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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • My 2005 Buick Rendezvous CXL's temperature gauge is erratic. It goes into the red and past the red while driving (no rhyme or reason to it) but the car is not overheating, no warning lights, the hood is cool to the touch, a/c works, heat works, no funny smells, noises or leaks that I can see - I'M LOST, PLEASE HELP and tell me it's a cheap fix :)
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,336
    Could be a number of things. First thing I would check is coolant level both in overflow bottle and radiator (check while engine is cooled off). If coolant is at proper level a thermostat that is sticky and not open as it should be may be the culprit or perhaps water pump.
  • clm51clm51 Posts: 9
    I had exactly the same problem with my temp gauge a year and a half ago. There was no way to tell if it was working or not. My auto repair guy said the only fix is to have it rebuilt. They don't make them for after market replacement any more since the car is no longer made. To get to it they have to take the whole front dash off and either send it off and you are without your car for up to 3 weeks or find someone who would travel to come fix it. That is what my mechanic was able to arrange. He knew someone 3 hours away who came and rebuilt mine and it took one day. The cost was over $700 but that was better than having to rent a car for 3 weeks. And now I'm having an issue with the AWD Disable light coming on. My mechanic first thought it was the rear differential, but turns out it something in the BCM and I had to take it 60 miles away to find someone who would work on it. Small service depts in small towns just will not work on some of the issues the Rendezvous has. But I love my car. Bought a second one used after my first one was totaled. Good luck.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,336
    Hhmm While the AWD disabled light could be BCM related, the more typical issues would be with a wheel speed sensor or wiring to them or perhaps an issue with the C305 connector ('google gm c305' for more info)
  • clm51clm51 Posts: 9
    Just got word yesterday that the solenoid that operates the pump which pumps the fluid into the rear differential has gone out. Also had some strange codes in the computer. Service dept said they had never had to order a new solenoid. And once replaced will still have to determine why it went out. Probably a wiring problem that will have to be fixed also. So the differential is OK and the pump is OK. Will be the middle of next week before I get it back. But am using a very good dealership with great service dept. Just didn't need this $1000+ expense on top of a major medical issue right now!
  • I have a 2006 Rendezvous that just turned 100,000 miles. I'm going to be doing a tune-up (plugs & wires) and want to know if the (very expensive) ignition coil should also be replaced. Thanks for your help.
  • No need to replace coils normally
  • Did u ever figure it out I've got the same issue with my 06
  • You need a new flow valve/sensor and the fluid needs to be drained and replaced. The part and fluid alone is expensive.
  • I followed these directions and the issue was resolved:
  • Thanks for the infro, I copied and pasted it to a word doc for future reference, thanks.
  • OK, long story short: I struck a small/medium sized animal on the highway the other night. The only damage was a broken air dam reflector. Anyway, I bought a replacement reflector for my '04 Rendezvous and decided to install it yesterday. Well, there are 4 screws that hold the original air dam reflector in place. That should be easy to remove and replace, right? Nope.

    I tried everything to get these screws to budge. From the looks of it, the screws go through the plastic deflector, then goes through metal. Needless to say, it's on there pretty securely and I tried everything to loosen those screws. Ratchet, wrench, vice grips, you name it.

    Has anyone here ever had to remove their air dam reflector? If so, how did you get it loose? Any help would be appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,534
    >If so, how did you get it loose?

    Do those "screws" appear to be plastic and sit in a small surround that looks like a washer?

    I bet they operate like pop rivets. You get a small thin screwdriver under the "head" and lift it. That allows the expanders on the end to collapse allowing the whole unit to pull back out of the plastic layers.
  • Thanks for the reply. No, the screws are metal. However, they do sit in a small surround that resembles a washer. Still, I did take your advice and tried a small screwdriver under the head and tried to lift. No dice. They won't budge. When I first looked at taking this thing off yesterday, i figured this would be an easy job. I had no idea these "screws" would be so pesky.
  • For those who need to remove their air dam deflector at some point: There are 4 screws that hold it together along with 2 plastic rivets. I pulled those off and they broke. Did not replace. Their not really necessary IMO. The 4 screws were 10 MM. Took 'em off, removed the broken part , and replaced with a new deflector. Not GM OEM, but a knockoff that works just as well. 58 bucks shipped. Job took about a half hour.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    I've replaced my air dam on my 2007. The 4 x 10mm screws are indeed metal and screw into metal. They are probably stuck due to being close to the road for years. Lots of water/dirt/corrosion. I can't remember off hand how much access is available to the back side of the screws. If you can get a steel/brass brush to clean the threads that would be step 1. Next spray the threads with PB Blaster - by the far the best penetrant. If you're used to WD40, this is a whole different level of penetrating power for breaking up corrosion. Soak from front and back with spray, then take a hammer and lightly tap the screw heads a few times each. This causes some stress on the corrosive bond and also allows the PB Blaster to get in deeper. Wait a couple hours before trying again, or until next day if the weather is dry and penetrant won't be washed off. They will probably back out with your ratchet now. If not, try a breaker bar but don't get too forceful. Better to spray a second time and wait and try again than break one and have to drill the stud and/or tap the hole bigger.

    I remember using a screwdriver and needle nose on the plastic clips you'll also have to remove, and not breaking them.

    Take it slow and you'll be as good as new.

    FWIW the OEM deflector was $90 at the dealership.
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