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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • jablonsajablonsa Posts: 13
    Im no expert in cars but this sort of sounds a little like what i experienced. basically the solution to get the knock out was to engage the parking break before taking the foot off the breaks while parking. than when your ready to go simply start the car shift into drive and take off the parking break while pressing the usual breaks. essentially what your trying to do is not let the car roll while its in the park position. Someone a while back mentioned this problem as well but he never got back to tell me if this solved the embarrassing clank. by the way after a week of using the parking break it becomes second nature, it also increases car security.
  • Thanks for the input. I also read that somewhere and have been using the parking brake every since. Your right it does become second nature, even though it hasn't cured the clank I still do it out of habbit now.
  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49

    I have several LEDs gone in my rear tail gate light as well. This is a sealed unit (since I took it off and had a look at it). In order to fix it, the whole unit needs to be replaced. The only thing I can figure is a junk yard or dealer. Let know how you fair out.

  • Hello, we are having the same problem. The nose of our hood on our 2003 Rendezvous is bubbling, supposedly due to oxidization according to the GM rep. My wife was told they will take care of it, however we must pay half ($211.00) which doesn't sound like a very good deal to me.

    Any ideas on how to get them to do it for free?

  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    GM has a 100000 mile warranty for corrosion, when the corrosion works its way from the inside out. I had the hood of a 2001 Alero replaced at 97000 miles by a GM body shop, with no cost to me. I also had a hood of a 1988 Corsica replaced with no cost to me around 90000 miles. Both had corrosion which bubbled through, from the inside out at the front of the hood.

    You might check with a different dealer, or show them the warranty which is printed in your warranty book, or maybe even in your owner's manual.
  • toonzeetoonzee Posts: 19
    I called 2 different dealers, they both wanted $99.00 just for the light, not counting labor. I could not find an after market light for the Buick...Has anyone else
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    Go to the web site I have posted a link to, and search for "Third Brake Light". I have found some for as low as $20.00. This site searches salvage yards, and you can search different distances, or even make a request for parts.
  • nidgenidge Posts: 18
    I think that I can tell you about the noise in the glove compartment. When the filter was removed by the service people, they broke the latch that keeps the filter door tight and free of rattling. They broke it just like I broke mine. Now, Krazy Glue comes to thr rescue.
  • tahoebctahoebc Posts: 6
    So my battery died a couple month's ago, it had just enough power that all the lights were going kinda going crazy on the dash. For some reason while it was doing this I ejected a cd from the player.

    Once I put the new battery in every thing worked great, except the CD player still thinks there a CD in the number 2 slot, the other 5 slots still have CD's in them.

    When I try to play a CD It trys to play CD #2 but fails. If I try and eject, it works a bit then askes me to remove the CD which I cannot.
    Is there anything I can do besides taking it to the Dealership?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,947
    Try some of the suggestions in the How to Remove a Stuck CD guide first. They are mostly geared to single CD players but you may get lucky (and they don't cost anything to try).
  • tahoebctahoebc Posts: 6
    Thanks for the link, tried all that stuff already, guess the computer thinks the disk is in there, when I hit load, say's "CD Player Full" when I hit Eject, say's remove disk but there's nothing to remove. Tried sticking old cd's in there and jiggling them around while it says to remove disk. Tried disconnecting the battery, thing is just to smart for it's own good :(
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,947
    Too bad. It may be cheaper to go with an aftermarket replacement than go to the dealer, or at least get a quote from a local shop if you have one.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    I would think cutting the power would have reset the radio. The radio probably retains memory power for a bit.

    How long was the battery disconnected?

    I would either disconnect it overnight, or I think the better choice is to pull the fuse going to the radio for a day.
  • lindeezylindeezy Posts: 6
    I have a 2002. The problem is the fuel gauge always reads full, no matter how much fuel is in the tank. It also drops to empty when the car idles for about five minutes. Does anyone have any logical explanations for this?
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,186
    Usually its the fuel sending unit, could also be wiring issue.
  • tahoebctahoebc Posts: 6
    "How long was the battery disconnected? "

    Probably a couple hours, ever try to change a battery in one of these? a royal pain in the butt. I'll try taking the fuse out over night, thanks for the suggestion.
  • jacklin30jacklin30 Posts: 13
    Thank you for your reply. Actually, a dealership finally found that a screw was missing from the dash somewhere (after my numerous complaints that something was wrong). They replaced the screw and it's been perfect ever since. The oil change place did leave the filter door open because it wouldn't shut when they put the filter in backwards. But, luckily they didn't break it. So, all is quiet in the dash at the moment. Now, if I can just get the dealer to figure out why the back tires have cupped spots in them, I'll be happy for the moment. My dad suggested it was probably due to bad shocks or something so I have to have that checked now. So far nothing major has gone wrong, but these little things keep coming up.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Bad struts can cup tires, definitely. If you have a friend that can help you, each of you drive separately to a rough road. Have him drive behind/next to you, watching your rear wheel. If after hitting a bump, the wheel bounces a couple times (or more) your struts are bad. The wheel should take the "hit" of the bump/pothole and then settle right back against the pavement smoothly.

    Other people will suggest you look at the struts for signs of oil leakage or bounce that corner of the car, but those tests are sometimes tough to interpret. (is that oil, or dirt? is this corner not bouncing because the other corner is still good? is what i'm seeing considered a "bounce" etc etc)

    The drive test is pretty clear, either the strut keeps the tire against the road like it's supposed to or not. :)
  • jacklin30jacklin30 Posts: 13
    Thank you. We will definately try this to check the struts. That way I'll have a better idea what's wrong when I take it to the dealer. It's still under warranty so hopefully it's something that will be fixed under warranty. I sure hope so.
  • topcat13topcat13 Posts: 1
    My fuel gauge goes crazy when the fuel level gets low. It begins bouncing back up to 1/2 or full tank marks, then back down to lower level indicator. Have also had side mirrors constantly adjusting, and ABS seem to grab on a couple of occasions.

    Is this common and is it BCM or sending unit on fuel tank?
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