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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mcntctmcntct Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I test drove a I30 t today and liked it .. nice ride a luxurious car ...did see some of the problems with rotors dealer said he wud get it fixed .....the cars run around 75,000 miles but was quite and smooth and handled well ...is there something specific i should be looking out for? some kind of warranty nething at all ... I felt it was a gud deal ... but would love to read any other comments and advice I might get from you all .. thank you for your help ....

    future Infiniti Fan

    p.s am gonna go over all the posts now ...thank you once again
  • pegandedpeganded Posts: 3
    I have a 96 I30. Just bought it yesterday. While adjusting the back of the seat, I couldnt get it to go back. I adjusted it all the way forward & it wont go back. Cant even drive it like this. Anyone know an easy way to get it to go back?
  • finballfinball Posts: 5
    Hey again,
    Does anyone have specifics/illustrations on how to change out the headlamp housings? Got the first two bolts on the top off and now I'm stuck... I have my replacement housings and notice that there is a another bolt hole at the very bottom of the housing. Inside the car there is no physical way to get to that position on the housing. Does anyone have some input on this? :confuse:
  • appelsappels Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 infiniti I30. My "service engine light soon" has been going on and off intermittently for several years. At one point I got it checked and the code was P0420 (related to faulty emissions). After some research it seems this simply needs to be reprogrammed at the dealer as it is a glitch and does not represent an actual emission problem. The light is now off for several months and my emission inspection is due.

    The problem is, my car will fail the inspection because the faulty code is still stored in memory, even though there is nothing wrong with my emission. I'd like to clear the code and then I should be all set after a couple days of driving. I know I could get to an autocenter to get them to reprogram the ECM or clear it but they would charge me for that and I would need to take off of work. I read that there is a way to do this manually by turning a screw next to the ECM. Problem is, I do not know where to find the ECM in my car. A detailed location would be most appreciated. (Please know that I am a bit of a car novice and so I don't know what you mean exactly by things like firewall and kickboard so if you can use lay terms I would appreciate it).

    Thanks!
  • It's probably the starter. What's happening (at least, what happened in my case, which was similar) is that there's a little gear to turn the flywheel, moved into and out of position by a solenoid, and the solenoid is now basically shot, meaning that the little gear is not withdrawing fully from contact with the flywheel when its done and is actually grinding, hence the flatulent-goose noise. Swapping out the starter is the fix.
  • bobflbobfl Posts: 19
    Recently I got a missfire code on my 2000 I30 so I took it to the dealer. Imagine my surprise when they told me it was caused by a defective coil and they had no way to tell which one so they must replace them all at a cost of $1100. I took the car back right away to a local mechanic. He replaced all the spark plugs (73,000 miles) and it has been running fine ever since. I have been thinking of getting a new G35 but after that little fiasco I think I will go see Toyota. This was my fourth and quite likely last Infiniti. Last year another Infiniti dealer wanted $495 to put rear brake pads on it.If they can't make a decent living giving honest value they should give it up!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    That does seem rather stiff. At the one dealership here in the Big Breezy, I paid just over $150 for new front brakes in February; I had the back brakes redone *and* the rotors turned last fall for less than $300. (2000 I30, currently 95,400 miles.)
  • I have been to the local Infinity dealership and passed on getting my repairs there when possible. My local dealership charges $110.00 an hr. for labor as well as top dollar for parts. You dont have many options here. Myself, I have found them unreliable and not very good at anything but "swapping out parts" when doing repairs. I have a trusty mechanic and have him do all my work. I buy any parts from online retailers OME (original manufacturer equipment) or from Infiniti when I have no other choice (which is rare) and have my mechanic install them. I have saved quite a bundle this way. Just a note. Infinity is considered more and more a luxury brand and hence you will pay "luxury money" to maintain your vehicle. Good luck with your ride :)
  • I've been hearing a screeching noise (slight but annoying) which is getting worst. It sounds exactly like the sound made by a car which is having power steering problems. It isnt to the point where the sound is overwhelming but its definitely audible. Im wondering if this is the power steering pump. I hear the sound as I drive and the sound sometimes doesnt come at all but is showing up more regularly now. Any ideas anyone? and is this a job possibly for a Do-it-yourself guy?
  • dviganodvigano Posts: 3
    I can't stand having someone working on my vehicles! I finally broke down last year when the speedometer in my I30 stopped working. They charged me $180 to replace the "Speed Sensor" (a $25 part) that I had already replaced only 3 months prior. Needless to say, I didn't return when it still wasn't working properly. Thanks anyway, I'll take care of my own vehicles!
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    I've got a 2001 I30 for 2.5 years now. It has 90K miles on it and there are no drive threatening problems yet though I have the O2 sensor related 'SES light' on for the past year. I changed the ingress sensor (the one that affects mileage) but left my egress sensors in failed state as my trusty mechanic said not to worry about them if I didn't want to fork out $600.

    The problem I have is intermittent but annoying never-the-less. On days when it is over 70F and the engine is restarted before it cools down, the engine makes a 'rattling chain' kind of noise when I accelerate between 30-45 mph. It's like a lose chain that is getting ready to come out of the pulley! It doesn't happen everytime (especially when the mechanic is checking it out) and my tranny works just fine (shifts okay). He said it could be very time consuming to find out but suggested premium fuel. That didn't make a difference as it was not an engine knocking sound. I can't imagine it being the timing chain? Anybody having a similar issue? The car has been running fine with that noise for 2 years but I cringe when I hear the sound as it should not be happening to a glorified Nissan. Thanks and great job over here...
  • do you still hear the sound if you push your gas on neutral? or only when your car is moving and your pushing on the gas?
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    I haven't tried revving it on idle to see if the noise comes. I understand why you are asking now. I'll get back after checking it out. Thanks.
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    OK, I had to wait a couple of days to hear that sound again. When I heard it, I pulled over and put the car in neutral and revved it. It hummed beautifully. But when I put it back on drive and pressed on the gas, the noise came back at 35 mph. Does that mean that it is not the engine or drive belts but something else? refugee, I appreciate your time...
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    and yes, it happens only while accelerating, and that too from 30-45 mph. No noise while coasting or accelerating at higher speeds. And it happens only once in a few days when the outside temperature is above 70F. No sound in winter!
  • mlhartmlhart Posts: 2
    Hi Karen15

    I am on this fourm to find help for my problem on my 96 infiti, your problem seems to be the closest what I am having. My car leaves me stranded. I can start the car then go some where and get back in it and then it doesnt not start(dead with lights in dash board on only) I have to leave it there about 2 hrs. then it starts, if its any sooner trying to start it forget it. I dont know if it is the starter? wiring? I wanted to see if you can tell me what migh be wrong with yours? this is so werid to fix I mean I can get in the car start it like 2 times turning it on and off and the third time wont start as if I am tripping something to make it not turn on. Any HELP would be appricated.

    Thank you!

    Michelle
  • i have the same sound. Colder it is, the less noise there is. If i gas in neutral/park there's no noise or if i gas up fast no noise again. It seems like it only comes out at around 2000rpm when in 2nd gear or higher. I'm not sure if its the MAF (Mass air flow) sensor or something else but i'm pretty sure its the MAF. Let me know if you figure it out.
  • mlhart,
    maybe its your ignition coils or spark plugs
  • mlhartmlhart Posts: 2
    I think we just found the problem??, after reading everything on here and hearing the replys back, I went out to the car and turn the key on and off two times and sure enough, it did nothing on the 3rd try, I wanted to make the problem happen so I can see if that was the problem,(ignition) I put the key in and turned it with a little pressure and pulling upward at the same time, wella!! its turn over it STARTED!!, so its my ignition switch is bad. So we are fixing that now and If that is it then anyone out there with the same problem has me (and I seen a few of you online) Were you start your car one time and and tried for the 2nd or third time and nothing? And be stranded for hrs. at the doctors office or the store or even at your sons behind the wheel test day.(grrrr) Then you might be having the ingnition trouble I have mention.. I didnt want to spend money on a starter and other expensive things. I thought I would try the less exspensive way first.... and thank you refugeecamp for your input. this was the best thing for anyone to go on to for any of your car problems. I know I saved $$$$ doing it this way.

    " )
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    Ah, so I am not alone. Is the sound like a rattling/lose chain noise? I was always attributing the noise to a moving part for that reason. Isn't the MAF to contro1 the airflow into the cylinders? Why would it cause a high pitch noise? My gas mileage is great (for a 3L V6) even with the annoying SES light. 21-22mpg mixed driving. So, I am not messing around with O2 sensors (or any other sensor) that cost an arm and a leg yet. You seem to be more of an auto expert than me. Did you investigate the cause of that sound with a mechanic or just ignored it since the car is running fine? I always have the fear that some belt is going to snap if I press the gas heard with that sound. Apart from the SES light and that sound, the car is awesome and I want to try and keep it for another 5-7 years before I am done with it (only 90K miles right now). I love its front profile (with chrome grill), dashboard controls (with analog clock) and interior room. I wish it would hold up to its poorer brethren (Maxima) when I press on the gas but I guess the extra 'luxury weight' has to show somewhere...
  • finballfinball Posts: 5
    Hello,
    I'm the owner of a 2000 I30 and have been trying to get information on changing the rear ignition coils for months now with no success. Does anyone have any information on how to do this? The front are fairly simple but I can't even find the others...any help would be appreciated.
    Thx.
    finball
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You could also post in the Got A Quick, Technical Question? discussion. It is not make/model specific, but a number of knowledgeable people hang out there. Someone may have suggestions for you.

    Good luck.
  • the front ones are L shaped, the rear ones are straight and go in at a 45 degree angle. Check from the side of your engine, you will see them pushed a bit further into the engine (not sticking out as easily as the front ones). Use a magnetic pole to fish out the screw when unscrewing the rear coils cause its too hard to fit the hand down there and most likely your screw will fall when u take it out. You don't have to remove any panels, u can see the coils.
  • My friend drove my car with the SES tester in the car and noticed that the MAF sensor has bad readings. I'm pretty sure the pining noise comes when the airflow isn't going into the engine properly, or else the noise would happen all the time, not just as gassing up. MAF sensor and ignition coils are the main problems of the 2000 i30 so i'm not surprised. Your car's performance decreases too when your MAF is not running correctly.
  • daniel25daniel25 Posts: 4
    Hi. I have an 2000 I30 with 100K miles. For the past several months, every morning I start the car and back out of my parking space with no issues. However, when I put the car into drive and step on the gas often times nothing happens initially. Then a few seconds later the car will surge forward. The engine continues to surge/not respond when I press on the gas for the first 30 seconds of driving. Quite scary in traffic! I also have the "pinging" issue that other have (maybe the engine surging and pinging issues are related?). It usually happens going up hill @ 30-50mph. Recently, the check engine light has come on -- code p1071 (bank one lean). The majority of people on different forums seem to agree that this is a MAF problem. I had all 6 ignition coils an an O2 sensor (not sure which one) replaced last year....

    I'm ordering a new MAF today and plan to replace it myself. I've heard conflicting information about whether or not the ECM needs to be updated after the MAF replacement. Does anyone know whether I need to update the ECM after the MAF replacement? I'd hate to spend 200 on a MAF and for it not to fix the problem...

    Any help would be great! Thanks.
  • Hey Bud. You seem to be having the same problem I was having. The dealership actually tried to tell me that my transmission was shot (I30-T, 67K Miles). It was giving them an internal error code and the great acceleration my I30 had was gone. It would rev and lag then it would accelerate. High passing was a freaking nightmare! Anyway, I changed a few coils and also THOUGHT of changing some O2 sensors (lean error code also) but the car ran no differently when I unplugged a number of different O2 sensor. Frustrated I took it took a transmission specialist who told me frankly that he believed the car was just starved for air and was too new for a faulty tranny. He was running out of ideas on how to fix the problem when he called a buddy of his who had an I30. They brought over the other car, switched out the MAF sensors and presto!!! Car is running like a dream. Hope it helps.
  • daniel25daniel25 Posts: 4
    Crossing my fingers that you're right. The MAF comes in tomorrow. Will keep you posted.

    Anyone else have an issue with REALLY squeaky breaks? Went to Midas today and said that they couldn't find anything wrong with my breaks (pads seemed fine), but that they'd be happy to do a full break job if I really wanted to get rid of the squeak. Anyone have any luck with putting aftermarket ceramic break pads on?
  • Just another word I wanted to mention. I dont know how true this is but the dealership actually complained to me that I was using excessive aftermarket parts on my car and would likely have much trouble down the road. One of these parts was an after-market air filter. Service tech told me that non-nissan air filters usually have an oily film that destryoys the MAF sensor. Dont know how true this is but I changed out my old filter for a stock factory filter right after my MAF replacement as a precaution. I use aftermarket alot cause my dealership's fees are just TOO STEEP to keep me coming back. Only do on that rare occasion I cant get an answer to a problem.
  • mck76mck76 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 I30 the car was towed and ever since then the air bag light has been on. I asked at the dealer if there is any relation and they said no that most likely it is a faulty air bag module the cost of replacing this is about $900 according to them. However, they said that infiniti will cover the part but only to a mileage of 75,000 my car has 98000 on it right now. Any one out there have any advice or face the same issue.
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    Refugee, I suppose you didn't change your MAF sensor? If you do, let me know if that fixed your problem. The performance of the car is great and so is the gas mileage (21/22 mixed) despite the SES light. I started using 89 octane fuel with 10% ethanol recently and it works great. It's the price of 87 octane regular but gives better performance, gas mileage and cleans your engine to boot. I couldn't tell any difference between 91 and 89 octane though there was a significance difference between 89 and 87. I'd say don't bother changing the rear O2 sensors unless required by law (or you are selling the car). It's just a waste of $700 otherwise. But do change the front ones if they are faulty as they will reduce gas mileage significantly.

    Daniel, please let us know whether the MAF sensor fixed your noise issues. My ignition coils are probably okay for now as I don't detect any anomalies (yet) after 3 years (touch wood)...
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