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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Thanks for the advice!This year I've had to drive around on full heat,max fan and I never had to raise it past 25C in the past.Can I change it out myself?It's also important to check coolant levels,this would affect circulation through the heater core.
  • Just go to an auto store (Auto Zone for example) purchase the HEPA filter and change it yourself. However, like I said I am not sure where it is located (under the dash on the firewall etc.) As for the coolant level affecting your heating I think not. From my experience if you are low enough on coolant to affect the heater core, you would have no coolant or very little circulating through the engine and such a dead engine.

    If you do have a concern about your coolant though check your intake manifold gasket for leaking and coolant levels in reservior. If you smell a sweet smell very strong on an hot engine good chances are you have a leak (also look for pooling just by the throttle body on top of the engine or leaking on the ground after sitting in the driveway overnight). If you had your intake manifold gasket changed just ignore this paragraph.

    James ;)
  • I just changed out the HEPA's(there is two,side by side, inside a door compartment in the glovebox)no problem!$75 at the dealer with tax(6% Can)Thanks again,they were really grey and clogged,and made a real improvement.I forgot the salesperson told me about them in '02,she had said change them out once a year.But at that price,and considering my personal experience I'd wait a while longer.I appreciate the coolant advice,I had a leak in winter of '04 at -25C.It was cured with some Prestone sealant additive and I haven't had a problem since.Told by the dealer it's the dreaded $1500 gasket job,my Trusted Mechanic said"it's little dribble,try the additive".As for A/C problems,it may be the condensor and change out with a STEEL aftermarket,$250.My T.M. saved me a grand on that one!
  • I just changed out the HEPA's(there is two,side by side, inside a door compartment in the glovebox)no problem!$75 at the dealer with tax(6% Can)Thanks again,they were really grey and clogged,and made a real improvement.I forgot the salesperson told me about them in '02,she had said change them out once a year.But at that price,and considering my personal experience I'd wait a while longer.I appreciate the coolant advice,I had a leak in winter of '04 at -25C.It was cured with some Prestone sealant additive and I haven't had a problem since.Told by the dealer it's the dreaded $1500 gasket job,my Trusted Mechanic said"it's little dribble,try the additive".As for A/C problems,it may be the condensor and change out with a STEEL aftermarket,$250.My T.M. saved me a grand on that one!
  • its the dexcool sludging up. do a google or yahoo search for dexcool sludge. theres a class action against GM for it
  • i hear its because verizon isnt suppsorting analog anymore thats why they are not gonna be supported. personlally i despise onstar and think its an invasion of privacy. i think that GM needs to make onstar optional or a way to deactivate it ive already gottewn my new overhead console minus onstar buttons and pulled the fuse see ya onstar
  • Thanks for letting me know about where the filters are, I will have to change mine as well. I got the RDV back today from the dealer with hood freshly painted and fixed with a sealant added along the back seam. We will see how long this lasts. As for the AC condensor I changed mine out at 38000 km under warranty. There is a bolt that sticks out from the frame some place and rubs against the condensor causing a whole over time (resulting in premature condensor failure). The GM mechanic told me the fix was to grind the bolt down and replace the condensor (so I hope this will not happen again). So if you replace the condensor look for that dreaded bolt and grind it down or no matter steel or aluminum it could problems for you.

    anyway good night

    James
  • I also need to repair a cracked tail light cover on the tail gate - without replacing the whole thing - $500 to replace the tail gate applique!?!
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    Sounds like it might be time to check Ebay for some of your parts you are looking for. There are usually headlights, tail lights, etc listed at good prices.
  • So i was reading this thread and I went to check mine. I have NEVER even known about this "hidden trap door" in my glove box.

    No filter in it?? Is this something standard or something I would have asked for when I bought the car 5 years ago?

    How is not having had the filter for 5 years affected my system. Which, by the way, I don't have heat either. The engine gets hot fine (no thermostat problem)... blower is fine... so where to go from here? (you're going to say "the repair shop" aren't you?)
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    If your thermostat is working, and your fan motor is working, than you might have a problem with the vents which allow the warm air to enter the cabin vents. These "mixer" doors open and close depending on how the switch or lever on the climate control head in the dash is set.

    It could be something mechanical {broken or binding cable} or a problem with the vacuum controls which open or close the doors.

    Do all the functions {vent, defrost, defog, a/c} work? Do you have manual or electronic climate controls?
  • I dunno if this is it but there is a TSB on this type of problem on mine it was making a whistling noise so i did this bulletin and cleared it right up ill just put the key parts but if interested i can prolly do the full instructions its easy to do if you are comfortable with taking this apart and it can be done in 20 minutes this is off my GM service DVD let me know if you want full instruction . hope this helps ithelped in mine
    --------------------------------------------------------
    Minimal Air Flow In Vent Position With Full Heat (Disable Temperature Sub-Damper Door) #03-01-38-013A - (Dec 9, 2003)
    Minimal Air Flow In Vent Position With Full Heat (Disable Temperature Sub-Damper Door)

    2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous
    2001-2003 Chevrolet Venture
    2001-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette
    2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek, Montana

    with Front Manual (RPO C60) or Front Manual with Auxiliary Temperature Controls (RPO CJ3) HVAC Systems only

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a lack of sufficient air flow from the instrument panel vents when the vent mode is selected and the temperature control is at full heat. Others may comment that the volume of hot air flow from the instrument panel vents may seem to be less than the air flow from the floor ducts.

    Correction
    Disable the temperature sub-damper door, located inside the air conditioning module, using the following procedure:
  • jdksjdks Posts: 42
    Can you please give us the full instruction - I have complained about this before to my dealer and they told me it was normal.... :sick:
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,291
    I believe this is the procedure (minus illustration):
    Disable the temperature sub-damper door, located inside the air conditioning module, using the following procedure:

    1. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and move the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) temperature control to the full cold position.

    2. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.

    3. Remove the instrument panel closeout/insulator panel.

    4. Remove the instrument panel compartment.

    Important: The mode door actuator described below may not be found on all vehicles. The actuator removal and replacement instructions are not necessary if this actuator is not present.

    5. Locate the mode door actuator on the passenger side of the HVAC module. Disconnect the actuator electrical connector. Remove the two actuator retaining screws and the mode door actuator.

    6. Remove the two screws that hold the mode door actuator mounting plate to the HVAC module. Remove the plate, exposing the mode door levers underneath. Refer to the illustration above for the location of the mode door levers.

    7. Locate the mode door lever, (1) in the illustration above. Remove the mode door lever by carefully lifting the lever locking tab and simultaneously prying outward at the base of the lever with a flat screwdriver. Be sure to pry as close as possible to the base of the shaft to prevent breakage of the lever.

    8. With the mode lever removed, swing the temperature sub-damper door lever (2) fully up. This opens the door fully on the inside of the HVAC module.

    9. The sub-damper door may vibrate or fall closed if not secured in place. To ensure that this does not happen, use a plastic tie-strap to ensure that the door is held in place.

    10. Loop a tie strap through the channel of the lever. Loop the tie-strap over the upper actuator attachment boss, making sure to also get the strap over the side ribs, as the side ribs are the locating feature for the actuator backing plate. Refer to the illustration above for location of the tie strap.

    11. Install the actuator mounting plate on the HVAC module. Make sure the plate is seated against the ribs on the mounting boss.

    12. Install the mode door actuator onto the actuator mounting plate.

    13. Start the vehicle and check the operation of the HVAC system mode doors and temperature controls.

    14. Install the instrument panel compartment.

    15. Install the instrument panel insulator/closeout panel.
  • those would be them its really easy esp considering the glove box has 2or 3 screws i think then you pop it out held in with those metal clips. heres pic of whaty youll see and do dont usually leave pics on my photobucket for long so let me know if i delete em to soon :)

    image
    image
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,312
    This kind of stuff would be great to park on your CarSpace page - just copy them to your album there.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jdksjdks Posts: 42
    Thank you guys for all the info.

    How do you remove the instrument panel (which one, the driver side or the center one) or can that be done from the glove compartment, there is a trap door there?
  • jdksjdks Posts: 42
    Thanks for the info again - I did manage to do the fix this weekend and everything is working - I finally have heat after 5 yrs!!!!
  • cruzakcruzak Posts: 11
    I need an advice from you guys. Im planning to put a full synthetic engine oil, is it advisable to my 05 rendezvous? If its ok, how often should I replace it? Does it affect my car warranty?
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    When my wife purchased her 2004 Rendezvous new off the dealer lot, the first thing I did when we got it home was change the oil. I put in Mobil 1 5W30, and have been using it ever since.

    I change the oil and filter every 5000 miles, regardless of what the oil life remaining information shows. It is usually around 40%. She just hit 40000 miles, and has no problems or leaks. It does not use any oil between changes.

    Any oil which meets or exceeds manufactory specifications will NOT void your warranty. Look in your owners manual, and you will find the specs for what grade and weight of oil to use.

    Since GM has a web site which allows owners and dealers to keep track of any maintenance or repairs done, I take advantage of that. I keep the web site up to date with what I maintain, and I also keep track using the owners manual service log.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,312
    I use oil that I get on sale, and change it around 7,500 miles on my van (just like my owner's manual says to). The wagon's manual says to change at 5,000, but I tend to let that slide a bit. I'm not cruising around in F-14's. :P

    Synthetic motor oil and Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 may be of interest.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • :) Glad that worked for you im curious how much buick would charge to do that. i know for me it took 30 minutes but i stopped for a bit since it was raining.
  • Hi There can you please show illustractions again. New to this site. having same issue. Thanks very much.
  • With all the things happening with my RDV I am getting a little paranoid. Left hand rear suspension is squeaking allot going over bumps and uneven road. You can here it sometimes inside with the radio and heater fan off. Now I know the car is 5 years old and I had this squeaking sound happening on some older cars I owned (75 dart), but I am not sure this car is not that old. I just had the rear ball joints replaced recently under recall and the rear spring does not appear to be broken (but I do have air adjustable suspension), but it might be. The car appears to be sitting normal. And it is not rear bearings I know that sound. Does anyone have an idea or a this point do I need to worry about it?

    James :confuse: :confuse:
  • I may have answered my own question, however can someone corroborate this. Could the squeaky sound be attributed to the rear control arm bushings (this appears to be a common thing on honda civics). It is nothing serious, but annoying sound. Appears this can only be attributed to inferior manufacturing once again by GM.

    James :sick:
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    Let's see, your driving a 5 year old vehicle, just had the rear suspension torn apart, and now something is squeaky. Perhaps instead of "Inferior manufacturing once again by GM" it could be caused by lack of maintenance. Have you regulary done the reguired maintenance? Do you know what is supposed to be done? How often?

    Honda must use the same inferior manufacturing on their Honda Civic according to your thinking.
  • As I said inferior manufacturing. I have had over 20 repairs done on this vehicle under warranty. There is a class action law suite due to faulty intake manifold gasket (poor manufacturing by GM for the past 10 years). This is my first GM vehicle, what else can I think but poor quality in manufacturing. I believe the product speaks for itself. There is no general maintenance to be performed on the rear end of the vehicle (just where and tear) Poor quality ball joints (which could cause a safety concern was replaced by GM (again poor quality), poor quality in wheel bearings (that should last the life of the vehicle) that wear out after 35,000 km. I think this forum speaks to the quality on how GM made the RDV. This forum is to help owners with issues. If you have no suggestions to contribute to our maintenance woes please post somewhere else, because it appears you have no issues with your GM vehicle. I made a suggestion on the bushings (which in most cases should last the life of the vehicle). I am venting a bit as most owners do when we get stuck with a lemon and there appears to be allot of us.

    Excuse me for being human

    James :mad:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    please post somewhere else

    There's always the scroll bar over to the right in one's browser ...! ;)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jablonsajablonsa Posts: 13
    Well sounds like you work for GM. Because no other person would be soo ignorant to the major problems with the RVD. not to mention the dozens of minor problems that no one even mentions on this forum because they are too concerned about the major things. Oh. maybe by regular maintenance you meant to say the weekly major repair. Because thats been my experience. other than worrying about the high risk a Head basket will blow, or the transmission will crumble, or the wheel bearings will go, the hood will rust, or the heater core will become punctured by a bolt thats sticking out too far... i love the car. I guess GM got me with the look, and spacey interior for my freakish long legs. lol. oh ya. im talking about the 2003 and earlier as some of the things i have mentioned have been redesigned in the later models.

    A car, any car should run with no major problems for 100-150k. this car only goes about 40k. meaning POOR Quality, i meant to say non existent, the steering column being smaller than it should have been, thats just inexcusable. so is the heater core bold issue and the head gasket. Also this being a sort of SUV the suspension should be up to SUV standards. i heard some horror stories about driving over speed bumps. well ill have to leave it at that. i dont know what else to say with out getting banned for profanity.

    I could really turn GM around with my ideas. I have been waiting ages for the GM aura to finally burst peoples hypnosis with them and see the light. i just hope GM sees the light too and realizes the hole they dug themselves into.

    jpierce good luck with your car. I hope you get it to work for you. Im just waiting for the summer to get under the hood and see what kind of a mess i have to deal with here.
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