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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • If the ONLY thing I had put into this car was gas, I'd have 5,000 dollars in my pocket today.
  • Well, that noise is NOT right. I had this problem on my 2003 CXL and just had it repaired today and the sound is GONE! It is from the traction control in the rear. It must be flushed out 2 or three times by them. They flush it then they drive the car for 5 minutes in a left hand circle then 5 minutes in a right hand circle. Flush and do it again. This whole process is about $250...but if you don't do it, it will get worse and worse and when it fails its about $2500 to replace. The dealer should have a service bulliten on this (my dealer actually showed me the bulletin). My dealer at first said it was my power steering pump and they replaced that...to no avail. So then they looked it up and found the bulletin. Luckily they didn't charge me for it as I had already paid for a unneeded power steering pump so it was a wash for me.
  • woopswoops Posts: 2
    I just purchased a used 2002 Rendezvous( I swear I did not know they are lemons) and I want to clean the cooling system and install new coolant,but I need to know where the bleeders are located to purge the air out of the system. :sick: THANKS
  • ealfordealford Posts: 15
    As far as I know you only have to drain the radiator, flush, (with engine running and up to temperature) and refill with some antifreeze other than the bad stuff that GM uses. Don't worry about air in the system it will purge itself.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,269
    I believe there is 2 bleed screws for the coolant system. I just don't know where they are :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Draining and Filling Cooling System

    Draining Procedure

    Important: Do NOT add any engine coolant supplement sealant pellets to the cooling system. Drain and refill the engine cooling system every 5 years or 240 000 km, (150,000 ml) , whichever occurs first.

    1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
    2. Remove and clean the coolant recovery reservoir. Caution: To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if radiator cap or surge tank cap its removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.

    3. Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool:

    3.1. Slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise to the detention tab. Do not press down while rotating pressure cap.
    3.2. Wait until any residual pressure, indicated by a hissing sound, is relieved.
    3.3. After all hissing stops, press down on the radiator cap and rotate the cap counterclockwise in order to remove the cap.

    Important: Recover and store used coolant in a used coolant holding tank and submit the used coolant for recycling on a regular basis. Do NOT pour used coolant down the drain. Ethylene glycol antifreeze is very toxic. Disposing of ethylene glycol into the sewer system or ground water is both illegal and ecologically unsound.

    4. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain cock in order to collect all of the used coolant.

    5. Open the radiator drain cock. If only partial cooling system draining is required, drain enough coolant to perform the procedure.

    6. Open the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing 2 full turns.

    7. Open the air bleed valve above coolant pump 2 full turns.
    8. Place a drain pan under the engine block drains in order to collect the used coolant. Important: Allow the coolant to drain completely.

    9. Remove both of the engine block drains.

    o The front left engine block drain is located between the starter motor and the engine oil filter.
    o The rear right engine block drain is located near the crankshaft position sensor.

    Filling Procedure

    1. Reinstall the engine block drains.

    2. Close the radiator drain cock.
    3. Install the coolant recovery reservoir. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner; at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
    4. Slowly add a 50/50 mixture of GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) and clean, drinkable water to the radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.
    5. Wait for 2 minutes and reinspect the level of the coolant in the radiator. If necessary, add coolant to the radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.

    6. Install the radiator cap.

    7. Ensure that the radiator cap arrow points toward the radiator overflow tube.

    8. Close the air bleed valve above the coolant pump.Important: The air bleed valves are brass. Do NOT over-tighten the air bleed valves.

    9. Close the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing.
    10. Fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) and clean, drinkable water. Important: If the coolant temperature indicator turns ON, turn the engine OFF immediately and allow the engine to cool. Do NOT remove the radiator cap.
    11. Start the engine and allow the engine cooling fan to cycle on and off 3 times.
    12. Turn off the ignition. Caution: To avoid being, burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if radiator cap or surge tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
    13. Allow the engine to Cool.
    14. Ensure that the engine coolant concentration is sufficient.

    Mr. Shiftright
    VISITING HOST

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • my rear bumper sensors have stopped working, any ideas how to fix them, is there a fuse or something easy I could do? thanks
  • I have a 2005 CXL that has had 3 new power steering pumps put in it and it continues to make the same noise each time they put a new one in. They keep insisting it is the power steering pump but have not been able to fix the problem. So far they are saying the pumps are defective. What is the bulletin you referred to on your car?
  • I can't believe Buick will put their name behind a car that is such a piece a crap and they are not willing to fix the problems that are obviously an issue with the make and year of the car. I have had to disable the AWD or it would have cost more then $3200, the wheel bearings have had to be replaced, AC compressor, AC condenser, gasket repairs, and now I am trying to figure out why all of a sudden I have to jump my car every time I try to start it. The second the car is turned off everything goes dead. EVERYTHING. Once it is started it seems to be fine but I noticed something strange and it only happens every now and then but when I push the window buttons up every once in a while the battery light comes on and everything flashes and now my gas gauge does not work. (I hate my car) If anyone has had any similar experiences I would love to know what you had to do to fix it.
  • OK here it is:
    06-04-114-001A MAY 06 Drivetrain - Moan/Groan Noise From Rear Differential

    Now, here is a site that lists all the bulletins (don't panic when you see it!):

    http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/82/038201gn.html

    This is a list of the Buick Rendezvous bullitens. To actually see them, you have to pay a fee (which I have not done), but usually just seeing the title gives you an idea of whether or not Buick has seen your particular problem before. It amazes me that Buick dealer/service doesn't seem to have the initiative to look this stuff up themselves. I got an unneeded fuel pump too!
  • Sounds like the BCM (Body Control Module) is shot. This runs $600-800 depending (mine was 600 but I've seen others on this forum say they paid about $800). My symptoms were similar: radio and CD player going at the same time, all sorts of relays clicking, mirrors ramdomly moving all around, battery going dead within about 45 minutes after parking my car - every time. You really have no choice but to get a new BCM. I wonder if leaving a cel phone charger plugged in all the time can cause this? I don't know - but I don't leave mine plugged in any more just in case. Anyone know if this is a possibility??
  • The fuel filter on my 2005 Rendezvous is inside the fuel pump assembly which is located in the fuel tank.
  • Hello All,

    As you all , will soon find out (by the way i talk and type) I am new to this, Hell I mean I have never done any sort of "post" or Forum thingie!!! here goes

    Stats- "02 BuicK Rend. CXL AWD-miles @150,000 (honestly)

    Issues- Already done the intake BS, I have done brakes all the way around,of course tires, as well as regular maintance (I have done all except intake, i let a shop do it...i had no time, got in car, ran to FL from OH)

    NOW- I have been through AWD DIsable/anit-lock brakes signal on dash, found out that,string ripped the wiring apart. was able to re-install the wiring, took care of issue!, (yesterday) HOWEVER- I have been hearing some nasty noise up front, driver side. some what of a gearing, grinding noise. I know that it is not the engine, I have took apart the front wheel Asm. the wheel bearing seems fine, no cracks in seal, no wobbles! I know that the faster the car goes the louder the noise gets! It seems to me that it has to be related to either the bearing, the CV shaft (which all good, not even a crack in them) maybe the rack-n-pion?? or maybe the gear box next to tranny? (frt gearing? it is full and the oil look good!)

    I have been a damn good wrench at home. Fixed many cars, this issue is making me nuts, 'cause i can not locate the real issue, the shops around here, want too much just to "look at it"

    any help wopuld be awesome!! ???
    PLS!!

    ( I can say this, other then what i have said above, my wife has not had any other issue with the car, actaully she loves it. ride good, plenty of room, plus I can say, after going through the "forum" thingie, and reading so many issues that forks are having, or had, had before........I feel very lucky, and greatfull!)

    Tanx
    Tom
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    You may have to bite the bullet and get this thing up on a rack and run it, to isolate the noise. I mean, what could 15 minutes of rack time cost in your area? The problem is that driveline noises transmit along the drivetrain and it's very hard to locate from the driver's seat. Did you actually pull the bearing out, wash it and examine it? And the race it runs in?

    How about draining some oil from the transaxle and looking for debris?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,269
    Typicly I believe if its a front whel bearing issue the noise would change a bit while turning one way or another, do you notice that at all? With mine (Pontiac version) when the front bearings were bad the noise seemed to go away at highway speeds.

    As Mr Shifty eluded to, it can be difficult to diagnose from inside the cabin. Agin in my case when a rear bearing was having issues, the noise would be worse as speed increased in general. In addition the noise would go away (or lesson) ahen going over a bump (and load taken off) and would be MORE noticable when taking high speed turn (such as taking a tight exit ramp off highway)
  • I have been looking into shop time around the area. i my self have had this up in the air, but really was unable to make the same noise. but did not run at any real spped though. I will get under it today and check the trans/axle. as well as make a full inspection of the frt/lft wheel bearing.

    thank you
  • yes, checked Mr shifty, and replyed, 2071.....
    as to what you mentioned, my noise, at first it did not come on till aprox. 25 mph...from the point, it would get a bit louder as the mph went up...all the way up! as of now, it comes on right from the start, (about5mph) and goes up from there acordly with mph. I can say that from about 50-80 the noise id about the same, LOUD! just maybe, a bit louder on the highr mph, but you can not tell that much diff..

    thank you, as siad before, will have it up, and check the trans/axle fluids...TODAY! and get back to you all...

    again, thank you.

    I am actaully happy to see some fairly desent advise, from folks you just dont know. yes, i know that i should be more "in-tuned" with these computers/net...but to me, it is just not right. to spend so much time as i have heard of others doing on them, is actaully mind-numbing.
    again, thank you.
  • Do you work for Buick? By strictest definition, the Buick Rendezvous does not qualify as a lemon. BUT, I do think it is very suspect that the Buick Rendezvous has a large number or threads in this forum AND if you look at each one of those threads, you will see complaints of the same problems occur over and over. Some of these occured within the first year of ownership. You start to see the pattern and you start to see the problem. I am happy for you that you have a virtually problem free vehicle. But for the thousands of others who spent $30,000 or more on this car plus the outrageous repairs (sometimes two and three times for the same repair), I'd say we have a right to call this car a lemon or anything else we want to call it. And if you are one of those like me who found out just what this vehicle is worth at trade in, I'd say sour a great description.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I do think it is very suspect that the Buick Rendezvous has a large number or threads in this forum...

    I think that is a bit of stretch. We have 52 active discussions dedicated to the Rendezvous and fewer than half of those deal with specific problems. More importantly, those "problem" topics average far fewer than 10 postings each.

    As to the frequency of postings in a vehicle specific maintenance and repair topic, that is much more a reflection of the relative number of people who own a particular make and model as well as how long the vehicle specific M&R discussion has been around. The Rendezvous M&R discussion has been around a VERY long time! :)

    That is not to say that problems don't exist or that they aren't serious. It only means that it is not valid to make generalizations about a vehicle's reliability based solely on the number of threads in a Forum dedicated to discussing problems.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • It is valid to make generalizations about a vehicle's reliability when there are so many problems with it and when GM acknowledges a problem and doesn't do anything about it ie; the fuel gauge problems experienced with the 2004-2005 Rendezvous. The reason there are so many posts is because there are so many people dissatisfied with their cars.
  • I know this at the end of February 2009 I will get rid of the POS and Never, Never buy another GM product. They did not stand by their product and as of today I have spent over $3,500 for repairs to a vehicle that has never been in an accident. Uggghhhh. Oh by the way the heater stopped working this morning. :(
  • ok...still have not been to shop yet.....extremely crazy past few days! however, I can say that I did get under and check the trans axle fluid level, which is "a-ok". I can hear that the noises, seem to come from the drivers side, or at least it is louder on that side, per right side. now, I did take a test drive a little....well, at least get out of house away from ...PMS wifey....when you get to hwy speed, it is loud and seems to come from the front, left......now, I can feel this in the steering wheel. I can say, if you turn a little to the left, as to change lanes, it is louder....now, if you are changeing lanes to the other side, it seems to get less as loud, or even calm down a little....this is why at first I thought I might have a steering issue, but the pump is full, and it does not have the regular signs, for a steering pump.

    like i have said, this is a hard one for me to grasp. I guess i need to break down and found a place to get it in, have them take a look. just hate that, becouse, for some reason, they tend to find things wrong that are not......been there, not doing again!

    see ya
  • Good day,

    I am also a new owner of a used Buick RDV 2003.
    I'm experiencing little problems... I'm wondering if you tell me all of the problems you encountered. I may have the same problems. First, the T/C light with a little wrench beside it lit in the middle of the dashboard. Second, the ABS light came on. Third, a light with a little truck with a wrench. Can you give me hints on what articles I can read to find my solutions?

    Regards,
    GUY
  • OK, I do have the wheel bearing going bad....driver frt.

    I now have it up on jacks, all apart....cleaned, and ready with new bearing hub....
    my issue is this, what are the torq specs for the three bolts that hold the bearing on, as well as the huge "hub nut"....does anyone have this info,

    Or can anyone give me a desent range to be in. I know old school always was, for the huge hub nut, was torq down good, then back off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.....

    not to sure if that will work right on these, which are different!

    any help is awesome

    tanx
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,269
    I don't know what the specs are, but The 3 bolts I believe are torqued to yield (meaning I believe just short of breaking, and new ones should be used, not the old ones)
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    Just looked in my factory manuals for my wife's 2004 Rendezvous. Your specs should be the same, since no changes were made to the front end assembly pieces of the wheel.

    The three bolts should be replaced with new ones, since like the previous post mentioned, they are designed to stretch only once, that being the original installation of them. However, I have reused those bolts with no problem. They get torqued to 96 Ft Lbs (130-N-m).

    The wheel hub locking nut gets torqued to 192 Ft Lbs (260 N-m). If you don't have a torque wrench that large, some auto part stores will "loan" you one if you leave a deposit which is refunded when you return the tool. Auto Zone or one of the large chain stores do that.

    When you install the new wheel spindle nut, the two washers have a "ramped" side. They must face each other. Hope this helps.
  • So I fell for the trap and bought an 02 cxl about a year or so ago. I was told that it had already had several things replaced on it and I guess this should have been a clue. We really love the car but the repair is getting expensive.

    Ok, so we have a new BCM to install, I have found the basic how to on removing the BCM but here is the problem. I cannot remove the fuse box that the BCM is attached to. Does anyone know how much of the console needs to be removed? I can't find a repair manual anywhere in town and we really need this car running again.

    Thanks, Stephen.
  • My shop manual tells you to remove the Front floor console (center console), 4 bolts.
    To remove the Junction Block (fuse box):
    1. Disconnect the BCM electrical connectors (3) at the top.
    2. Disconnect the console accessory wiring junction block electrical connectors (2). Looks like they are held on with allen head bolts, it says when reinstalling bolts, finger tight first then tighten to 54 lb in.
    3. Release the (2) retainers on the sides.
    4. Finally, Remove the console accessory wiring junction block out of the bracket.
    5. Now you should be able to access the retaining lever for the BCM. Looks like a little hockey stick.

    Good luck, I have an 2002 cx I Just purchased (afraid after reading all these forums) and found the shop manuals on ebay. They seem like the will be extremely helpful. Just did a thermostat on it. Kind of a pain, manual says to remove exhaust manifold crossover (no way), i was able to get it without doing that.
    Let me know if you need scans of the instructions and I can email it to ya.
    Anthony
  • If I could get scans that would be awesome. This is really getting the best of me. Thank you very much for the reply. Also, what did you look for on ebay to find the shop manuals. This might really come in handy.
  • Check engine light came on and I'm getting the following code

    P0135
    HEATER CKT MALF
    BANK 1 SENSOR1

    Any one know which sensor it's referring to and it's location?
    Car seems to be working just fine.

    Thanks
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