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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi, just wanted to get some feedback on my 2006 Buick Rendezvous Fan / Blower motor problem. I will list in detail what I tried so far.

    1. Last week the blower fan died speeds 1-5 and I saw the fuse was blown. I went to the store & got some new 25A fuses, put one in and the fan started to work again but only on speed 5.
    2. I googled this information and read it might be the blower motor resistor, I got the part for $35 from autozone and watched a youtube video of changing this on a chevy, so I did it myself. (the old resistor was discolored & actaully could see a soldered connection on the metal part was melted off.)
    3. After the new blower motor resistor was installed, putting the blower back in etc., I put a new fuse in & started the car. As soon as I went to fan speed 1 the fuse blew in the car. I made sure the A/C was off. I put another fuse in and started the car with the fan on speed 5. it ran and as soon as I changed the speed to 4, the fuse blew again.
    4. I looked up more online and though maybe the blower motor itself was bad.
    I disconnected the blower motor connection, and I could turn the AC off and on, or any dial position speed w/o the fuse blowing, so now I thought it was the blower motor.
    I bought a new one for $92 at autozone and decided to hook it up to the connection, holding it under the dash w/o installing it and started the car. As soon as turning the fan to speed 1, the fuse blew again.

    SO.....at this point I am at a loss. I was hoping changing these parts would correct the problem, but it hasn't. I am not an electrician, so don't know how to diagnose wire problems.

    Before heading to the mechanic I was hoping to get some advice on this, from anyone who knows. :confuse:
    Thanks!!
  • smag73smag73 Posts: 1
    I'm having issues with my 2006 Rendezvous that the dealership has been unable to solve. The gas cap light was coming on intermittently, and then the service engine soon lamp came on. Took it to the dealership, code came up for some kind of vapor leak, so they replaced the gas cap. A few days later the light came on again. Car went back to the dealership, but they say no code is coming up for it now.

    In addition, I have an intermittent problem, especially when accelerating, where the battery light will come on, all of the alert lights on the dashboard will flash off & on and it will make a dinging noise for a few seconds. Then the AWD disable lamp comes on. Sometimes it will go back off when I come to a complete stop, but not always. Sometimes the battery light will alternate a few times with the ADW disable light before it stays on the AWD disable light.

    Recently, my battery also died when I left the radio on for an hour or two. Previsouly I've done this with no problem (we have a drive-in movie theater nearby where the sound is broadcast over the radio, and we've watched movies there in this vehicle with no battery problems). I was able to get it jump started.

    The delaership was unable to come up with anything for any of these issues. They did fix a loose battery cablewhen I had it back in the shop the other day, but did not find anything else. Within a day or two the gas cap lamp was back on (not constantly, it comes & goes) and the service engine soon light is back on. When getting on the highway earlier today, it also did the lights flashing / dinging, battery light, then AWD disable light thing again.

    I'm getting frustrated - there has to be a cause to all of this. Any ideas?
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,239
    Nice variety of troubles you have there :confuse: . Could be very difficult to diagnois. I would tend to lean towards battery /charging system issue for the general alert lights. Perhaps there is still a cable problem (if it starts and generaly runs ok I would check the fat cable that goes from battery to fuse box). Perhaps the battery is on its way out or perhaps the alternater is having intermitent issues. A rather long term charging system check may find that. The AWD disabled and gas cap could be due to the electrical system issue or potentialy an issue with c305 connector ( a pass through connector the deals with a bunch of stuff towards the rear of vehicle).
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,071
    How old is your battery? I'd replace it.

    A weak battery can drop voltage enough and the various computers quit operating at a voltage too low.
  • I have a 2004 Buick RVD with 48K miles on it. I found this forum as I was looking at cars to decide what I want to get next. I feel truly blessed after reading all the issues here,

    I've had NO problems at all with my car. I have only done oil changes, and fluid changes and tires, and one hose, that was getting old, as I have had the car since new, and it's now 7 years old.

    I'm looking for another SUV, only I HATE the looks of the Enclave, and also they took off standard features I have in mine. The only way to get the passenger and driver adjusting seats (up and down) Is to go all the way up to the Arcadia Denali, for about $50K.

    Anyone had any suggestions on what you may have replaced your car with?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Hi.
    2007 RDV owner here. Very few problems like you, and we like it a lot.

    There isn't anything quite RDV sized in the market. Do you want to go slightly bigger or slightly smaller? For slightly smaller I would look at the GMC Terrain and Ford Edge. For slightly larger, since you don't like the Enclave, and you've checked the Acadia, take a look at the Chevrolet Traverse and also the new Ford Explorer. I know you may be thinking "I'm not looking at an Explorer" but the new design is very nicely done, attractive and good materials. As they say "you owe it to yourself to at least take a look". Good luck!
  • I have been having this problem with my 2007 Buick Rendezvous since it was brand new. I have had it in three different dealers and day after day of the car being in the shop and no one could find the problem. :sick: I even had a fire under the dash :surprise: where they found burnt wires.When I took it in I asked them to show me before they fixed it so I could see the damage but, they didn't and were sneaky to try to hide it. They called me back and told me it was done which kept me from taking pictures with it all opened up. Then they refused to give me the wires that they had to cut out and replaced. :mad: A year later the car is doing what it was doing just before it caught fire before. I wont even drive it on a trip across the desert for fear it might leave me on a desert road and kill me or my family. DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE CARS. DANGER. :lemon: I have all the documentation to prove it and will send it to anyone about my experience.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Smag73-

    Sorry to hear about your lemon.

    So, you said you were having "problems" and "even had a fire under the dash". What were the problems you had before the fire happened? What were your initial symptoms, so that we can try to help. Thanks.

    Brian
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,064
    rendezvousnot,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with GM Customer Assistance? If not please feel free to email me and we can discuss setting up a case for you. Enjoy your weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • resa07resa07 Posts: 1
    ok i have a 03 rondezvous i got it in 08 and ever since i have gotten it i have had nothing but problems first not even a month after getting it a tire came off the rim (minor to what would come!) then not even a year into having it i had to have the transmission rebuilt...there is 1600 dollars i didnt have then within 6 months of that the tranny went out again (made them re build it for free) luckily that has been ok since then (knock on wood!) then my spedomitor stopped working right it would go way up and stay up and you had to turn it on and off until it went back down...just now about 2 yrs later got that fixed. last summer my thermistat went out on it and of course how its built you cannot tell what the problem was and i live in iowa so you can imagin how fun winter and the rest of summer was. then this spring i had to go out and get new head gaskets because there was coolent going into my oil another 1200 dollars. a couple weeks after that i had a leak in my break line there was a nother 150 in repairs and now about a month ago i had to get a new pcm moduel because i wasnt getting power i thought it was the transmission again but no another diffrent issue by this time i was ready to just drive the POS into the mississippi because i also needed new back breaks and to get a new rear wheel bearing. and this is when i had to buy a whole new dash bored pretty much so i have a working spedomitor again. well that ran me another 1700 dollars that i dont have. and my latest thing is none of my windows will go down not even my sun roof my dad thinks its a fuse or something like that *fingers crossed* but honestly i got this car for just under 12k with everything and i pay 290 a month for it plus all the repairs i keep having not to mention still needing to fix my leaky sun roof... this is by far the worst car ever when it comes to repairs plus gas hog i cannot win! NEVER EVER let yourself or friends buy this car! nothing but problems!! and a money pit! i feel bad for anyone that buys one! :mad:
  • I just purchased a 2005 Buick Rendezvous with a steady "Security" light on. Everything works fine, but I asked about this light from the used car lot they said it was just because no key fobs were programmed. I purchased a new fob and could not get it to program. After much reading on the internet, I'm beginning to wonder if is a BCM problem. I went to the dealer, and they said it was going to be over $100 just to start diagnosing. I'm willing to put some time into this before opening the check book at the dealer. Also, of the two keys I received, neither one looks like a master. Both have "PK3" stamped at the base of the key. Any assistance would be appreciated. Also, I have tried the 10 min key on to clear, but the light never would go out. I've disconnected the battery for 20 min and reconnect; no joy. Also I've removed the BCM 10amp fuse and re-inserted with no luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,071
    I'll make the assumption the key system is the same as my leSabre's. It also uses a PK3 key.

    The keys are programmable into the list of 10 acceptable key entries by putting in an original key from the list, turning it to ON, then removing it and putting in the newly cut PK3 key. Turn it to ON for a second, and then turn to crank the engine and start.

    The key fobs must be programmed into the computer by a Tech II or other electronic device capable of accessing the computer. This will be hard to find outside of a dealer. There may be a local mechanic who has one products that can access the computer and handle the programming, but they are also going to charge--unless you have a friend with access to one.

    There may be some websites that list local companies that can do that for setting up your key fobs. But the dealer can check and program in a fob, that you conveniently buy from them!

    It may appear to cost more, but I think your best bet is to have a dealer check into this for you.
  • nlt99nlt99 Posts: 9
    Don't know if this will be of any help to you, but here are the instructions I used to program my new key fobs:

    There's a manual method of programming keyless entry transmitters also. Make sure that you have all the transmitters you want to be able to use handy because the system will have to "learn" each one, even if they already worked before. If you have the memory seat/radio/mirror option you'll need to program the remote for 'driver 1' first, then 'driver 2', then up to 2 others.

    1. Close the vehicle doors.

    2. Turn OFF the ignition.

    3. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.

    4. Press and hold the driver side door lock switch to the unlock position.

    5. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.)

    6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.)

    7. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.) Leave the ignition key in the ignition lock cylinder.

    8. Release the door lock switch. The body control module (BCM) will sound three beeps in order to verify the Program Mode has been activated.

    9. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless entry transmitter simultaneously for approximately 5 seconds . The BCM will sound two beeps in order to verify that the transmitter has been successfully programmed.

    10. Perform the previous step to program up to four transmitters.

    11. Remove the ignition key in order to exit the Program Mode.

    12. Verify the proper operation of each transmitter.

    Good luck! Nick
  • Thanks for the replies to my dilemma on the Rendezvous. I've tried the manual programming of the fob as described, but the BCM does not beep to signify that it has gone into programming mode. I'm starting to wonder, with a steady "Security" light, if a previous owner has installed a bypass of some kind. Looks like I need to start searching for a reputable dealer.
  • Hello, I'm a 2004 RDV owner. My car has right at 90k miles on it and I have NEVER had a problem with it - just regular oil changes and I'm on my 3rd set of tires. Yesterday I had it towed to the GM dealer because I couldn't get the key into the ignition - my guess was a broken lock cylinder or something with the ignition switch. Well, that was correct but guess what? They told me the cylinder lock/ignition switch is all part of the steering column and I have to replace the whole thing, to the tune of almost $1800 including the tow (3 miles) and the parts and labor. I cannot imagine that the parts are not separate for this type of thing. I'm just wondering if anyone has ever heard of this happening and that the whole steering column and ignition assembly is truly one part.

    The shop foreman told me he hasn't seen this happen but a couple times in the past 5 or 6 years; that its kind of a fluke thing to break. I'm still in shock but I have to repair it, as the car is worthless as a trade in if its not fixed.

    Thanks for any tips or comments.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Too bad there are dishonest dealers!! This makes me very mad and gives Buick a bad name, but it's the dealers fault.

    http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1469G-Ignition-Lock-Cylinder/dp/B001S7N4AC

    That is your part there. OEM Part # 15298923. You can most certainly replace just the bad ignition lock cylinder and its CHEAP ! I would go back to them with the printout and be polite, but firm, that they almost took you for $1800, that you are not happy, and that you want the work done at a discount or you will take it elsewhere. Even if you have to pay for another tow, that is far cheaper than letting them rip you off.
  • I have a 2006 AWD Rendezvous with 92000 miles! My extended GM warranty expires in about 3 weeks! I just had the car into the dealers for a checkup because the car was making grinding sounds when turning right or left! The replaced the front bushings on both sides and that helped a lot. However, it still makes a sqealing sound when you turn right or left but it doesn't seem like it is coming from the wheels. At about 45000 miles I had it in for noises in the differentials and all the did was replaced the fluid. Now that my warranty is almost up I want to make sure it is not my differentials that need attention! Thanks
  • I bought my 2002 Rendezvous brand new at the end of 2001. I put 185000 miles on it and have had every conceivable problem over the years. I really liked the car but I couldn't trust it any more. ( the intake gasket needed replacing for the second time) So I traded it in for a Honda CRV. I would have liked the chevy equinox but can't trust a GM product. Maybe ten years later they have improved, but it's too new to take a chance.
    Of the repair bills, I found I spent about $8000 on repairs.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,064
    ron44094,
    I would recommend asking the dealer to look into them. If you do not trust the dealer I would recommend a second opinion from a different GM dealer. Please keep me updated on your situation.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Ron,

    We had a similar problem. Have the dealer (or yourself) take the front wheels off. On the back of the brake rotor, there is a piece of sheet metal (probably used to protect the brake rotors and pads from rocks or branches.

    We had a similar problem with a "clicking" noise when turning and it was coming from the front wheels. I pulled these pieces of sheet metal away from the brake rotors, and the problem went away. Now every six months or so, after the sound returns, I bend the sheet metal away from the rotors and we're good for another six months or so.

    I hope this helps.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Mind sharing the list of repairs you had to do over 185,000 miles and their cost?
  • I have had my 07 Rendezvous for a year now. It was GM Certified when I bought it with 59k miles. I also had a 12,000 mile warranty. After I had it for about a week I noticed that it was having problems starting and then it would stall. It did it a few times and I brought it to the dealer. Well of course it would not do it when I brought it in so there was nothing they said they could do without the problem occurring in front of them. Well a year has gone by and the problem has gotten more frequent to the point today I had to try about six times to get it to start and then the battery went dead and I had to jump it. Has anyone else had the same problems? Could it be just a simple battery problem? I've read some posts that people have had similar problems with no luck at finding the problem/solution.
  • I had a similar problem with my 2002. It turned it was the crank timing sensor.
  • I would start with replacing the battery. My original battery did die around 60K. However, if that does not work; I had a Dodge years ago and the car would die at stop lights. That was the coil. I wish you luck. But the battery may be cheaper than 1 hour of labor. I would by a good one though and trade in your current battery.
  • I agree. My original battery became unreliable also at around 60,000. Any mechanic , even Sears or kmart auto, can run a quick test on your battery to see if its holding a charge properly or not. That's where to start.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,064
    queenbheather,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Were you planning on taking the vehicle back to the dealership? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I have a question about two different beeping noises. One is a single
    note and the other an double note. They seem to be about a minute
    apart and I can't see anything in the owner's manual which refers to
    sound alarms. There are no warning lights on the dash. Are these a
    sign of something serious? Or can I ignore them for a while until I
    can afford to have them investigated.
    Thanks for any help
    Ann Forrester
  • I just bought a used 2002 RDV CXL 3 months ago, it had 98k when purchased, now has 103k. A few issues I am having are, whining noises from the rear when making a tight turn. The drivers side heated seat(Leather) does not work. The side view mirrors do not adjust with the automatic adjusting pad, They will adjust upwards, but not downwards or to either sides(both mirrors have same issue). Also the memory seat feature will not allow me to save seat settings on either 1 or 2 but it will work with the reset last position button, so we just program my seating arrangement to it. The car does not beep or make noise when locking with key fob even though the settings are set for it to do so.

    I have noticed that the coolant needs replaced and a radiator flush is desperately needed as it's all gunky in the overflow container. The temp gauge runs a bit past the middle line, but does cool itself down pretty quickly. The gas gauge is a pain in the rear, once the tank is on half, it never gives off an accurate fuel amount, it's either full when it isn't or empty until I make a tight turn. Luckily I haven't ran out of gas yet ;)

    Passenger side window makes a crackling sound when it's rolled up or rolled down, thought to be dirt...but I'm not wagering on that theory. I didn't read reviews on the vehicle before I bought it. I had to get a large vehicle with 3rd row seats as we have 4 children at home and 2 in a different state who come to visit. I love my truck soooo much despite all the bad reviews and the fact that I might not be the lucky RDV owner that I thought I was lol. But any idea on what the problems may be?

    Also, this just started today. When I first bought the truck none of the cig lighter plugs worked, changed the fuse and they were fine. Today(3 months later) the fuse has been blowing again. I replaced it this morning, and within an hour the fuse was blown. We thought maybe it was the car charger as it's just a cheap universal one, took it out, fuse still blew. Thought it was the radar detector, unplugged it, fuse blew again. We haven't added any new things to it, just did an oil change, and changed out a fog light. My rear end is also uneven. We had a rear suspension spring fixed on pass side, the drivers side is still good so we left it alone. We also noticed the black rubber tubing around the self adjusting air suspension metal rod things behind rear tires are all eatin up, and the metal behind the rubber is rusted out. Do we need to replace air suspension? We have the built in air compressor which works fine, but scares the $^(&&*^* out of me when it runs lol

    Help anyone? I'm at my wits end. I'm okay with fixing it and i'm okay with always fixing something as I love my truck so much, but where do I start? My husband is pretty mechanically inclined, but I need to learn the in's and out's too. Thanks in advance. ~Tami~
  • The fuse problem was a simple fix. I found that my universal off brand phone charger must have had a short in it. I bought a new pack of 20amp fuses, and tested everything. When I plugged my cell into the charger POOF! Blew a fuse. Easy fix, just trashed the charger and no longer have that problem.

    I took my truck into a mechanic today, (I wont use a GM dealer because they OVER price everything). for the rear end noises, which after reading several threads, sounded like a rear diff problem. Most of the posters said the noises went away after refilling the rear diff, so I took the truck in to have the diff filled, and the mechanic is trying to tell me I need a whole new rear end. I'm not sure what to think of it actually. It could be the rear diff does just need fluid, but the dealer I bought the truck from did no repairs to anything at all. He did fix a rear spring that I noticed was broken into 2 pieces, but once he changed that spring my rear end became very un-even/lop-sided. The truck has a very obvious lean to the left(drivers side). I only notice the noise when making tight left hand turns, and mind you my air shocks are completely shot, in fact they may be the original shocks that the truck had put on during assembly.

    Could it be possible that the truck is moaning when making the left hand turns due to a substantial amount of weight bearing on the left hand side due to the lean? I'm wondering if fixing my shocks, driver side spring and filling the rear diff would help the noise. I'm thinking now that it may be a rear wheel bearing making noise due to the huge load put on it when turning into the lean? I hope that makes sense. I'm just wondering if this is a possibility or if I am really looking at a new rear end. I also have a slight wobble in the passenger rear tire, also wheel bearing? Or could it be just a simple balance issue? The moaning noise does happen when turning right, but it's not as noticeable. In fact I haven't noticed it but my husband says it's there.

    Anyways, that's whats going on so far...I think. I will be taking it in to a few more mechanics to have diagnostics ran to figure out if I really need a whole new rear end or not. As far as my mirrors, window, heated seats and memory seat goes...I have bigger fish to fry with this truck before those are dealt with, but I will keep everyone informed as I go!!!! BTW- I STILL love my truck :)
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,239
    For the gas guage problem it may very well be an issue with the c-305 connector (google gm c305 connector for more info).

    Moan or groan typicly at slow speeds from the rear could very well be either low on fluid (meaning there is a leak somewhere) or fluid just needs changing (via the 'proper' procedure).
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