Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

rjmedvetz

The OEM tire size on our 2004 Rendezvous is P215/70R16. We inadvetantly replaced them with P215/60R16 in May. We noticed a speedometer speed error on a recent long trip when comparing the speed to a GPS speed. The speedometer indicated 5mph faster than the GPS speed. A further check on a measured mile confirmed the speedometer error. The speedometer is driven off the transaxle electronically by a speed sensor. Prior to electronics, a speedometer cable connected the transmission to the speedometer and one could change the speedometer driven gear to compensate for this type of error. Does the 2004 Rendezvous transaxle have a speedometer driven gear to affect this change. If not any suggestions short of replacing the tires would be appreciated.

kyfdx

I don't have the answer to your technical question...

But, I wouldn't want to run those tires, long term.. They are 6.1% smaller than stock... which means your engine is running at higher RPM to achieve the same speed..... using more gas, more wear and tear, etc, etc..

I know it hurts to ditch perfectly good tires, but it might be a false economy.

imidazol97

I doubt it will work, but I was under the impression that some the powertrain control modules, the speed sensors of wheel rotation could be changed by a Tech I or other full-service computer tool to the various wheel sizes that were standard for that vehicle.

In other words, if one of the potential factory sizes was a smaller diameter tire similar to your faulty size now in place, selecting that size would put you closer to the correct speed. That is important because the computer calculates some operating parameters for the engine/powertrain based on the vehicle tire rotation speed.

Easiest place to start would be checking for various models of Rendevouz with smaller tires. Check the rotations per mile for that size on Michelin's website to find one similar to the rotations per mile for your current tires.

Then start asking if the computer is adaptable using a Tech II without a PROM change or something like that.

bxd

There are no stock sizes smaller than what you originally had unfortunately. You could go to a custom tuner to get it fixed, but that's expensive and as was pointed out above, everything is going to run 6% off and thus wear 6% faster. Your tires will wear faster, wheel bearings, CV joints, transmission, engine.
Who made the mistake? If the tire shop sold you the wrong size you need to go back and demand a no cost swap, and if they complain, explain that they've wasted a lot of gas and placed extra wear on your vehicle due to their mistake.
If you chose the size and made a mistake, I would get the right size installed and put the used tires on Craigslist. I've had good success selling good used tires on Craigslist. You'll probably not get what you wish for them, but on the other hand, living with the wrong tires for 40-80k miles is much worse. Correcting the error will pay for itself and then some over the life of those tires.

tflanster

Where is it? I have a 2003 Rendezvous. The temp display is erratic. It will jump from say, 76 to 90 then back to 78 then up again, and so on. All fuses are correct, everything in the other displays is fine.

So I started looking for the sensor. At least three sites told me it's (variously) behind the lower bumper, ahead of the radiator. I couldn't find it there. Another site said, take off the grill and its right there. Nope. The third site said, next to the right headlight. Don't see it. I have seen pix of the part so I kinda know what I'm looking for. I'm hoping the sensor is blocked somehow and that I can clear the obstruction. Changing it is not a big deal either. I found the part on the 'net for about $20.

So . . . Where is it?????

Thanks

imidazol97

Try this link

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=367387&ukey_product=2- - - 564309

It should open a page with #19 part being the ambient temperature sensor. It's right in front of the lower parts where the air is scooped up from under the bumper to go into the radiator.

Note, you can click on the image to enlarge on both the image and in a separate link.

Some of these go bad, but yours may just be the connector has been corrupted. Take it apart, clean, apply dielectric grease, and reassemble. Because it keeps changing temps, I suspect that corrosion affecting the resistance might be at the connector. Or you might have a wire that has broken. You can turn on key and have someone watch inside on the external temp readout while you wiggle the wires up there to see if a wire has broken some of its tiny wires inside from movement. That would also change resistance as the wire wiggles in the air stream while the car is moving.

Hope this helps.

imidazol97

Try this link

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=367387&ukey_product=2- - 564309

It should open a page with a diagram that shows part #19 being the ambient temperature sensor. It's right in front of the lower parts where the air is scooped up from under the bumper to go into the radiator.

You can click on the image to enlarge or click on the button above to get an enlarged view. You can right click and drag the image in the box to see the part you want as you enlarge the image.

Note that part #32 and #33 are the hood latch and bracket for latch. Your ambient temp sensor is right behind and below the way it looks on the diagram.

Good luck.

tflanster

YAAAY! Found it! It isn't under the bumper. It isn't behind the right headlight. I don't have to remove the grille. Just open the hood and look at the hood latch plate. There's the sensor, right underneath it.

No tools, no crawling under the car, nothing but releasing a clamp that holds the sensor onto a harness, pop the blue cap that covers the wires and clean it out.

Now to drive the car to see if the sensor works correctly. If not a new one costs only a few bucks.

Many thanks to all!

imidazol97

>Just open the hood and look at the hood latch plate. There's the sensor, right underneath it.

I thought that reference point would help locate it in the pictures. I don't have a view of the hood of a Rendezvous latch area, but that picture would have helped me.

toni07

I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous, have had it for about 5 years and my head gasket has blown for the second time. I notice for each time it happen, pulling up to a stop sign or red light the car would idle properly and the temp hand would go down to maybe half but just as soon as I apply gas the hand would run hot and this would happen as soon as I would leave my house sometimes so it was given time to just run hot-hot. It plays out the same each time and cost so much to repair!

rebekkaa

My 2005 Buick Rendezvous CXL's temperature gauge is erratic. It goes into the red and past the red while driving (no rhyme or reason to it) but the car is not overheating, no warning lights, the hood is cool to the touch, a/c works, heat works, no funny smells, noises or leaks that I can see - I'M LOST, PLEASE HELP and tell me it's a cheap fix

ray80

Could be a number of things. First thing I would check is coolant level both in overflow bottle and radiator (check while engine is cooled off). If coolant is at proper level a thermostat that is sticky and not open as it should be may be the culprit or perhaps water pump.

clm51

I had exactly the same problem with my temp gauge a year and a half ago. There was no way to tell if it was working or not. My auto repair guy said the only fix is to have it rebuilt. They don't make them for after market replacement any more since the car is no longer made. To get to it they have to take the whole front dash off and either send it off and you are without your car for up to 3 weeks or find someone who would travel to come fix it. That is what my mechanic was able to arrange. He knew someone 3 hours away who came and rebuilt mine and it took one day. The cost was over $700 but that was better than having to rent a car for 3 weeks. And now I'm having an issue with the AWD Disable light coming on. My mechanic first thought it was the rear differential, but turns out it something in the BCM and I had to take it 60 miles away to find someone who would work on it. Small service depts in small towns just will not work on some of the issues the Rendezvous has. But I love my car. Bought a second one used after my first one was totaled. Good luck.

ray80

Hhmm While the AWD disabled light could be BCM related, the more typical issues would be with a wheel speed sensor or wiring to them or perhaps an issue with the C305 connector ('google gm c305' for more info)

clm51

Just got word yesterday that the solenoid that operates the pump which pumps the fluid into the rear differential has gone out. Also had some strange codes in the computer. Service dept said they had never had to order a new solenoid. And once replaced will still have to determine why it went out. Probably a wiring problem that will have to be fixed also. So the differential is OK and the pump is OK. Will be the middle of next week before I get it back. But am using a very good dealership with great service dept. Just didn't need this $1000+ expense on top of a major medical issue right now!

nj_bob

I have a 2006 Rendezvous that just turned 100,000 miles. I'm going to be doing a tune-up (plugs & wires) and want to know if the (very expensive) ignition coil should also be replaced. Thanks for your help.

nlt99

No need to replace coils normally

rendez1600

Did u ever figure it out I've got the same issue with my 06

thegmguy

You need a new flow valve/sensor and the fluid needs to be drained and replaced. The part and fluid alone is expensive.

wessdogg

I followed these directions and the issue was resolved:

http://home.comcast.net/~thekorpalskis/RVSfix.html

1wildpete

Thanks for the infro, I copied and pasted it to a word doc for future reference, thanks.

vuguy2004

OK, long story short: I struck a small/medium sized animal on the highway the other night. The only damage was a broken air dam reflector. Anyway, I bought a replacement reflector for my '04 Rendezvous and decided to install it yesterday. Well, there are 4 screws that hold the original air dam reflector in place. That should be easy to remove and replace, right? Nope.

I tried everything to get these screws to budge. From the looks of it, the screws go through the plastic deflector, then goes through metal. Needless to say, it's on there pretty securely and I tried everything to loosen those screws. Ratchet, wrench, vice grips, you name it.

Has anyone here ever had to remove their air dam reflector? If so, how did you get it loose? Any help would be appreciated.

imidazol97

>If so, how did you get it loose?

Do those "screws" appear to be plastic and sit in a small surround that looks like a washer?

I bet they operate like pop rivets. You get a small thin screwdriver under the "head" and lift it. That allows the expanders on the end to collapse allowing the whole unit to pull back out of the plastic layers.

vuguy2004

Thanks for the reply. No, the screws are metal. However, they do sit in a small surround that resembles a washer. Still, I did take your advice and tried a small screwdriver under the head and tried to lift. No dice. They won't budge. When I first looked at taking this thing off yesterday, i figured this would be an easy job. I had no idea these "screws" would be so pesky.

vuguy2004

For those who need to remove their air dam deflector at some point: There are 4 screws that hold it together along with 2 plastic rivets. I pulled those off and they broke. Did not replace. Their not really necessary IMO. The 4 screws were 10 MM. Took 'em off, removed the broken part , and replaced with a new deflector. Not GM OEM, but a knockoff that works just as well. 58 bucks shipped. Job took about a half hour.

bxd

I've replaced my air dam on my 2007. The 4 x 10mm screws are indeed metal and screw into metal. They are probably stuck due to being close to the road for years. Lots of water/dirt/corrosion. I can't remember off hand how much access is available to the back side of the screws. If you can get a steel/brass brush to clean the threads that would be step 1. Next spray the threads with PB Blaster - by the far the best penetrant. If you're used to WD40, this is a whole different level of penetrating power for breaking up corrosion. Soak from front and back with spray, then take a hammer and lightly tap the screw heads a few times each. This causes some stress on the corrosive bond and also allows the PB Blaster to get in deeper. Wait a couple hours before trying again, or until next day if the weather is dry and penetrant won't be washed off. They will probably back out with your ratchet now. If not, try a breaker bar but don't get too forceful. Better to spray a second time and wait and try again than break one and have to drill the stud and/or tap the hole bigger.

I remember using a screwdriver and needle nose on the plastic clips you'll also have to remove, and not breaking them.

Take it slow and you'll be as good as new.

FWIW the OEM deflector was $90 at the dealership.

bveach

have a 2004 Buick Rendezvous, check engine light on. has code of PO452 (Fuel Tank Pressure Senor Circuit Low Voltage). have checked vacuum, changed fuel filter, Fuel tank Pressure Sensor, new plugs and wires, new air filter. I also have a like a cutting out when going 55 mph, let off gas and it stops. I can fill up with high octane and it doesn't do it. till i get about 1/2 tank, seems worse the closer i get to empty. I have also put a new fuel cap, changed oil, new transmisson filter and fluid, I have had this issue for several months, have been replacing items and still have problems, I need help. I can't a ford to take it to a dealer. But have taken it and got a code of the PO452 and replaced the pressure sensor like they said but still have the same problems. Any clues? Could it be a weak fuel pump ?

ray80

bveach said:

have a 2004 Buick Rendezvous, check engine light on. has code of PO452 (Fuel Tank Pressure Senor Circuit Low Voltage). have checked vacuum, changed fuel filter, Fuel tank Pressure Sensor, new plugs and wires, new air filter. I also have a like a cutting out when going 55 mph, let off gas and it stops. I can fill up with high octane and it doesn't do it. till i get about 1/2 tank, seems worse the closer i get to empty. I have also put a new fuel cap, changed oil, new transmisson filter and fluid, I have had this issue for several months, have been replacing items and still have problems, I need help. I can't a ford to take it to a dealer. But have taken it and got a code of the PO452 and replaced the pressure sensor like they said but still have the same problems. Any clues? Could it be a weak fuel pump ?

I might wonder about the C-305 connector, it can cause a number of issues.

bveach

put new fuel pump in yesterday 1-27-15, done a reset, and still check engine light is on and still pulling the same code PO452.

ray80

bveach said:

put new fuel pump in yesterday 1-27-15, done a reset, and still check engine light is on and still pulling the same code PO452.

Have you checked the connector mentioned?

jhapp1990

Okay so I am new to this site as far as posting. I am in quite the pickle with my wife's 2002 Buick Rendezvous CXL. It blew a head gasket about a year ago and I got a motor for it. I installed the motor and engine wiring harness just fine. I thought. Then I noticed that the ground wires are not hooked up to anything and are missing there clamps. So I found a rendezvous that was being parted out and obtained a wiring harness. Now, my problem lies here: I took the old harness out without marking where stuff plugs in at. I have the alldata for this car but I just cannot understand the wiring diagrams and I need pics of how to route the harness in the engine bay. Can someone please assist me here? We absolutely must have a second vehicle as soon as possible. I would love descriptive pics of how to hook up harness...I will add photos in the morning.

cagma46

I am considering buying an 03 Rendezvous that has a broken timing chair. It is very cheap. Any idea how much labor is going to cost me to fix it?

ray80

cagma46 said:

I am considering buying an 03 Rendezvous that has a broken timing chair. It is very cheap. Any idea how much labor is going to cost me to fix it?

I assume you mean broken timeing CHAIN. I believe this may be am interference engine and if it is there quite likely is damage beyond the chain itself.

Hopefully someone much more knowledgable will chime in on this.

LilMonster

jpierce said:

I checked thoses strut bars and the one on the driver side the two front bolts are stripped (darn mechanics), I am off to home depot to get some new bolts, I hope this solve some of the problem, however the odd clunking sound does worry me though (brake and acceleration), but if it has been happening for 3 years and nothing yet I am not going to worry about it too much (one mechanic said steering column another indicate it could be the drive shaft for AWD, due to the poor engineering around the drive shaft nuckle under the car), This could explan why RDV did not come with AWD in later model years.

LilMonster

My 05 buick rendezvous cxl had bad clunking and rubbing sound front passenger changed both struts , no more clunking noise or rubbing sounds

LilMonster

Hi Everyone. Well after driving the RDV for awhile with a right rear spring broken (in the mount, so the spring was not really affected), I was able to get a couple of springs for 100 bucks, however my mechanic tells me that my RDV will require a wheel alignment after they are installed. I am not so sure if the wheel alignment is required. Anyone done the rear springs and was a wheel alignment involved ?

Thanks

James

LilMonster

I did my back springs and didn't balance the tires drives fine 05 buick rendezvous cxl