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Jeep Liberty: Problems & Solutions

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  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    Normally there is a vent connected between the valve cover and the intake manifold. If this hose is clogged or pinched there will be condensation left near the oil filler cap.
  • Hi, I was wondering if anyone has had problems with their interior doom lights staying on. We took it to the dealer and they said it was caused from the hitch we installed, so they disconnected the hitch,but the lights still didn't go out like they should. I know they're supposed to stay on for a minute or so, but they stay on through the whole time we're in the vehicle. Can anyone offer suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks!
  • I get the same hesitation between 1st and 2nd (in automatic). It's very uncomfortable because it's unpredictable. I also get very uneven downshifting when decellerating from 45 to 15-20. Anyone have this issue?

    I also saw that other people's dealers said the clicking sound when put into gear is normal. Some do, some don't. What's the lowdown?

    I'm terribly concerned about my 02. I'm about 30 days from warranty end.
  • my husband just bought a 2003 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4...... The day after we got it we started hearing a chirping noise sounds like it is coming from the front. It only chirps if you are going down the road or are sitting still with it in drive. If you put it in reverse or neutral the chirping stops. Any one have an idea of what it could be?

    Thanks
  • wmcmahanwmcmahan Posts: 1
    I bought a 2004 red Jeep Liberty in January, 2005. I really like it sizewise. It's 2 feet shorter than the 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I traded for it and fits nicely in my garage. After I bought it, I noticed that it was getting 14 miles per gallon highway. I took it back to the dealer and they suggested that I change the sparkplugs, at my expense, because the vehicle had 30,000 miles on it. I did so and ran the tank from full to empty, getting this time 15 miles per gallon highway. It now goes 300 miles on one 19.5 gallon tank. I am disillusioned and about ready to trade it in for another make of compact SUV with better mileage. What I can't understand is why Chrysler would build a compact design that underperforms the mileage of it's older predecessor, the Grand Cherokee?
  • This is how I found out that the liberty's were all ready set up for towing even if they did not come with a hitch. It was a big slip up on my service tech and I am sure you will not get a tech to tell you this with out side stepping you in one way or the other trust me I have tried over the phone with other dealer's. They just don't want you to know this. As GOD as my witness, this is what he told me, Jeep pre installs all the goodies for towing at the factory, only because it is a bear for the service guy's to install them after the build and not cost effective for the customer to have them installed later, therefore people might just start looking for something else to tow with. I did not have the tow package listed on my sticker when I bought my 04 autotrans v6, I did not have the off road package, I did not have crap on my liberty that would have had any thing to do with towing but it was all there except for a hitch and wiring. Now here is were I messed up, when I bought mine I told them I was going to tow, and boy did the salesman jump at the chance to tell me he would take care of it. Sure did, charged me the tow package price just for a hitch and wiring = twice as much as if I had kept my mouth shut and had it done at U-HAUL myself, but i did not know any better at the time. I just want you all to take a good look at what you have on your Liberty before you make the same mistake and not to get (hood winked) like so many of us already have. If you are thinking of buying new, POP THAT HOOD and take a good look and if you don't know what you are looking for take a friend that does! :confuse:
  • enderender Posts: 3
    Hi I had the same problem with the gauge changing the state for my 2004 Liberty 2.8 CRD. It is solved by the dealer by uploading a special software developed by DC. Your dealer might probably can get the same programming instructions. However I still cannot solve the vibration problem at stop lights and overspeeds (at 135 km/h). Any input will be appreciated. - Ender
  • enderender Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 Liberty CRD (2.8) with automatic transmission at 12000 kms now.
    It starts vibrations and resonance at 135km/hour (around 2300 rpm) while pushing the gas pedal and it disappears at 150 km/h.
    The following didn't work:
    - Balancing and aligning tires
    - Changing tires
    - Checking shafts (I dont know how?)
    - Changing the shaft ring
    Any ideas why?
    Ender
  • anza1anza1 Posts: 8
    Hi All!
    Anyone have any experience with the "TPM" system? I had a flat and the system acted properly and even reset after 2 minutes as it should, but indicated low pressure on the spare (as it should, since it was flat!). But after putting a new tire on that rim, the TPM still says "Spare Low Pressure" after driving many miles. I don't think it should matter that the original spare is now my left front tire, since all 5 are supposed to have sensors. Any other thoughts out there?
    Thanks!!
  • russellsrussells Posts: 2
    My wife's 2003 liberty's dash has major problems, when driving it the other day all the warning lights came on and it started to buzz. then the dash lights went out and the speedo quit along with the tach and fuel gauge and temp gauge. The dealer said it need a complete dash cluster but after searching this site it seems that the problem might be with the speed sensors or the computer. has anyone had this problem please advise as the dash cluster is $507 plus labor
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    Hello Anza1,
    First kit I found was Rocky Road. I used OTT front and spacers rear. Later I changed to strut spacers front. Rustyś full suspension kit came much later.

    I have Rusty, because it is the highest full suspension kit I have found.
    I like its soft (better then factory) ride and when you go faster, upper front bumpstops do their job. Using OTT lift or strut spacers upper A arms cannot reach bumpstops - you go hard and overstress the ball joints in their limits = problems with them.

    You asked tires too. I´m using 245/70 R16, with very little rubbing in end positin of steering (normal is 235/70 R16). I can conceive 265/70 R16 with more rubbing, but acceptable. Greater tires would probably cause problems.
    I have BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A and I would buy them again. VERY good allrounder.
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    I had the same problem, by 30 000 miles the rear universal joint had to be replaced - it was out of lubricant. It caused vibrations in any speed while releasing the gas pedal. After change of joint I had vibrations in the same interval as you have. I bought pair of another joints and changed them, now its nearly OK.

    Interesting is too, with dismounted rear shaft there was strong vibration coming from the front by about 90 km/h. (I don´t have permanent AWD)

    Inspect the cardan joints, maybe you will find somebody who can ballance the rear shaft.
  • anza1anza1 Posts: 8
    Hey Renegader!
    Thanks, great info. I think that's the conclusion i came to, so thank you for the post - I think that helps me make up my mind. I'm still trying to find out if the lift and bigger tires impact the warranty at all. Some people say it could and other say a 2.5" lift is OK. Any thoughts? I'm still waiting to hear back from Chrysler, my dealer didn't know...
  • hatcherhatcher Posts: 1
    hi, i am having an awful problem with my 02 liberty limited. Out of the blue it is slipping gears. I accelerate past 2nd and it slips into neutral. I had to drop the automatic down into 2nd and drie it home. Has anyone had this type of problem or know what might be wrong. Dealership wants over $500 just to tell me what's going on!!!! :cry:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    Have you tried checking for vibrations running the engine at 2300 rpm in all gears?
  • rdsx05rdsx05 Posts: 2
    I am about to purchase a 2005 Liberty and I found this board, now that I am reading I am a little leary! Are they good vehicles? or Not?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,972
    You are going to find mostly problems posts in a problems discussion, so keep that in mind as you read this board. Check out the "regular" Jeep Liberty discussion for "regular" threads too.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • rdsx05rdsx05 Posts: 2
    But I mean do they had alot of problems? Because I read the consumer report on it it was pretty good, not excellent, but fair and they recommended it.
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    Hallo Anza1,
    my first problem with Liberty: Liberty was quietly lowered. As I became a lowered Liberty, I complaited and looked for some lift kit. I became a letter from importeur which allowed installing of longer shocks and springs: "Using of longer springs and shock absorbers don´t overstress suspension and drive train".
    But my claiming of vibrations after changing of universal joint (see my other post) importer refused because "angles of drive shaft are greater than 3 degrees, which can cause the vibration". Maybe, angles were 4,5 degrees, but before cardan joint change there were no vibrations at all.
    I had and have some problems with Liberty, but more problems did I have with DaimlerChrysler. Maybe they had a lot of claims...

    Im driving lifted Liberty for 2 years and over 30.000 miles. I am confident lifting does not overstress anything on Liberty. And in my warranty book stays, that mounting of aftermarket parts don´t affect the warranty. Maybe you will find such like things in yours...
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    Yes, I did. Vibration occures at AWD in any gear at 2000 rpm . Higher gear = stronger vibrations. But: I have manual tranny and not permanent AWD. Only SelecTrac.

    Ender, do you have vibrations both in 2HI and 4HI? I have strongest vibs in 4HI at 90km/h accelerating.

    Vibs as ender describes (110-150 km/h) are in 2 HI only and are smooth. I suppose rear shaft need better balancing.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    "Higher gear = stronger vibrations" => This seems to be related to effort, typically the transmission.
    I had vibrations increasing with time in cold weather only and the problem came from wear of the engine fan coupling to the serpentine belt. The fan was 'jerking' in the cold air flow and the noise was amplified by the exhaust line. The way to spot this problem is to grab the fan when it's cold and check for play by twisting it on it's shaft. This symptom was only noticeable at 70 mph at the beginning and lately I could even reproduce it in the 'Park' position. It's ok now. :shades:
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    "Higher gear = stronger vibrations => This seems to be related to effort, typically the transmission."

    It vibrates only when Im accelerating in 4WD. In 2WD mode it is soft.

    Front shaft has constant velocity (homokinetic joints). The rear shaft has cardan universal joints. Maybe if both shafts are strongly connected together in 4WD it can cause this "resonance" at higher speeds?.
    But - with dismounted rear shaft - vibrations are even stronger.
    Usually I´m accelerating from 80 to 100km/h in 4.gear, then change to 5. Over 100 are no vibs.

    I have found this same vibration or resonance on another Liberty, 2,5 CRD manual tranny, too. Maybe it is some phenomenon of diesel with manual tranny.

    Would you try on your Lib if there is any difference between 4WD-open diff and 4WD-locked diff at 90 km/h when accelerating?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    I have only used 4WD-locked in deep snow at such speed.
    The transfer case uses a chain and epicycloid gears. This gives a certain 'softness' or 'play' in the transmission, but mine is normal.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    I just found a nice picture of my chain driven transfer case:
    - The engine connects bottom left,
    - The front drive shaft connects bottom right,
    - The rear drive shaft connects on top.
    - The shifting lever should connect where the green plug is on the lever.
    You can also see the two shifting rings that give hi/low and 2or4 wd.
    It's the first time I come across this picture that explains very well why 2wd doesn't shake and 4wd does. The front axis is driven alone by the chain. :cry:

    image
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    "this picture that explains very well why 2wd doesn't shake and 4wd does. The front axis is driven alone by the chain."

    I need more explanation... Why should it vibrate driven by the chain at about 2000 rpm of engine in all gears and strongest at 5th gear?
  • renegaderrenegader Posts: 73
    Today I tried to disconnect rear shaft and rotate it 180° (rear joint). It helped = vibs in2WD are smoother and above 120 km/h. It is 30 minutes job, when you can feel any difference after doing it, you need only ballance the rear shaft.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    On 3-3--05 I got a notice to reflask/reprogram pcm. I took it in that day. I have a 2005 ltd. with lots of goodies. I had complained about 14 to 16 mpg, and told that's was just about normal. That was dismal mpg as far as I was concerned. After the reflash, my milage went to 17.75 to 20 mpg. I do not know what that reflash did, but it helped my mpg. My liberty now has almost 5000 miles on it. I am liking it more, but at first I thought I had made a very serious 60 month mistake. After some driving and findind my arround the jeep, I have learned to like it a lot. I just wish the leather seats were not so darn stiff! A little more foot room for the driver is really needed! It is one tough truck and it seem like either my seat or my butt will adapt. Wow, these 235 65 17 hp tires are outragious in price! I wanted to get a more aggressive tread and found out it was hard to find and high dollar as well.

    I hope this helps about the flashing, because whatever it does, worked real good for me. :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,351
    2000 rpm is when the engine gives it's maximum torque. In low gear to produce a given effort (work) the engine has more time (less speed). In high gear the effort on the engine is often greater which causes the rpm to go down like when going uphill. Add to this the small amount of elasticity due to the chain transmission when you have high loads and you get a Liberty!
  • jnautjnaut Posts: 17
    Yeah, that sounds like a real problem. Any transmission that 'dropping' into neutral definitely has an issue. However, I'm skeptical of the dealer wanting $500 just to tell you what's wrong with it. You might shop around-- your liberty is undoubtedly out of warranty. So go to a good mechanic.
  • jnautjnaut Posts: 17
    rdsx05:

    They're excellent vehicles. You've found a jeep liberty 'problems' board, so most of the posts will be, alas, problems. However, it's a good idea to check out a problems board for ANY vehicle you want, just to get a feel for what CONSISTENT issues seem to come up. Thus far, I can strongly recommend the Jeep Liberty.

    Paul
This discussion has been closed.