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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,218
    I agree on doing the water pump at the same time., but I'd do it at the first timing belt change north of 100K miles. Water pumps should be good for 140K miles +/-.
  • jayessjayess Posts: 59
    edited December 2010
    Giving him the opening to pick my pocket, I did ask if that's something they do recommend for exactly that reason it just being parts since everything is open. The service advisor said that they typically don't unless since theyusually don't see much of a problem with the water pumps. Of course he could be setting himself up for a bigger payday down the road, but given the mileage on that I'll probably just roll the dice - or buy the extended warranty!
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,579
    Since I usually keep my cars between 7 to 8 years, I'd just have it done in this situation...I don't like surprises and need my car to work, period. Come next month when I retire, I'll probably keep the same opinion...I like my rides properly maintained. And since my total mileage will probably be cut about 66%, my current Civic will be with me well into the next decade, G-d willing. Plan to keep my $ growing in the retirement accounts, thank you very much. This could actually be my last car if my spinal issues get much worse, which makes it that much more important to keep everything running tip top.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • jayessjayess Posts: 59
    You have a valid point since the plan is to keep it in the stable for some time to come. Of course I can also purchase the Hyundai extended warranty from my dealer which covers the pump and darn near everything else. Originally they wanted 1499$, for Platinum - when I asked how much just for powertrain, which would make it as though we were the original owner, said 1349$ and then 'tell you what, we'll give you Platinum for that price' so now I have about 4.5 weks to mull it over, that's when the original 5/60 expires. Decisions decisions
  • kjcolekjcole Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 elantra with 90000 miles on it. I have been having an issue with the transmission slipping between 3rd and 4th gear. It doesn't happen all the time. I had the problem once before at 52000 miles and took it to the dealer. They told me that the transmission needed serviced. I had bought the car with 40000 on it and it had a 12000 mile bumper to bumper warranty on it and I was just outside of it. I argued with them that it should've been serviced before I had bought the car and shouldn't need a service after just over 12000 miles on it so they serviced it for free. That seemed to fix the problem. I know that hyundai recommends changing the fluid every 30000 miles. I have had the fluid changed here recently and I am still having the problem. It's not everyday and it has only happened twice since I've had the fluid changed. My question is should I go ahead and change the filter. It is a pain in the butt to get to and it looks like it has never been changed. I already have the filter because I thought it was going to be like a normal car and have the transmission pan on the bottom of the transmission not the side and almost impossible to get to. Thank you for your help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    You might want to check with a reliable Hyundai service department because even though the aftermarket parts houses show (and sell) a filter for the 2005 Elantra 4spd, my 2005 GT didn't have a filter. That's why you change the fluid every 30K; no filter.
  • itc55itc55 Posts: 3
    Just picked up my 2011 GLS last week. I was completely happy with it until I discovered that the carpeting in the back (where the flooring rolls up to meet the back seat) is very poorly fitted. The carpeting bulges out across the entire length of the seat to the point that it even wrinkles slightly -- it's not adhered to the seat or floor surface at all. If I push against the carpeting, it seems to have a full inch of air between it and the bottom of the seat structure. I can press it back so that it hugs the floor and the seat, but then it just pops back out when I release it.

    Anyway, I took it to the service center today and they insist that all 2011 Elantras are like this. "It's a solid fitted piece that we can't really do anything about."

    Everything else in the car is so tight that this really bothers. Of course, the dealer is sold out of the 2011 and I can't personally verify that "all Elantras are made this way" since there are none on the lot. Any other owners out there notice this? Is this really a universal problem?
  • I don't have a 2011, but this seems like the dealer just threw whatever he had in there. I could be wrong though...definitely check out another 2011 at another dealership if possible.
  • itc55itc55 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply perno.

    Just to be clear for anybody else that comes across this -- I'm not talking about the floor mats. It's the actual carpet upholstery that is bulging up. Where the carpeting meets the back seat -- it looks like a kid who's wearing his dad's suit. Just doesn't fit right.

    Looks like a manufacturing error to me. But, dealer says it's "normal."
  • This post might better have been in the 2012 Elantra section. They never changed the heading to 2011 when it became apparent that the new Elantra was coming out as a 2011. Anyway - your problem appears to be evidence of shoddy assembly as has been evidenced in the 2011 Sonata board reports as rattles and squeaks. I plan on buying in the spring and this sort of thing gives me pause. Come on Alabama - do better and make us all proud of made in the USA.
  • itc55itc55 Posts: 3
    Thanks -- I'll check out the 2012 forum. I was wondering why there was a place for 2012 and not 2011. Now I know...
  • Hmmmm.......

    I will have to look at mine to see if it has the same issue when I return from vacation!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,632
    I can assure you that this rear carpet problem is NOT common to all 2011 Elantras. I know because today I gave a 2011 Elantra on the showfloor of my local dealer a good going-over, and specifically checked the fit of the rear carpet. It looked fine, i.e. fitted to the floor, and tucked neatly under the rear seat cushion.

    If I were you I'd go back to the dealer, and ask the service manager to accompany you as you both inspect a few 2011 Elantras on their lot (once they get some in), and compare the rear carpet to your car's. And tell the service manager you want your carpet fixed/replaced under warranty. If they won't do it, tell the service manager you want to talk with the Hyundai district customer service manager (or whatever they are called).

    You could also try a different dealer... one that is more interested in satisfying its customers.
  • Seems like you are living my life...;-) Except that I went a couple steps further. I did replace the tranny since I purchased the car (@93K miles) for a reasonable price. The tran went at about 100K, but what got my goat was the fact that it went AGAIN in less than 40K miles. Unfortunately, I was outside of the tranny shops warranty. Anyway the engine also blew around 129K and I replaced that (just before the tranny went south the second time). At this point, I am a little weary and not considering I got such a good deal after having spent approximately 3 times the original cost of the car over the past three years of use. I have heard that the 1997 model was a turning point for Hyundai...just wish I would have known that ahead of time. I'm actually selling the car to a mechanic this afternoon for basically the cost of one of my many repair bills...I'm feeling lucky!
  • If both my fog lights are out on my 2008 hyundai elantra (72,000 Miles) then is that the fuse or the bulbs ?
  • bob441bob441 Posts: 1
    I needed a new wheel bearing. Mechanic replaced hub and bearing. When I pointed out that the two screws on the front of hub did not match up was told that wouldn't hurt anything. The next day I contacted a mechanic at dealer and was told the wrong part was used. He would not say if not having two front screws was ok or not.
    The car is driving good now. I was hearing a very bad grinding noise.
    Do you think there could be any problems without the two screws?
  • mike_s2mike_s2 Posts: 1
    Can anyone give me a basic idea on how to replace the radiator in my Elantra? I do have average to maybe a little above repair experience but do not want to get in over my head.

    Drain the engine coolant.

    Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) cooler hoses.

    Disconnect the fan motor connector
    Separate the air conditioner condenser with radiator.
    Remove the heat shield.
    Remove the battery and battery tray.

    Remove the air duct and make the task space.
    Remove the reservoir tank and make the task space. (10 mm bolts)

    Remove the radiator upper bracket (10mm bolts) then pull up the radiator.
    Remove the cooling fan from the radiator.


    Install the cooling fan to the radiator.
    Install the radiator at the air conditioner condenser. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
    Connect the fan motor connector.
    Install the upper and lower radiator hoses, and ATF cooler hoses.
    Fill with engine coolant.
    Start engine and check for leaks.
  • I had a Nissan Sentra for fourteen years and 160,000 miles with very few real problems. But eight years ago I puchased a two-year old 2001 Elantra. I swear to you that the minute that car hit 100,000 miles everything major that could go wrong with it, did go wrong. For example,this summer I had to have the air conditioner fixed because of a major leak; cost: $990. Two weeks after that, my electric windows would periodically fail to raise or lower. The problem is still not fixed but the mechanics just figured out that the wires are corroded between the door panels and body of the car; the kits to replace them, before labor, will cost $1320.

    I won't even go into all the other costs of just routine maintenance, which are also very high (ok, belts replaced: $750.)

    I am warning you that Hyundai's, in my opinion, are financial disasters waiting to happen. I am a private school teacher, and the huge costs to me are taking major hit on my savings.

    Put simply: I will never buy a Hyundai again, and I advise anyone here not to do so either.
  • You're barking up the wrong tree, people that read this already own Hyundais for the most part. Also, I have a 2002 Elantra that has had minimal problems and has 150,000 miles on it. I'm about to get my second timing belt on it and it will cost me around $450. You have to shop around for those kinds of things otherwise people will charge you $750.

    I'll probably always buy Hyundais, to each their own.
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