA (Pohanka Honda). I researched pricing on the Weymouth website and secured a quote $27,794 from the Weymouth dealership (includes Destination Fee) plus a $239 processing fee. The Weymouth quote addressed the process associated with an out of state purchase. I took a copy of the Weymouth quote to Pohanka Honda and negotiated a very comparable deal. The Pohanka deal was based on the same price quoted by Weymouth for the car plus Pohanka's $399 processing fee, ($160 difference).
  • 18) I sent out 39 e-mails. Yes, 39. At 23 dealerships. From two blocks away to 62 miles away (a place I heard had good deals). Yes, in some cases I sent more than one e-mail to a single dealership. This may have caused some internal strife. One recommended salesman couldn’t work with me because his team had already received an e-mail from me.

    19) I heard back from just 12. If I was Brian125, I would have called the other ones up. But I was determined to do this without using the phone. I sent followup e-mails to those I didn’t hear from. I find it incredible that I had $30,000 in my pocket which I was going to give to one lucky salesman within 48 hours and a large number of people never responded. I left contact information to prove I was real and motivated. In one case, I sent five e-mails to the five people listed as “internet sales manager” at one dealership. None of them have responded to this day.

    20) The first prices came in. Some were exactly what they offered at carwoo, some were over invoice, some were a little bit below invoice. The lowest initial offer was $500 below invoice. After 24 hours, I sent a second e-mail mentioning the lowest offer. Some of them didn’t respond at all to this, some responded that they thought they could sell their cars over invoice; most were polite. I was likewise polite. Just because I didn’t buy their $1000 over invoice car, doesn’t mean it didn’t fly off the lot just the same. The cars are great and they are still new in the marketplace. No hard feelings. Most came down in price.

    21) I now had five places substantially lower than the rest. So I began my Edmunds-informed final push. “I am aware of how important the Customer Satisfaction Index survey is. I look forward to giving the winning bid’s dealership the highest ratings on my post-sale survey.” Next e-mail: “I have high credit scores and may be persuaded to use Honda Financing if it brings my cost down” Bingo! “If you finance with Honda at 2.49%, I’ll give you $500 in flex-cash towards your downpayment.”

    22) Yes, I already applied for and was approved at Penfed at 1.49% which I will use to refinance the Honda loan thereby saving me $500 over the life of my car loan. Penfed cost me $20 to join.

    23) Final e-mail to the winning dealership (15 miles away): “If that flex-cash ‘disappears’ before I get there, I walk; If our out the door prices don’t agree, I walk”. He assured me it was all good.

    24) And then, the big final demand from me: “We will sign papers at a Starbucks. I am NOT coming into your dealership. Do you have one nearby?” “Yes, across the street. I’ll meet you there.” SOLD!

    25) We met, I bought his coffee, we sat down and looked over the numbers. I showed him my huge spreadsheet of every dealer in California. He marveled at it. While we were there, two of his managers came into the Starbucks. They likewise looked over the spreadsheet. They were most amazed at the fact that so many dealerships simply didn’t respond. Did I miss out on a great deal from the unresponsive dealers? Maybe. But I know they missed out on my money by not responding.

    26) The winner was “CC” at Morgan Hill Honda. After my very first e-mail, he punched numbers into his computer, took a photo of his screen, and e-mailed it back to me. Within ten minutes. The guy responded to each and every one of my e-mails within 20 minutes. He didn’t pressure me. He used proper grammar and spelling. He didn’t make me wait for answers. This guy is going to make a ton of money as more and more young people buy cars online. He had his iphone with him at all times. Some of the older salespeople are going to have trouble keeping up.

    27) After papers were signed, I was required to go to the dealership to drive the car off the lot. But by then, CC and I were pals.

    28) The holidays messed with parts ordering and it took a week to get my options installed, but now with the deck spoiler lid, my car looks like an “almost BMW” from the back. My three tank overall mileage is 29 and I’ve been tearing over hills and around curvy back roads. In Econ mode, I blow over the Altamont pass without the RPMs going over 2k.

    29) For those of you data minded, these are historical pre-TTL prices for a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6:

    30860 MSRP
    30353 Truecar Average Seven Weeks Ago
    29813 Edmunds TMV Seven Weeks Ago
    29785 Google Cars Regional Price Seven Weeks Ago
    29467 Carsdirect Seven Weeks Ago
    29459 Edmunds TMV Four Weeks Ago
    29192 Costco Twelve Weeks Ago
    28792 My highest bid--he politely told me that he had more buyers than he knew what to do with at this price.
    28693 USAA Seven Weeks Ago
    28566 Carwoo Offer Seven Weeks Ago
    28292 INVOICE PRICE
    28272 Truecar Target Seven Weeks Ago
    28193 Truecar 65 Miles Away Seven Weeks Ago
    28064 Truecar Target Four Weeks Ago
    27998 Carwoo Offer (but then revoked and dealer stopped using it--rogue salesman?)
    27931 Truecar Target Three Weeks Ago
    27788 Internet Quote From Online Inquiry Recent
    27739 WEYMOUTH quote for comparison (higher doc fees, though)
    27695 Bid from 50 miles away
    27492 Bid from 39 miles away
    27477 Bid from 30 miles away
    27192 Winning Bid from 15 miles away.

    From my sales contract:
    27192 Cash Price Vehicle
    446.76 Deck Lid Spoiler + Cargo Net installed
    80.00 Document Processing
    29.00 Electronic Vehicle Registration
    301.75 California State Fees (title, tires, etc.)
    2363.32 Sales Tax (ouch)

    30412.83 Out The Door

    Thank you for all the help in this forum. Good luck out there. Remember that a car is a commodity. There is no shortage. You can wait
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    edited January 2013
    can you guys try to keep your post to a short novel. i hit my head on paragraph 148 from eye strain.

    i posted in the honda cr-v forum post number 11919 Jan ,10th on how to start to get pricing from out of state dealerships then apply it to your state . If your not a good negotiator check it out . Or if you want to read mikes above post you hopefully will be done reading it before the end of the month..

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • jammikejammike Posts: 38
    Thanks for all the information and the effort to post so many details on the Forum. Your dedication is simply applaud worthy.
  • coches1coches1 Posts: 104
    The Honda CVT Auto Transmissions needs Special hydraulic fluid
    only provided by the Honda Dealer. According to a Honda Salesperson
    the system can only be opened by the dealer.

    If this is true it is not a deal breaker but is important
    to know regarding maintenance and emergency repairs.

    thanks
  • coches1coches1 Posts: 104
    edited January 2013
    29.00$ Electronic Registration Fee LOL

    I asked a dealer about this fee when he presented it
    in his offer. He said it expedites the delivery
    of your registration. When I asked him if it
    was necessary to have this added service,
    he said no and would remove it.

    Anyone in the forum had a situation with this fee??

    CA DMV has an awesome new car fee calculator that
    includes everything.

    ;)
  • btan44btan44 Posts: 1
    Thanks for all your helpful information, i live in the same area as you and plan to buy the exact same car. My first stop with be Morgan Hill Honda and hope to get a great deal as you have.
  • liaisonliaison Posts: 47
    edited January 2013
    Thank you for the detailed post(s). I don't feel so bad now about our 4.75% sales tax. My local dealer charges $499 for doc fees and on top of that we pay the sales tax on doc fees. One thing I have noticed is that all of the Honda dealers in my area had great sales in Dec. Inventory is very low and few EX-L sedans are on their lots. I don't know if it was the season or the 2013 Accord that accounted for high sales. Like you, I drive a V6 (07) and love the extra power. Trying to decide if I would be happy with the 4 cylinder.
  • rayainswrayainsw Posts: 2,530
    I really appreciate the time it took to detail your process!
    Thanks,
    - Ray
    Rarely a man of few words ...
  • solo67solo67 Posts: 2
    When I began my car search, the first dealership I went to for a test drive actually had a ficticious Internet Sales Manager. When I'd call the dealership, the person was never available or was on vacation. But, he always seemed to answer emails promptly. When I went in for the test drive appointment, I was told he was on vacation. After being helped by someone else, I asked where the guy's desk was ( I noticed he didn't appear in the staff photos on the wall) and the salesman was speechless. Apparently, whomever sees an incoming email for the Internet Sales Manager becomes that guy for a few minutes.

    My last car was purchased through a local independent auto broker and the price is always invoice or invoice minus any manufacturer deals going on at the moment. The broker finds the car that meets my specs and has it trucked by the selling dealership (usually a mega-dealer) to the broker's location where we go to take delivery. Clearly the transportation fee and broker fee (an undisclosed amount) mean that the broker is getting the car for a few hundred below the invoice. The last time around, after a long search and negotiation, the broker price came in almost the same as the best price I could get with a dealership. The deciding factor was: buying a Honda from a dealership around here (Raleigh, NC) requires you to sign a contract (even for a cash deal) that includes clauses where you give up your right to sue the manufacturer or participate in a class action lawsuit against them. You avoid that with a broker. As someone who got a major engine repair paid for through a class action lawsuit, I appreciate the advantage of not signing that away.
  • Hankjoy,

    Respectfully ignore brian125's implication that you can't get a good deal ("You want that car you will have to over pay").

    I've done A LOT of research on this as I was dead set on purchasing a new manual. I live in Houston, and there are countless cvts on every lot, but very, very few manuals. I wanted the EX, and at one point there were only two or three in the entire state of Texas!

    My advice is to email each dealership in california that has the manual in stock and tell them you're looking to purchase the car in a week or whatever, you've been researching for the past however long, and you're just looking for the best deal. Ask for the best OUT THE DOOR they can give. (Just search online for negotiating with dealerships and you'll find some good advice.) But definitely negotiate the price online, not in person. You won't get anywhere in person.

    There was only one EX in the dark gray in Houston and I couldn't negotiate a good price on it, so I decided to order it from the manufacturer for total drive out of $25,150, the only dealer add-on being window tint. If they had it in stock and I financed with the dealership in december I could've gotten 24,500 OTD with the $500 Honda bucks. 25k OTD is almost right on invoice.

    Well the car was taking forever to arrive, I was getting antsy, and a Dallas dealership got the car, so I negotiated with them and actually got a better deal, 25,200 but with more accessories. Here's the breakdown from Lute Riley Honda in Dallas:

    2013 Honda Accord EX

    TRUE Price: $22,883.98
    Dealer adds: $500.00
    - cargo tray
    - mud flaps
    - window tint
    - door edge guards
    - pin stripes
    - wheel locks

    Subtotal: $23,383.98 plus Tax,Title & License.

    So 25.2 OTD vs MSRP of 24,605 + 790 dest + 665 dealer adds msrp = 26,060 + ~2,000 TTL = 28k+. So no way in .... do you have to pay msrp. Not even close.

    I ended up driving four hours to Dallas to pick it up, but that's the price I paid for the manual, and it was definitely worth it!

    As a side note, I'd definitely recommend the EX. After driving it for a bit I'm sold on the smart entry, push-button start, rear-view cam, and the sunroof is just a nice touch even though I rarely use it. The ONLY thing I don't like (besides the fact it doesn't have tons of power, although it's sufficient) is that it doesn't have a leather steering wheel. That's it. Bit nitpicky.

    Good luck man. Let me know if you have any questions.
  • Dealership: Lute Riley Honda - Dallas

    Price paid:

    2013 Honda Accord EX Manual Sedan

    TRUE Price: $22,883.98

    Dealer adds: $500.00
    - cargo tray
    - mud flaps
    - window tint
    - door edge guards
    - pin stripes
    - wheel locks

    Subtotal: $23,383.98 plus Tax,Title & License

    TTL came out to be $1,816, so total DRIVE OUT was $25,200 on the button. If I ordered from the manufacturer I'd also negotiated 25k OTD with zero dealer add ons, so this was a comparable deal.

    Est. MSRP OTD (with $665 msrp dealer add ons): $28,040
    Negotiated OTD: $25,200
  • Yep I did exactly what Christruong suggested. My credit was in your range (760-770), and I got 1.99 from the credit union. I negotiated with the dealership and the best they could do was 1.94 since I hadn't financed anything before. But it's sure a heck of a lot better than 4.9!
  • (And yes, I could've saved a whopping $33 (if I don't pay off early) by financing with Honday, but the credit union was great to work with so I stayed loyal.)
  • I have a question regarding Honda Finance. I am getting different rates (3.99%, 3.49%, 2.49%) for 72 months through HF. Is the rate completely negotiable with the dealer ? I thought it depended on one's credit score. TIA.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Michael - this is one of the best posts I've seen on Edmunds - detailed, informative and entertaining - thanks!
  • darrin8darrin8 Posts: 14
    Hondafan31. Thanks for the info. I did exactly what you have done with Pohanka Honda for the 13 Black Touring I am looking for but they could not come close to Weymouths' quote. This was done during the last day of December and just yesterday the sales manager called me to see if he could sell me the car. Again they would not come below invoice. One issue is they dont have a touring on the lot and if he could secure one from another dealer he still could not come under invoice. Not many Black Tourings out there right now but I am willing to wait. They do have one of the lowest processing fee's in VA but since I travel up to Boston for business i am able to purchase from Weymouth with my travel expenses paid.
  • To Brian125: sorry about your eyes.

    To everyone else, I just wanted you to know that you aren't alone when obsessing over car purchase stuff.

    It mostly goes away when you're behind the wheel. In Sport mode, my V6 acceleration nearly causes a blackout. Just kidding.

    Happy hunting.
  • I am looking to purchase a 2013 Accord Sport or EX in the next month or two. I live on Long Island, NY and I am willing to travel up to 250 miles south to Jersey, Maryland, Deleware or DC and north to Connecticut or Massachusetts. Members posts on this forum have been extremely helpful including Michael Vox and Brian125 to name a few. Brian I believe you are from my area or he metro NY area, do you or anyone else have any information on good dealerships in these states or even better yet the biggest volume dealerships and I can start my search from there. Some of the larger volume dealerships near me seem to be Huntington Honda and Atlantic Honda. I have purchased three Accords in the past and this time I'm not so much happy to get a good deal, I want to at least match the best deal out there if not do a little better. TTL are what they are and dealer fees can be negotiated or just added to a competing dealers final before tax price to get an apples to apples comparison. Whichever model I choose I want the following options included, all weather floor mats, mud guards, wheel locks, a trunk mat, cargo net and an extra gray valet key, and a third full key with remote. All prices I am showing here include the destination charge. I was hoping to get the Sport for $22,500 again with all options/extra keys and including destination. Others on this site have stated they paid anywhere from $20,922 (which seems an impossible price), $21,700........$22,150........$22,400 which all seem more realistic and doable. Any opinions? ideas? suggestions? And for the EX trim level, same options listed above, I would like to get for $23,600 including destination but not TTL or DMV fees. Thanks. James
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    Mike,
    you did a great jod on your purchase enjoy your new ride.

    Brian

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    G-lover,
    This is what i could tell you on pricing. All dealerships in new jersey/ new york will probably quote you between 400 and 600 below dealers invoice. You need to buy on the last day of the month to see who will eat there doc fee's and come to that 1k below invoice here in this area.. Target the bigger dealerships expecting to get close to 1000 or better below invoice. Key point... Dealers doc fee's . Most dealers in New Jersey have doc fee's of $299 to 400 dollars. There are several dealerships in New York with doc fee's of $75.. Paragon and Hillside Honda. So right there those 2 mentioned dealers will have a much easier time hitting your target price. those dealers are $325 in your favor already over the jersey dealers and long island dealers.. Do the math.... A N.Y dealer quotes you the same as a n.j. dealer that doc fee saving could be the difference in best price... there are alot of dealers in N.Y. with doc fee's of $199 or less.. Thats were you will get your best deal around this area in new york.. I think Paragon Honda could be the black sheep in the buying game this month. I plan on finding out.

    high volume dealerships in our area
    the 2 you mentioned
    Weymouth in M.A...... will sell at or close to 1k below / doc fee's $239
    Anderson in Maryland
    Honda of New Rochelle .. may of changed names
    Westchester honda
    there are about 4 more in our area cant think i'll post later.

    brian

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

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