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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • I have a sales manager who offered me a fair price on the accord I mentioned, around 1,000 below invoice on the sales price, plus tax, title, etc.. He is really stressing that today is the last day he make the offer, now i'm not in too big of a hurry and can afford to wait, but i'd like to have the car soon.

    My point is i'm extremely busy today, and probably can't make it without pulling something magical... would there quarter really end 2 days before the month as far as car sales total go? Y'all think he's full of it?
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 984
    >I am already worn out by spending so many hours searching this forum.<

    At some point you have to ask yourself, how much is your time worth? I used this forum to get an idea of a good price. I don't have to find the best one, just don't want to get totally ripped off. Reputation of the dealer service afterwards is also important to me, so I didn't want to shop every possible dealer around. We found our EX-L for a decent price, bought it, and have been enjoying it for two weeks now.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    You mentioned that your local dealer matched the price Ray Price gave you.That was like 750 less than invoice. Did ray price really give you that much less than invoice taking into consideration the 130 doc fee, because they just offered me about half of that number. And I talked to the manager. It just doesnt seem like these deals that people claim they got in NJ or PA are real.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    mike
    Start your calls tomm. your killing yourself getting nowhere today... the dealer i was referring to was price honda in D.E. Not in P.a. if you call price honda speak only to the internet manger. Every model is different on pricing. if by tomm night your at 300 to 600 below invoice make your best deal closest to your house. please go back and read my posts on buying and apply it to your calls tomm........... i keep on posting call as many dealerships tomm and make your best deal by Sat............ Thats were your leverage is in buying.. not today or yesterday........ and most likely not in new jersey... Good luck

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    You are right about the effort... but the only way I could see anything happening is by starting a few days before Saturday. Now I find out that Hamilton wants 150 for the wheel locks so that brings up the price with docfee to 21000. Which is the same for others ie price in pa. I dont believe anyone who deals with a PA/NJ dealer will get the car for 500 or more below invoice, its just not going to happen in NJ, whether the last day of the month, the second to the last day or the third to last day. I could be wrong but thats just the way I see it right now. And the MD dealeships, I am beginning to think that if I go there even the last day of the month they will not honor their internet prices. I dont want to drive 3 to 4 hours to find out. Some of these posted MD deals are too good to be true.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,261
    Hi Mike....sounds like you're stressed. Which dealer do you want to do business with?
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    Yes I am more than a bit stressed. I thought I could get the Accord LX CVT in NJ or eastern pa for around 20400 or 20500 inc doc fee but excluding NJ reg and tax. But it looks like its not going to happen. I am reluctant to drive to MD.
    However, I am reconsidering it... just afraid that they will not honor price when I get there. I also thought the deal had to be closed, ie paid for and receipt of car by last day of month but some posters said they actually picked up car following month. I am thinking about putting it off a month, after I try to sort some things out regarding the price. But I am wondering if the end of April would be worst because the weather is getting better by that time and more people are buying as the weather improves. I dont buy new cars often cuz I cant afford to so its important to get a really good deal. But at this point I am thinking about end of April, since no dealers within 1.5 hours will take less than 21000. My long time girlfriend's 2000 civic is still running at 260000 miles and I am trying to negiotiate the car for her just like I did in 2000. At that time I got 11.2% off list and didnt put in nearly the time I have invested so far this time. I just dont like dealing with new car dealers. They are not the most honest business's around, to put as nicely as I can.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,261
    edited March 2013
    Mike...deep breaths. Someone mentioned, all car deals have their own dynamic. Some (OK, a lot) of the deals reported here are fiction. Plus, trade-ins, accessories, add-ons, credit scores, stock levels, etc. affect each and every deal. So, no two are alike.

    The drive to buy exactly at the end of the month isn't necessary. Dealers are motivated to sell cars every day of the week, month, quarter. A slow day, a rainy/snowy day, a cold Tuesday night, etc....all could be construed as the ideal time to motivate a dealer to make a deal. Dealers are always motivated to make deals, on all days. It's why they exist. Maybe....HUGE MAYBE if a dealer needs one more car sale for end of year bonuses, you ould possibly save a few more dollars making a deal at the end of business on December 31........MAYBE!

    The ideal time to buy is when you're ready to buy. $21,000 is a good deal.

    Nothing wrong if you want to wait until April. Deals should not be significantly different then, than they are over the next couple of days.
  • 2rotor2rotor Posts: 3
    edited March 2013
    If I am to believe the prices I see people posting here, I didn't do all that well. But in the interest of sharing, I grabbed a Modern Metal 6spd for invoice + $150 in doc fees, plus $54 in title fees, and tax of course. Used Honda's 1.9% financing. No options or dealer accessories, no pinstripes or glass etching, no undercoating or extended warranties, though (almost) all were offered. The "gray" cars are relatively hard to find in these parts (NE Indiana)... the one I bought I apparently stumbled upon the same night it rolled off the truck... and the black ones are not exactly numerous, either. I did get offers from dealers as low as $21,900 (no car in stock with a 6spd) and as high as $22,300 (also no car in stock). I suppose I could've negotiated harder for a few hundred sheckels but I'm pretty happy with the outcome. A good deal on a good car. I did have a trade-in, but that wasn't part of the original offer. The price was independent of trade-in. This was the only negotiating I did, where the price of my trade-in was lower than I wanted, and they bumped it up to a level I was happy with, without trying to take it out of my hide elsewhere.

    I ended up at Tom Wood Honda in Anderson, IN. I dealt with a woman named Kelli (sp?) after getting a price via Consumer Reports' car buying service. Tom Wood has the look of an old-school dealership but didn't hammer me with upselling or treat me like I had just fallen off the turnip truck. Wish I could say the same for the dealer in Fort Wayne, which was an enraging experience best saved for another time, but involved what I feel was a bait-and-switch advertisement offering 0.9% on "all new in-stock 2013 Hondas", where "all" didn't include the Accord but that wasn't specified. That wasn't the only issue but it was a biggie.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    Thanks for the reply. I agree with everything you said, including the fact that alot of deals posted here are simply not true. Or there really is a trade even though they say there is not,etc. I say this because all the dealers are coming in at around 21000 plus reg and NJ tax. That is, all who are willing to give a good no BS price. The only exception to this is the dealer in MD. And who knows, I could drive 3.5 to 4 hours only to find out it is not true. And from my prior experience in negotiating cars for members of my family over the years, alot (obviously not ALL) of car salespeople are very distinquished in the art of lying. I am a car nut, having an intense interest in cars since before I could drive ( I have three of my own, all older models). So, with that said, I just may wait another month. But my girlfriend really needs a car soon, as she drives 20000 miles a year and her current car has 260,000 miles on it.
  • jcda231jcda231 Posts: 4
    I am going thru the same process on a Honda Accord EX-L right now. I had dealers send me their pricing earlier in the week. Some were ok with sending me pricing in an email, many were not. The best prices I received (in order) were from: honda of new rochelle, ny (they have alot of cars in the new inventory online); weymouth, ma; philipsburg easton honda, pa; and then paul miller and hamilton. I was able to find prices of $900 below invoice.
    many of the dealers would throw numbers out to me and didn't want to give me a bottom line total. I sent multiple emails back trying to clarify the bottom line. after they never answered to confirm the total amount otd, ), i finally sent an email and said that if the price was what i thought i would be (what they hinted it would be in the email and there were no other misc charges), then i would give them a deposit for the car and just fax me a buyer's order.
    hopefully, it will all work out when i drive to the dealership.

    p.s. i didn't get anywhere or the prices were very high at: planet honda, garden state honda, rt. 22 honda, hillside honda, tarrytown honda, white plains honda, friendly honda, college park honda, md, anderson, md.
    i found ray price honda to be just ok. and autosport honda insisted i have to come in (i live closeby, but its been a crazy week and i like giving the dealer that put their neck on the line my business).
  • btg27btg27 Posts: 1
    On Wednesday I purchased a 2013 Accord LX CVT in Southeast Michigan (Detroit/Ann Arbor area) for 20,500 which included destination but not documentation fee. Was out the door for $21,900. Was between a lease and a purchase. Dealer offered my 1.89% financing for 72 months through Wells Fargo.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,261
    edited March 2013
    Mike....no problem.

    I have a friend (actually, a retired Honda sales person) who frequents Edmunds. He said his dealership usually dumped internet requests, and used internet inquiries only to communicate whether they had the car the potential customer wanted. He said having a potential customer actually in the dealership was the way to get the pricing which would result in a sale.

    That said, many dealerships will quote unrealistic prices on the phone to get the potential buyer into the showroom. Then, something in the deal changes.

    Bottom line, until you see the figures on a contract, signed by the dealer, no deal is done....over the internet, on the phone, etc.

    Personally, I don't view going to a dealership and talking to sales people/managers to be adversarial. I'm at the dealership to buy a car. They're there to sell a car.

    I want to make it as quick and painless as possible. If you've done your homework (and it sounds like you have), go into the dealer. Pick out the car you want. You know what price you want to be. Write it up on your own....better yet, type it up to make it look official. Have line items for purchase price, TTL (put in a line for doc fees if you want, but I usually use a notation that my purchase price amount includes doc fees), taxes. Have a total at the bottom and tell the dealership that's the amount you're willing to pay. IF they accept it, the car is sold. If not, you'll just move on to the next dealership.

    They may hesitate and even try to bump your offer. But, you won't know until you're either walking out their door. You know the drill. Salesman will take your offer to the sales manager. Sales manager will come over, ask you how you came up with the number (tell him/her you came up with it through lots of research, and talking to the other dealers in the area). Tell him it's a one time offer to drive their car away, right now.

    My guess is if there's any meat on the bone for them to make a few hundred on the deal, they'll accept your offer. If not, they'll let you walk.

    It sounds like you have plenty of dealers close to you. Deal with them. Your life will be much easier.

    The dealer 90 minutes away really has committed to nothing for you. The local dealers pay the same amount for their cars as the dealer 90 minutes away does.

    Good luck!
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    edited March 2013
    Call today and work directly with all the internet sales managers.. ask to speak with every one, with intent to buy and hold via credit card deposit. At conversation end with these dealerships leave your buying number and move on til you finish all your dealership calls. Making your best deal by Sat.

    Above poster has some good points but walking into dealerships dealing with salespeople is a no no. If you have no problem sitting in dealerships for hours to find out there jerking you around on price then go for it. Have fun

    You would need many days and wasted hours of your life with these slim ball dealerships to get pricing answers.

    Sit in the comfort of your home and call as many dealerships closest to you and make your best deal. A faxed buyers order where you both sign it makes deal complete. The Internet managers wont play the in showroom routine.. most of them will work on there best price with you today or tomm.. Salespeople in the dealerships are paid to hold you in there and lie til his manager feels you are going to walkout.
    The game starts today and ends tomm/ night.... Happy Hunting forum

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    Making these calls today will help you determine the market price for your model.
    you may not get pricing like in other states that seem to be selling lower. Once your calls are done today you make your best deal with the dealership closest to your home by Sat.
    you no longer have to post am i getting a fair price.. you know that already. by YOUR calls

    This is the fastest way you determine Car pricing and Play the buying Game.................

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,261
    I've been in and out of a dealership to buy a car in as little as 40 minuntes, that includes getting tags and title.

    Either the dealer accepts, or rejects the offer. IF they accept it, you go to the Finance office to get your tags. IF they reject it, you leave and go somewhere else.

    Nothing scary about it.

    Personally, I've never found that you can get what I like to call a "skinny" deal by calling a bunch of dealerships asking for their pricing. They won't give that to you over the phone.

    They have to know that you're going to buy right now to get a skinny deal. And, the only way to do that is to have you in their dealership, ready to take delivery.

    Of course, there's always more ways than one to skin a cat. If you want to call a bunch of dealerships, have at it. In my experience, you won't get the deal your after until your sitting in their showroom. It doesn't have to take long, nor be painful, either.
  • gene103gene103 Posts: 47
    Brian, despite my name, I don't go that way. I'm intimidated by female supermodels. But I don't doubt that you were a real looker in your prime when you were advising people how to buy their Datsun.
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    Graphicguy, I agree. After you've done your research you go to the dealer with the price you will pay.
    Show them your price and they either take it or you walk. If you're asked "what will it take to put you in that car today?" you already have the answer.
    No need for all the stress, drama and fancy-footin around with internet people.
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 163
    Yes, Mike, relax. I know you said that since you don't buy a new car often, it's important to get a good deal. It's really the opposite. If you pay $500 more than you wanted to but kept it for ten years, you "overpaid" by only $50 a year. Granted, someone buying a new car every year is probably in a better economic situation than you, but throwing away $500 a year is no fun for anyone.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    With respect to Honda new rochelle, weymouth and phillipsburgh easton honda, did you contact these dealers by phone and who did you talk to (ie sales manager, internet mgr, etc) or did you send them an email. With weyomuth, I registered with their website in order to receive the quote. Did you do the same. Did you include the doc fee when figuring under invoice ( I assume you used Edmunds invoice numbers, let me know if you did not). How much did Ray Price want below invoice, inc the 131 doc fee?
  • gene103gene103 Posts: 47
    Brian, I have no issues contacting dealers by phone or email, but why do you continue to advise people not to walk into a dealership and waste hours when you yourself just bought your Accord by spending twenty minutes at your local dealership?
  • isantemisantem Posts: 7
    When you guys are saying I got an offer x bellow invoice, is that includes the destination fee or just the car itself. So is the dealer invoice includes the destination fee or not. I am trying to find the my target price for an EX in Virginia.

    Thank You!!!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,750
    Oh, you guys make me SO happy I decided to retire early!

    The pain and stress some people put themselves through just out of the fear that they MAY pay a bit more than someone else did!

    A lot of well intensioned "expert" advice given here that will only add to your stress levels!

    Cars sell for what the MARKET VALUE is! Just like houses.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,261
    edited March 2013
    isell....was just talking about you.

    As everyone can see by his user name, this is the friend I spoke about.....great guy. He's been an Edmunds member since Edmunds started these forums. He's a successful, retired and frank Honda sales person.

    Isell....can you give a little insight what your dealership did with phone and internet inquiries?

    Thanks!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,750
    edited March 2013
    GG, that was excellent advice.

    No smart dealer will ever give out a price over the phone or give a price in writing. that is a 100% sure way to lose a sale.

    Some stores will lowball customers and change the story when they get the customer in the door. " Oh...I thought you wanted an LX not an EX"

    I have watched frantic customers, literally drive 200 miles to "save" a hundred dollars. I knew whan a deal wasn't going to happen and I knew when another store had lied to a customer.

    Sadly, quite often the mentally and physically exhausted customer would cave in and reward the store that lied to them just to be done.

    They were also afraid someone like me would say " I told you so" I never did that but I know there were people that wouldn't give us the satisfaction of returning, hat in hand.

    It really doesn't have to be a miserable experience.

    Graphicguy has it right!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,750
    Thanks for the compliment. We were typing at the same time!

    The worst phone calls would come from people demanding a hard price.

    They would get mad sometimes and hang up.

    I would tell them.." We have been the largest volume Honda dealer in nine states for the past 30 years...we didn't get that way by charging too much for the cars we sell...bring me whatever numbers you may have and I'll see how much money I can save you"

    I have been in all levels of retail management and my phone skills were a huge factor in my success. I knew that one wrong word could kill a possible sale.

    I had to sell myself and our store quickly. " We are a family owned, friendly place to do business with...the bulk of my sales are to repeat and referral customers"

    If they had a trade in.." Our used car department routinely pays the most for nice trades"

    It was fun until the mooches multlipied. They finally got to me.
  • isantemisantem Posts: 7
    edited March 2013
    Brian,

    When you say "1075 below invoice should be the target price" is that includes the destination fee?

    Thank You
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,758
    edited March 2013
    vehicle invoice price plus dest/charge minus your offer price to buy

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • ziggy25aziggy25a Posts: 24
    iselhondas, Your recent posts tell me that you were the older type of salespeople that could not adapt to the newer way of selling cars. Yes, its a reality now that people shop and compare via the internet armed with information that would make old timer salespeople tremble. It's no longer 1998. Now, due to easily available public information, salespeople can no longer throw as much bull at the customers as they did before. Information has made the playing field more level.

    It's sad when people can't adapt to change. You probably got out just in time!
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    edited March 2013
    With a few options. 19,9 for the car. 22,3 OTD

    PenFed has great financing and it a really good CU. Did .74 for 4 years.
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