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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    100 ft lbs is correct, that is listed in the service manual for the Rendezvous. The way I was taught is to do the star pattern, but to do it in three passes. First at 33 ft lbs, second at 66 ft lbs, and third at 100 ft lbs. If you have wheel covers with the plastic lug nuts that hold the cover to the wheel, those only get tightened to 27 INCH POUNDS (just a little over 2 ft lbs)

    When storing your torque wrench, set it at around 20-25 percent of the maxium limit. In other words, if you have a 100 ft lb wrench, set it at 20-25 ft lbs and leave the "lock" UNLOCKED in stored condition. This prevents the springs and other internal parts from going out of calibration or "setting".

    Perhaps a bit of overkill with the three passes, but I have worked on many peces of equipment in the nuclear industry, and this is the proper way to torque nuts and bolts, unless the equipment maker stated otherwise.
  • we have a 2002 rendezvous going on 5 years with nothing wrong. All of a sudden we have to every morning we have to jump start it. We have had everything checked and in the dealers shop and they can't find anything wrong with it. Maybe electrical. Thats why i was wondering when moosie stated she or he had problems with electrical if she found out what the problem was. We have shut everything off to see where the draw is coming from, bought a new battery, nothing works so we just hook it up to that thing tee,hee (don't know the name of the thing, Im a woman who doesn't know cars) but my hubby does. I'm checking online for him. I'ts very frustrating. To finish my sentence we hook it up every night so it starts in the morning but that is no guarantee what will happen when we are far from home and have to jump it. Anyone with this problem. by the way our contract just expired
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Sounds like an electrical drain as you probably already figured out. These can be tough to trace unfortunately. I would first double check every electrical device after leaving the car for the night visually: dash completely off, all interior lights are off, etc. I'm guessing you've done that... so there's gotta be a module of some kind putting a continuous drain on the battery.

    Probably something you have to take it in for unless someone here can identify a common failure point for these symptoms.
  • I had the same thing happen to me. The wind whipped it open and caused the drive side door to spring really bad. I had it reset but now there is a very noticeable wind noise coming from the door and a very large gab between the driver side front and the driver side back door. I hope to get it fixed, but I am afraid that they wont be able too. If anyone has any solutions to this that would be awesome.
  • cruzakcruzak Posts: 11
    Thank You for the advice
  • cruzakcruzak Posts: 11
    Thank You for the advice
  • I had a flat tire last night and when I went to buy a new one I was told I need to buy all four because if I didn't I could damage my car. Does that make sense?
  • cwebercweber Posts: 10
    Over X-mas my wife and I drove 12 hours to her parents and when we got there I found out that my 02 Rend used 4qts of oil. This has happend the last two trips there. So I did what and mechanic would do, I checked the plugs so sign of burning oil. I drove the vehical about 10 miles and parked in my garage and left it sit till it cooled then looked to see if any oil leaked on to the concret and there was nothing. I also checked the air cleaner to see if I was getting any blow by no evidence of any. I also checked the exhast just incase it was burning oil and some how the plugs just werent showing because it was such a small amount and as I suspected no indication in the exhaust that it was burning oil.I also checked the PCV and it was working properly. I then proceded to take it to the local chev dealer and they found nothing on there diagnostics equip to indicate that it was using oil. I am very mechanically inclined and have been servicing my own vehicals since I was 14. I am 28 now and in all the years that I have serviced vehicals never have I come across anything that I cant diagnose my self from listening or from past experiences than my current problem. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS. This is the most frusterateing problem I have ever encounterd with cars. :confuse:
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Hope we can help you... first some questions.

    1. Is the terrain the same on the whole 12 hour trip? Or is it, for example, flat the first 3 hours, then mountainous for 3 hours, then flat for 6?

    2. I assume this is the 3.4 OHV V6. How many miles? AWD?

    3. Do you REALLY mean you were down 4 whole quarts? Because the whole crankcase capacity is only 4.5? Not doubting you, just asking for clarification.

    4. Did you look at the coolant level? Normal?
  • cwebercweber Posts: 10
    Well we drive through the eastern side of ND through MN on I 94 into Wisconsin and end up just south west of Ripon WI 30 min. So its pretty much exactly how you described it. Yes its the 3.4, a little over 95k, yes AWD, and finally yes 4qt. Coolant level normal. I Know Im only 28 but I have had 14 years of experience working on vehicles and never once have I run into this. Most of what I know about vehicles I taught my self from trial and error, along with asking a local VW mechanic. I rebuilt my first engine which was a 1600 VW engine and attempted to mount it on a Go-cart lol and FAILED, but it ran like knew. sold it for 800 back the the mechanic that gave it to me. So I naturally ruled out every thing that I could except for the rear intake manifold, which I have read in my research that REND ar notorious for. So next week it will be at the dealership.
  • I recently had the head gasket done in our Rendezvous. It ran great well at least for two hours. Then the lights went out dash and all and it was like the thing went throught the whole start up process. It beeped the lights came back on the fasten seatbelt light flashed. It only happens when you have been driving for an hour or so, and only flickers off then back on. I figured they forgot to connect a ground or there was a short. They told me they needed to put in a new fuse box and it would cost around $600. Since I just gave them $2000 for the head gasket, I said no and have still been driving it. It is fine for close distances like the work commute, but after an hour it goes through the same process. If I turn the lights on instead of having them on auto they will stay on and everything else will go out and come back on. Ground or BCM??? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,186
    If I'm reading this correctly, it sounds like the problem started shortly after service for head gasket. I'm thinking it is likely they would have messed with/ wiggled underhood fuse box in the process and perhaps lossened something up in the process. I would try checking the connections to that to ensure they are tight and also perhaps re-seat all the fuses to ensure proper connection (you might want to remove negative cable to battery when you do this and re-connect after)
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    If you lost 4 qts out of 4.5 qts and finished your trip, you need to count yourself very lucky.

    The rear intake manifold is a good thought - BUT the oil has to go somewhere, period. If you crawled underneath and everything was dry, my only thought is that it could have been dripping from the rear valve cover or intake manifold, unto a hot exhaust, and burning away. BUT, again, that would create smoke and smell bad. Perhaps on the highway you wouldn't notice with the wind carrying it away but anytime you would have pulled off the highway for food or gas, you would have smelled oil burning badly at the rate you were going through.

    I guess the dealer is the next stop. I'd be a little curious to get underneath and take a look at the top side of the exhaust, see if there's any signs.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Check the fuse box connections like the other poster said. Also check the battery connections themselves. And keep your eye out for anything banged up/cracked - just in case they did it, they ought to pony up for a fix.
  • kts1kts1 Posts: 2

    I am considering to buy a 2002 RDV CXL AWD and I would like to know what you think about it. It is hard to make a decision based on the testimonials on this forum. Most of you say that you are having many problems with the cars and the dealerships, but besides that the feeling I have is that you don't regret for the choice because of the features, the comfort, etc. Is that right?

    I drove the RDV for about 20 minutes and I loved it! The mirrors are huge, but I think I can get used to it. But 20 minutes is not enough to make a decision about an investment like that. The price I got is pretty good (around $7500), one owner, I have the maintenance history and the autocheck. It has about 97000 miles on it.

    On the maintenance history there are some things that is hard to know the meaning ( I don't know anything about cars). For example:
    116 miles - NC PDI RECHECK :confuse:
    4656 miles - BODY-ELECTRICAL, BODY-ELEC. MISC1, BODY-ELEC. MISC2 and there is a message "DO NOT USE!!" :surprise:
    11208 miles - BODY-ELECTRICAL
    19387 miles - BODY-TRIM, CAMPAIGN
    26000 miles - REPLACE PCV VALVE
    36628 miles - BODY-ELECTRICAL
    41376 miles - BODY ELECTRICAL
    44964 miles - BODY-TRIM
    49105 miles - BODY-TRIM
    52422 miles - ATF FLUSH
    96584 miles - CHARGING SYSTEM

    As you can see, electrical and trim are there several times. The same with PCV valve. There are more things that I didn't describe...
    I have the last owner's phone but I couldn't find him at home yet.
    I'm sorry for typing all the details, but I really need to know if it is a good idea to buy this car and I can't afford to spend money on repairs all the time :sick: . The dealership will give me only 3000 miles / 3 months of powertrain warranty. And I have the option of paying around $1400 for an extended full warranty for 3 years/ 50000 miles.

    I would appreciate any advice from you about that.

  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    NC PDI RECHECK - No Charge, Pre Delivery Inspection, Re-Check (they just went over the car a 2nd time before the first buyer took it home)

    The "BODY-electrical" could be anything, wiring problems, BCM, etc.

    BODY-TRIM is probably a piece of molding or insulation that wasn't quite right, and the fact it was a "campaign" means probably nothing was even wrong with your particular RDV, but GM decided to update that part on all RDVs.

    Replacing a PCV valve every once in a while is normal. So is flushing the Automatic Transmission Fluid, decarbonizing the throttle body, FI treatment, brake job, etc.

    Nothing on there really scares me. I would insist the dealer do an ATF flush and a cooling system flush, they're both due around 100k miles. I hope the brakes and tires are in reasonably good shape.

    Does the $1400 warranty really cover everything for 3 yrs / 50k miles? At what deductible? That seems like a good deal, if it's full warranty and low deductible. If it's powertrain only, it's still probably worth it.

    How many miles a year do you drive, and, how long would you want to keep this car?

    Brian D.
    07 RDV CXL
  • kts1kts1 Posts: 2
    I don't know the details about the warranty yet. He didn't say anything about deductible. He said that I have to choose what I want to be covered on the warranty and that it goes from $800 up to $1400 for 3 years or 50000 miles. There is an option for 5 years / 100000 miles too but we didn't talk about it yet.

    My budget will be really tight with the car payment and full coverage insurance, so I don't want surprises. And I'm new to the US so It is kind of hard to get good rates on financing. I want to keep this car as long as I can 3 to 5 years. I don't think I will drive even 1000 miles in a month.

    I have the best references about the dealership. They are HUGE here. But sometimes cars are just bad...

    I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am and one day I drove to work and it was working great. When I was leaving 8 yours later the car simply didn't start. The mechanic said it is the timing belt tensioner. It is expensive to fix and I don't want to put more money on it. The car itself worth about $500 in a trade-in (if it is working fine).

    It is time to get a good car.
    I would feel better about this car if I hear from owners of the 2002 RDV that it is a good buy.
  • cwebercweber Posts: 10
    Im glad you have taken the time to do research before purchasing a new vehicle, very smart move. It sounds like a good buy, and I agree with bxd. The the things listed are nothing to worry about. But just in case I would take the car for another test drive and go to a local mechanic that has a good reputation and have him check it over very from top to bottom.

    If you do take the vehicle to a local mechanic and it turns out that every thing is in proper working condition and I mean every thing. For example: Rotors, diagnostic, Brakes etc.. It might cost around $150 or so to have this done but it would be worth it. I would also consider purchasing the 100k powertrain warranty if you plan on keeping the vehicle for 3 to 5 years, since it has close to 100k on it already.

    When I purchased my 02 RDV, I only took the 50k extended warranty, and after reading all the problems many people have had I wished I would have purchased the 100k.

    My RDV had 79k when I purchased it. Im at 94k and I have owned it for only 8 months, and before the year is over I will have put 20k on it. I realize that you wont be doing that much driving but, you never know whats going to happen 6 mo to a year down the road. Your curciumstances could change considerably like mine did.
  • I own a 2005 RDV CXL with the 3.6-liter DOHC engine. It is the fourth time that the engine looses power to a point that the last time i had to have it towed to the dealer. Nobody seem to be able to find the problem.. Can you help?

    Thanks :-)
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