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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Owners

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    not the rear quarter windows?
  • Anybody put a remote starter on their Silverado? I have a 2000 Ext, Z71 and getting kinda lazy about the cold.

    Rob
  • I purchased a 1500 LT series ext. cab dk tinted windows, auto, 2wd, fully loaded w/no leather.
    Dk Maroon w/gold trim.
    Love it, so far no problems bought it in may, have 7152 miles.

    Gas Mlg around 20mpg better than my 2002 TrailBlazer.
  • Looking for information about a factory 1-1/2" adjustment kit my dealer says exists to level the front end on a 2002 Z71, but won't give me the part number for it. Anyone know what is included in the kit? I would like to know what I'm paying for.
  • mpalombompalombo Posts: 186
    Mark,


    I'm not sure if this is the same thing the dealer is talking about but here is a link to a leveling kit.


    http://www.hill4wheeldrive.com/cgi-bin/products.cgi?category=category01&item=5479418692


    If the link doesn't work then just go to www.hill4wheeldrive.com and look for the 2.5 inch front leveling kit for Sierra/Silverado.


    The web page says it is for 99-01 but I'm sure it will work on the '02 also, you should just call them to verify that.


    The cost is 149.00 + shipping, what is the dealer charging?


    -Mark

  • seaboseabo Posts: 3
    Hello out there! Please check out my homepage@ hometown.aol.com/seabo/myhomepage/auto.html
    GM could do this to you too! Too unbelievable if I didn't have to experience this nightmare first hand...Debbi
  • mazdamarlamazdamarla Posts: 350
    Hi everyone - I usually hang out on the Mazda6 board (as you can prolly tell from my name), but my husband owns a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 pickup (not the Z71 version). And since Edmunds has such good advice from other owners, I thought I'd post here.

    Last night he was driving home - about a 40-minute drive - and a "SERVICE 4WD" light was lit the entire time. He did not have 4WD in gear at the time. This is the first time it's happened. In the 4 years he's owned this truck (he got it new in April of '99), he's not had to use 4WD very often - only a few times when we had a lot of snow, etc. (we're in Michigan).

    Any ideas, before he takes it in to the dealer?

    Thanks!
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Have you tried adjusting the torsion (sp) bar? did it to my 01 1500 LT and leveled off the front end quit nicely. very simple to do too. want to get it alinged after you do it thought, but cheaper than that kit.
       Tom
  • butch23butch23 Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Z71 with 47000 miles. The rear spring bushings have started "groaning". I have tried everything from WD 40 to rubber lubricant that I bought from my dealer. The rubber lube worked the best but for only about a week. I'm getting tired of crawling under my truck every week to stop the noise. Does anyone have any suggestions? Are there any service bulletins that are out there?

    Butch
  • balichbalich Posts: 62
    Go to this website to get ALL car/truck bulletins
    for all vehicles .. pretty slick site .. I saw
    bulletins for stuff I experience .. never knew
    others seen these problems also ..

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    but is there ANYONE else out there with the ZX3 ride control option on their truck. From posting on other boards no one has said anything. Is it THAT rare that very few people have it or what???
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    glad people read this
  • 4x4 2DR to a semi that crumpled body and frame, need advice on how to find another one in similar mechanical, interior and exterior condition (mine was near perfect in all areas), tow package, full skid plates, low miles of course. Have looked at all of the online used vehicle locators, no luck so far, dealers are no help. Anyone out there have any ideas about how to find a replacement? Are there people/companies who specialize in specific make/model older vehicles? Will avoid anything ever registered in California or repainted.
  • I just today took my brand new 2003 "Clunkrolet" Silverado with 7000 miles on it in to the dealer for the second time for the infamous clunking problem. The first time they used the "magical special grease" which lasted about a week before the clunking returned. The standard response is it's "operating to the manufacturers specs, they all do that and it's normal." Normal my a$$. Fords and Dodges don't go clunking around the roads like my Silverado does. It's an obvious engineering problem. I read where one fix was a nickel plated slip yoke and I mentioned that to the service guy today and he said the 03's already had those on them. Well, then that wasn't a fix was it? I also read where they were replacing the drive shafts. Anyway, one way or another, I want the problem resolved. I'm waiting on the dealers call as I write this to see what they are going to say. I suspect I already know their response. Someone mentioned lemon law. That might be a start. Or maybe a complaint with the Feds. I know for sure I will be calling GM's complaint line.
    We have been a GM family for 30 plus years. My wife drives a 2003 Buick. But I swear that after paying $32,000 for a vehicle with such a glaring problem and getting an "it's normal" excuse from GM I will sell the "clunker" and go with the 2004 Ford truck.
    GM's Service Bulletin states:
    "While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance."
    They're damn right, I FIND IT "OBJECTIONABLE".

    My advise to someone thinking about a Chevy/GMC truck is to think again.
  • Got a '03 Silverado ..have 2 question about the vents and AC ...

    1. I noticed if I got the blower on 'VENTS only' and have the setting on 0 (ie OFF) .. I still get air blowing out of the vents .. is this a problem?
    (I would think with setting to 0 the vents would
    be closed and no air coming out of the vents)

    2. Also if I *do not* have the AC turned on and have the blower on "vents only" and have the "air circulated in car only" ... the air coming out of the vents is AC air even though the AC is not turned on ... is this a problem ?
    (I would think with the AC turned OFF .. the air
    coming out of the vents would be outside air - Not AC air)

    Is this normal ? Do you folks get same results ?
  • I have a 99 Silverado 1500 LS, time to upgrade the stereo. Has anyone done speaker swap outs in these trucks and if so, was it hard? I have experience with stereos, but mainly in imports, trying to save money where i can but not sure if its worth it. Thanks
  • Yes, that is normal. Or at least the same thing happens in the '02 Avalanche.
  • Hello.
    After several years of getting around by motorcycle and bus, I finally bought a 2003 Silverado LT Ext. Cab w/ a 5.3 V8 engine and the Z71 package--and love it! It's a great ride, smooth and has plenty of room on the inside for a child's seat and other "toys."

    My questions are:
    1. Are the two skid plates they put on the bottom of the truck enough? I thought they would put a skid plate to cover both the gas tank and the muffler, but I didn't see one.

    2.What kind of liner should I purchase? Should I get a spray on or the GM plastic liner?

    3. What about a top? Any recommendations for a cover?

    Thanks,
    Bosscat
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Most Japanese 4X4 compact pickups and many Japanese 4X4 SUVs have standard skid plates installed under the front diferential, transfer case, and the gas tank. Never seen a skid plate installed under the muffler, because this is not a very expensive or critical component to protect, and usually is tucked into the frame far enough not to be easily damaged. I owned a Dodge Raider SUV (Mitsubishi Montero clone) and it had a small skid plate even under the fuel filter which was under the vehicle. US manufacturers make skid plates optional on most 4X4 vehicles and rarely include the fuel tank skid plate, which in my opinion is by far the most important one from the safety standpoint.

    My recommendations for the bedliner: I would stay away from plastic bedliners because they will scuff your paint and eventually rub it completely off in places and rust spots will develop. If you do not carry loose gravel, sand or sharp objects in your truck bed, then heavy duty rubber mat on the bottom of the bed, with a plastic bedliner tailgate piece works great(you can buy the tailgate piece separately and they also sell matching rubber mat tailgate protectors). I have used this combination in my trucks for years. The mat prevents objects in the bed from sliding around. Plastic bedliners will not prevent that. If you must use a plastic bedliner, they sell something called a "paint saver mat" for about $ 20. This is a thin mat that goes under the bedliner to protect the paint from scuffing. For the tailgate piece and for over the rail bedliners, always use foam tape on top of the bed rails and top of your tailgate. Yes, even bolted on tailgate bedliner piece moves around and will scuff your paint on top of the tailgate in time.

    Bed cover/camper shell recommendation: Too many choices here. I personally prefer fiberglass camper shells over aluminum or plastic ones.
  • I have a 99 Silverado, step-side bed. The bed has black plastic pieces that run along the sides along the top of it. They overlap both into the bed and then outside the bed as well. They dont look too bad but I have noticed similar trucks without them. Can I take them off and if so, is it hard to do so? Also, since there are no marks or anything on them to indicate otherwise, will the paint look like a normal truck underneath?
  • Replace bushings with neoprene rubber bushings if you can find them. This was the usual upgrade for camaros and mustangs
  • What is the clunking noise? Is it coming from the drive shaft, engine or what?
  • One of the vehicles I considering is a 2003 or a 2004 Silverado 1500 ls with a 4.8 v8 and a 5 spd tranny. I will be using it to move 15k miles away, then as a daily driver? Will this truck hold up or can I expect a lot of problems? Please let me know any opinions.
     Thanks, Michael
  • I had a '99 1500 Z71 Ext Cab with this problem. It ended up being a problem with the switch for the auto transfer case. Fixed the problem under warranty. Just traded up for a 2004 Z71 Ext Cab.
  • arttartt Posts: 14
    There are two types of rear end clunk, read this TSB.
    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    Important
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
     Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
     While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • I have a '00 1500 4wd with the clunk also. I too have been to the dealer. I learned to live with it. They fixed it for about a month. There own TSB's point the finger at shoddy engineering:

    "Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have."

    So in other words, there is too much lash in all of their gears. If the above was a certainty, then EVERY SINGLE vehicle would make this clunk!

    Which is why I personally don't believe it's lash, unless they manufactured only Silverados with excessive lash.

    The clunk on mine comes from the rear of the truck. I think it's the ring and pinion, but who knows?

     "Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction."

    Again, the above paragraph points the finger at shoddy engineering tolerances.
  • Anyone know how to re-set the "Service Engine Soon" light on my 1998 Silverado? (I service the truck regularly)
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 612
    SES light means there is trouble in your emissions system. Probably something little, could be a loose gas cap. Truck detects a fuel (vapor) leak, light pops on. SES is not the same as 'Oil Change' Check your owners manual to reset oil change light. I think it is 'turn key on to accessory, press brake pedal several times'. May be different on yours.
  • mbear69 you traded your 99 silverado for a 2004. i have a 2004 silverado ext. cab short bed z71 with the 5.3L and auto trans. Did you notice any power difference between the two, low end or top end power?
  • Does anyone have a clue as to when the Rado's mug is going to change? I am ready to buy, but I just can't find the attraction with the current face. I'm one of those "or you don't" clientele. Please give me a clue before I jump ship on something else. Tanks in advance.
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