Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • drosierdrosier Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Rendezvous that done the same thing . I have checked the battery , all fuses all wiring and starter everything chechs good I still havenot got it started. It will jump at the starter and start and go dead after about 2sec. I need help
  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    Hi Everyone its been sometime since I posted here. My 02 RDV has been working ok over the last three years (since I repaired 25 different items on it prior to 2007). You name it, it has been fixed (some under warranty some not (e.g., Transmission replacement at 90,000 km only 4 years old, faulty planatary gears....GM would not help or offer any help....I got it replaced by a good company using only Moog replacement parts, no probs since and costing less than half what GM quoted). Know I am dealing with general wear and tear. The air compressor seems to be gone (it does not have the pressure (diaphram gone?, all hoses are fine), I checked out the GM world parts web site and they want 600 bucks for it which I find way over priced for a little compressor in my opinion which is no different then a general 12V one you can purchase at Canadian Tire for 20 bucks. Has anyone replaced one as of yet and has anyone investigated installing and adapting a 12V compressor. I am quite handy so I wonder if this is possible.


  • googleyesgoogleyes Posts: 2
    Back in the old days of air shocks we use to run the airlines from the shocks to a tire valve screwed into the back bumper, when you wanted to pump them up you would just use the FREE air from your friendly neighborhood service station. You could probably just remove the compressor and "jumper" it with a short piece of copper pipe, then you could pump air into it through the inflater outlet in the rear cargo area. To retrofit a 12v compressor it would have to be weatherized to sit under the floor pan like the original otherwise to have it in the vehicle you would have to listen to it pound away when it needs to pump up the volume. I have had mine replace twice (luckily under extended warranty) and was pondering what to do the next time it goes, it really is a ticking time bomb. Let us know how you make out.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    edited May 2010
    Couple ideas come to mind.

    Option A - convert auto leveling system into manual system. See post of jpierce. Good "simple & low cost" idea on this method.

    Option B - install 3rd party air compressor (under a passenger seat or in rear side panel) and install off/on manual buttons on the dash area. Or, install manual buttons inside glove box or center console area. Somewhere where items won't accidentally bump into them. Same idea many hot-rod folks install in their muscle cars - for their vehicle's air shocks.

    Option C - Install Timbren SES units. If wondering, I installed Timbren SES unit's in my wife's mani van (that uses coil springs in its rear). If wondering, they replace factory bump stops and are an "install it and leave it" product. For our utility trailer towing needs, Timbrens SES units work great. They can be used in the RDV models as well. re:

    For low cost and seldom need extra rear support, I'd go with option A. If you like "install it and leave it" upgrade, go with option B. And if into adjusting ride comfort for maximum enjoyment (regardless of vehicle loading), I'd go for option B. Then again, it depends on your technical install comfort levels as well..

    Good luck...

  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    Thanks allot for all the advice. The suggestions are great. does sell a replacement unit, however the costs are still hight (500 bucks....etc). There are few options I am considering. 1. My parts supplier is looking into for me, 2. also there is junk yard stuff (used) and the after market stuff cheep compressor from Cnd Tire. I had a look underneath. There appears to be a pump and a small tank. The pump side looks pretty basic I maybe able to remove the old pump and adapt another on the same circuit or repair the existing one.

    I will not really know until I have a closer look underneath. I consider anything possible.

  • googleyesgoogleyes Posts: 2
    Come to think of it, when I last had my compressor changed the dealer mentioned that they thought it might have been a problem in a air solenoid as the unit was pumping up but not releasing the air to lower the back end, they just replaced the whole unit anyway. Perhaps you have a bad or sticky air solenoid that is not closing its valve off completely (maybe dirt or something under the seats).
  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    Thanks for the advice. I will have a look when I look at the compressor more closely. Changing out a solenoid is easier than the compressor.
  • mhardwickmhardwick Posts: 1
    I have replaced all my wheel hub assemblies several times and my AWD and ABS light are still on. The dealer cannot find out the problem either. My latest problem is my power seat and mirror will not work. All fuses seem to be fine both under the dash and hood. Not sure what happened.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,057
    Hello Mhardwick,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Is your vehicle currently at the dealership? What is the VIN number? How many times have you had the vehicle in to be serviced at the dealership for the same concern? Can you please email me with the information? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • kriegsiekriegsie Posts: 5
    The last time I had the ABS light come on it wasn't the wheel hubs. It was the cable to the sensor and it was intermittent. The dealer said there is a fuse in the cable that was the problem. It still cost me $350.00 to fix.
  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    It sounds like corrosion on the wiring to the ABS sensor or wire short. You need to look at the connection to sensor and follow the wire to see if corroded or damaged. This is a very common problem on the RDV. As for the power seat and mirror this sounds like another wire short. Check the wiring under the carpet by the driver seat. Another common problem on RDV (wire fusing and shorting together). RDV are full of germlins (down cycle in the quality curve)


    I am not sure if these are problems, but they were for me. I had the same issues.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,233
    On this vehicle fir the AWD disabled and ABS lights it could very well be an issue with the C305 connector if the dealer hasn't checked it yet also. It is a documented problem.
  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    I have a very creaky front end (when accelerating or braking) and bumping sound (like something is sliding or loose under the car). My mechanic told me it was my brake pucks were floating around due to warn brake guides. Well after 3 years dealing with this creaky sound I replaced my front brakes with new guides, and the sound is still there. The bushings for the large sway bar were replaced a year or so ago and are still good (this did cause a creaky sound but was corrected)

    At one point another mechanic at the shop where I take my car told me it was the steering column and was a common problem on the RDV. He told me a temporary measure was to fill the steering column with oil (200 bucks) and permanent solution was to replace the stirring column (costs several thousand). He told me its not a safety issue just annoying.

    Has anyone come across this problem? And is it the stirring column. I hope its not the rackenpinun stirring (but I do not think so, the car tracks true and does not wonder)

    2002 RDV AWD CXL
  • nlt99nlt99 Posts: 9
    Hi James!

    I had a similar annoying creak when accelerating or stopping. It was very difficult to find the cause (like most noises) but it turned out to be caused by one of the body struts that goes diagonally from the top of each fender well (1 bolt) to the top of the body part that goes over the radiator area (2 bolts). They are black tubes about 1-1/2" diameter that strenthen the front end of the body against torsional twisting. In my case it was the right side one that goes over the battery area and the two front bolts had been partially stripped out so I had to drill and tap for the next larger size. Totally and permanently fixed the problem for me.

    Let me know what you find, and good luck! Nick
  • dnilsondnilson Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Rendezvous . This week the AWD DISABLE light came on and now won't turn off. I'm assuming that the AWD isn't working also. I've read many posts on this problem, from bad wiring to low fluid to bad tires to wheel bearings etc.... and that the dealers have tech notices on it. I don't have the money or time to keep bringing the car in until they figure it out? My wife and I have to work everyday just to pay or bills. I'm not a mechanic either. I don't know what to do? This is my first
    GM and my wife loves it, but this really has me stressed out since we don't have money for repairs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    edited June 2010
    Conditions for Turning On the All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Disable Lamp

    The AWD disable lamp illuminates when one of the following conditions exists for 5 seconds:

    * The PCM/TCM commands the solenoid ON and the voltage feedback remains high, B+.
    * The PCM/TCM commands the solenoid OFF and the voltage feedback remains low, 0 volts. This condition is present for 3 key cycles

    Action Taken When the All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Lamp Illuminates

    * The PCM/TCM does not illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).
    * The PCM/TCM inhibits AWD.
    * The PCM/TCM records the operating conditions when the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met. The PCM/TCM stores this information as Failure Records.
    * The PCM/TCM stores the AWD disable fault in PCM/TCM history.

    Conditions for Clearing the All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Disable Fault

    * A scan tool can clear the fault.
    * The PCM/TCM clears the fault from PCM/TCM history if the vehicle completes 40 warm-up cycles without a non-emission related diagnostic fault occurring.
    * The PCM/TCM cancels the fault default actions when the fault no longer exists.

    ********************************************************************************- - ***************
    Diagnostic Aids

    An ABS DTC may cause the AWD Disabled light to illuminate. Check for ABS DTCs if no AWD fault is present.


  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    Thanks. These struts have been removed several times by myself and mechanics (battery replacement, rad replacement, BCM replacement...etc) I will check them and see. However, I am not holding my breath, the sound sure sounds like it is coming from underneath. I have had all ball joints and tie rods replaced so things are tight there. I will let you know.

    Also if anyone interested the air compressor is still working on my car. It appears the hoses were all deteriorated, so I had some extra (tygon tubing from work) and things are working again. Also the shocks I am thinking of replacing monroe sells a pair for 90 bucks US MA826 direct OEM replacement comes with new air tubing and everything.
  • Hi Anthony I,m having the same problem. Can you scan and e-mail me the instrunctions? Thanks for your help, JD
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,057
    Hello Dnilson,
    I apologize that you are experiencing this problem. Can you please email me so I can get more information from you to look into this further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • lllabratlllabrat Posts: 12
    I have the same exact creaking problem on my 2006 Rendezvous. It sounded like it was coming from my right hand side of the car. I replace the ball joint last year (and the hub) and it did not help at all. The hub *really* did need to be replaced but the ball joint probally was fine. That was about at 70k miles. I will try tightening up the brace struts suggested by Nick to see if that helps. The noise happens when the weight is transitioning on and off the corner of the car when turning or entering/exiting driveways. Other than that the car tracks true and straight. I am rather dubious of the mechanic's suggestion that it is the rack and pinion steering. If the rack was making those kind of noises I imagine it would affect steering and tracking.

Sign In or Register to comment.