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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,466
    edited February 2013
    Negotiate that rear deck lid spoiler. You could get it for $299 in most dealerships installed.. you could purchase it online for as cheap as $203. I would think that deck lid is alot cheaper than $203 at dealers cost. I have negotiated the deck lid for 250 installed at several dealerships. The installation is 2 springs if your somewhat handy. Buy part and install your self.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • If only a Honda cash incentive would kick in...
  • Auto dealers always make money? Then why have so many dealerships folded. I’ve owned three different homes and all of them were in walking distance to a dealership. The Chevy dealer near my first home closed, the Pontiac dealer closed up years before GM dropped the brand, and the Ford dealer down the road from where I now live closed about ten years ago. Plus, the dealership that sold me a Mazda dropped Mazda a few years ago.
    Perhaps that fate hasn’t been shared by any Honda dealerships but I’m sure some are hurting due to over-expansion while others are having difficulty competing because they haven’t expanded enough. And I’m sure some dealerships are struggling with the interest they are paying to finance their dealership purchase.
    Now I do think everyone in the auto sales business is ethically challenged. Even our friend isellhondas, though he may be in the 99th percentile in the ethics scale among those in the business. But Brian, even if a dealer accepted one of your lowball offers, I think your first inclination would be that Honda must now be offering a new incentive, and you would start emailing other dealers instead of immediately asking for that buyers offer. And I wouldn’t blame you for taking that approach, though it is my opinion that a face to face negotiation would get you a price lower than anything a dealer would ever put in writing in an email. But while you complain about how the industry works, isn’t it really to your advantage? If it was like buying an appliance, everyone would essentially be paying around the same amount, with some saving a few bucks and others spending a few more. But whenever you do pull the trigger, I’m sure you will be getting a good deal that wouldn’t be available to you unless less sophisticated or experienced buyers were over-paying for their cars.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,466
    edited February 2013
    Agreed on your assessment but not about the face to face buying or how i buy. If i send out 20, 30 emails i'm looking for the market price first. Not what other people are saying on here.. Then i target dealerships that sell in higher volume to work my best possible deal. Here in new york/ New jersey the market price is between 400 to almost 700 below invoice price for Models, exl v4, v/6 or touring model. Maybe on the last days of the month you may have a dealer looking to push one off his lot alittle cheaper. Whether i'm face to face or on the phone does not matter when you are willing to buy that moment your calling. A sale is a sale regardless. If you learn the tricks of the car trade dealers who sell in numbers will give you there bottom line price hoping to get your business on that last day.
    There is a reason why Chevy, and pontiac are out of business. Crappy cars.. majority of folks would rather buy a [non-permissible content removed] vehicle. I must say thou American cars have gotten alot better the last 5 yrs. i like what chevy and buick have done.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • REF: 28516 (ar831)
    I am trying to work out the numbers on your deal. I am left with $1029 for tax and tags. Is this possible? Did they calculate the 6% tax on the difference between your trade and the new EX?

    I also ran the bankrate.com auto loan calculator using your numbers: $29262, 9.49% apr and 72 month term. Sadly, the $535 per month payment is correct.

    At the risk of coming across as a [non-permissible content removed] (again), it seems you traded a $391 lease payment (with 8 months remaining) for a $535 loan payment (for a very long 72 months). You never mentioned whether there was something wrong with the crosstour (high miles, poor condition, etc.) which might justify the transaction. Otherwise, this was truly a bad decision on your part.
  • I didn't know the details for Oklahoma, my bad. That sounds like a great deal. I wouldn't push it with a lower price on the spoiler, since you're getting a great deal overall. Btw, is this price the result of a long negotiation process ?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,661
    pegasus, do you understand how leases work?

    The lessor was responsible for the remaining lease payments.

    Had he/she kept the car until the lease ended and assuming the car wasn't damaged or had excessive miles he/she could have simply walked away.

    And not had a car to drive.

    Probably the wisest thing that could have happened would have been to keep it until lease end and walked away.

    Then used the 1500.00 to put down as a down payment on something else.

    I owuld have suggested a lesser car. Perhaps a Civic or an Accord LX. Nobody "needs" a sunroof or some of the other trivial accessories that come on the EX.

    I would have skipped those warantees and the tint job and taken a more conservative approach. But...that's me.

    The deal has been done. It's not the end of the world. He/she ahs a nice car to drive and next time wiser decisions will probably be made.
  • ar831ar831 Posts: 10
    I was a actually almost over the miles. I wanted to trade in the lease for a finance so I don't have to worry about miles and pay for a car I want to keep for a long time. I spoke to the car salesman today and he advised that the price of the vehicle was 23k and change but added the 3k of my last 8 payments. He said my crosstour was actually $1500 or so under but they never charged me for it only for my remaining payments. He said crosstours are rarely selling as new so the value of a used one is not so good. I can afford the new payment, I was mostly inquiring about the deal I got. Considering I have so much against me like my credit n a car with no equity it seems like an ok deal to me. I plan on paying off the car sooner then 72 months and there's no prepayment penalties. I will also see if I can refinance when my credit gets better. Thank u everyone for ur comments!!!
  • REF: 28552 (for isellhondas and others)
    1. Yes, i am fully aware that he is responsible for the remaining 8 payments of the closed-end lease.
    2. If the purpose of this forum is to help consumers and not make silly mistakes, then there is a lot to learn from this example. I feel bad that this person is in a [non-permissible content removed] situation. However, if we could turn back time, would we:
    a. buy the EX instead of the LX (or a Civic)?
    b. buy the unnecessary extended warranty at the time of sale? BTW, Florida may not allow purchases of warranties from out-of-state dealerships.
    c. buy a tire warranty?
    d. tint makes a lot of sense in FL
    e. despite having sub-optimal credit, shop around for a car loan before going to a dealer (at least he could have brought some lube)

    3. Lastly, think twice before posting on a public forum and asking the proverbial question,
    "Did i get a good deal?"

    Please, people, ask first before you take the plunge...
  • Honda Care is $635 for 6 yrs/100k miles from Hyannis Honda - This is 0 Deductible or $100 Deductible ?
  • HondaCare $100 deductible, 6yrs/100K miles for $635.
  • If we are only talking the new car price and if the $23k includes destination fee, it is a good price. You are paying $1000 under invoice (cvt, I assume). Here in southern CA, most dealers quote me around $23,200 to $23,600, and I found it impossible to get them to lower price from their quotes.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,466
    edited February 2013
    Unless you are going to commit to buying at the time of your Negotiation and letting each dealer know before you make your offer price.. most dealers will not lower the price unless they know your buying it that moment.

    This is the best and fastest way to find your lowest price and make your best deal.. Thats your leverage when negotiating. When you ask dealers to give you there lowest price 9x out of ten they wont give you there bottom line price. Especially in the beginning/ middle of any month. Price quotes Online.. dealers know you will use there online quotes to shop around.

    Last 2 days or at quarters end is when you start to conduct your business on buying. Go visit, call or email as many dealerships the last day of this month and you will for sure know exactly what you could buy your model for this month in your area. I found out the nyc market jan 31 within 2 hours. You seem well capably to do it. Be ready to buy when your making your calls. Wont get any easier than this . Why step foot in the showrooms unless your doing research or test driving a vehicle.. Buy Online its stress free and will save you hours on end sitting in the showrooms watching the salesman and his manager hiding behind the curtain playing the powerful Oz game.. Happy hunting

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I was committed from day one. I had online quotes that are $1500 under invoice. Unfortunately that dealer didn't have the color I wanted at that moment. So I had to negotiate with other dealers. I tell you the week before this dealer finally had the car, I would be happy if I could get it for $23k which is $1000 under invoice. But no one would give me that price. I believe dealers have different costs and profit models. In other words, their bottom lines are truly different. Luckily for me, the dealer who gave me the lowest quote finally got the car I wanted and they stuck to the quote. So I am out of the hunt at least for now.
  • Purchased a 2013 Accord EXL w/Navi on President's day in Northern VA (Hendricks).

    $26,887 - included door edge guards, splash guards, cargo tray, and wheel locks.
    $499 - deal processing fee
    $913 - TTL (3% VA state tax & reg. title)
    = $28,299 OTD

    Dealer included lifetime of limited powertrain warranty (can be serviced anywhere as long mechanic is ASE certified) & emission inspections. Used Consumer Report's buy program and shopped it to 3-4 dealers. CR's target price was of $27805 plus based on what I saw on this board, the price I paid seems good. Probably could've negotiated a couple of hundred dollars more but I was able to get the above done in less than 12 hours.

    I've found this board to be a valuable resource and thus returning the favor. Hope this helps those that are currently shopping...
  • Brian, I agree with you 100%, you get your best price when the dealer knows you are ready to buy, but how does the dealer know you are serious if it's all by email? That's why I still maintain you will get your best possible price (though that price will differ based on each person's negotiating skills) in person.
    btw, while shopping for my last two cars, I took along my Kindle and showed it to my salesman. Told him I would catch up on my reading while I waited for the sales manager. That put them on the defensive and I never waited more than two minutes to get feedback on an offer or a visit by a sales manager.
  • I realize your credit rating is already low, but to protect it from going lower, I suggest you confirm with the leasing company that the dealer paid off your lease. You don't want to find out the dealer's accounting clerk is on maternity leave as your credit rating drops further.
  • You have an absolutely excellent deal especially with the navi. While I had a decent invoice price, I had to pay for the assessories. He simply would not budge on throwing anything in including mats.

    Part of the issue in my region (Long Island) is that cars are in high demand after the hurricane so we don't have as much room for negotiation as I feel other regions do. (sigh).

    happy driving!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,661
    I think you probably did just fine.

    Crosstours have been pretty much a flop for Honda and the market for used ones can't be strong. Nice cars but limited in utility and horrible rear vision.

    Yeah, if you can throw some extra money at that balance once in awhile it'll help and doing so will REALLY help your credit score.
  • $28,299 OTD is a great price. I don't think anyone will find this price is Maryland where the tax rate is a lot higher. I would say that if anyone can negotiate this same car down to below $29,000 OTD, that would be the price to beat!
  • ejakabejakab Posts: 20
    "Deal processing fee"? LOL.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    edited February 2013
    "Deal processing fee?"
    Yes, that is a special fee for the v4.

    For the record, Virginia has NO cap or rules on doc fees. However, the average doc fee is 399...

    http://blog.truecar.com/2011/07/26/which-additional-fees-should-i-pay-at-the-dea- lership-what-is-the-doc-fee/#comment-53152
  • Down hither it's called the bool kaka fee...
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,661
    No such thing as a "V-4" unless you are talikng about a 1960's Saab.

    All four holes are in a straight line!
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,466
    All your emails are sent out on the last day of the month.
    Emails should say that if you will meet my offer price i will buy today with a credit card deposit.
    i like to speak directly to the Internet/ Sales manager. if we agree on price he then faxes to me the buyers order with all the vehicle info and price. Once you both sign buyers order...... its a legal document. You now pick up car when its ready from dealership and pay balance off when picking up car.
    This method does not work with a trade in or if you need dealer financing. Anyone i've helped buy this way in these forums the last 16 yrs will tell you that this is the fastest, easiest ,and stress free way of buying..

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Brian, I agree with the technique on the last day of the month with no trade.

    With a trade-in at the end of the month be ready to walk out and go to another dealer if the first one is not giving you the right price for the trade.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,661
    " Stress free" ????????

    The trouble is, any smart dealer won't give you a number to shop.

    You are setting yourself up for a miserable experience this way and a lot of stores will really play games with you.

    Our store NEVER gave a shopper a number to go shop.

    Did we lose some business that way? No doubt.

    Still, that store has been the number one volume Honda dealer in nine states for the past 33 years.

    I know you are trying to be helpful but I will say, I never saw a LEGIT deal that I couldn't beat.
  • Brian, I know your methodology. But why do you think a dealer is going to give you his best price in an email? Because you claim you will do a deal? Want to use emails to weed out dealers, that's fine but unless you are at the dealership in person to put your offer in writing, you're not going to get the best deal available. Yes, there are some people who feel intimidated dealing face to face and would probably do better doing it by email, but I'm sure you are not one of them :) And if I were you, and the dealer met your offer price in your email, I'd run down to the nearest Honda dealer and make a lower offer in person. Might take some back and forth, but I'd bet you would beat that email price.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Despite many, many, many emails, I could never get a dealership to give me a price. I think it rare anyone would be abe to get a "best" price thru email. You're gonna get that best price showing them you are a serious "today" buyer.

    I always thought it wierd someone would want to buy a car without test driving it first. Test drove one that had a squeaking sound from rear hatch, test drove a Chrysler Town Country had a bad squeak coming from inside sliding door. You never know. :surprise:
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,722
    Tried this site and liked it. You chat with multiple dealers within a couple hundred miles, and they make direct offers to you with numbers on your desired car. You can counteroffer. Seemed social and pleasant to me. I don't like an adversarial relationship with my salesperson. I see it as a win-win situation—I can get a good deal on a great car, and they can make a bit of profit and make a living. And maybe we can have a little fun while we do it. I wasn't willing to drive out of town for my rather rare desired model of Accord—EXL Navi sedan 4 cylinder in Red Basque Pearl. Wife wasn't flexible on the color. Anyway, long story short, had a pleasant experience yesterday with a local salesman who gave $2800 off list. The car will be driven here from another dealer, and will probably arrive next week.
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