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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • Please comment on what you feel should be done and when. Thanks
  • Good afternoon caande,

    It looks like you've worked with your dealership on this but without any results in getting your primary concern diagnosed. If we can follow up on this with your dealer, please send us more details (including your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership) to

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • UGH...I have a 2005 Buick Rendezvous. I had a 2002 which blew up after two years, hence being replaced with the 2005. My car is now seven years old with 120,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on two weeks ago. I took it to dealer and dealer says I need a new engine to the tune of 4,000 - 5,000 dollars. I reached out to GM in Michigan explaining that this is my second Rendezvous within 12 years. All my cars before lasted that long and longer without all of this expense. At this point they are "willing," to give me a $3000 toward a new car. Does anyone else find this ridiculous!!! I can't afford a new car in this economy nor can I afford an unreliable GM!!! Any suggestions????
  • Hi Andykay,

    I have a 2006 Buick Rendezvous and I sometimes have the same issue. I have found that when I park on an incline with the front of the car higher than the back, put the hand brake on and leave it parked for an hour or so, it usually goes off by it's self. As far as the root cause....the verdict is still out on that
  • Good afternoon natshans,

    I see you're still searching for the root of the concern; had you already had this diagnosed by a dealership? If so, and if you would like for us to follow up on that with them, please contact us at (include your name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your dealer).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I've got a rattleing noise like something in the wheel weld is fliping but it's in the engine. Buick garage says it's in the #6 cylinder, possible cam & lifters? They say it will be very expensive. Noise happens between 15 & 20 mph, just as it shifts. In 3,000 miles it used 2 qts of oil but there's no oil leaks. No smoke is noiceable coming out of exhaust although there is black stains slightly on the bottom of chrome exhaust tip. Most of the time at highway speeds (70 mph) everything appears smooth. When oil is down a quart or slightly more there is a rattleing sound that comes and goes at 70 mph. I can't get rid of the Rainier because of this but otherwise this is a good vehicle. What can I do with this engine noise and how much will it cost?
  • I have concern that it only happens when you shift, If it were the cam or lifter, i think it would be an issue all the time. Ask around for a good mechanic that people trust.
  • You could try going to an automotive store, tell them your problem and ask them if they feel a "LUCUs oil additive may help- it cost about $15 a quart, but its cheaper than an engine rebuilt.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,005
    Good morning malott57!

    We're sorry to hear about this noise concern you're having with your Rainier and see that you have been to visit the Buick dealership on this. If you wanted for us to check in with them at all, please contact us at (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • My wife's 2005 Rendezvous Ultra (purchased new; now approx 45K miles) began running rough and its service engine soon light went on. She immediately took it to the local GM dealership (Maher Chevrolet) for service. I've just been told that one of the cylinders is not working. They have ruled out the ignition coil. At a MINIMUM the repair will run $3,600. If we replace the engine the cost will exceed $7,000. Is anyone aware of a serious issue with this engine? I will need to think long and hard about buying another GM vehicle in the future.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,699
    edited January 2013
    That's very strange. Did you get a precise diagnosis---a bad valve, or cracked cylinder head, or bad head gasket or.....the "cylinder not working" is pretty vague, and the dealer should have easily been able to zero in on the precise problem. I'd hate to see the engine torn apart for no good reason. They should have performed a Cylinder Leakdown Test.
  • I assume you have the 3.6 DOHC engine not the 3.4 OHV engine correct? Have heard of some time chain issues on the earlier 3.6s (which yours is if you have that engine). The timing chain repair is expensive. The 2005 3.4 and 2006 3.5 have been pretty bulletproof. I have a 2006 rendezvous with the 3.5 and 117k miles and it runs great and burns no oil.

  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Agreed 100% with the previous two posters. We don't have a complete diagnosis here. The engine is apparently running on 5 cylinders - if a timing chain issue had come up I would not expect 5 cylinders to run OK. These engines are pretty bulletproof internally. I would make sure they tested the entire fuel delivery system, electrical, and a leakdown before proceeding. Probably time to get a second opinion. I bet it's something cheap. 2007 Rendezvous 3.5L with 84,000mi and it doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil.

    Yes all Ultra's had the 3.6L DOHC.
  • Thanks for the quick replies. Right now I've got $525 in labor in removing the manifold. Will be another $270 if I want to do the leakage test. The leakage test would verify the cylinder failure. To repair the engine would cost a total of approximiately $4,000 (including the $525). I think a second opinion is a good idea. I hate to spend this much money on a vehicle almost 8 years old. Even then the 1 yr./12K miles engine work warranty would only cover the parts replaced. I've got a serious case of sticker shock. Should I do the leakage test first?
  • They didn't do those test.. They pulled the R/H head. The noise is coming from the #6 cylinder. They replaced all right side lifters and went thru the head and replaced all seals (One was bad & on #6). All lifers appears good. Put it all back together and noise is worse after spending $1400.00. Now I've driven it 1,500 miles to Florida with the noise coming & going. Engine now uses no oil. Noise is still coming from #6. At 70 mph, noise starts and chatters, then stops for about 2 minutes, then chatters again. Any ideas?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    To both of you:

    First off, sorry to hear this is happening. We've had 7 Buicks over the years and none have had engine or trans failure, so as a fellow Buick owner you have my sympathies.

    Secondly, have either of you opened a case with GM consumer support? You both need to. I believe the email address is I had a case for a Pontiac, and they treated me well, were very prompt. I would explain what's happening and ask for financial assistance and in the case of malott57 explain that the fix isn't good and you don't have faith in that dealer. In both of your cases, this isn't just a normal repair, this is unusual, and not normal for your mileage if you have done maintenance all along.

    Spending $4000 on fixing one of these is not reasonable unless GM kicks in some assistance. There's way too many of these in salvage yards. You can pick up a good engine that's never been opened up for probably $1000 and have a QUALITY independent shop put it in for you and be at $2000.

    #1- keep at the dealer. If you've used the dealer for maintenance and other repairs, make it clear to them that you've been loyal and want some help.
    #2- open a case with GM.
    #3- if all else fails, find an independent mechanic that is well regarded and swap the entire engine. That used engine will last a lot longer than one that gets rebuilt usually, because too many times the person doing the internal engine work doesn't have the experience to get it exactly right and you could end up with 'gremlins' a couple years later.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    >#3- if all else fails, find an independent mechanic that is well regarded and swap the entire engine. That used engine will last a lot longer than one that gets rebuilt usually,

    Poster can check and search for whichever engine his is 3.4 or 3.6. I searched and found 3.6's with under 100000 mi in the 800-1200$ range in this area for a used engine.

    I would seriously consider a GM remanufactured engine installed by a good independent if the car is otherwise in good shape and you wish to keep it.

    If you check around some independent shops who often rebuild engines themselves, they may know what the flaw is and may be able to help you without a replacement engine.

    This message has been approved.

  • Thanks for the suggestions. I have just emailed GM to see if they can provide me any assistance. Later today I will speak with the service advisor further to see if he can provide me with specifics as to what they have found thus far. Right now I leaning toward having the leakdown test performed as this seems to be the usual diagnostic test for serious engine problems.
  • Hmmm....I wonder if you have a loose wrist pin. There is a test for that---you run the car at idle, listen to the noise, then pull or short out one spark plug, and if the noise doubles in frequency, it was a wrist pin.

    There's also "piston slap", or a collapsing piston, but that's less likely.
  • I have had the car for over 3 years, and while there are other issues (replaced sensor in front wheel hub, driver side window rolls up/down when it wants, new battery in keyless remote, but all four doors don't respond in locking or unlocking), but my new primary concern due to how cold it driver's side seat no longer heats up. The light on the switch still lights up when you turn it on/off, but no heat. The owner's manual says fuse #42 works this function, but light would be out if it was a fuse. The wiring under seat looks hooked in properly...what do I need to be looking at here?? I'm so spoiled to this feature......I want it fixed fast and cheap!!!
    Thanks alot :)
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