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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Owners



  • thinking of switching out my regular 05 silverado 1500 z71 cluster for a ss silverado cluster, anything i need to do first other than have the miles put on it?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    nope...well maybe double check the pins to make sure they match.
  • thank you obyone...sure appreciate it!
  • dcatesdcates Posts: 1
    I NEED HELP! I have gone through all the proper channels to try to get the problem with the front suspension and the AC gurgle fixed on my 2005 Crew cab. I filed with the BBB and they sent an expert..... ha ha.. to test drive it. The kid could not find the office with directions, an address and a GPS. Then he calls several times trying to find me. He got there at Noon. Our town at noon is traffic gridlock. He drove it 16 miles down a freshly paved road and came back with a report that he did not notice any problem. And oddly enough his report used very simular wording as GM. I have been driving longer than he has been alive. He had no idea what Kinetic or dynamic harmonics was. So now I have to go to arbitration against GM Lawyers and they are going to use this report to tell me that I am imagining this problem. I need anyone that has had this trouble to reply.... please.. I know it is not normal for a 1/2 ton truck to ride like this. I know I am not the only one that can hear the AC gurgle. I have been pushed aside, Right are wrong you do not question the big spenders. I seem to be the only one here willing to stand for what I know is right. I have heard from others but they will not file.
  • kcarter3kcarter3 Posts: 16
    Does anyone have photots of a larger size tire on your Silverado 2004 z71? I am trying to determine a better looking tire size.
  • :sick:
    My silverado is just out of warranty. It rained all day on it yesterday, now it won't start!
    I have the hood opened trying to dry it out.

    Any suggestions???? :confuse: :sick: ">
  • k5qmk5qm Posts: 7
    You can't get to the CEO. I have a problem with my 2005 and was told to live with it by the CEO's secretary (Ms Johnson). I sent a certified complaint letter to the CEO and some dud in the mail room signed for it and Ms Johnson replied to it and told me if I wasn't happy with their help I could sue. GENERAL MOTORS COULDN'T CARE LESS ABOUT THEIR CUSTOMERS.
  • Page 3-64 regarding the Driver Info Center (DIC) in the manual states:
    Display Language
    To select your personalization for display language,
    press the select button while DISPLAY LANGUAGE is
    displayed on the DIC. Pressing the select button
    will scroll through the following languages:
    • English
    • French
    • Spanish
    Choose one of the three options and press the
    personalization button while it is displayed on the DIC to
    select it.
    If you accidentally choose a language that you don’t
    want or understand, press and hold the personalization
    button and the trip information button at the same
    time. The DIC will begin scrolling through the languages
    in their particular language. English will be in English,
    French will be in French and so on. When you see
    the language that you would like, release both buttons.
    The DIC will then display the information in the
    language you chose.
    You can also scroll through the different languages by
    pressing and holding the trip reset stem for four
    seconds, as long as you are in the odometer mode.

    Does this help?
  • What exactly are your problems? The dealerships make money when they can perform repairs. It is unusual for someone to "refuse to repair" a problem that is making the vehicle not run or drive or such. Please describe the problems, and what has been diagnosed?
  • The sound from the AC can be an issue for some folks. Please bear in mind that the factory could certainly add more insulation or heavier materials, but this adds to the price and the weight, which are prime considerations. It is hard to make a vehicle be all things - sometimes, certain compromises must be made.
  • I see from another post you dislike the sound from the AC - this can simply be explained as a result of a need to make the vehicle lighter and less expensive. The sound may be there, it is true. The suspension - perhaps softer shocks might help you, have you tried that possibly? Good luck. The company does want customers, I am sure of that. Not a GM employee, but any company does try i am sure. Did you notice any of this during the test drive, or is this all a new thing?
  • I have a persistent problem that maybe someone can help me with (local dealer was not able to troubleshoot). I have had problems with voltage variation on my Z71. In the morning when the battery is a bit drained from the start - I run at 15-16 volts for 20-30 minutes. After it warms up it will settle down to 14-15. However - I will get a periodic swing up to 19 volts, which brightens the lights and shuts down the air bag circuit (based on the air bag light coming on) and also tends to boil my battery. This will last for 30 seconds or so. Then it will swing back.

    I have not been able to tie it to any specific thing (A/C, lights, etc.). The only RELIABLE way to stop it from doing it is to gas the engine hard, that arrests the symptom for the moment, and voltage returns to normal. I have tried checking wires, etc. I am on my third alternator/voltage regulator on advice from shops. During the first two changes, it did not happen for 3 months after the new one was installed, and then it starts again. On this one (a new one NOT a rebuild) it began right away.

    Could this be a broken down ground wire? So by revving the engine I am increasing the potential and jumping some small breakage in the wire? Visible inspection does not show any broken wires, etc. Has anyone else seen this - or do you have any good ideas on troubleshooting I could do. I would greatly appreciate any insights. Thanks!!
  • I am thinking about buying a chevy truck and did some GM warranty pricing (over the phone, following some internet research) and if the preliminary info I have gathered is correct, the offer GM sends owners in the mail shortly before the original warranty is set to expire is at least $250.00 more than some dealers are willing to charge. Armed with that info I called a dealer local to me who finally told me that there is a $500.00 markup on the GM warranty. When I made a hypothetical offer of $400.00 under the "list" price he quoted he seemed receptive. The quoted "list" price was $2,750.00; if he is willing to take $2,350.00 then that is only a 15% savings. If the list price he quoted is accurate, that would leave him with a $100.00 profit. I think there should be dealers out there willing to a little better but finding them is time consuming. As an example, there is a Toyota dealership in Northwest Massachusetts that will undercut other dealerships by about 1/3 (on the 7 year / 100,000 mile warranty I priced when I was looking at Tacomas, the "selling" dealer would have charged me approximately $1,500 for a Warranty that the N.W. Mass dealer would have charged me appxly $900 for. I priced a Subaru warranty for a Baja and found one dealer willing to charge me only $1,995 for a warranty the selling dealer wanted $2,460 for. I'd be interested to know if you have done any GM research / pricing since you posted your question on 7/11/05, it might save me some time and aggravation for me. Again, I can't believe that the dealer markup is that much smaller than Toyota or Subaru and / or that there is some dynamic in place that somehow prevents or prohibits dealers from competing against each other on price. This doesn't even begin to address how comparatively expensive GM warranties are since the Subaru warranty, as an example, was for 7 year / 100,000 mile but the GM warranty is only for a 6 year / 80,000 warranty. I'd be interested in feedback from anyone on the accuracy and completeness of the GM warranty info described above.
    Thanks, ~CathMac
  • if you have original wires i would start there. mine wouln't start after rain or if there was just a heavy dew. changed the plug wires and problem solved.
  • The suspension on the truck. The AC cavitations noise which also means the corrosion of the tubing material. Then the "soft brakes”.
    The jolting problem was mentioned to the dealer before it was purchased. The dealer said it probably was a bad shock or unbalanced tire and it would be fixed under GM warranty. They said they would fix it when the tags came in. The AC noise and the brakes were noticed after the sale. When the Tags came in and the truck was taken to the dealer by my wife, she was told that the jolting was a problem with the crew cab trucks and they had already tried to fix two others and GM said it was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the AC was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the brakes were ok. After filing with the BBB, GM and the dealer said they would try new tires. That helped very little. GM also showed a service bulletin from Dec. of 2004 addressing the jolting. They called it "beaming" "vibration". They said if you put 500 pounds in the bed just behind the wheel well it will reduce the "beaming". So you loose half your payload and (with gas prices) you carry a load around all the time or jolt. When the service manager was asked about the AC noise he said "what’s a little noise, the engine makes noise and that is normal". Peltier Chevrolet knew about the "beaming". GM said it was normal and sorry but your case is closed. I have to agree with an earlier post. GM DOES NOT CARE ABOUT THE CUSTOMER ONCE THEY HAVE YOUR MONEY.
    I did drive another 2005 truck just like mine (business rental; 600 miles) and it was worse on the jolting, about the same on the AC noise and the brakes were what I would call normal. I would like to remind GM, The Ford Pinto gas tank problem was presented as “NORMAL” until a fireman in Corpus Christy, Texas watched his daughter burn up in one. The GM design is flawed on the suspension and on the AC cavitation noise. The noise means some day the tubing is going to fail and the truck is going to be flooded with a cloud of gas. JUST FIX IT now before someone gets hurt!! :lemon:
  • Or they could engineer it right. I suspect this noise is from the restriction orifice that causes pressure deviation which facilitates the cooling process. The up line and down line distance to diameter ratio, if not adhered to will cause turbulence in the line.... "cavitation" the cavitation is extra "hammering" on the tubing walls and causes pitting. The pitting is corrosion which leads to leaks and failure. If you have ever been in a car when the cooling line failed you would remember it. A white cloud fills the car and breathing is difficult. That was with freon, I have no idea what this new stuff will do.... if anything. Usually the restriction orifice is at the firewall and what little sound there is outside the cab.
    I have a 2005 Ascender (made by GM) and it does not have this noise, the 2005 Tahoe does not have this noise. ?
  • I have a 4x4 2005 WT - the voltage swing is not as wide (so far!), but this is what it did just before it dropped dead on a remote Kentucky parkway - the first dealership replaced the ignition coil and the ignition module; same thing happened again next day and the second dealership replaced the wiring harness to these - said the excess voltage had burned spots in it. (hey, I'm so old, I remember when you changed out EVERYTHING electrical when a starter or solenoid went out...) this was very subtle - the only warnings were "bumps" like a wind "slam" or a bump in the road - a few of those and then no ignition. does anyone know whether those two "drop dead" stops at 65 mph did a number on my manual transmission?? sure was a loud noise. I have had this engine (4.3) and tranny (5 speed) combo twice before with no problems. (truck is 80 days old, has 6500 highway miles on it...) voltage meter remained at 14.5 for several days after repairs and is now swinging again...- Susan
  • fiveofiveo Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 crew cab 1500 silverado. On occasions, it can happen after the truck sits in my drive way for a day or two without starting or driving for 30 miles and stopping for 30 minutes but what it does is the power goes out. I turn the key and sometimes it sound like the battery is dead. No lights, nothing. I wait a few seconds and the power comes back on, sometimes it starts right away others times it takes longer. Is this a defect? Please help
  • I have recently started hearing a water sloshing noise in the passenger side of the dash of my 98 Z71 ext. cab any ideas what this might be?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Voltage is controlled by the alternator voltage regulator. Seems to me that you have a defective regulator inside the alternator. Have them replace the voltage regulator, or the whole alternator assembly ASAP!
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