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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just purchased a 2005 Buick Rendezvous with a steady "Security" light on. Everything works fine, but I asked about this light from the used car lot they said it was just because no key fobs were programmed. I purchased a new fob and could not get it to program. After much reading on the internet, I'm beginning to wonder if is a BCM problem. I went to the dealer, and they said it was going to be over $100 just to start diagnosing. I'm willing to put some time into this before opening the check book at the dealer. Also, of the two keys I received, neither one looks like a master. Both have "PK3" stamped at the base of the key. Any assistance would be appreciated. Also, I have tried the 10 min key on to clear, but the light never would go out. I've disconnected the battery for 20 min and reconnect; no joy. Also I've removed the BCM 10amp fuse and re-inserted with no luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,682
    I'll make the assumption the key system is the same as my leSabre's. It also uses a PK3 key.

    The keys are programmable into the list of 10 acceptable key entries by putting in an original key from the list, turning it to ON, then removing it and putting in the newly cut PK3 key. Turn it to ON for a second, and then turn to crank the engine and start.

    The key fobs must be programmed into the computer by a Tech II or other electronic device capable of accessing the computer. This will be hard to find outside of a dealer. There may be a local mechanic who has one products that can access the computer and handle the programming, but they are also going to charge--unless you have a friend with access to one.

    There may be some websites that list local companies that can do that for setting up your key fobs. But the dealer can check and program in a fob, that you conveniently buy from them!

    It may appear to cost more, but I think your best bet is to have a dealer check into this for you.

    This message has been approved.

  • nlt99nlt99 Posts: 9
    Don't know if this will be of any help to you, but here are the instructions I used to program my new key fobs:

    There's a manual method of programming keyless entry transmitters also. Make sure that you have all the transmitters you want to be able to use handy because the system will have to "learn" each one, even if they already worked before. If you have the memory seat/radio/mirror option you'll need to program the remote for 'driver 1' first, then 'driver 2', then up to 2 others.

    1. Close the vehicle doors.

    2. Turn OFF the ignition.

    3. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.

    4. Press and hold the driver side door lock switch to the unlock position.

    5. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.)

    6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.)

    7. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.) Leave the ignition key in the ignition lock cylinder.

    8. Release the door lock switch. The body control module (BCM) will sound three beeps in order to verify the Program Mode has been activated.

    9. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless entry transmitter simultaneously for approximately 5 seconds . The BCM will sound two beeps in order to verify that the transmitter has been successfully programmed.

    10. Perform the previous step to program up to four transmitters.

    11. Remove the ignition key in order to exit the Program Mode.

    12. Verify the proper operation of each transmitter.

    Good luck! Nick
  • Thanks for the replies to my dilemma on the Rendezvous. I've tried the manual programming of the fob as described, but the BCM does not beep to signify that it has gone into programming mode. I'm starting to wonder, with a steady "Security" light, if a previous owner has installed a bypass of some kind. Looks like I need to start searching for a reputable dealer.
  • Hello, I'm a 2004 RDV owner. My car has right at 90k miles on it and I have NEVER had a problem with it - just regular oil changes and I'm on my 3rd set of tires. Yesterday I had it towed to the GM dealer because I couldn't get the key into the ignition - my guess was a broken lock cylinder or something with the ignition switch. Well, that was correct but guess what? They told me the cylinder lock/ignition switch is all part of the steering column and I have to replace the whole thing, to the tune of almost $1800 including the tow (3 miles) and the parts and labor. I cannot imagine that the parts are not separate for this type of thing. I'm just wondering if anyone has ever heard of this happening and that the whole steering column and ignition assembly is truly one part.

    The shop foreman told me he hasn't seen this happen but a couple times in the past 5 or 6 years; that its kind of a fluke thing to break. I'm still in shock but I have to repair it, as the car is worthless as a trade in if its not fixed.

    Thanks for any tips or comments.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Too bad there are dishonest dealers!! This makes me very mad and gives Buick a bad name, but it's the dealers fault.

    http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1469G-Ignition-Lock-Cylinder/dp/B001S7N4AC

    That is your part there. OEM Part # 15298923. You can most certainly replace just the bad ignition lock cylinder and its CHEAP ! I would go back to them with the printout and be polite, but firm, that they almost took you for $1800, that you are not happy, and that you want the work done at a discount or you will take it elsewhere. Even if you have to pay for another tow, that is far cheaper than letting them rip you off.
  • I have a 2006 AWD Rendezvous with 92000 miles! My extended GM warranty expires in about 3 weeks! I just had the car into the dealers for a checkup because the car was making grinding sounds when turning right or left! The replaced the front bushings on both sides and that helped a lot. However, it still makes a sqealing sound when you turn right or left but it doesn't seem like it is coming from the wheels. At about 45000 miles I had it in for noises in the differentials and all the did was replaced the fluid. Now that my warranty is almost up I want to make sure it is not my differentials that need attention! Thanks
  • I bought my 2002 Rendezvous brand new at the end of 2001. I put 185000 miles on it and have had every conceivable problem over the years. I really liked the car but I couldn't trust it any more. ( the intake gasket needed replacing for the second time) So I traded it in for a Honda CRV. I would have liked the chevy equinox but can't trust a GM product. Maybe ten years later they have improved, but it's too new to take a chance.
    Of the repair bills, I found I spent about $8000 on repairs.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    ron44094,
    I would recommend asking the dealer to look into them. If you do not trust the dealer I would recommend a second opinion from a different GM dealer. Please keep me updated on your situation.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Ron,

    We had a similar problem. Have the dealer (or yourself) take the front wheels off. On the back of the brake rotor, there is a piece of sheet metal (probably used to protect the brake rotors and pads from rocks or branches.

    We had a similar problem with a "clicking" noise when turning and it was coming from the front wheels. I pulled these pieces of sheet metal away from the brake rotors, and the problem went away. Now every six months or so, after the sound returns, I bend the sheet metal away from the rotors and we're good for another six months or so.

    I hope this helps.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Mind sharing the list of repairs you had to do over 185,000 miles and their cost?
  • I have had my 07 Rendezvous for a year now. It was GM Certified when I bought it with 59k miles. I also had a 12,000 mile warranty. After I had it for about a week I noticed that it was having problems starting and then it would stall. It did it a few times and I brought it to the dealer. Well of course it would not do it when I brought it in so there was nothing they said they could do without the problem occurring in front of them. Well a year has gone by and the problem has gotten more frequent to the point today I had to try about six times to get it to start and then the battery went dead and I had to jump it. Has anyone else had the same problems? Could it be just a simple battery problem? I've read some posts that people have had similar problems with no luck at finding the problem/solution.
  • I had a similar problem with my 2002. It turned it was the crank timing sensor.
  • I would start with replacing the battery. My original battery did die around 60K. However, if that does not work; I had a Dodge years ago and the car would die at stop lights. That was the coil. I wish you luck. But the battery may be cheaper than 1 hour of labor. I would by a good one though and trade in your current battery.
  • I agree. My original battery became unreliable also at around 60,000. Any mechanic , even Sears or kmart auto, can run a quick test on your battery to see if its holding a charge properly or not. That's where to start.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    queenbheather,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Were you planning on taking the vehicle back to the dealership? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I have a question about two different beeping noises. One is a single
    note and the other an double note. They seem to be about a minute
    apart and I can't see anything in the owner's manual which refers to
    sound alarms. There are no warning lights on the dash. Are these a
    sign of something serious? Or can I ignore them for a while until I
    can afford to have them investigated.
    Thanks for any help
    Ann Forrester
  • I just bought a used 2002 RDV CXL 3 months ago, it had 98k when purchased, now has 103k. A few issues I am having are, whining noises from the rear when making a tight turn. The drivers side heated seat(Leather) does not work. The side view mirrors do not adjust with the automatic adjusting pad, They will adjust upwards, but not downwards or to either sides(both mirrors have same issue). Also the memory seat feature will not allow me to save seat settings on either 1 or 2 but it will work with the reset last position button, so we just program my seating arrangement to it. The car does not beep or make noise when locking with key fob even though the settings are set for it to do so.

    I have noticed that the coolant needs replaced and a radiator flush is desperately needed as it's all gunky in the overflow container. The temp gauge runs a bit past the middle line, but does cool itself down pretty quickly. The gas gauge is a pain in the rear, once the tank is on half, it never gives off an accurate fuel amount, it's either full when it isn't or empty until I make a tight turn. Luckily I haven't ran out of gas yet ;)

    Passenger side window makes a crackling sound when it's rolled up or rolled down, thought to be dirt...but I'm not wagering on that theory. I didn't read reviews on the vehicle before I bought it. I had to get a large vehicle with 3rd row seats as we have 4 children at home and 2 in a different state who come to visit. I love my truck soooo much despite all the bad reviews and the fact that I might not be the lucky RDV owner that I thought I was lol. But any idea on what the problems may be?

    Also, this just started today. When I first bought the truck none of the cig lighter plugs worked, changed the fuse and they were fine. Today(3 months later) the fuse has been blowing again. I replaced it this morning, and within an hour the fuse was blown. We thought maybe it was the car charger as it's just a cheap universal one, took it out, fuse still blew. Thought it was the radar detector, unplugged it, fuse blew again. We haven't added any new things to it, just did an oil change, and changed out a fog light. My rear end is also uneven. We had a rear suspension spring fixed on pass side, the drivers side is still good so we left it alone. We also noticed the black rubber tubing around the self adjusting air suspension metal rod things behind rear tires are all eatin up, and the metal behind the rubber is rusted out. Do we need to replace air suspension? We have the built in air compressor which works fine, but scares the $^(&&*^* out of me when it runs lol

    Help anyone? I'm at my wits end. I'm okay with fixing it and i'm okay with always fixing something as I love my truck so much, but where do I start? My husband is pretty mechanically inclined, but I need to learn the in's and out's too. Thanks in advance. ~Tami~
  • The fuse problem was a simple fix. I found that my universal off brand phone charger must have had a short in it. I bought a new pack of 20amp fuses, and tested everything. When I plugged my cell into the charger POOF! Blew a fuse. Easy fix, just trashed the charger and no longer have that problem.

    I took my truck into a mechanic today, (I wont use a GM dealer because they OVER price everything). for the rear end noises, which after reading several threads, sounded like a rear diff problem. Most of the posters said the noises went away after refilling the rear diff, so I took the truck in to have the diff filled, and the mechanic is trying to tell me I need a whole new rear end. I'm not sure what to think of it actually. It could be the rear diff does just need fluid, but the dealer I bought the truck from did no repairs to anything at all. He did fix a rear spring that I noticed was broken into 2 pieces, but once he changed that spring my rear end became very un-even/lop-sided. The truck has a very obvious lean to the left(drivers side). I only notice the noise when making tight left hand turns, and mind you my air shocks are completely shot, in fact they may be the original shocks that the truck had put on during assembly.

    Could it be possible that the truck is moaning when making the left hand turns due to a substantial amount of weight bearing on the left hand side due to the lean? I'm wondering if fixing my shocks, driver side spring and filling the rear diff would help the noise. I'm thinking now that it may be a rear wheel bearing making noise due to the huge load put on it when turning into the lean? I hope that makes sense. I'm just wondering if this is a possibility or if I am really looking at a new rear end. I also have a slight wobble in the passenger rear tire, also wheel bearing? Or could it be just a simple balance issue? The moaning noise does happen when turning right, but it's not as noticeable. In fact I haven't noticed it but my husband says it's there.

    Anyways, that's whats going on so far...I think. I will be taking it in to a few more mechanics to have diagnostics ran to figure out if I really need a whole new rear end or not. As far as my mirrors, window, heated seats and memory seat goes...I have bigger fish to fry with this truck before those are dealt with, but I will keep everyone informed as I go!!!! BTW- I STILL love my truck :)
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,183
    For the gas guage problem it may very well be an issue with the c-305 connector (google gm c305 connector for more info).

    Moan or groan typicly at slow speeds from the rear could very well be either low on fluid (meaning there is a leak somewhere) or fluid just needs changing (via the 'proper' procedure).
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