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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • No, it was a V4. No complaints.
  • It was 26K - 500 (flex cash) = 25,500.
    The negotiation went too fast for my liking. Know that I did not get the best possible deal, but the trade in was dripping oil, and wanted to get a new car as soon as possible.

    I asked for 25K + 1,200 for my trade in. The counter offer was for 25.5 + 1000 for the trade in. Ended up with 25.5 K + 1200 for the trade in (99 Camry with 240K miles, check engine light on..)
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Just so there's no confusion for other readers, there is no "v4" - it's an I4.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,621
    A V-4? Really?

    Haven't heard of one of those since a fifties Simca!
  • tatseatatsea Posts: 9
    I am also from SD and looking to purchase an EX. Do you mind sharing with me the name of the dealership where you made your purchase?
  • tegintegin Posts: 5
    Is this a decent price for a 2013 Honda Accord Sedan EXL?
    $25625 + $768.75 + $69 Tag + $499 Dealer Fee = $26961.75 - $500 Flex Cash = $26461.75
  • suri_vsuri_v Posts: 7
    Thanks a lot Brian .. your suggestions were invaluable .. :)
  • suri_vsuri_v Posts: 7
    edited August 2013
    Is that a V6 or I4?

    V6 .. you got yourself the best deal I have seen bro .. dont second guess it and buy it asap ..

    If its I4 .. i think you should be able to do better .. considering the 2014 version is just around the corner :)
  • tegintegin Posts: 5
    It's an I4. Didn't mean to leave that out. How much better of a deal do you think can be had? This is the best offer I have come across so far.
  • In Bay Area ca .How much should I pay for an Accord V6 EX-L OTD PRICE?
    MSRP $30800 . Please help thank you
  • Your sale price is $25625 - $500 Flex cash = $25,125, plus TTL. I do agree with suri V that you can do better than that.

    Read some of the past forum comments for advice on how to get the best deal. Normally, the best deals can be had at the end of the month when most dealerships are trying to meet their sales quota.

    Where are you located? How many dealerships have you already contacted for e-quotes? If you are not in a rush to buy a new car, then wait a few more weeks to contact any more dealers. In the mean time, keep doing more research.

    Good luck.
  • tegintegin Posts: 5
    I am in southeast NC, and I have contacted about 8 dealers within about 100 miles, after that the distance becomes a factor. The base (invoice?) price listed in consumer reports for this area is $25,809. The price quote of $25,625-$500 flex cash puts me at 25,125 which is $700 below invoice (If I am doing the math/deal correctly). How much lower should I be shooting for? The location I live in puts me at a significant disadvantage as the closest metropolitan area is at least a couple of hours away. Thanks for your insight, and feedback.
  • MSRP for the EX-L is $28,785 (including destination). Invoice in the northeast is $26,399 (including destination).

    Have you tried to counter the dealer's price? A good deal deal is anywhere from $1200 - $1500 below invoice. Since you stated there are not a lot of dealers in your area, getting close to $1000 below invoice before flex cash would be a good deal.

    Do you need to buy asap or can you wait till the end of the month? The best deals can be had at the end of the month.
  • tegintegin Posts: 5
    Here are the numbers for this area out of C.Reports.

    Base Subscriber Price

    $27,995 $25,809

    Destination Fees

    + $790 + $790

    Total

    $28,785 $26,599

    I can wait until the end of the month; however, that could limit the ability to get the color I want. Should I base my offer $12- $1500 below $26,599, or use $25,809 as my starting point? I don't want to turn the dealership off by presenting an unreasonable offer.
  • I would base your offer off the invoice price including destination. You could aim for $1200 and hope to get a sale price close to $1000 below invoice.
    Since the best deal you have so far is $700 below invoice, an extra $300 off before flexcash could be possible.

    If you were shopping at the end of the month, I would have recommended to aim for $1500 below invoice.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,431
    edited August 2013
    Tegin,
    Here is my suggestion. Your problem is not enough dealerships in your area. this means you need to make your best deal within 100 miles. The list of dealerships i give you are mostly in S.C. they very well may be out of your range.

    I want you to call all of these dealerships internet dept/ Manager. let each dealership know you would consider making the 5 hour trip to there dealership for 1500 below invoice plus any flex cash they have to offer for financing thru honda, Collect your best deals with further dealerships and try to make dealerships in N.C. match or beat. You might even consider if the pricing is right to make that extended trip.

    The problem you are going to find is getting a good price on the 10th of the month. You need to start your buying process the last week buying the last 2 days, last day. The S.C. dealers will realize you are fishing for pricing and might not want to budge on a starting offer. The magic words when your buying a vehicle is... I'm buying right now this minute ..Yes or No.

    Stevenson honda..............n.c
    Bryan honda.....................n.c
    Goodwin automall...............s.c
    Hendrick honda ..................s.c.
    East Coast honda ...............s.c. ... high volume dealership /this is who may give you the best deal in S.c.

    700 below invoice price with flex cash added into that number is a Terrible deal. Then if you pay a high doc fee charge your giving this dealer a huge profit on your sale.

    Good luck

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • You are right on that, Brian:

    "The problem you are going to find is getting a good price on the 10th of the month. You need to start your buying process the last week buying the last 2 days, last day."

    BTW, I will let you know what happens at the end of the month with my search for a good deal on the EX-L.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,431
    edited August 2013
    Thanks blue ,

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • suydamsuydam Posts: 930
    Or you could figure, what is your time worth? If you like the dealer, and it is close to you, and a fair deal but maybe not the absolute bottom amount, isn't that good enough? Everyone has to set their priorities.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,431
    edited August 2013
    You take all those factors you mentioned when buying your vehicle into consideration. 90% of this forum should be looking for a fair price on where the market is in there area. Knowing your area's price is the key.

    You use this forum to gauge your area's selling price and the boarding states market value. you then can make a good deal on what is the true market value. know you feel good about your purchase with the knowledge of what you learned and the deal you recieved.

    leave bottom line pricing to guys like me. your not getting what i can. I have no loyalty to one dealership i'm driven by price in the area i choose to buy.

    Thats the difference i will cover 3 or 4 states within striking range of nyc. Buying online/ by phone on last days of the month. Minimal time wasted for the sale that day.

    How ever you choose to buy is your business. just reading these posts on pricing will help you.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • tjolkotjolko Posts: 13
    After getting nowhere with the dealers around Charlotte, I bought an Accord EX-L I4 in April through Pohanka Honda in Fredericksburg, VA....very quick and easy deal. I would checkout their prices (you can get a quote within 15 minutes on-line) and those of Tyson's Corner Honda. You don't have to buy there, but it'll give you a good idea of pricing in probably one of the more competitive markets.
  • tegintegin Posts: 5
    I want to thank everyone for their advice. It sounds like I may need to back off a bit and wait till closer to the end of the month as you guys have suggested. Brian, thank you for going out of your way to research and recommend dealerships to contact. I am going to wait until the last week of this month and give it another shot. Once I get my best offer I will post it in hopes that I can get some feedback before I pull the trigger.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,431
    edited August 2013
    Not everyone is willing to drive 3, 4, or 5 hours to get pricing that is such in other area's. If you fall in this category you should contact/ email /visit several dealerships at months end and make your best deal with a dealership who you feel most comfortable with closest to your house.

    My advice, tips and experience will get you closer to your target price and pricing in other area's. Use my advice to your advantage. Most of my post concentrate on negotiation skills, finding the best price, market price in and around your area. How and when to buy, avoiding the showrooms and floor people.

    All the buyers in this forum should be able to take some great tips, and info on car buying and at the worst case do alot better than anybody walking in dealerships that have done no research.

    N.C. is a tuff market on Accord pricing. If you plan to buy there make your pitch to buy at the end of the month.

    Your 2013 Accord will be considered a 9 month old vehicle in Sept and a 1 yr old model on jan,1 2014.

    1000 below invoice price should be your starting target price in N.C. If the market is as bad as you say. Dont forget about high doc fee charges. if dealerships doc fee's are 300/400 your really only buying said vehicle for 600/700 below invoice price.

    I think poster... Bluemkn57cars... has been using this forum to the fullest watching how pricing is going in and around his area/ making lists of all dealerships who sold closer to his target price last month. He for sure has done his research in this forum and most likely it will pay off this month.

    lets see what happens in 2 weeks on pricing.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I have received a quote for the 2013 Honda Accord EX $24,500 OTD with American Honda Financing and window tint. is this a good deal?
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    The folks in this thread will be able to give you a meaningful answer if you can provide your net selling price (including destination and any dealer doc fee). You can't do anything about DMV fees and taxes and they vary by location so it is hard to judge a price with those included.

    Bill G
  • Long time looker, first time poster.

    Was looking to get a 2013 LX CVT Lease and from what I've gathered it looks like I should be looking to negotiate final price rather than the lease payment. That, and I should come to this forum rather than the lease one since the information applies to lease as well.

    I know I should wait til end of the month to do delivery/negotiate. I did that for my fiance's brother's 2013 EX I4 Accord and got 25,100 out the door (purchase) at the end of June. With year end clearance, I saw I should be looking to offer 1000-1500 below invoice. Should this price be the OTD price? The invoice for the '13 LX CVT is 21,369. Is it reasonable to go after 20,000 OTD at the end of this month for a lease? I am trying to get payments as close to 180 as possible. So far, the absolute best I have been offered with 2000 down is 210ish with everything included. Thanks for the help.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,431
    edited August 2013
    Welcome aboard,

    I will try to help you. you do need to go back into honda lease to get residual/ money factor numbers and miles desired then apply it to your agreed sale price of said vehicle. This formula will give you a ideal of how much the monthly bill will be excluding your taxes.

    1000 to 1700 is the below invoice target price on your model that you should be shooting for this time of the year.

    OTD pricing means with dmv, dealers fee's, and your state tax.

    Its always best to Put down the least amount of money on a leased vehicle. just first month payment and roll taxes and everything else into lease. If your vehicle is totaled or stolen you will loss your initial down payment.

    Give a shout out to either...... Gmanusmc or Huskerfan in the leasing forum they will give you expert advice and how to negotiate the best deal on a lease and what to look for. The Car man will give you the numbers on the model, years , and miles your looking to lease.

    What i could tell you is find your lowest sale price for your model and run the correct numbers to figure out your monthly lease.

    read thru prior posts to see what the market value of pricing is selling for in your area.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 163
    Unless your LX has a diamond encrusted shift knob, your OTD cost on an LX lease should be under $300. You are mixing buying terminology with leasing. Since you recently purchased a car, you know the OTD costs included the selling price, doc fees, taxes and title/registraton. In a lease, you will have the selling price, doc fees and tite/registration costs but you will also have the Honda FInance $595 lease inception fee and your taxes will be calculated differently.
    You are taking the correct approach, just obtain the appropriate money factor for your credit tier and get the selling price/doc fee total as low as possible. I'll let others on the board tell you what you should shoot for. However, since you lose everything paid at signing on a lease if the car is stolen or totaled, I suggest you put all costs into the lease and get 36 equal monthly payments with nothing else due at signing except your first payment.
  • Thanks!

    Lease factor is .00075 and county tax is 6.5%. Residual comes to about 13770.

    Now my question is, when you say I should be negotiating the price at 1000-1700 below invoice, does that mean that the OTD price should be 1000-1700 below invoice or the pre-tax and fee price should be 1000-1700 below invoice? I've talked with a few dealerships in the Akron/Cleveland area and visited three of them. The mistake I was making was that I was offering a trade and 2000 down. Should I not do that? Am I better off selling my old car privately? It's a salvage title 03 Hyundai Elantra. Some dealers offer as much as 1200 (which is the most I hope to get) and some like Jay Honda and Rick Roush Honda offer 200-300. Others offer nothing at all, and say they can't take it. Should I not offer anything AT ALL down? Thanks a lot.
  • jay2015jay2015 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Just Bought 2013 EXL Navi Accord in Houston, I am new to the forum not sure if the price is good , Missed to research on this forum . Paid 30K OTD

    The car has
    Tint
    Splashguards
    Seals
    Trunk Tray
    Nitrogen and Road Hazard Protection
    Wheel Locks
    Diamon Fusion and Window replacement protection

    Any suggestions I know its bit late just an opinion

    Regards,
    Jay
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