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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,346
    Well.." thousands of dollars over wholesale" = Retail

    That's how retail stores stay in business and make a profit. Thry buy at wholesale and try to sell at retail.

    Also, it's not uncommon for a good store to spend 1000.00 or more in recondtioning to bring that used car up to snuff. Thsoe dollars certainly reduce the amount of gross profit in the end. I know last time I looked, we averaged around 1200.00 per car in recon.

    Hopefully you can understand the need to make a profit to pay the overhead and stay in business?
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    Hopefully you can understand the need to make a profit to pay the overhead and stay in business?

    I do understand that. However I think there's difference between making profit and trying just to flat out fleece someone.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,346
    I totally agree with you.

    I guess it's a matter of how much profit a person thinks is acceptable and not "fleecing"

    A dealer invests 15,000 into a used car and spends another 1000.00 getting it into top condition. Forgetting overhead, I guess we call could have a different opinion of what an acceptable return on investment would be.
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    A dealer invests 15,000 into a used car and spends another 1000.00 getting it into top condition. Forgetting overhead, I guess we call could have a different opinion of what an acceptable return on investment would be.

    If they truly invested 15,000 in used car and spend another 1000.00 to get it detailed (yeah right!) that's 16k. Well then 16,600 is good price. That's $600 profit.

    If a dealer sold six used cars in one week at $ 600.00 profit each that's $3,600.00 in profit in one week.

    So don't come trying to charge 24K. that's exploitation and that's what they are doing.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,346
    The detail might come to 100.00 but the new brakes (that the guy trading it in didn't think it needed) replacing the cracked windshield, worn out CV joint etc can easilly top that figure. You would be surprised what a mechanical inspection can reveal.

    Yeah, I think charging 24,000 would certainly be over the top and I doubt if anyone would pay that. I agree with you.

    I do not, however, agree that a 600.00 profit on a 15,000 investment would be worth making the investment in the first place.

    Now...take that car's portion of the overhead out of the equation and it REALLY wouldn't be worth the trouble.

    I do appreciate your opinion on this. Seriously.
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    Here is example of quote I got from dealer on a used Lexus IS 250.

    This is your Sam Linder Internet price quote

    Must ask for Betty Booher for price to be honored.

    2006 IS 250 / CG197B

    $ 26,988 + tax Lic *


    (This quote includes destination charge)

    *All prices are good for 72 hours on on vehicles in stock only unless otherwise stated.
    Price is plus tax, lic and applicable fees.

    Not sure about credit? Apply online at

    Can anyone tell me what's wrong with this quote?
  • jb_turnerjb_turner Posts: 702
    I can give a hoot what a dealer is "making" on a car as long as I am comfortable with the price.
    There is nothing wrong with shopping a price HOWEVER take into consideration that salesperson who took their time to show you the car.
    I guess for shopping to be more simple all dealers should sell at MSRP and there would be no need to shop price.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,346
    That's good. I don't expect you to give a hoot.

    It's good you give the salesperson who spent the time with you to respond to what other prices you are hearing.

    I agree, it would be a good thing to have fixed prices!
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Sales tax and registration are not set by the dealer. What you need to negotiate is the total costs that the dealer charges before sales tax and registration.
    The lower this is, the less you will pay for sales tax, and in many places, the less you will pay for registration if registration is based on the cost rather than a flat fee.
    If the price before tax is lower, then the price after taxes will also be lower.
  • rkh29rkh29 Posts: 9
    Question for isellhondas:
    Are you in Western Washington state? (near Costco headquarters, I thought you said).

    If you are, could you comment on the prices some people are posting here on getting Hondas at below or a little above invoice & destination.

    I have not gotten anything near that low from the Washington and Oregon dealers contacted so far.
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    I agree with what you are saying. If you were to go on Edmunds and find out the invoice of the car you want to purchase, for example, you knew the invoice price was 20K and you made an offer of $400 above invoice. That car would be $20,400+destination of say $600.the base price would be $21,000. In California the sales tax is 8.25%. Registration fees I believe are based on the price of the car.

    What about any hidden fees that you can't discovery before going to the dealership that might increase the total price of the car once hit the car lot?
  • rkh29rkh29 Posts: 9
    I have seen a number of posts suggested only look at OTD price, but I believe and total price of car, then tax and license info provides better details since the T&L fees vary so much state to state.
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    Did you see the price quote on that 2006 Lexus I got? Do you see what wrong with it? Oh btw, that quote came from a Honda dealer.
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    You're right. However what scare me are those fees that you find about once you hit the dealer. If there was a website that I could go to get a detail list of fees I'm expected to pay in addition to sales tax and destination charge, than what you are saying is truly the best way to negotiate over what I suggested before as the OTD price.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    You are not going to get any kind of reliable price commitment verbally over the phone.
    Give up trying.
    When the dealer is ready to commit to a price in writing, have them disclose all of their fees, add them up and look at the total. Consider any dealer charges other than sales tax and license as part of the markup above invoice.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,346
    Yes, I could walk to Costco.

    I'll try to choose my words carefully as to not incur the wrath of one of our hosts that isn't always appreciative of some of my comments.

    Because of this, I usually steer clear of the Prices Paid Forums. I followed a link and it took me here recently.

    Let me just say that some of the numbers are "over enthusiastic"

    Don't ask me what we just paid to have a new roof put on our house because I honestly dont' remember.

    A lot of factors get involved. People forget what they really paid. Maybe the trade in was a great trade that they wanted so badly they sold the new car at a loss.

    And I think "oneupmanship" rears it's head once in awhile too.

    And, sometimes, it's timing. If a person were here today during the Seahawk's playoff game, we would probably take almost anything just to log a sale!

    Hope that helps!
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    I've been going over quotes via email. They always want you to call them or come down to the dealership. So bottomline, I should go for straight invoice? Or should I consider the profit the dealers has to make an sweeten the offer for them, not taking into consideration dealer holdbacks?
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    You don't have to try to calculate how much profit they are making or care.
    The day or weekend you are ready to buy, you can try for some price you want that includes dealer fees (such as invoice). The CA DMV website has a calculator you can use to figure what registration and sales tax should be:

    You can input the price you want to pay and see what the total should be with tax and license.
    If you are shopping OTD numbers, you need to see the breakdown so you can verify they didn't make a "mistake" (such as enter 5% sales tax or claim they forgot to add registration fees) in their OTD quote that they will "correct" to a higher number when you are ready to sign the papers.
    If one gives you the price you wanted then just take it, if not, keep shopping around until you find the one that gets the closest. Maybe none will sell for invoice including fees (example: $50 under invoice plus $50 doc fee), but one will sell closer to your price than others.
    You can shop around at several dealers that day and it doesn't matter if every dealership does a credit check on you because it will only count as one inquiry against your credit if it's all on the same day.
  • amad1amad1 Posts: 123
    Thanks alot. It so good to have people like you posting on a forum like this.
  • sunnfunsunnfun Posts: 168
    I currently have an OTD price of 27689 on a 2008 4Dr V6EXL Accord W/O Nav. It also has mud flaps, body molding, wheel locks and trunk tray. Has anybody got a better price than this? (VA tax is 4%). I offered 27K and they said it would put them below invoice, I thought invoice was 25,500 on this car?
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