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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • guru919guru919 Posts: 3
    Just posting for a reference for others. Got the 2008 EX-L V6 sedan (red/tan) for $25500 (incl dest and dealer fee). Added another $300 for tinting and mudguards (probably could have saved a few $$, but not worth my time). Added tax (6% + $50) and $160 for tags. They gave me kbb trade in value +$1000 (so they'll make some money there) but they gave my Highlander a much better rating than I would have -- I would have used fair, but they used good. Went in at 2pm and left at 5pm with the car. Did not finance. Good luck all -- hopefully I'll have 6 years of enjoyable, reliable driving.
  • sparklandsparkland Posts: 108
    That is a great price. Here in Denver a nice EX-L 4 cyl. is going for $25,000.

    I am not sure how well the Accords are selling because the dealership near my house has five Accords parked near the street, a variety 4 and 6 cylinder, leather and no leather--they are not moving. I do not think people want a $400-500 monthly payment. The only way to get it lower is to have a BIG downpayment or a nice trade-in.

    With the unfavorable lease rates it makes it a tougher sell.

    Brad :lemon: :shades:
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,899
    Can anyone give me a ballpark as to what kind of price I can expect to pay in the Chicago area for an LX-P I4 auto?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,369
    Because you don't see any on the roads means they aren't popular?

    Compared to the sedans coupes never sell as well. Maybe 10-15 percent of Accords built are coupes.

    Still, they are in pretty tight supply. NAVI V-6's are nearly impossible to find and they are always presold before they arrive.
  • hy2000hy2000 Posts: 2
    I am in the market to buy a new 2008 Honda Accord LX, I live in Maryland, DC metro area. Can someone give me an idea how much I should pay for the final total price or share what you pay for 2009 Honda Accord LX? Thank you.
    HY
  • lsvjr13lsvjr13 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Just interested to know which dealer in Miami you got that price from. This past weekend I visited South Motors and their best price was $26.6k plus tax and tag, all fees are in the price. I am also looking for an EX-L V6 in white pearl though.

    Thanks.
  • I dont think i would do accord to accord swap. VSA is good if you live in the area with alot of snow,but you can just drive more carefully and you will be fine with it. or just get winter tire with the extra money you have to dish out to get a newer accord. Accord to civic .. maybe. I really dont think mpg saving will justify what you lose buying another car tho. You will be losing money no matter how much you save on gas (which isnt that much epsecially for intown driving, couple mpg at most, more likely 2mpg, honda v6 is very good on gas). If you do switch over to civic or newer accord, dealer is making money on you; most likely in $1500-$2000 range otherwise they wont do that trade. Plus they will make more money when they sell your car. So why would you want to do that. Stick with your current accord at least till warranty runs out and get new gen accord ex with 4cyl (190hp compared to 160 in older gen) or 2009 civic (it will get some exterior and some other upgrades next yr). You will be much happier with newer models and next year there will be more deals on accord and all the kinks would be all fixed. Trades you metioned just arent enough of upgrade or downgrade to justify losing $2000.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    VSA is more important in snow and ice, but unless you never drive on wet, slippery roads, it is still very important.

    It can be helpful even on dry pavement when you need to swerve unexpectedly.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSOAk7alUKE

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yr0_UDCRk00&NR=1
  • jamminx1jamminx1 Posts: 4
    Started shopping for an LX-P this past week. Talked to the internet sales person in Rock County WI, we're at $20,370 including the $635 and no dealer add ons. I'm taking our 98 Accord LX in this week for trade valuation so I'll see how things change then. Also, got $20,644 from one Milwaukee dealer and waiting for the price from the dealer that sold us our 98. They are usually very competitive and I'll probably be seeing them this week. May move up to the EX with the 3.9% for 60 months. Our local dealer priced at $21,760 and I told them they had to move alot to get me back. I'll see what I hear from them this week. Same thing when we got the 98, they did't want to deal so another dealer got the sale and they get the service.

    Rock County could be 90 minutes depending on where you are in the City. Good luck would be interested to hear what you're getting for prices.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I would not do it for that much difference.

    ESC or VSA is almost not needed in a FWD drive car. Why not? Almost every FWD car will understeer when driven at the limit. What is the "cure" for understeer? Simply lift off the gas - that reduces your speed (less speed = more grip) and transfers the weight of the car forward (more weight over the front wheels = more grip). Even if you lift completely off the gas the car is not likely to come around on you (oversteer).

    In a top heavy vehicle (e.g. SUV) it can be a nice aid to prevent roll over. It RWD vehicles it is a must have as it takes much more skill to recover from oversteer that you normally find in a RWD car at the limit. In addition, if you start over steering in a RWD and do the FWD "simply lift off the gas" thing the odds are very good the car will snap spin when the weight transfers forward and unloads the already slipping rear tires. In a RWD car you have to counter steer ("turn into the skid") while feathering the throttle. In some cases you may have to give the car MORE gas to transfer the weight to the rear and power out of the skid. Not something that most drivers ever practice nor even know how to do.

    If you want to trade cars for other reasons - better gas mileage, more room, other features AND get VSA in the bargain that would be one thing - but to trade to just get it on a FWD would not be worth it (to me). If you live where you get snow, spend the money on a spare set of steel rims and some nice snow / ice tires (I am using Michelin x-ice on my snow day car and they are super) and you can handle the slick roads much better than running all season tires in a VSA equipped car. If you don't live where you get any snow, then next tire change ditch the all season tires for some summer tread wet / dry tires and increase your grip in the rain and in the dry. All season tires do nothing well - a lot worse than snow tires in the snow and a good bit worse than summer tires in the rain and dry. Much better to spend your money on good tires than the VSA. You might also invest in a little performance driver training or even make some SOLO II runs with your local SCCA group. Get some practice driving your car at the limits.

    Dennis
  • markludmarklud Posts: 41
    Just put a deposit on a 2008 EXL- V6 sedan in Northeast Pa. for about $26,200 + tax and tags. Came out to just under $28,000 out the door. That included a set of mudflaps... I'm thinking that's just about average selling price for that model, am I correct? Invoice price is supposedly $26,051...
  • So I test drove the EX-L with both the 4 and 6 cylinder recently. Trying to decide if it is worth the upgrade and just go with the 6, or if the 4 will be enough.

    What did you choose? 4 or 6?

    I am considering the EX-L and am trying to decide between the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and if I want to get the Nav. I have 2 external on dash nav's, but I sure do like it built in.

    Thoughts? are the V-6 or Nav worth the $2K+ price tag in your opinion. I sure do want them both :)
  • ral2167ral2167 Posts: 642
    personally i'd rather have the ex-L 4 cylinder with a built in navigation than a 6 cylinder without navigation... there's plenty of get up and go with the 4 cylinder, plus you get better gas mileage.... so if i had to choose between one or the other, i'd go with the built in navigation...
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,369
    As a suggestion, if you drive a 4 cylinder and you like it, don't drive a V-6.

    Of course, the V-6 will be smoother and more powerful but the 190 four has more than enough power.

    As far as NAVI. Very few people actually "need" a NAVI system but they are certainly cool. The aftermarket ones don't hold a candle to Honda's factory unit.

    It all boils down to what is important to you. Nobody "needs" a sunroof either.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    If automatic rerouting around and avoidance of freeway traffic jams is useful to you, then a portable will be better.
    Honda has decided to not offer traffic service as an option for the Accord.
  • badtrannybadtranny Posts: 33
    No shortage of 08 Accords in CT.. In particular the V6 models.. Today is the FIRST time I have seen an 08 Accord on the road, that didn't have a dealer plate on it. It was a v6 by coincidence.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,369
    Maybe you just need to get out more? ;)
  • I would agree and say that there aren't a ton on the road, but enough to start noticing them. Anyone think the 4 cylinder is enough power? I had myself, a friend, and the sales guy in the back seat and the 4 definitely seemed to struggle a bit getting up to speed. I realize a Honda isn't a sports car by any means, but I definitely don't want to feel like it is underpowered in more aggressive driving. That i-95 demands aggressive driving at times as anyone who drives it knows.

    Debating on a 2008 Accord, or a 2005 to 2006 Acura TL. Decisions Decisions.
  • bug4bug4 Posts: 370
    With regard to nav, I think that is decision that no one can make for you. It is a VERY expensive way to get that feature. However, I'm sure it is a nice convenience for those that 1) will actually use it and 2) can (or want to) afford it.

    With regard to the V6 vs. I4 issue, you might try the I4 v. v6 forum for lots of good comments. In my opinion, like the navigation issue, the 6cyl. is a luxury that virtually no one "needs." Further, there are potential "issues" with the cylinder deactivation system that are very well explored in the Accord VCM forum. Having said that, the power advantage of the 6cyl. over the I4 is enormous. You definitely get something for your money when you opt for the 6cyl. I have an I4 08 Accord EX-L and, while it certainly has adequate power, it likes to down-shift on hills and doesn't come into its own until the RPM gauge is getting up there. The V6 has considerably more low-end umph! Really, its a matter of how you drive. If you commute in your car and spend little time on the open road, I personally would think the 4cyl is the better choice. If you spend lots of time on two-lane roads at high speeds or hilly interstates, the 6cyl. might be nice. Good luck!
  • bug4bug4 Posts: 370
    If you opt for an Acura TL - -make sure and check out the new car prices before you go and purchase a used 2005 or 2006. I checked out new 07 TLs before I bought my 08 Accord -- there was only a $5000 price difference between my EX-L I4 and the base model TL. . . . even less if considering an Accord with a v6 and navigation. With the tightening car market and economy, and with a new model of TL coming next year, I think it might be a great time to step into a TL --- plus they're GREAT cars if you don't mind the premium unleaded.
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