Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

1149150152154155169

Comments

  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Why not give Hyundai a shot at putting in a clutch. If it holds up, you have your answer, and if it doesn't, you can harass Hyundai to warranty their repair work.

    An excellent suggestion. I had a bad experience with a Honda carburetor being "rebuilt" by an independent mechanic who wasn't familiar with Honda's very odd design (a three-barrel Keihin carb that combined the worst features of a conventional carb and the worst features of an SU type) back in the early '80s. If I had gone to a dealership, I would have had more leverage when the problem recurred.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    If I had gone to a dealership, I would have had more leverage when the problem recurred.

    Or, stephen, the problem may have never recurred. :)
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Or, stephen, the problem may have never recurred

    Fair enough. In any event, the point stands. I hope bad_clutch finds a solution, but I'm done trying to help. There's no point--his mind's made up already.

    Over and out.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    I'd add that every dealer I've ever used has warranted their repairs for at least 1 year or 12K miles, so if the clutch problem is indeed recurring so often, further repairs would be covered. As an example, my wife's '01 Elantra had the rear defrost switch go, it was replaced by a dealer. 10 months later it went again and was replaced free/under warranty.
  • I'm a new member ... what a great forum! My issue is that the passenger side headlights lights, both hi and lo beam (but not the running lights) have stopped working on my '02 Elantra - the drivers side works fine. I reviewed the thread from Nov. 2007 (#2892 +/-) and have checked all fuses that seemed appropriate in both the engine compartment fuse block and the interior one under the ashtray. When checking voltage on the lo beam socket, I get a reading of 5.6v, not the 12.1v that I would have expected and I measured directly off the battery. I've yet to pursue the defective relay angle. This "one-sided" issue strikes me as really weird (tho I don't claim by any means to be an auto mechanic). Both "jlflemmons" and "doohickie" have offered some great help on similar issues (tho the link to the electrical diagram is no longer functional, at least on my computer) and I do appreciate the link to Hyundai WebTech, doohickie, should I need to use it to resolve this. Any assistance in nailing this issue down would be most appreciated.

    Jim
  • I own a '02 Hyundai Elantra with about 120,000 miles on it. I keep reading the recommendation to replace the timing belt at 60K miles? What's with that? I'm 52 and have only had one car in my life time that needed it's timing belt replaced (and I've pushed a bunch of cars to 150,000 miles and beyond.) Is there some rationale out there?? Is Hyundai known for notoriously poor timing belts that break prematurely or what? I must have been lucky so far! That's got to be a repair of $500 or more ... ouch! Jim
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    Timing belts on all cars can wear out. Some cars are returning to timing chains.

    A friend's son has an Audi and he is looking at $3800 +/- because his timing belt broke.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    Yes, you have been lucky so far. If the belt breaks, the engine is toast. So you can continue to count on Lady Luck, or get the belt replaced because if it breaks and you are looking at a repair that will cost far more than $500 (although you can probably find a shop that will do the job for less). Up to you.

    BTW, Hyundai is not the only manufacturer that recommends replacing rubber timing belts at 60k miles.
  • To restate the issue, your Hyundai clutch fails, you have it replaced and the new clutch fails soon after, and repeat. Don't feel bad you are in company with many, many others. If you do a little Googling you will find this info in several places, but here is one of them.

    http://www.velocide.com/clutch-mod.php

    Do as it says, remove the restrictor plate and through it just as far as you can. My mechanic talked to both a local import specialist and the clutch tech at the local Hyundai dealer. As soon as he said clutch problem both of then told him to do exactly this before he even asked about it. So the dealers must know of this issue but it is doubtful they would tell you about it if you did ask. They will tell you that you were hard on the clutch and then replace it, but they probably will not tell you that they completely flushed the hydraulic clutch system to remove whatever particles are in it. My mechanic surmises that whatever it was (I found a TSB from an earlier year warning about a condition that caused a restriction in the hydraulic line from grease used during assembly) worked its way to the restrictor plate where it ultimately lodged. This kept the clutch from completely engaging but not enough slippage so that the engine would rev. And this would occur every time the clutch was let out. He said that when he went to remove the plate something white and mostly round shot out and hit him in the face. Unfortunately he couldn't find whatever it was. My money is on whatever they used on the threads of the hydraulic line fittings. Also after removing the plate the clutch became much more positive and felt like a real clutch. Prior to removing the plate every time you tried taking off in 1st gear the clutch would chatter so bad that the entire car would shake. He did not even have to replace clutch #3, just removed the plate, no more chatter or shaking.

    Last but not least I will stand by my assertion of poor design. Anytime you attempt to take control of clutch engagement away from the operator it's a bad idea. If you can't shift a standard get an automatic.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    I think it all points to yor mechanic not knowing what to do on this particular model of car for this particular service work.

    He can be an excellent mechanic but still do something incorrectly when performing work on something he is not familiar with.
  • This morning one of the heating fans on the passenger side of the car starting clicking. Sounded like it was right behind the glove box. It didnt click until I was driving aobut 10 minutes. My first thought is to tear into it to see what could be wrong. Any experience on how to get to the fan or possible reasons for the clicking?

    Allan
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Could be something fell into the vents and got into the blower.
  • The lights by the heater, blower and air direction setting knobs do not work anymore. Any advise?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    If fuse is good, likely it's the light itself. In that case, hopefully the car has some of the bumper-to-bumper warranty left, or you might need to do your own minor surgery on the center console panel or pay someone else to do it.
  • Thanks, I will try the fuse first. No more warranty left.
  • Hello,
    Have you had any success here? I have an 03 Elantra and have had it in the shop 3 times. They changed timing belt preventively, changed damaged water pump and thermostat. Still no heat at idle. Once driving, very warm and up to temp. Mechanics scratching their head and don't know what else to do...
    thanks!
  • ok here it is. the tranny was stuck in 3rd and i had it looked at, i was told something was broke so i had it rebuilt. i installed it and it is shifting hard and wont down shift. anyway i was wondering if a 2000 elantra tranny would work because i found one with only 52,000 miles on it. do i need to swap the computer also? if you can help i would appreciate it.Thanx
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    Did you do the rebuild, or someone else? If someone else, did the shop that rebuilt the tranny give you any kind of warranty on their work? Usually there is some kind of guarantee, even if only 30 days (dealers typically warrant their repair work for 1 year/12k miles).

    1999 and 2000 Elantras were the same car, no changes, so the 2000 tranny should work, but you could confirm that with a call to your local Hyundai dealer's service department.

    I also found this note that might be of interest:

    Transmission problems: If transmission sticks in 3rd, shifts poorly, or has harsh 1-2 shift, the pulse generator may need to be replaced. (1996-2000)
    http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1996-to-2000-hyundai-elantra-6.htm
  • I'm about to buy a 2004 Elantra, with 62,000 miles. However, I'd like to have a mechanic inspect it first. The dealer from whom I'm buying will allow me to take it to a mechanic to have it checked out. Unfortunately, I don't know any Hyundai mechanics!

    Can anybody recommend a good shop/mechanic who could inspect the Elantra and do a good job of it to uncover any possible problems? I'm in the Los Angeles area (West Side, but will travel anywhere within LA county). If the place is open Saturday, that's a big plus! Thank you in advance!

    Also, aren't you supposed to change the timing belt on an Elantra at 60K miles? Since the car has 62K, should I have it done as soon as I buy it? Thanks!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    Most any shop that handles foreign cars should be able to do the check, also any Hyundai (or Kia?) dealer. The timing belt is supposed to be changed at 60k but I think (CA residents check me on this) in CA it's different, a longer change interval as in 105k miles?? However, you will want to verify that the 60k service was done as it's expensive even w/o the timing belt--can be a negotiating point if not done.
Sign In or Register to comment.