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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info. Where can I purchase a filter for the power supply line? Local mechanics don't want to mess with the radio. As for the ground, I'd like to check that myself. How would I find the ground? Where is it attached to "ground?"
  • Hello All: Pertaining to a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS. The headlights (low and high beams) don't work. I installed new low beam bulbs (H7-55). They still won't work. I also checked all fuses and breakers. What now? Thanks.......
  • In addition to the fuses under the hood, have you checked Fuse 20 in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box? The main power for the low beams and high beams comes from the fuses under the hood and is always on, but the power used to switch the coils from from Fuse 20 inside. Here is the schematic, FYI:


    P.S. this probably should be posted under Maintenance and Repair in the Elantra section.
  • First and foremost Thank you (Pat?)for moving my question to the right forum. (MY bad) Second thank you doohickie for the very informative post. I will recheck all fuses as soon as I get home from work. Thanks again.............
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    No problem, don't worry about it - we're glad to have you as a new member! Let us know what you find. :)
  • I already checked all of the fuses that you just showed me in this diagram. The headlights will not turn on. The fuse box you are refering to is behind the ash tray on the drivers side? If so, I already checked these. I might add that there is not a dedicated fuse that mentions high or low beams. All fuses are good. What next? Thanks
  • Did you check the headlight fuses in the engine compartment?
  • Yes I did check the fuses (breakers?) in the engine compartment. I did so by changing the fuse to another position to see if that appliance continued to work. ie: I swapped the headlight fuse for the horn fuse etc. I also ran a continuity check on the wiring up to the headlight plug. All was OK. I also noticed that the high beams don't work either. BUT the parking (orange lights) work just fine. Right now this has become a day time car only. Is there a fuseable link anywhere? (I changed the two low beams two days ago) I completely removed the light assembly and checked all of those connections while on the work bench. I'm sure when this is all said and done it will be something simple. I/we just have to find it. Thanks again...
  • I guess check the whole system point by point. Are you getting 12V to the fuses? To the relays? You have to check per the schematic I posted. Sounds like maybe, just maybe, it's the switch?
  • I too thought it might be the switch. I will, as you say, have to go point by point. Yes there is 12 volts going to the fuses and relay(s). Is there a fool proof way to check the relay? Are the relays in the electrical box on the front drivers side fender? If so where can you purchase these if needed. I must say thank you again, for your undivided attention in this matter. Will keep you posted.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Cheap trick: put your finger on the relay and see if you feel a 'click' when the headlight switch is turned on. I know the relay isn't very big, but even the small ones will typically give a little click when activated.

    The relays will usually show a schematic on the side indicating which contacts are the coil. If you pull the relay you can use your voltmeter between the coil pin of the socket and ground and see if you are getting power when the switch is turned on. If you are, check the pins for the switching contacts and see if you have +12vdc there.

    Just a quick and dirty to see if the problem is on the control side (from the switch) or on the sourcing side (the contact path to the lights).

    Looking at the schematic, you may have a bad ground at G15. That should be somewhere up around the front, but if that ground is bad, both sides low and high will not work.

  • Hello jlflemmons, I will certainly give this a try. I'll let all know what I find. Thanks.........
  • Don't trust that trick. On my Escort the cooling fan relays failed. They still clicked but they didn't make contact (even though something inside was moving when power was applied to the coil). One way to check is to switch them out with another relay you know to be good (for instance, I think the horn relay is the same).

    The best way to check the relays is to get two wires with connectors on them (the females that fit standard spade connectors) and connect them from the battery to the coil, then check with a voltmeter or continuity tester to see if the switched contacts are working properly.
  • If you want to check the switch, connector M01-2 is the connector that plugs into the switch. It is pretty easy to get to; all you have do is remove the shroud on the column and back out two screws that hold the switch in place.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    That's why I said it was an easy check to see if the problem was in the control circuit. If the relay 'clicks' then you know there is power in the control circuit and you have eliminated that half of the circuit.

    I am still betting on the ground being bad at G15. That is the common point for all the symptoms listed.
  • "OK" Here's what I've come up with. The switch works. I checked it with my volt meter. When the switch is "off" it reads zero where I pulled the relay at the fuse box on the front fender (drivers side) same goes for the high beams. I get battery voltage when ever I use the switch at the steering terminal. Soooooo I guess it a ground?! If so where would be the best place to locate the G-15 ground? I found two other grounds that went from the engine block. Is the G-15 near the front radiator or so??? Thanks
  • While on the topic of headlights, how do I remove the parking light bulb in an 04 Elantra? I recently changed the headlight bulbs but was unable to change the small bulbs. Is there a trick to pulling them out?! :mad:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    G15 is located under the battery tray just outboard from the air intake tube. You will have to pull the battery and tray to see it.

    ">So, if you have had any leakage from the battery, it is possible that the ground connection is corroded, thus disabling the current path to ground and voila, no headlights.

    I have to say that putting any ground connection beneath the battery is not a great idea for the very reason mentioned above.
  • Thank you jlflemmons I will get on this right away.
  • Are you talking about the "city light" that's in the headlamp assembly, or the marker light on the side of the car?

    The best way to get to the city light is to take the whole headlamp out of the car. This removes removing three screws- 2 are obvious on top of the headlight, and there's another one lower down and at the rear of the assembly, pointing the same way as the two on top. For the right healight, you can see all three from above. For the left headlight, you have to remove the black plastic heat shield that is attached with three plastic fasterners in the front, and a bolt to the top of the air cleaner, to get to the third headlight screw in the back. It sounds complicated, but it only takes a few minutes.

    Once the screws are loose, disconnect the connector at the rear of the headlight (there is a tab on top to push to release it), and take the turn signal socket out by turning it a quarter turn up, then pulling back. Then the headlight just pulls out. Once you get the whole assembly out, you should be able to get to the city light by removing the cap that gives access to the low beam light.

    If you're talking about the marker light on the side of the bumper, I posted this earlier in the thread:
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