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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • leevandam1leevandam1 Posts: 28
    ok lets start.... in the garage I start the car.... then shift into reverse then quickly shift into drive. or just shift from forward to reverse and visa-versa... I hear this "clunk" as an old timer I would say it sound like a bad U-joint. Have had a checked by two shops, one dealer. ]Both say not to worry... if sorta to be expected in a four wheel drive... IS THAT SO? The dealer had no shop notes on the situation... and the drive train shop said their puter said not to bother with it.... and would give no reason....... ANYONE HAD A LIKE PROBLEM, and what did you do about it? Please help.......................................Thanks.....
  • azdougazdoug Posts: 9
    well another bcm gone south. replaced one off ebay and it had problems the original didnt. a/c stopped working,,mech said replace bcm, the one i have now radio is locked service engine light is on. my question, who is a good source to buy a bcm.from can any rendezvous bcm be used? hoping anything other than a 2002 must be better.can replacements purchased be preprogrammed to vin? i have zero faith in my local dealer so want to avoid using them if possible, no other dealer around for 200miles. i have searched but no luck in finding someone that rebuilds these things or sells replacements
  • HELP! Very odd rattling noise from I believe under the front left portion of the vehicle. Only happens when I start the car and am idling or leaving my driveway in reverse at slow speeds. After this, the noise disappears. Very happy owner of a 2003 RDV CX! HELP!
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    The most common culprits for rattles at idle are either the heat shields along the exhaust, or plastic trim pieces like the wheel well liners or the splash guard under the radiator area.
    Do you have ramps or know someone who does? Drive the car up on the ramps, put in park, set the parking brake. Then slide under to find the rattle. If you don't have ramps - since the Rendezvous is a fairly tall crossover you can still probably climb under the front corner and get a good idea where it's coming from.

    Should be a very easy fix once you find the exact spot.
  • ladyluvz0ladyluvz0 Posts: 3
    this happened to me a few months back was loosing antifreeze and never seen it on the ground it is your lower intake gasket... very costly too fix but i read in are local newspaper a month ago so many ppl are having this problem now there is a law suit going after gm to pay for it and thye will as long as you contact them and have a receipt hope this helps.
  • ladyluvz0ladyluvz0 Posts: 3
    when u replaced the anti theft senser was there a beeping noise coming from the driver side inside the vehicle?? i have this beeping going on and cant figure it out.. thanks
  • I found your message searching for information about my 2006 Rendezvous with 41,000 miles on it. I have the same problem, I mentioned the torque converter, but the dealer said that it is not the problem and do not know what is wrong with it. I am so disappointed in the CUV. When my wife and I bought it we thought we were getting a great car. The Rendezvous makes the 3rd Buick we own, as of right now we have a 2002 Park Avenue and a 1998 Century, never had any problems with the other 2 Buicks like we have with the Rendezvous. :sick:
  • ladyluvz0ladyluvz0 Posts: 3
    was curious i have a 2002 Rendevous and have had alot of same problems fixed as others but this one has me stumped and dealer wants 80.00 to just look at it.. the noise is 2 diff tones and beeps fast and slow and is coming from inside on driver side up by the speaker..was thinkin it might be ant theft breaking maybe but its a diff sound of beep then the alarm and the dinging the car makes when keys are in and door is open .. Any help will be great.. thanks
  • My 2006 Rendezvous has been in the shop for 3 days, the dealer finally decided that the TCC Solenoid needed to be replaced along with the harness and gaskets. Everything seems to be ok, the car shifts better than it did before, I guess the real test will be when we go out of town on Saturday. Everything was replaced under warranty. I think it pays to have the extended warranty in my opinion! :shades:
  • ajmthomasajmthomas Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Was your moaning sound in the front or rear? Mine is sound like it is in the front. My mechanic has said it is the rack-n-pinion (sp?), but it hasn't fixed the problem. So, $1300 later I stil have it. This will be 4th time I've taken it back for them to look at. (Fortunately, they are not charging me any more.)
  • cassandrajcassandraj Posts: 16
    Hello, When my left wheel barring was going out it was not moaning it sounded like something breaking once in a while and had a little bit of a dragging effect on the vehicle even brought down the gas mileage slightly. However, I recently had my powersteering fluid spring a leak from the pump. When this pump was replaced I had a moaning in it for a while. The mechanic told me that sometimes the new pumps they put in the car get a bubble of air in them and there is almost no way to get it out other than to replace the pump again. I wish you luck!
  • Can anyone tell me about the rear hatch recall on the Buick Rendezvous?
    My friend has a problem with theirs in that it will not open - it is stuck shut.
  • h2oaquadogh2oaquadog Posts: 11
    The recall was I believe about there being an issue with the latch gate if the car was in a accident. It had nothing to do with it not opening or shutting on an everyday basis. I know this because my trunk also broke and would not open (while trying to unload bags at an airport!). Sometimes if you give it a day or to, not hitting the release key it will open again, if not, it was about 175$ to have the lock replaced on it.
  • hydrochiefhydrochief Posts: 15
    :lemon: 2003 CXL, made two long trips from VA to NY and back. Both times the service engine light came on, but only after a couple hundred miles. The owners manual says this light has to do with emmissions though!

    Two days after this last trip, with no eng lights on, I took a hard u-turn through a dip, then heard a loud banging. A couple buddies took the oil pan loose (can't find info on how to get it off :mad: ) and discovered the #5 and #6 piston bearings are shot.

    So I need a lower end rebuild; or drop in either a long or short block motor. :cry:

    Anyone else had this problem? I couldn't find it through a search of the board.

    Any advice as to which would be the best route, and why you think so?
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    If I remember correctly, the 2003 RDV came with the 3.4L engine. In a FWD model, the 3.4L engine does very well. Very well for the overall body weight and wind drag of the RDV design. My wife (and I) are very pleased with the available power of our 2003 FWD RDV. For our needs, more then enough power under its hood. Unfortunately, the 3.4L engine in the 2002 and many 2003 years had inexpensive intake gaskets. Thus, Intake gasket leaks. If you decide to pull its engine, rebuild its bottom end, do remember to replace its Intake Gasket and Head Gaskets as well. When repacing gaskets, do "plane the heads" to remove any unwanted warps. Thus, creating a much better gasket seal. If doing this repair yuorself, do ensure you use the much better 3.4L Intake gaskets.

    If you have an AWD verson of the 2003, the factory 3.4L engine may feel "gutless" to you. In the newer years, Buik started using the 3.5 and 3.6L engines - due to large number of AWD folks complaining about "lack of power" under the hood.

    Bottom line is.... Only you can decide to rebuild its existing 2003 RDV engine or replace with an engine that has more power. Or, trade your 2003 model in for a newer 3.6L AWD model.

    Hope this helps - some how...

    .
  • sfcpetedsfcpeted Posts: 1
    I agree with you h2oaquadog. I have a 2003 and it has been nothing but an electrical nightmare. I bought it 2 years ago with 20k, since that time I have replaced intake gaskets, fuel pump, electronic module under seat that controls fuel pump, bcm, window motor, sun roof module, and now the ebcm. I have been in contact with GM and the dealership and they both basically told me that because I have 88k on it they wouldn't do a thing for me. Anyone priced an ebcm=over 700$$. Ive sunk over 3 grand into a supposidly solid car, it may not be lemon by definition but it is in my book. Plus if gm has sold so many that are not, then why all the common problems on this forum. All they have to do is fix them.
  • Ours has the same problem and we have taken it to three different Buick dealerships in out area, tri-cities WA. Have had it towed in several times and they tell me they can't find the problem. But they gladly took my $100.00 for computer work. All told me nothing was wrong but the car overheats and will not start. Humm....
  • cor1580cor1580 Posts: 1
    If you have the AWD system the moaning is caused from the traction control.... when you turn a corner the outter most wheel spins more telling the system to put power to the inside wheel (thats its loosin traction) I have 19" wheels on mine and this made the sound lil more pronounced... but was reassured that its meant to do this.
  • exhaustedexhausted Posts: 21
    '02 rdz CXL AWD 300k KM (186k Miles)
    moaning noise in rear was torque tube @ 150k now needs replacing again @ 300k.
  • kate29kate29 Posts: 1
    Sometimes it will not turn on, tries to turn over, but doesn't get gas. This has been happening more frequently and we are unsure what the problem is. My guess is the connection from the fuel pump not getting gas to start up.

    - we have replaced the pump-and it stilll starts and than stalls- have you had your proble answered yet? Can you help us?
    Please reply
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    Research the C-305 connection which causes problems such as yours. I believe it is located in the area under the driver's seat and beneath the carpet. Many problems have been caused by the wires in that connector not making good contact, corrosion, or the wires having pulled out of the connector.

    The fuel pump circuit gets routed through this connection. I would also check your fuel pressure regulator to make sure that is not faulty.
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    The following was copied from a Google search

    GM

    Starting problems, various electrical gremlins. Drivers of some 200006 GM minivans (full list below) may come into your shop complaining of some really strange symptoms. Among the comments you might get is that the engine won't start, starts with difficulty or stalls. The starting troubles may be accompanied by an inoperative or out-of-whack fuel gauge. In addition, the MIL and the ABS and/or TCS warning lights may be illuminated. The TCS system may have a mind of its own, activating in dry conditions. Finally, Service Traction System and/or All-Wheel Drive Disable messages may be displayed on the dash. To put the icing on the cake, all these symptoms can come and go, leaving behind multiple DTCs in the process.

    Veteran techs know that unrelated electrical gremlins like these usually have their origin in either one of two maladies: a bad ground or an intermittent connector. In this case, it's the latter-more specifically, connector C305. You can find this connector on the floor, just to the rear of the driver's seat. And what you'll probably see is that it's either corroded or has spread female terminals.

    How you approach the repair depends on what you find. If the connector is corroded, water is getting into the vehicle from somewhere. Find and fix the leak first, then replace the connector. If there's no evidence of corrosion, GM warns not to try to repair the spread female terminals. Instead, replace them with parts from a terminal repair kit.

    The following vehicles are susceptible to the starting and electrical problems described:

    2000-04 Olds Silhouettes

    2000-05 Chevy Ventures and Pontiac Montanas

    2001-05 Pontiac Azteks

    2002-06 Buick Rendezvous

    2005-06 Buick Terrazas, Chevy Uplanders and Pontlac Montana SV6s
  • I have a 2006 buick Rendezvous. The gas guage is very inacurate especially from 1/2 tank to empty. I have been to the dealer 5 times, 3 sending units, a cluster and a reprogram. Now they want to tell me this is normal. If so why did they throw all these parts at it. Anyone had this problem and get it fixed? :mad:
  • crudcrud Posts: 5
    I have a 2004....same problem. I noticed it when the vehicle was days old. TWICE, the dealer drained my tank and adjusted the mechanism that measures fuel levels. It was never fixed to my satisfaction. I gave up on it. The gauge shows low fuel when the vehicle is facing downhill, and just the opposite when facing up hill. I have owned many cars in my short life, and I have never seen this issue before. I guess have gotten used to it....I usually get 400 miles on one tank....that is my "accurate" gauge.
  • ealfordealford Posts: 15
    I have a 2005 RDV with the same problem and I have already had them replace the sensor and the instrument cluster which did no good. There is a tech. bulletin from GM on the 05',06 RDV's which states basically that there could be problems with the temp gauge and or the fuel gauge with erratic readings and there is no fix. It even says that the service people shouldn't replace the instrument cluster because that won't fix it. Buick says they are working on it but this has been a problem from 02' to 07' and unless more people complain and file suit, GM won't do anything about it. Look what it took for them to do something about the gaskets on the 2002's. Anyone who's car is still under warranty should seek justice through their state Lemon Laws. Because I bought my 05' used, even though it was still under warranty my state Lemon Law is unless. I would sure like to get a class action suit going
  • ealfordealford Posts: 15
    I have a 2005 RDV and the only connector even close to this location isn't inside the vehicle but under it and the connector is water proof. I have exhaustedly searched for it inside with no luck. As I said there is one at that location under the car.
  • chuckie2chuckie2 Posts: 16
    I have a 2004 and whenever I park on a hill, the gauge will read inaccuately...of course parked on a level surface the gauge reads fine....try parking your vehicle on a level surface...I think you're just looking for a problem when there is none. If the gauge does not right it self when level then you may have a problem....I have read many posts here and 80% are people who, A: don't take care of their vehicles, B: think the only thing you have to do is put gas in it and go....anything to bash American cars....no wonder our economy is in the "tank" (pun intended)
  • ealfordealford Posts: 15
    You obviously don't have a clue about what we are talking about in reference to the fuel gauge on the Buick RDV. I for one do all of my own maintenance on all of my vehicles including my 02' Dodge Ram Diesel and my 95' Harley. Did you not read my post about GM acknowledging the fact that there is a problem with the fuel gauge and they can't fix it? Get a grip Chuckie!!
  • Is your RDV an AWD? I have this problem with my 2002 AWD, but I know what it is with my car. If you have an AWD it could likely be the rear axle. It's a German part that needs to be flushed and lubed about every 30k. It costs about 250.00 to do it and if you put it off apparently the thing will break at a cost of 3k to replace it. The kind of noise it will make is a whinning noise (like wawawawa) every time you make a wide turn left or right at slow speeds. My problem that I have with my RDV is the A/C isn't working, it just blows air. Also my window control on my driver side doesn't work, my rear view mirror leaked and now is foggy permanently, I forever have my check engine light on (emission issues) and some of my lights on my dash are out, such as my odometer. I have no idea what else could be wrong with my car and frankly I don't want to know because I don't have the money to pay for it anyhow. :sick:
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    The C-305 connector does transistion from the outside of the vehicle to the inside behind/under the drivers seat. The problems others have had is corrosion inside the connectors (even though it is "waterproof") or pulled wires which are not making a good connection. One owner has taken numerous pictures of how he repaired the connections, the damage he found when he first took it apart, etc.

    If you live in an area of the country where you drive in snow and the resulting salt useage, you are more prone to have problems with this connector, or depending on the way it was built, problems with the pulled wires.
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