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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • I have an 02 Elantra 5 speed with 6000 miles. It is the same problem as post 474. Where you lift off the accelerator between shifts and it takes a few seconds for the rpm's to drop off. It almost impossible to shift smoothly without pausing along time between shifts. I believe if you're not careful this could lead to early clutch wear. I'll be going to the dealer soon for this. Has anyone had a similar problem solved by their dealer? Thanks
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,621
    Bring it to the attention of your dealer when you go in, they can look it up if they don't already know about it. My '01 had this problem but it corrected itself after a few weeks (?!).
  • I am new to this site, my reasoning for writing this message is because I have seen a few postings for wind noise (sounds like you are blowing on the top of a beer bottle. I have an '03 Elantra GT 5-dr Hatchback. The noise at first happened when you were doing 80mph and above. Recently it will do it at 60mph. I know what the problem is, the black seal that runs along the top of the car on both sides has a almost like concave in it. The wind when blowing the right way will hit that and make that noise. My friend complained to the Hyundai Dealer here in The Mojave desert of California and they said that you can run a bead of caulk in there and that will take care of that noise, but they could not do it for you, even though they know that will solve the problem. My car has 3500 miles only and I am going to take it in for this because it gets so loud sometimes that the radio can't even drown it out.
        Any ideas on what I should tell them if they tell me that they can't run the caulk, I have too.PLEASE HELP.
    I love my car and would not get rid of it because of this.
  • Cross-posting to the Elantra GT board as well

    I just ticked 3,000 miles on my 03 GT this last weekend (actually hit 3,050) and it's time to at least do an oil change, I need to check the owner's manual to see if it's a recommended dealer stop.

    My big question is I recall in one of my slogs through the longer Hyundai boards, there was some sort of problem with the oil plug/threads when doing oil changes? I usually just use Jiffy Lube, since I have to spend less time, both in general and in fending off additional charges, but is this a concern? I don't really want to have to schedule a bloody oil change with a Jiffy Lube right around the corner from me here at work, but if it's a significant risk I'll go to the dealer and slap them until I get a reasonable charge.


  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Hyundai, like many other manufacturers, warns not to over tighten the drain plug in the oil pan. When doing an oil change, many of the gorillas in the oil change pits are not aware that the oil is not under pressure in the pan, and only enough torque is needed to keep the drain from dripping, which is not all that tight when a fresh gasket is used. Personally, I go with snug, probably 15ftlbs, and have never stripped a pan or had a leak. Just make sure that whoever does the oil change doesn't go for the "tighter is better" theory and you should do just fine.

  • dustbaildustbail Posts: 34
    Just wanted to say that the Fumoto Valve is a great investment. Whether you change your own oil or the local Jiffy Lube, it will save you time and money.(didn’t mean to sound like a advertisement, just really impressed with the product)
  • pewtermanpewterman Posts: 17
    Hi, fellow owners!

    I haven't been here for awhile, but am happy to report that my '01 Elantra is still humming along well at over 30,000 miles. But, it's time for the tranny fluid and filter change and I need some advice.

    I took it to my local garage to avoid the $400 30,000 mile service "special" at my dealership. I first found out that the filter (yes, I know know that not all '01's have them)is a dealer ONLY part ($26!). While picking up the filter, the parts man warned me about the type of ATF fluid I buy.

    So, the service has not yet been performed and I'm now concerned about where to take it and what to buy. The owner's manual specifically states that the warranty will be voided by the wrong fluid (of course!). But I find it hard to believe that I may have to go to the dealer and pay $5-$10 a quart for fluid. Can I not purchase Quaker State, etc.? I'm not exactly a dummy about this stuff but would really appreciate some input from you folks. Thanks in advance!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,621
    If it were me, I'd spring for the OEM fluid. Call it "no-hassle insurance." It will cost a few bucks extra every 30,000 miles, but consider what would happen if you use some other ATF, have a transmission problem, and Hyundai doesn't honor your warranty claim because of the type of ATF you used. Then you have a big hassle on your hands, at best, and a big repair bill at worst. But it's your money.
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    I've had my 02 Elantra with automatic & Package 5 for about 6 months, and I've driven it about 6500 miles as well. So far, so good, but I do have a few small issues with the car. First, the brakes tend to make a "thoomp" noise as I let go of the brake pedal when slowing down to 5 mph or so in parking lots for speed bumps, but not when I come to a complete stop at stop signs/stop lights. This really only happens when the temperature is between 30 and 60 degrees and the air is moist (or the brakes are wet for whatever reason). Also, the gas pedal gets slightly stiff here and there when I get the car to 70 on the highway. Finally, there are a few minor fit & finish/squeak & rattle issues, mainly with a small piece of the door trim starting to come loose on both front doors in the same exact spot, and also with a slight creak in the passenger front door that I can solve by just pulling it shut a little bit more. Otherwise, the car is doing fairly well. I guess fuel economy in the city isn't as advertised, but considering what sort of stop & go traffic I face each day, 16-18 mpg in the city isn't that bad. I'll try to get my other issues looked at during my next oil change. I was told some brake noise is normal, but the occasional thoomp is starting to get annoying. I suppose I should go drive to a Hyundai dealership right now and "thoomp" my way through the parking lot and see what sort of reaction the customers and salespeople get. I suppose I'll get that fixed really fast then :) (Although I did test another Elantra for comparison, and there was some thoomping too... but is that really supposed to be normal? Same with the gas pedal as well.) Thanks for any input any of you can provide.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,621
    My '01 GLS does not have and never has had a brake "thoomp" or any other noise except very occasionally a squeak on the first braking on a damp day. No stickiness on the accelerator either. You should get those checked out. Which door trim is coming loose? Lots of owners seem to run into the squeak on the passenger front door, which they've reportedly fixed by tightening the screws holding the plastic door panel (and some more industrious people have added rubber washers). I have been too busy/lazy to fix it yet, as it doesn't show up except on a cold day. 16-18 mpg in the city seems pretty low unless it's all stop-n-go driving in cold weather.
  • pewtermanpewterman Posts: 17
    Thanks, Backy!

    After further consideration that's exactly what I'm doing. I went on the NHTSA site the other day to check up on their TSBs for the Elantra. One I came across, regarding the ATF drain plug (placement) strongly advised the use of Hyundai fluids to avoid eratic shifting. I did, however, change my own antifreeze, so keep your fingers crossed for me!! Thanks again for the advice.
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Posts: 81
    Hyundai, per TSB 02-20-008, has changed the oil drain plug from a 12mm reach to a 17mm reach (PN #21512-23000), in order to prevent pan thread stripping when over-torqued. This applies to all Elantras manufactured after 1 April, 2001.

    That being said, I suggest you order a Fumoto oil drain valve (PN #F106) for $22.95 plus $3 s&h.

    I received mine about 4 days after placing the order.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    I've had the sticking throttle pedal on my 01 GT. I complained to the service dept a couple of times. The first time they lubed the cable. Seemed to free it up some but sticking came back. The second visit service loosened the cable and repositioned it. Now it feels normal. Tell service about your sticking pedal.
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    5port, I'm glad it wasn't just me. The issue doesn't occur until I'm going 65-70, though, and even then it doesn't bother me THAT much. However, I'll see what the dealership can do when I go in on Wednesday to get my slightly "thoompy" brakes looked at.

    I'm still very happy with the car, even with a few minor issues. I even had Hyundai send me a survey asking me about the quality of my car, and they asked me quote a few specific questions about items that have been noted in these forums. So, Hyundai knows about some of these issues, and I know they have done a LOT to fix them too and make sure to ask people about them. No wonder why Consumer Reports said in the auto issue I got today that "Hyundai was also among the best 2002 brands - a striking turnaround from its poor showing 10 years ago." With my old Grand Am, I don't remember GM ever asking me specific things about my car. So, although I don't have a perfect Hyundai, I am willing to put up with a few quirks while they perfect their quality and get up there to Japanese levels :)
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,621
    >>> So, although I don't have a perfect Hyundai, I am willing to put up with a few quirks while they perfect their quality and get up there to Japanese levels <<<

    Take a look at recent posts in the Hyundai Elantra board. Based on CR's annual survey, it appears that Hyundai has caught up with Honda and is just a little behind Toyota for defects in 2002 models. An amazing turnaround.
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    The dealership basically just did a brake inspection, and in the process they must have made some sort of adjustment (as the brakes seem better now). I also noticed that driving on the highway for a while might "dry out" any moisture that could be causing some of that "thoomph" noise I was getting. As for my gas pedal, the dealership tried to adjust it, and it does feel a little bit less tensiony. (They said they'll replace the cable if I feel it's not that much better -- we'll give it some time first.)

    The trim that is coming loose is on each front door in a very small area around the lower back corner where the black trim meets the window. I noticed another Elantra in the parking lot at work today that had the same issue. The dealership said they could stick another piece of trim on, but that this particular piece of trim is a bit tricky to replace (and that the replacement piece could end up doing worse in the long run -- witness the bubbling effect that show up on various cars that have aftermarket tinted windows installed, for example). So, I said that as long as it wasn't going to come off any more, then I'll just live with it for now. I guess I can post pictures of this on here if necessary, as it's kind of hard to explain just what exactly is happening with this.

    Like I said before, these are just some minor issues -- I would still recommend the Elantra to my friends and family.
  • servo_fanservo_fan Posts: 15
    (Cross posted on the GT board too)
    My wife was driving our automatic transmission '02 GT yesterday and she told me that immediately after getting gas at a station we've used in the Hyundai before, (and paying the highest average price in the country here in California, but that's another story ;-)), while she was in the middle of a u-turn, the car just lost power (both momentum and electrical, apparently the power steering went out too). She had to coast through the u-turn and pull over. When she went to put the car in Park, she said it made a grinding noise. She said she was fully stopped at that point. Then she shut the car off for about 30 seconds, restarted it and everything was fine. Any ideas? Would bad gas cause such a problem so quickly after fill up? If so, should we expect this problem for the duration of the tank?
  • renfrow1renfrow1 Posts: 7
    I'm beginning to think the same thing...Sorry for getting in on this so late in the discussions, and I've briefly commented about it in another section here, but I have to vent, I'm so happy to have finally found some other owners sharing stories here!!! :)

    My GT is only two months old, and yes just as it hit 800 miles two days ago, I started to have the trouble shifting from 2nd into 3rd gear, and my car now begins to pull to the left slightly as I'm driving below 45 mph, and pulls to the right from take-off...I'm beginning to think I got me a lemon as well...Luckily for me I haven't started to have anything else go wrong, no engine noises other than the rough rpm's staying way up...I wonder why they do that???

    I'm heading into the dealership tomorrow morning to see what they say...I don't want them to get into fixing it, I just want to guage them a bit and see if they tell me they've had similar complaints...My salesman is also a friend of mine outside of the job I've known for a couple years, so he wouldn't lie to me I know that much...If there are apparent problems with the GT's, I'm trading mine in at 6 months, and getting something else and just swallowing the loss in my wallet...I can't drive a car like this, I don't feel safe in it...

  • renfrow1renfrow1 Posts: 7
    I took my GT in to the dealership, and they told me they indeed got the same complaints about the pulling to one direction while driving at that mileage...Their solution was to correct the tire P.S.I. inflation to be 35 P.S.I....I was told by the dealership mechanic that at speeds over 45 in the GT, with low tire pressure, the car will drift as it is grabbing more of the road in the power wheel causing the pull...

    He then told me that the tires inflate 4lbs more when they get hot, so if you got em at 40 plus lbs when cold, they go to the max of 44 P.S.I. and will also cause a drift as they are now overinflated...Basically keeping them at 35 allows the tire to expand as it wants to without effecting the drive...

    I did this and my GT drives like it did when I drove it off the lot two months ago...Oh and I also confirmed that the GT's love to be driven above 4000 rpm when shifting during the breakin period...You'll get better shifting, smooth transition into gears, and maximum horsepower...

  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    On the GT or the GLS, recommended tire pressure is 30 psi cold. Check the label in the driver door. After 28K miles and nearly 21 months, there has never been pulling or any other directional trouble with my Elantra. I don't recall any other similar reports in these threads.
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